MadAnt

A lot of those old tamiya promo videos showed almost all the action in slow motion too.

I don't use a mat, I don't even use a car stand. I just use a dry erase board and a few chalkboard panals.

I'm sure Talbot may be a nice person IRL, but I can't sit through most of his content, he's just too loud and ADD like. I prefer the more mellow youtubers, I even enjoy content from DJmedic2008 which is a good few crazy levels down from the ADD insanity Kev and the other shouting content creators put out.

I did not realize that it was discontinued, it had been years since I bought mine. I guess if you can get the bits to mount it, a sway bar can be custom made to fit.

I do like my M06 Beetle (longer wheelbase), it took a little bit of figuring out for a parking lot runner, but it was easy. The first thing that should be upgraded if not already done is the tires. The fronts are usually like a medium compound on a stock configuration, they suck for this application and scrub too much, I recommend S Grip front and rear. For the shocks or dampers I run mini CVA's in the rear and Super mini CVA's at the front with bump stops. The parking lots here are rough sometimes and it's not fun when the chassis smacks the ground. The springs are standard from the factory, gold at the rear and chrome in the front. For weight distribution I have the battery almost all the way forward, just one position back or forward, so the middle I guess. BTW, I'm using a standard size LiPO pack. To help keep the front wheels on the ground when cornering hard I have a rear sway bar, it's the silver one which is stiffer if I remember. Also, yes, controlling the body roll in the rear helps with cornering traction in the front. If you plan on driving the cars a lot, it's a good idea to get multiple tire sets. Tires will wear fast unless you are just parading around. There are even stickier compounds if you want to go that route, I have a set off HPI slicks that get real sticky and grip really good when hot.

On my shopping list is a reproduction body and decals for a waiting restoration project. I also have four or five RC's lined up for my selling list. Also, I may have bought another project, so I should get cracking on that selling list.

I'm planning on selling a few, I have some cars that I really don't do anything with or have the desire to put up with. Plus, I need more room for new more exciting projects.

I'm up to um... I have to keep track of everything on a spreadsheet. To answer your question, Tamiya made some really good bashers years ago, but those were nitro powered, which is still cool. Technically any offroader could be a basher, but not all will be good at it. If I were to pick a few based on my experience, I'd say with some modifications the Clodbuster, the TL01 platform and the WR/WT01 platform, just don't try to jump houses with them.

An excuse to build a King Blackfoot? The coating on the screws are the correct color too. Also, just to share my opinion, I think Tamiya should do a re-re King Blackfoot.

Years ago I bought myself a new CC-01(Formally known as the XC) Ford Bronco kit. At the time, the crawling scene just started to gain huge popularity with Axial being the most popular brand in that category. Over the years I have made some small but effective upgrades and modifications to the little CC-01 Bronco and with some driving technique it could keep up with those small tire Axial SCX10's. I sure did have a lot of fun with the little trail truck and after being parked on the shelf for a few years, I think it's time to give it some attention again. The last I remember about the little CC01 Bronco is that everything was in 100% working order, but I figured while it's on the messy healing table, I should check and take care of a few things. The winch had not been operated in a long time, that was the first thing I wanted to check, but I feel it's time to upgrade and simplify the setup. Controling the winch is a Losi ESC from a mini LST, which has its power coming from a separate 7.2 battery mounted in the front. This odd setup allowed me to add more weight to the front end while also providing the winch with the full battery voltage. So this tiny winch had some good power. Unfortunately the Duratrax 1600mah Nimh battery would no longer take a charge. I tried cycling the battery, but it seemed to just get worse, this battery was done. While I was waiting for my old winch battery cycling on the charger, I thought it would be a time to inspect the drivetrain. Popped the transmission cover off and noticed that the spur gear teeth were black, however the pinion gear looked fine. A little bit of cleaning and it should be fine and while I have it apart, I'll get rid of the plastic bushings and replace them with ball bearings. In the picture above, you can see how to lock a front differential on a CC01 by placing a bevel gear between the other two bevel gears. This method has been done by many people and is a good effective alternative to gluing the gears. I've been running this locked diff for years without any issues and I'll leave it locked for the type of driving I have planned. With the truck back together, I thought it would be fun to take it while the sun light was going away that day. No problem I thought, because I have working lights. Well... nope, it was my luck that the TLU-01 light controller would malfunction and send 9.8 volts to all the LED bulbs, killing all of them. I don't know how this happened, but I'll investigate it later. At least I got a few minutes of messing around outside with the CC01, I broke the styrene slider that I made, but I have some ideas brewing now. I'm thinking of getting the CC01 Bronco good enough for class 1 competition crawling. It's not too hard to do really, I think I just need a half interior and a rear bumper, plus fixing the broken stuff. Meh, I'll fix the broken stuff first and see where to go afterwards. Ok, right now on the to do list is: Order and wire up a new winch controller. Fix the broken lights. Order a rear axle housing, because mine has a crack. Make new side sliders and front skid plate.

