MadAnt

These are 12mm hexes in the rear and the front use 850 or 5x8x2.5 bearings with a non flared lock nut. https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-scorpion-2.2-front-wheel-white-2-kyosch005w/p1276404?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22597976848&gbraid=0AAAAAD_WU4BPEcEPdzwPj5hylQ2xXBDlX&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Nbbl7jGjQMVngKtBh26qwTGEAQYASABEgImxvD_BwE https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-scorpion-2.2-rear-wheel-white-2-kyosch006w/p503818

Kyosho Scorpion/Turbo Scorpion 2.2 wheels will fit.

I have a couple with names. One is the Bigfoot Dagger, Wild Bigfoot Dagger, or Wild Bigfoot 8 Dagger, or whatever I feel like calling it sometimes, but mostly Bigfoot Dagger. The other one is a crawler called Spare Parts. It's an OG Axial AX10 built with spares and extras, unwanted and donated parts. It has wraith axles built from used other axles and spares, and everything is miss matched just to bother people's OCD.

As a collector of junk, I have never been competitive. Sure I have entered a couple of crawler comps, but it was the little scale adventure, the driving challenges and meeting people with the same interests that I enjoyed. Sure winning would be cool, but I didn't care, I just wanted to drive my tiny truck. Racing sparks my interest sometimes, but the cost of even doing ok is the reason why I don't race. I'd rather be building something, which is when I'm in the zone. I do a lot of thinking and sometimes while in my zone, I have visions of how I can put some junk together to make something cool. It can be strange sometimes, because there are times I forgot that I possessed the skills to do certain things. It's like some of my creative abilities are like second nature when my mind is in that zone mindset. It's very rewarding for me, especially after having success with the finished product.

Thank you. I have double sided foam tape holding the grill in place.

I did five for a bit, it actually worked pretty well for on road conditions.

A Wild One looks like fun. Or... Why not go with something bigger and customize a GF-02 or a Clodbuster?

I will admit, I'm a bit of a fan of monster trucks(just not the new stuff). So of course I know of Bigfoot and the historical significance of some of the Bigfoot trucks that Bob Chandler has created. Bigfoot #4 is definitely one of those historically significant monster trucks, being one of the first stage 2 trucks and being extremely competitive in racing during the late 80's. Those trucks back then were primitive compared to what exists today, but I find watching those old bouncy monsters racing each other more entertaining than the modern stuff. I'm sure plenty of you reading feel the same way. I'm also sure some of you are Clodbuster owners who want to make your RC trucks look like one of these legendary monsters from back then. JConcepts has been hard at work over the years to feed our interest in monster trucks and one of the lexan bodies they make is the 1990 Bigfoot #4 that they dubbed with "Louisville" at the end of the name for it's appearance with some new modifications and performance during figure 8 racing in Louisville with Andy Brass behind the wheel. Anyway, to get to the point, I bought one of these bodies after looking at it on the website for too long and I have to say, it's good bang for the buck. The body comes with all sorts of cosmetic add-ons to make your RC Bigfoot look as detailed as possible. Bumper sets, hood accessories, decals, a moulded chrome grill, faux light buckets, light bucket covers, rubber flags and role cage support for the racer back and light buckets. If you bought all these items separately it would cost more than this entire kit. Yes I'm calling it a kit, there is quite a bit of work and assembly that has to be done to achieve the such a beautiful product at the end. This is not just a simple spray job, but trust me, it's worth it. On to building this kit. To start I do a rough cut to get a general idea of how everything will fit and make needed changes from there. One thing I see is that the body needs to sit lower on the clod chassis for the correct stance and my liking. It was apparent that the bumper mounting perches were in the way, so rather than cutting them off, I notchted the front of the body under where the bumper gets mounted to the lexan and used short universal posts in the front. After I got the holes drilled, fitment good and everything lined up good, I start making my final cuts. For a better look closer to the real thing, I cut extra material off of the wheel arches, lower rockers and lower sides, which took more time to do, but was worth it in my opinion. After all that was done, I needed to decide if I was going to use the chrome grill insert, or take the easy way and use a grill decal. The marked out lines for the grill are lower than they should be and the hole would need to be slightly tappered with curved corners at the bottom, which would not be easy to do without power tools. I decided to take hard way and also correct the height of the grill. I used no power tools, just a reamer, lexan scissors, a knife and a sanding file. Lots of sanding was done just to get the shape, fit and finish right, it's the little details like these that can make a big difference. After all that, it was time for a cleaning, applying the window masks and a wipe down with alcohol. Now to paint, and thanks to @MetalMilitia I used two cans of Tamiya PS-16 metallic blue for the base coat and PS-5 black for the back coat. To get good coverage you will need 7-8 light coats of PS-16 and a back coat is a must because the metallic blue is transparent. I laid the black cover a little bit heavier with two coats, which got good coverage. Painting was the easiest part of the project since just one base color and back coat color is needed. For bit of extra detail I sprayed the bed with PS-5 black on the outside and got a semi gloss finish. Once the paint was dry it was time to assemble the body again and apply the decals. This body set comes with two sheets of decals, one for the normal 87-91 Ford F-series and the other for Bigfoot, so using a combo of both sheets is necessary. The decals from JConcepts are easier to peel than what I'm use to and can be peeled off if it needs to be corrected after being lightly applied, which I like. One thing I did not like was how the decals were sticking to the pink rubber light covers, they just did not stick right and can still be moved around. Anyway, once the decals were applied to the body shell and the flag was in its post, it was looking like the real thing. With Bigfoot #4 now mounted on top my Clodbuster, I took a good look at the finished product. And wow! This thing looks awesome, it is almost too nice to run. Looking so good, I had to take some photos while the day was nice. I am very pleased with the results and this is definitely something that looks better in person. Taking my time cutting, sanding and measuring has definitely paid off. I know some people like to do rush jobs on lexan bodies, you can't do that on this one and achieve a better product. Also, some info to add, the normal retail price as of writing is $60 USD, but has been cut down to $51 USD for a good while now and the only extras you need to buy unless you need tools, is three cans of paint.

