MadAnt
-
Posts
856 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by MadAnt
-
-
9 hours ago, netsmithUK said:
@MadAnt go here https://tcphotos.net/MadAnt and try the password reset with the password you have logged on this site
Darkmode is coming.
Icons/Reactions will take a look.
Got it working, thanks.
Also, looking forward to Darkmode.
-
9 hours ago, TwistedxSlayer said:
I think my expectation to be able to pick one up for £50/£75 was a silly dream lol
With patience I eventually found and won an auction for an incomplete WT-01 with condition issues for around $70usd. I've been trying to keep spending low enough to get it at where I want it, plus doing some testing and tuning. The reasonable deals are still out there sometimes, but unfortunately the easy to find ones have insane asking prices from greedy sellers.
-
1
-
-
3 minutes ago, magnumcyclonex said:
I think it is this full, pure, 100% concentration on the task at hand is what makes building Tamiya (and for other people Lego) so relaxing and therapeutic. You can physically visualize the progress you are making and when it is all said and done, you can be proud of the result
101%
I get in my little zone and make cool stuff happen. I try to achieve a vision and it's so rewarding when I do.
-
2
-
-
A dark mode option would be a nice to have.
-
8
-
-
Also, I see that you have updated the forum site. Can I make a request that I think other members may like as well? Can we have the option to select a dark mode? It would be easier on the eyes and help with saving power for mobile users.
-
2
-
-
8 hours ago, netsmithUK said:
Try it now - restarted it from today
Thank you, but what about TCphotos? I still have no password to log on.
-
6 hours ago, TwistedxSlayer said:
Agreed.
Having played with adding none TB01 parts to my TB01 Ultimate build.
Dog bone wise, you may be better off with CVDs from the TL01B? I am sure the WT01 shares the same suspension arms and hubs doesn't it?
Yes, TL-01B dogbones are the same as the WT/WR-01.
The shafts twisting under "stock" power does concern me, but if they get to a point were it gets harder to twist and there is no vibrations, then I'll be fine with that. However, if the dogbone shafts start to yield from twisting, then it's a serious issue and I need to heat treat the shafts or get some substitutes.
-
So I'm working on my WT-01 Blackfoot Xtreme and I noticed that the dogbone shafts are twisted, so the pins are out of phase. I thought it was odd that they twisted so easily to the point they were at, so out of curiosity I pulled a dogbone out of my WR-01 that's just using the Johnson motors from my Clod. When I looked at the shaft I noticed it was twisted too, which tells me that these Thunder Shot dogbones are not that strong. This is odd and the more I think about it, the more odd things look.
So, I love to miss match parts sometimes, so maybe the thicker in the middle re-re Hotshot II or Hotshot front dogbone shafts might fit? I don't know and are they stronger than the ThunderShot shafts? All I have to compare is the dogbone shafts from a vintage Hotshot 2, which has thicker ball ends, but the re-re has smaller ball ends on the shafts because it uses the TG10 outboard axles. Hmm... interesting, and the length at least for the fronts are the same. So would Hotshot re-re front dogbone shafts be an upgrade on cars that use the thundershot shafts?
-
1
-
-
My first Tamiya was a Grasshopper that was gifted to me. It's been through multiple evolutions or forms over the years from a buggy to a truck, to a monster buggy, then back to a buggy, then an on road car, then finally back to a buggy. It's been repaired multiple times and has had major surgery to repair the chassis after a high speed crash. It has become one of those rc cars that I will probably never get rid because of how special it is to me(that's a story for another time), now it just gets used lightly and rarely.
-
8
-
-
Grease the C- hub.
-
I don't own one, so all I can say is that it looks cool.
-
2
-
-
4 hours ago, No Slack said:
A TL-01 has negative caster. On my TL-01 I changed the C-hubs for TB-01's and you get positive caster for a stable chassis.
The TL-01 has 0° of caster, I am aware of the TB-01 C hubs, but they are not easy to get anymore. However, I just need to do a little search for GF-01 C hubs and BAM! Plenty of choices for 6° C hubs. I just ordered two sets which I should have sometime in a week or two.
Also, I've been staring at the C-hubs for the TT-02B and wonder if they can be easily retrofitted?🤔
-
2 hours ago, netsmithUK said:
If you've paid for subscription and not got access I will of course restart your 12mths from the date I get it sorted.
Yes, it's been over a month now sinc I paid. I've pinged you multiple times about it in the TC photos thread.
