MadAnt
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Posts posted by MadAnt
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@Re-Bugged those cars you have are stunning. One of the reasons why this hobby is so awesome is building the skills to make such beautiful creations.
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When I like box art, I usually do box art, sometimes I want to do something different because I think it would look better. Sometimes I will stick with the box art theme and just change the color, like on my hornet evo, because the flame stripes just look real good with gun metal.
The CC01 Bronco I have is just a simple green with a white top, because I like it.
Of course those paint jobs are just very simple, I like the simple stuff sometimes with no clutter from graphics and sponsor decals, just a simple normal looking road car will do.
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5 hours ago, TexVan said:
@MadAnt Here's what it looks like.
Drill it until the heads break off.
I have no clue how you messed this up unless you used the wrong type of driver or tools.
How do the rest of the gearbox screws look?
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Just drill the screw heads off and yank the motor out. Simple job, don't waste a whole gearbox.
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1 hour ago, Josie said:
Maybe obvious, but what is best way to paint car body with 2 or more different colours, please?
Guess mask out the area first before using first paint colour on unmasked area, but how to then mask the newly dry painted area as surely the paint may come away
or off especially when remove the masking tape that has adhesive?
It depends on the type of body you are painting and the pattern you are going for. Also the type of paint matters too, some colors are transparent and require more layers or a back coat. Some different types of paints can't mix unless the undercoat is fully cured.
On lexan bodies, you apply paint for polycarbonate plastics usually in the reverse pattern than what would be normal when painting something on the outside. However when it comes to certain two tone or simple stripe paint jobs, the order of which the color is applied will depend. Some paints lay on good and and non transparent and others like light metallics don't. Usually for simple two tone and stripes the design for the stripe or visible secondary color gets masked off first, then the primary color gets applied and may also have a back coat applied before or after the secondary color is applied depending on the transparency or desired effect.
There are multiple ways of how to do it and I'm afraid I can't explain them clearly, my advice is to practice and experiment on random scraps.
Some off my good and not so good paint jobs-
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Well, I decided to go with aluminum knuckles, so I bought a set of Hot Racing knuckles for the front and rear. The front knuckles were a direct swap using the old hardware and rear knuckles I did not bother to change because the hardware I have for the stock camber links will not work. The screw pins I have are threaded for plastic and I would need screw pins with machine thread, but if I had longer threaded camber links, I could use the hardware that came with the set. No big deal, even though it's listed for a WR-02, I can use the metal rear knuckles on a few other cars if I want.
Normally I like sticking with plastic components to take the blow for those accidental moments, but I'm still using the plastic C hubs and the super flexible control arms so it should still be ok in my mind.
Due to the height of the pivot ball and taller tires, the stock steering knuckles do flex a little bit and since this Blackfoot Xtreme is doing extreme speed now, maybe removing some of the steering flex is a good idea. Speaking of speed, I do want to get one of those GPS speed tracker thingys to see how fast some of my cars go with certain changes and upgrades.
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On 6/7/2025 at 12:41 PM, Josie said:
Officially hate E-clips
I hate E-clips too.😂
Magnets do a great job of picking up screws, pins and clips from the floor.
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That's freaking sweet! The bodyshell looks decent and the front bumper is looks surprisingly straight. It's goes to show that sometimes you find some goodies at swap meets and flea markets. Some day I'd like to go to Carlisle for the Mopar Nats, but I don't feel like taking a long trip lol.
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31 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:
Today we went to an autojumble - the same one at which I found a bargain M-01 a while back - and this time I found this Hornet chassis for sale:
Based on things like the ancient servo it has fitted, the provision for a hump pack, the spot to hook a rubber band for securing the AA batteries to power the pre-BEC radio gear, shafts instead of screws as kingpins, etc, I think it is an original. I have a re-re in my fleet as well as a Jun Watanabe version, but I've been wanting an original for a while now. It is missing a few bits, but to the best of my knowledge they are ones that haven't had their molds changed over the years, so I don't feel bad replacing them with new parts. Still undecided on the bodyshell - current thinking is a Penguin repop that I can trim to the original cutlines - but I am also considering a period hop-up or alternative, or maybe even a used and battered original if I can find one. We'll see what happens.
I see no cracks in the front of the chassis, that's a rare find for a Hornet lol.
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Bigfoot #4 is now a 4x4x4 so I gave it a little test drive today.
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Alrighty, back to the four wheel steering. Using the 4WS function on my Futaba 3PL transmitter, I can mix channel 4 with channel 1 and get 4 wheel steering, then by operating the D/R switch I can go from normal 4 wheel steering to crab steering mode. Also, since I have the linkage adjusted so the steering is set straight, I can return to 2 wheel front steering only just by turning off the 4WS function.
Crab-
Normal 4WS-
Now this Bigfoot is a true 4x4x4.
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Still for sale, don't be scared to make an offer.
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Since Bigfoot has four wheel steering, I figured it would be cool if my Bigfoot bodied Clod had four wheel steering as well. So while I was at the hobby store a few more times, I purchased another one of those BTA kits by JConcepts and a nice high torque metal case servo by Powerhobby, model 633MCW.