Thanks! Yes it's a clod, some trickery had to be done to get the fitment right and getting the body together was one of the most labor intensive lexan bodies to assemble, but it was so worth it. Also, that chrome grill is a separate piece. I was debating if I should use a grill decal or cut the hole for the grill insert which. I chose the hard the way, lol. No power tools were used. The shape is not a perfect square and needs to have small curved edges at the bottom. I'll probably start a thread for the assembly of JConcepts Bigfoot #4 Louisville body and go over everything that I've done.

Bigfoot #4 is painted, assembled and stickered up.

They will fit 2.2 buggy wheels if you want them too, but they will sure put up a fight.

I cannot label a single RC component as my favorite. For me it's the sum of the parts put together that make up the product that I enjoy. Sometimes it's for looks, sometimes it's for functionality and most of the time it's both. Then there is the tweaking and tuning process that I enjoy. I don't just throw parts at something and hope it will perform better all the time. I like trying to optimize the stock stuff, it teaches you a lot and saves money. I guess if I can call it a component, then I'd say it's the journey taken to achieve the very satisfying product at the end. Two of my recent examples are my Hornet EVO and my Wild Bigfoot 8 Dagger WR-01, which have been dialed in to my satisfaction.

Last night I finished trimming and mocking up my new JConcepts Bigfoot #4 body, well... almost. I Still need to cut the hole for the grill insert. I might do a build thread covering the process of putting this body together. For the price it seems to be good bang for the buck.

I just got mine and rough cut for fitting, I had to cut notches under where the bumper mounts to the body so it would clear the front bumper mounts on the chassis. It fits good now and with the stance I wanted. Also, I will probably do the same thing you did for painting the bed, I like the flat black cover look. Anyway, looking forward to your next update on this cool build.

This truck is starting to look pretty sweet, but I don't want to completely show it off yet until I get the decals. I can still use another body and wheels in the meantime, just to tease everyone. I keep forgetting to order shocks for it, but I do think the traxxas long shocks that I have will work fine in the rear, so those may stay for a long time. Compared to my twin motor trucks, this one is pretty lightweight, so I'm interested in seeing how well I can get it to handle with some tuning. Stay tuned, I'll give an update after another test drive.

Yes, they break when not in use as well. Tamiya must have gotten the formula wrong for the plastics, because they are extremely brittle. Even people who had experience with them back then found the cars to be very fragile. Also, the bodies are blow molded instead of vacuum molded. The production quality was not great back then, so the bodies would have thin spots in a few areas which would cause the body to crack and crumble apart. Aftermarket part options are limited, Team Blue Groove makes replica lexan bodies and MCI produces replica decals as well and some chassis and suspension parts too. 3D printing parts your self is an option as you are aware, I believe Ampro sells some files so you 3D print your own parts too.

Back when my first grasshopper was in its monster buggy phase, it had blackfoot wheels with tall Imex Swamp Dawgs. To help it move around with those big tires I installed a Venom 540 17Tx2 Fireball motor, which was back when they had green labels. With just a stock 18 tooth Hornet sized pinion gear, it actually had some wheels spin off the line at full throttle. That thing had too much speed, I eventually converted it back to a normal-ish buggy. Yeah I can see why Lunchbox/Midnight Pumpkin is pretty attractive. Who doesn't like wheelies? Someday I'll own one.

Did some painting for the Blackfoot Xtreme project, then took out and ran the Wild Bigfoot Dagger while paint was drying. I'm glad I built that truck, it just looks so cool driving around and rides like a Cadillac over rough terrain(rough terrain not shown in photos).

Welcome!

Good news! The weather was nice and I has some free time, so I did a little bit of painting. The body is a 90's ford F-series from JConcepts, it's the same style truck as the Blackfoot Xtreme body, but longer and with larger wheel arches. I also had time to paint the new wheels, which are now bright red. I'll take pictures of the painted parts and stuff once they are mounted on the truck. In the meantime while everything was drying I took the WR-01 Bigfoot 8 dagger out for a rip.

Very cool! I need to get me a 3D printer.

Thank you. I'm sorry for your unwell condition, since you were gone for so long, I figured something was going on. I hope you are ok and getting better.

I've had a few paint jobs come out with some issues. It was a good thing some of these body were used for bashing, but some of the painting issues could have been avoided if I had used better masking tape. I always seem to run into issues when I don't use Tamiya masking tape, so now I just use the other brands for large filler. Actually the green frog tape is good for filler and easy to remove. I think my last pant mess up was when I painted my Pajero. I used some old Testers Model Master paint that came out of the can like cheese, so I had that cheap orange peel paint job look. I could have just wet sanded it to reduce the orange peel, but I just decided to put lots of clear on it and keep it that way. At least the Pajero looks fine from ten feet away.

Grasshopper with Lunchbox wheels, tires, metal knuckles and gear reduction.

Oof! I've never had that problem with my tribute wheels and I have them on both of my Clods. Also I have the wheels clamped on pretty good with serrated wheel nuts, so they don't back off and let the wheel go loose. I highly recommend serrated lock nuts for the wheels, the standard regular lock nuts dont hold for long on these trucks and can lead to issues like what you have when the wheels loosen just a little.