MadAnt

Umm... something seems off about that motor. That text should not be that yellow. I think you may have bought a fake, which probably means you are not going to get any better performance than the stock silver can.

If it works, go for it. If you want to shorten the wheelbase in the future maybe by a few millimeters, you could design some offset control arms or knuckles.

100 stainless steel washers.

This thing just looks likes it would be fun to drive. You have done some great work.👍

Nice!👍

I keep the tags sometimes, I keep them in one of my boxes of spare parts. I also keep my manuals in a folder just incase I need to search parts up too.

So far everyone is planning for a good time. Friday for me is nothing special, but I should start making plans for future car projects, and that's not RC car projects. Let's just say there is a pretty painted V8 waiting to go in something.

I deleted it. It was already posted.

Wheelie from the Transformers movies was a modified HPI Wheely King with a Tamiya F-350 body. Not really vintage at all though.

The TXT-1 is in Bad Boys 2. Tamiya even advertised it on their site back then.

I'm still waiting for a few things that have been out of stock since last year. It's been so long, that I'm starting to think some of these Hop Up parts don't exist. You can wait or do as suggested and go with aftermarket substitutes.

Repaired shock tower and a zip tie with some glue to fix a screw boss for my WT-01.

I saw the face of the happy tractor and chuckled.

The front end does have a few flaws, but the fix for some of it is easy and I cover it on my Hornet EVO build thread. If you are going ahead with your own design, may I suggest have the front control arm shock mount be ramped in the front? From my experience running the evo and using the ampro design that little bit of support sticking out the bottom can catch on things in the ground. Having the front rounded or ramped forward could allow the control arm to slide over objects or obstacles rather than crashing into them.

Correct measurement is from pin center to pin center. The ball size is going to be tough to match, but the size can be reduced if you can get the pin out and file/machine it down.

Some singnage shops are a joke. I had one try to replicate some hood decals for a larger IRL project. They took measurements and photos of the original that I had, then I waited a few weeks before I was called to come in and see the finished product. It looked like crap, no really it was awful, not one straight line and made up of layered vinyl instead of being printed. The shop owner tried to defend his crappy work and tell me it was all free hand with a hobby knife. Apparently he had never heard of a straight edge before because it was extremely wavy with varying thicknesses. For the price that he was going to charge, I'm glad I just left and found another outfit that was located in Texas if I remember right. This other place printed the replica decals that I needed and charged a lower price. The quality is night and day, much better and as good as the original.

That's something I would like to try in the future. I'm sure I can find plenty of uses for it.

Just place a bevel gear in between the other two and it's locked. No putty, no JB weld, no aftermarket inserts.

Correction, Tamiya put 750,000 Sport Tuned stickers on Mabuchi motors.

It's amazing how much of the TL-01's DNA is shared on these platforms and other platforms that are still in production.

The darker color outboard axles are longer and may require a thicker hex hub or may be able to fit wheels that are thicker at the center hole. As for the tiny pin holes in the gearboxes, I have no clue, but I would assume it's a vent maybe?

Yup, same here, but I'm sure it's being worked on. Since the forum is being updated, expect some things to take awhile for full functionality.

The price is not too bad, I might order two and try them out once my old shafts break. My Blackfoot Xtreme has more extreme power now so stronger axle shafts may go with the theme.