-
8 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
Any of m'learned colleagues let me know if this tub I got in my recent Grasshopper purchase is the EVO tub? Seems to have a lot of stuff around the shock towers, but I never had an original so I don't know
Holy cow! My theory was right.
This is a rare moment for me.😄
-
1
-
2
-
-
So... me membership should be fixed soon? @netsmithUK
-
1
-
-
6 hours ago, TurnipJF said:
Lack of rear toe would also be a factor. 53345 toe-in rear hubs help.
Mine has some rear toe, I'm using the rear knuckles for the M-06 if I remember. The front end wonders a bit at high speed unless I keep it under 28mph. I will use a different more aerodynamic body next time and order some new C hubs that give me some caster.
-
1
-
-
Took the TL-01 BMW M3 out for a speed run. It's got a 4300kv brushless Hobbywing EZ run motor, so the power is ballistic. Things got a little hairy under braking and I had a couple of violent rollovers. After all that, all I can do is get 31mph, it just too crazy at higher speed and the handling gets a bit twitchy and wonders a bit, so I never gave it the full beans.
The wondering is probably due to the lack of caster, so I'll have to do something about that.
-
7
-
-
In my opinion, best driving does not equal best handling. I focus mostly on the enjoyment experience along with handling. A tightly setup racecar that handles like it's on rails on a race track will get beat up and physically destroyed on the asphalt environments I run on. Sure on paper the racecar may look better, but the cracks and pot holes in the road render it useless.
-
Ok, a bit of an update. I took the gearbox out and discovered almost all of the mounting screw bosses are cracked. The cracks were a bit hard to see but it dose explain why most of the screws I took out kept spinning and that I did not catch them when I installed the bearings. I was just hoping for stripped screw holes that I can fix with JB weld, but the damage is too much for me to waste any time on. So I ordered two sets of new gearbox housings which I might have some time next week, then I might make some reinforcing rings to put over the screw bosses.
Also, I think I will go over the technique to installing certain screws in some plastics. I usually just work them back and forth until they get really hot from friction, then drive them in. I don't use the trick of heating screws with fire like some people do. My method seems to work ok and I think I'm not the only one who does it.
Anyway, I'll update this thread when new stuff happens.
-
2
-
-
I need to fire up my TL-01 again, it's just sitting pretty on the shelf.
This is also built from parts technically, and has two ball diffs. The front diff is an old worn out grindy notchy feeling ball diff that needs more effort to rotate, so it really acts like and LSD.
-
1
-
-
53 minutes ago, Black Phoenix said:
What cars just drive well?
For example: in my opinion a cc01 is cool but no really a well performing driver. A tt02b drives well in my opinion.
Share your opinions on cars that are good drivers and ones that are not.
It depends on the environment.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, netsmithUK said:
We use a 3rd party email company to send emails, I recently lost my debit cards so cancelled the cards, forgot to update to new card on their email service. Think thats the problem just trying to get it sorted out.
Netsmith is ALIVE!!!
-
I have more breakages, this time it's the rear shock tower ear. It had cracks in it, so it was just a matter of time before it gave up.
I might do a similar repair that I had done in the front or replace the gear box halves since the mounting holes are worn out. If I replace them, then I will reinforce the rear tower, and if not, I'll fill the screw holes with JB weld and drill them out.
Anyway, I did get some top speed recordings done. With a full charge running the team Orion method 17x2 motor and an 20 tooth pinion gear, the top speed was 22MPH, which is more than fast enough for me. With that amount of speed it was hard to stop, causing me to crash into a bush scratching up the front bumper. Since it was running a bit hot, I decided to install an 18 tooth pinion gear, which slowed the top speed down to 20MPH.
I would just like to add that most of the breakages I've had and worn screw holes are from previous condition issues. This was a cheap blackfoot Xtreme and I gave it new life with some improvements. It may be broken for now, but it will come back better than it was before. That's the game here, try things out and hopefully make it better for a reasonable cost.
-
3
-
-
2 hours ago, Kpowell911 said:
Posting for reference. Most of those hop ups are crazy rare now though ;(
Yes that is true, but some parts can still be substituted at least for now.
-
1
-
Your favourite looking RC?
in General discussions
Posted
It's a bit hard for me to pick.
For monster trucks, maybe the King Blackfoot. Then my Bigfoot 4 clod in 2nd.
For buggies? The Sand Scorcher takes 1st and the Kyosho Scorpion is maybe a second.
For everything else, it's just too much to choose from for me.