MadAnt
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Posts posted by MadAnt
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2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
little more compact to avoid the motor, maybe 5mm further back so hopefully I can avoid the sliding battery door.
If it works, go for it. If you want to shorten the wheelbase in the future maybe by a few millimeters, you could design some offset control arms or knuckles.
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100 stainless steel washers.
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This thing just looks likes it would be fun to drive. You have done some great work.👍
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I keep the tags sometimes, I keep them in one of my boxes of spare parts. I also keep my manuals in a folder just incase I need to search parts up too.
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So far everyone is planning for a good time. Friday for me is nothing special, but I should start making plans for future car projects, and that's not RC car projects. Let's just say there is a pretty painted V8 waiting to go in something.
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I deleted it. It was already posted.
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Wheelie from the Transformers movies was a modified HPI Wheely King with a Tamiya F-350 body.
Not really vintage at all though.
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The TXT-1 is in Bad Boys 2. Tamiya even advertised it on their site back then.
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I'm still waiting for a few things that have been out of stock since last year. It's been so long, that I'm starting to think some of these Hop Up parts don't exist.
You can wait or do as suggested and go with aftermarket substitutes.
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Repaired shock tower and a zip tie with some glue to fix a screw boss for my WT-01.
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I saw the face of the happy tractor and chuckled.
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9 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
As an aside I got a good look at my friends Hornet EVO last weekend, and I have to say I'm not massively impressed with the front end. The arms are nice, but it still has lots of bump steer and there were a couple of other details I didn't like, so I think I am going to go my own way with the front.
The front end does have a few flaws, but the fix for some of it is easy and I cover it on my Hornet EVO build thread. If you are going ahead with your own design, may I suggest have the front control arm shock mount be ramped in the front? From my experience running the evo and using the ampro design that little bit of support sticking out the bottom can catch on things in the ground. Having the front rounded or ramped forward could allow the control arm to slide over objects or obstacles rather than crashing into them.
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2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:
Although, it looks like their driveshafts are measured from dogbone to dogbone...
Probably doesn't matter anyway tbh, as they're too big to fit in the drive cup anyway...🤦♂️
Correct measurement is from pin center to pin center. The ball size is going to be tough to match, but the size can be reduced if you can get the pin out and file/machine it down.
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On 6/15/2025 at 6:46 PM, yogi-bear said:
any signage shop should be able to help you out, but cost will probably vary.
Some singnage shops are a joke. I had one try to replicate some hood decals for a larger IRL project. They took measurements and photos of the original that I had, then I waited a few weeks before I was called to come in and see the finished product. It looked like crap, no really it was awful, not one straight line and made up of layered vinyl instead of being printed. The shop owner tried to defend his crappy work and tell me it was all free hand with a hobby knife. Apparently he had never heard of a straight edge before because it was extremely wavy with varying thicknesses. For the price that he was going to charge, I'm glad I just left and found another outfit that was located in Texas if I remember right. This other place printed the replica decals that I needed and charged a lower price. The quality is night and day, much better and as good as the original.
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17 hours ago, ajdragon01 said:
Hi
Worse comes to worse you can try to learn how to case harden them. There are a couple of videos on YouTube showing how to case harden metal.
That's something I would like to try in the future. I'm sure I can find plenty of uses for it.
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1 hour ago, Rinskie said:
Yesterday I decided to open the GF-01 up to do some diff maintenance. I wanted the diffs to spin freely because I like to drive it in tight spaces and could use the extra turning freedom.
I built the diffs with crawling in mind so I packed them with Tamiya's diff putty to more or less lock them. I can assure each and everyone of you that I will never again use that stuff. It goes in like silly putty but melted inside the diffs to turn into this goopy, sticky slim that was a pain to get off. Thankfully the GF-01 diff gears are pot metal so I was able to soak them for several hours in solvent. I also decided I will never open it back up again. It was simply too much work.
Just place a bevel gear in between the other two and it's locked. No putty, no JB weld, no aftermarket inserts.
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Correction, Tamiya put 750,000 Sport Tuned stickers on Mabuchi motors.
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8 hours ago, markbt73 said:
The bumpers (or the adapter plates that hold them on) should all have that same TL-01 four-bolt mounting pattern, so yes, they should be interchangeable.
It's amazing how much of the TL-01's DNA is shared on these platforms and other platforms that are still in production.
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55 minutes ago, ajdragon01 said:
Hi
First question: What is the difference between the front and rear axles, other then the front not being shiny.
Second question: Why are there little pin holes in the chassis/tranny case, where each of the 9 gear pegs are at?
The darker color outboard axles are longer and may require a thicker hex hub or may be able to fit wheels that are thicker at the center hole.
As for the tiny pin holes in the gearboxes, I have no clue, but I would assume it's a vent maybe?
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4 minutes ago, Twinfan said:
Uploading a photo doesn't work for me since the forum software was updated.
Yup, same here, but I'm sure it's being worked on. Since the forum is being updated, expect some things to take awhile for full functionality.
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1 hour ago, dannymulder said:
If you want unbreakable driveshafts that do not wear fast use HPI H101234 center driveshafts, they are 72mm long a hair longer then the tamiya ones, I used them in my wt-01 truck for years, the tamiya ones they kept breaking on me with a hobbywing 3800kv brushless motor.
The only thing is that the sell just one driveshaft in the package so you have to buy 2 of them.
The price is not too bad, I might order two and try them out once my old shafts break. My Blackfoot Xtreme has more extreme power now so stronger axle shafts may go with the theme.
mtbkym01's project thread - Latest “This Fighter used to be a Champ”
in General discussions
Posted
Umm... something seems off about that motor. That text should not be that yellow. I think you may have bought a fake, which probably means you are not going to get any better performance than the stock silver can.