For $60USD Powerhobby has pretty nice servo with an all metal case and steel gears. It may cost more than the 25kg Hexfly servos, but whoever manufacturers these for Powerhobby seems to make a way superior product, because it just is. This thing is actually faster at 6V, I was expecting the speed to be the same-ish or slower, but It seem I was fooled by RedCat's false marketing for their 25kg Hexfly HX-3225 servo. Yes I'm comparing two different spec servos, but the HX-3225 claiming 0.14 seconds at 5.0v and losing to a servo like the 633MCW that claims 0.16 seconds at 6v does not look so great when comparing speed. Anyway, of course the more it costs, the better product you get, most of the time, but enough of that. I just wanted a great servo to keep the rear steering under control and to hold up during rough driving situations and the 633MCW looks like the right servo for the job.
The JConcepts BTA servo mounting kit sure is nice. The fact that I don't have a servo or bracket getting in the way of suspension travel with it hitting the chassis is a very welcomed nice to have, plus I like the cleaner look on the outside.
I'll have more photos later and show off the 4WS and crab steering.
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5 hours ago, urban warrior said:
ain't it a bit late for a XC/CC optimization guide? Or is NOW the right time, where Tamiya sent it into retirement? Seems as if I have to increase my stash of XC/CC parts ...
Not gonna lie, that's what I'm a bit worried about, even though there is maybe one model left using the CC01 chassis today. There is the chance that Tamiya may do some revisiting and have some of the hard bodied cars back for a bit, but we can't predict the future.
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The closest thing to a slipper clutch that I run on an on road car is a ball diff. Actually in my brushless TL01 I'm running two ball diffs. The one in the front was a used and notchy feeling ball diff that kind of acts like an LSD because of it's poor condition. The ball diff in the rear should do the slipping if I have it tuned right.
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1 hour ago, Grumpy pants said:
I’ve got a few tyre sets now, courtesy of @toyolien
This chassis will be light to moderately run on tarmac - which tyre combo would you recommend?
54995 M-Chassis 60D Super Radial Tires (Soft)
54999 M-Chassis 60D Super Radial Tires (Hard)
50684 M-Chassis 60D M-Grip Radial Tires
Any combo of tyres + or - foams?
Soft front and rear, stock recommended foams.
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Hmm... I'll have to give this simple green a try that some of you are recommending.
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It must be satire, they can't be this stupid. 🤣
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I hope he's just taking a break from the forum and is doing well.
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6 hours ago, Mad Ax said:
The real beauty of this kind of racing is that all you need is a patch of grass, a mower, some rope and some cones. No timing systems, no computerised scoring - you don't need a dedicated RC race venue to host these events.
Umm... yeah we don't have grass that fine around here.🤣 Cut it that short and it's burned, so most of the time it's cut at 1.5-2.5 inches everywhere. Lol, it's like the grass has mutated over time to be thick and harder to cut, which is also too much for those little electric lawnmowers to handle. Lol, those electric lawnmowers are actually less eco friendly because they will likely keep going in trash for being trash from day one, which is why we are still using "vintage" mowers built from the 60's, 70's, 80's and early 90's . Heck, some new landscape commercial machines have not changed much in the past 20 or so years too.
Sorry for the ramble about lawnmowers🤣.
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49 minutes ago, tamiya_1971 said:
used two MG996r's
Yeah, um... don't expect much from them servos, torque is fine, everything else is par.
And yeah, just swap the servo motor wires and BAM! You have reverse direction.
I've made the single mounted servo steering work better, but yeah, it still has some major flaws. I can probably fix most of the geometry issues, but the problem of parts flexing and the axles rotating from flex as well when the linkages push and pull is still an issue. So an axle mounted servo mounted setup like what you have and others as well fixes all those issues.
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Yeah it can make a difference passively or having air flow through them in the correct direction. It's just science. Also a little bit of thermal paste under the contact surface might help.
Some brushless motors have fins cut into the case as well.
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3 hours ago, urban warrior said:
Good evening!
This is the actual status of my used and hopped up XC/CC Wrangler:
I guess I will put some black shrink tubing on the rear 4-Link to make it look a bit more stealthy. I am not sure if I want to go the road of DIY anodizing. Too much respect for the chemicals.
Maybe the shocks are a bit too long. I have to check this, when I found some 1.55" tires. Actually I think I want to go for RC4WD 1.55" Rock Crusher X/Ts:
There's still a lot to tweak and tune. I have to build a rear cross brace to avoid some "hanging wings" at the rear. I made some experiences with a Tamiya Mistubishi Montero (Pajero), where I was wondering why the rear was dropping down. Until I discovered the hanging rear fenders. I want to create a front bumper mount bolted on the front "brick" and have the bumper disconnected from the bodyworks. And I would like to create a magnetic body fastening solution. Still loads of tasks.
BTW: The wheels are RC4WD and should be chromed. But the coating is nickel plating at best. RC4WD never understood when I tried to complain and explain the facts (I've been working in a company where we were galvanising our own products. So I know the visual difference between nickel and chrome). They were very generous, sending me a set of chromed rims as compensation. But they were still nickel plated. 🤷🏼♂️ I originally had planned to use those rims for a TWS CJ7 in "Santini Air" livery (Airwolf) ... well. But without bling-bling chrome it's only half the fun.
I'm liking it!
I need to do what you did and make some proper rear shock mounts for my CC01 Bronco.
This is also reminding me that I should get started on a optimization guide for the CC01/XC platform. These little trucks can do more than what people think.
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I really do hope that things are ok with NetSmith. The the amount of waiting time for a site owner who has responsibility here is concerning, which is why I have made this thread in General Discussion.
M06 Chassis Steering
in General discussions
Posted
What servo are you using?
With the servo saver disconnected, does the steering move freely?
Is the ground flat, has a crown or maybe a slope?