Gratuit

I do agree with skom25. Spray some WD40 then let it rest for a while. The best degripper I've ever seen is ZEP45, but it is hard to find. Maybe some heat can help (on aluminium). What I also do is a gentle hammer blow on the screwdriver. Take your time and use (very) good tools

I've used some putty in my TL01 diffs. In the rear one I tried to just put a small amount of it but didn't work quite good, centrifugal forces throwed it all around in the diff case. The bevel gears were greased before I'd apply putty, and it was quite easy to remove with some brake cleaner. Maybe that's also why the putty didn't worked good, it couldn't stick to the gears beacause of the grease

For me that's part of the fun. Although I could have spent not-so-much more money to buy a decent entry-level chassis (like an X-press XQ3S that costs 175€), I prefer playing with old stuff. That's part of the game for me, as I have as much pleasure trying to improve the car than driving it

Here is sunday's driving day report. In summary, everything has been (almost) fine So I first printed some shims of different thicknesses for the Servo holders so I could get rid of (most of) the bumpsteer. I must thinker to print some one-piece mounts in the future, but the result is fine. 2,5mm thick is too thick as the servo horn would rub on the chassis, 2mm are fine. So after a unpleasant wake-up (saturday evening was watching rally in the cold trying to get warmer with Christmas beers ), I went to the club to see that they had placed a totaly new carpet. A dark grey one, so the real carpet racing one that is supposed to be very grippy. But the other guys were complaining that it was quite slippy. I had taken the rear sway bar off the car, hopping it would help it beign less tail happy. The first session was quite good, a bit of oversteering but very nice compared to the last time. So I've swapped the wellow spings rear for red ones, + dubbled the treatment on the rear tires for the second session. Then it was too much, it feeled like it needed more direction. So in the third session, I've just put one treatment on the back tires. Again, it was better, but as the track was gaining adherence, I wanted to try with the yellow spings at rear. So the begginning of the 4th session was a total disaster, as it would grip-roll in every corner. Things that hadden't happened in the first sessions, the Stratus Body was helping a lot to lower the center of gravity. So back to the stand, and I installed the red springs again. It was better, although with the track gaining grip I had to stay very carefull in the corners. I can't do much against the high CG of the chassis itself, I have to live with it. I still had some oversteering in the sharp corners, and after session 4 I realized that the rear diff was totally free again. The diff putty was not working anymore... So I had to split the car in 2 and try to stiffen it with watherver I had with me. Which was 500k silicone oil, that I applied just on the gears, then sealing the diffs with green slime. I only worked for a couple of minutes, but I decided to keep on like this as I had no other choice and didn't want to spend another half our to get access to the diff. I also changed the tires, because after like 200 minutes of carpet they were dead: So voilà, after 8 driving sessions, I can say that I get more and more confident with the car. I had no major problem, just some set up and the minor issue with the rear diff. I will try to get AW grease for the next time. Also, my driving skills are improving. I still need to be more consistent, but I now it will only come with more driving. They other guys are amased by how the car handels for a 20+ years old all-plastic car. They are all driving modern carbon chassis like X-ray and X-press, there was only one TT02 and a TA08. I hope that next time there will be a race, as I feel I'm kind of ready now. I just had a bad news yesterday, as the Mylpas transponder I've bought is not compatible with their timing system. So I'll have to buy another one... A last picture of the chassis with its new shoes Thanks for reading !

I'd go with a versatile 4WD chassis. For example, it takes me less than an hour to go from there : to there: And, in between: I plan to do the same with my TL01, so we are able to drive together with my nephew

Next driving session is booked on sunday. Not a race yet, they are still playing with the timing system to avoid most of the problems on the d-day. I've been able to buy a second hand Mylaps transponder, so maybe I will have some laps time recorded. And that will allow me to better set the car and improve my driving skills. I've already changed some stuffs: I've stiffen the suspension, going from 2 to 1 hole pistons everywhere. Lower the car to ~5mm F & R, and ~5mm droop front and 6mm rear. I also made 2 more diffs, so now I have: one totally free, one medium light, one medium hard and one almost locked. I've placed the locked in front (it already was) and the medium light rear. So now I will be able to change the setting quite rapidly (even if it means to split the chassis in 2 to change the front one...). After one day of driving, the front is still ok with the putty. I'm not sure the medium ones will be as consistant, I'll make a report. And maybe switch to AW grease in those (when I'll found some). Next things to do: print some spare 3D parts in case of, front bumper holder is already done. I also have to check bumpsteer, as it seems it is not that good with the M-chassis servo horn. I'll cut the body posts when I'll be sure of the car height. I'm looking forward to sunday

I've prepared some bits for setting up the car more precisely: a stand, some set-up wheels and different gauges. You can see that the bumper is fixed, the new support seems unbreakable. I will print a second one for the next session to be sure... I've also changed the design of the battery retainers and printed them in TPU as well. Again, I will print some spares. The wheel's diameter is too large, and I'd prefer to have the nut hidden in them to use the gauges. So I will design and print new ones (these came from thingiverse or printables, I don't remember). This is how the car looks with old wheels I use for shelving and with the "new" body. I haven't cut the posts yet as I still have to set up the shocks and height before to do that, but you can see how low the Stratus sits compared to the quattro, as I had cut the posts for this one... It will sure help to lower the CG and minimize the roll-overs for the next carpet session. I still don't know when it'll be as my agenda is quite full till the end of the year...

I've designed and print a stand for when I'm working on a car. I had seen one on thingiverse but it uses 2 x 608 bearings and I had only one in stock... So I've made on from scratch with the bearings I had lying. And actually I don't know why I've put bearings, as I don't like the way it's always moving when I'm screwing something or so. So I've put an O-ring between the 2 parts to slow down the movements a bit and it is fine by now

Acutally in 2013 the ebikes were home engineered and build in France. They were also building some small electric trucks and selling rebranded taiwaneese escooters. I still own one of them (as I was trying to sell them in those times) and I've worked on an old BionX powered Matra ebike not later than last week I see now on their wikipedia page that the company went in bankruptcy in 2014, then they've sold the brand to a french ebike company. The most famous products were the Baghera and the Rancho (kind of 80's SUV, too much ahead of its time). But I do agree that the Murena was one of the nicest cars they have produced. But actually the most successfull car they've build was the first generation of Renault Espace, that was a Matra prototype build in Matra's factory...

The brand still exist but they just sell ebikes

Put my XV01 back in rally mode I have to find other tires as the rallyblock doesn't like the power of the 13.5t combo on (bad) asphalt. Plus the white painted wheels seem like they don't like gravel either

Thanks a lot. So I will order the hard set another time instead of a second 53163.

That would be very nice, thanks! Actually it would be very nice to go on with the update of this chart:

Yes, but to do that I have to buy the set I just wanted to know if somebody could confirm what you stated beore, that the new 53163 are stiffer than the old ones. Actually I would like to try some stiffer springs than the old 53163 I already own. I have a coupon in a shop and they can have the new 53163 but not the 53440 On-Road Tuned Hard Spring Set. Maybe I should wait for my next order in another shop where the 53440 are available...

Hi! Did someone could make more tests about those new 53163 springs? Are they effectively stiffer than the previuos ones? Thanks in advance for your help