This is a bit hard for me to decide which is my favorite to drive, but I'll pick a few. My Bigfoot Dagger WR-01. I built it from mostly new, some reused and some custom parts. It's not fast, but the low gearing is great for when you want torque, which is all the time. I've had so much fun with it, that I'm considering building a 2WD version which would be the WT-01. I own two Clodbusters or Super Clodbusters. Both have been modified in some way, but the one I find myself using more is the one I bought off of ebay. It was incomplete, so I bought some aftermarket goodies for it to make it just good enough without going crazy. The result was 100% worth it. I gotta throw a crawler in, my CC-01/XC Bronco is something I've enjoyed running with and against the Axial SCX10's years ago. I've spent some good time optimizing it for a fraction of what some people spend on their tiny trail trucks and has surprised a few when they see a plastic bathtub keeping up. Now it's sitting on the healing bench awaiting it's next update. My least favorites to drive would be my two F103 cars and the buggies with hard bodies(so all the SRB's). I do like them, but damaging them is not something I want to do, so they just sit on the shelf looking pretty.

Sweet! Love some of these revivals.

It's a good idea. I've already wreaked a clod body and I don't feel like putting in the labor to repair it. JConcepts and Parma make lexan bodies that fit the Clodbuster, so you can have a body shell for bashing and just use the nice hard body for parading and looking pretty.

Ah ha! It's real! I'm just expecting pranks today. That Monster Beetle do be handling good.

Ah yes happy April 1st. You got me, link goes nowhere.

From what I have been told and what I see in pictures, the cups and dogbone ends are larger on the ORV, so they are not interchangeable. However, the axle shafts seem to be in stock if you wish to order them directly from Tamiya.

Very cool 😎

Just tried the Schumacher Block tires and they hook really well in grass and loose soil. I also tried them in gravel and they throw the little rocks at you lol. I need to get a pair for the front because with the extra traction in the rear I'm now getting more push or understeer. The grass around here is a bit much for the sport tuned motor even with the lower gearing, so it does get pretty hot and drains the battery faster. I'd love to try the Hornet EVO on a track, but I need to upgrade the shocks first, because we can't have the caps pop off. That will be sometime in the future and I need to figure out what spare replacement parts I should store as well.

I wonder what vintage racing category the RC10 4WD would fit into since it's a car that has never been produced and only built as a prototype? Maybe some sort of open modded 4wd class?

Nobody is stopping you, everyone who has replied to the thread has given their opinions on the subject and topic.

It's still pretty much the same, but I did get new Kyosho Scorpion wheels, which does make the rear track wider. I've got some new Schumacher block tires too for the loose grassy stuff and astro turf. I had Hotshot tires on the wheels, but they only worked well in a mix of dirt, sand and small gravel, plus they need a WD40 bath. I like to have multiple wheel and tire sets for different types of surfaces, because having the right tire make a huge difference for performance and enjoyment.

I just remembered, Parma makes a lexan baja bug body that will fit the Monster Beetle. I've bought multiple of them over the years and are great for a basher. My Grasshopper has that body on it and I have a spare somewhere. The prices have gone up, I remember buying these for 25 bucks each years ago. https://www.amainhobbies.com/parma-pse-1-10-rock-crawler-monster-truck-old-school-bug-body-clear-180mm-par10340/p1588170

I was going to run one of my OG but modified Hornets and the Evo, but then it got dark out. The EVO now has the black can Sport Tuned motor in it, which I had in my M06 Beetle. So now both of these Hornets have Sport Tuned motors, which should be better for doing some performance comparisons. At least I had a chance to run the old Hornet, which I forgot how fast it was with the Sport Tuned motor. Really I don't want it any faster, that's like the sweet spot for it. The EVO on the other hand, might be able to handle more power and speed, so we'll see if I get the itch for more.

That's the way 80's monster trucks handled. Softer springs may help, but you still have limited suspension travel and a high center of gravity. The ORV platform started life as an offroad car with small wheels, then someone at Tamiya decided it could be a monster truck too with big tires and a high mounted body.

Tested 3 more motors and my results are pretty much the same as the results other people have gotten. (Some speed readings have been rounded off. All of my tests are done at 7.2 volts.) Tamiya Torque Tuned: 19,575 RPM Sport Tuned black can: 21,100 RPM Traxxas 550 Titan 23T: 14,000 RPM I threw the old 550 Titan in just for fun, it's definitely slow, but it was meant to be ran at 14.4 volts. Since it has good torque, I have one in my Trail Finder II. Maybe I might test some crawler motors in the future and see which one is the slowest lol.