Gratuit

Thanks for your kind messages The wheels offer 5mm offset. But they are the weak spot as I broke one during the first test pack: I had printed them without the reinforcement ribs I had previously included. That was a mistake So this night I printed some new ones with the reinforcements, but I made an error in the slicer and the result is a bit messy. I'll keep them as spares and will print them again. I've designed them to have the least supports needed. So just the hex par needs a support. I drill the center hole by myself, it makes it easier for the printer to work like this. Here is a cutted view of the rim: My printer (Sidewinder X2) is getting old, I'm waiting for some funds to buy a new one (certainly a Prusa XL as I need it for my job). Anyway, the chassis is working very nicely. The job isn't certainly done on it, but it is really fun. I took the whole gearbox appart as I have a small rattling noise but couldn't see any tooth damage or debris. I'll drive it as is as it is almost unhearable... Now I have modified the rear shock tower to be able to fit some body mounts. I just have to wait for the printer to have printed the rims. So maybe tomorrow it'll be ready. I'll try to get to the club during the week to test it

It's alive ! Ok, it doesn't work that good as the servo is dead, but I manage to drive it for some meters. Here is what have been done since last post: I cleaned the whole gearbox, and rebuilt the diff with AW grease for some limited slip effect. I've built new CVAs with orange O-rings. I usualy use x-rings, but I think that this build doesn't need that. They seem to stick a bit when they have sat still for a while, but otherwise they seems to work nicely. I used some O-ring grease when building them, plus polished the shafts. I built them with 3 holes pistons in front, 2 holes rear, 400 oil all around. Front springs are the original rear one of my DT03, and the rear ones are from the hotshot. I have designed and printed some rims with more offset. As the first idea was to make a Super Monster Beetle with the Super Astute colors scheme, I had bought some pink filament. I'm not sure I will follow this idea in the end -as I have thrown away the decal sheet I had made via MCI racing and I don't want to spend that fortune again in shipping costs + tariffs-, but it was black or pink. So let's try with pink A bit more details about the front: I used the piston rod of the original shocks as shaft. They need some spacers but otherwise they fit perfectly. I have designed and printed a new rear shock tower. I will have to modify it to receive the body mounts, and maybe I'll let them do in some FRP plate or so in the future. This begins slowly to look like a chassis I've fitted the electronics under the servo plate. Not the cleanest wiring I have done, but I will certainly have to modify it (and actually I changed the servo between this picture and now, so it has already changed ) With all the electronics installed, I have tried to set the camber and toe in in order to have something more or less drivable. And with the wheels: As I said it in the beginning of this post, the servo won't move to the right, plus it won't keep centered. I also have had a problem with my transmitter that makes jerkings in the servo. So I changed both and it seems to work, but in between it started to rain. So the first real tests will be for tomorrow...

Ok, I think I'll go the TRF201 wing route. I haven't found much cheaper ones than those... Thanks all for your answers

Hi! My DT03's wing doesn't seem to appreciate the many times I roll over while trying to learn to drive on an offroad rc track. So I'm looking for a new one. The 54211 TRF201 wing set costs 16€ (and contains 2 wings), while a hard plastic generic one costs 8€. I'm wondering if one of those won't last longer than the lexan one, I suppose the only flaw of it is its weight? Or did I missed something else? Thanks for your help

Today I managed to find some time to get to the track. Before to get there, I changed the oil in the dampers. I went for 300CST front and 400 rear. The car is far more easier to drive on the bumpy astro track, but I may try with 500CST rear as 400 is maybe a bit light. That will be for next time. Otherwise the car was OK, I just broke a rear upright: This looks like the same problem I had with the gearbox case that broke because of the loctite. I had a spare one with me so I could go on. I still have to improve my offroad driving skills and get used to the car, but globally it was a nice moment. I'll try to get there more regulary, I think that's the only thing to do now

I went to the track with the DT03 and met some new members of the club

Hi all! I have already speaken about this project in other threads, now it's time to start a proper thread as I have finally begun this build. A bit of history: My first hobby-grade rc car was a Monster Beetle I bought second hand in the 90's. I liked it a lot, but rapidly got problems with the hexagonal drive shafts. Since I came back in the hobby 3 years ago, the idea of restoring it was turning in my head. Unfortunately, all I've found back was some spares in a box. The chassis had disapeared. I didn't want to just buy a new kit, so I've been looking in the classifieds, and bought a cheap King Blackfoot with an incomplete body. I wanted to transform it to make it a bit more drivable, inspired by some threads of this forum (Mad Ax's among others). Just for bashing, and to take part to a Tamico Offroad cup leg near my place in august So, here it is when I received it: The first modification was to use some steering parts from my XV01 that I changed because they began to be a bit sloppy. But good enough for this car. So I designed a servo plate and printed it: I wanted to use hexes in front, because I want to preserve the original wheels and be able to exchange the wheels with another 4WD monter truck I'm building. I had some M chassis king pins left from a mistake I made while ordering parts some months ago, so ordered MF01X uprights that would fit. And they do fit perfectly with some spacers. I just had to make some attempts in order to get the perfect design and have no bumpsteer at all. Next step was to design and print a shock tower to fit the new CVA schocks. I've build one without oil, with a 7mm spacer in it to leave some droop. First attempt: Far too wide, but otherwise it's nice. The cover fit perfectly: The second version is better: I only have a problem of clearance with the wheel rubbing on the bottom of the schock. I will print some other wheels with more offset and that will solve it. Voilà, that's all for now. More to come in the next days/weeks

This is just a story imagined by a member of a french forum that was called "vintage-rc". So the demo vehicle has never existed... But you can imagine it

I designed a servo plate for my Super Monster Beetle Project (based on a King Blackfoot chassis). Now it is printing, I hope to be able to start the build soon (and the build thread).

I worked on the XV01. I had ordered a new steering system as the old one is getting sloppy. And I plan to use the old one on another build that's already sloppy I soon realised that I forgot to order the 850 bearings, and the old one are cooked. And I also have to order some diff outdrives... The 1000 000 oil in the diff + the high grip carpet track seem to be hard on them I'll try some lighter one... Some turnbuckles were bent, I could find strait ones in a batch of spares I bought cheaply second hands. They also came with low friction ball ends and aluminium ball studs. Now I have to wait for the parts to come in...

I've always been attracted by the TC01, but I had no need for it as I already haven't the time to drive all my cars. Then one appeared in the classifieds, half-build with some missing stuff (wheels, body and damper bodies (??)) for 80€ shipped, I couldn't resist That will be the project for the next winter

I'd try to find or to make a lightweight transmission shaft as the original one is quite heavy. Just cut and drill a 5mm aluminium or carbon bar as the hop-up is almost impossible to find

Last saturday I took the time to work on the car. Not many pictures but here is what has been done: - I swapped the gearbox for another one. I'm wondering if some Loctite I used for locking the ball connector may have come in contact with the plastic. Because it was almost falling apart into small bits... - I cleaned the gears in the diff to remove the AW grease and start again with less of it. I'll see if it helps the car turning. - I installed the HW 1080 and played with the settings. I have to see how I can use the Aux ouput of the receiver to command the drag brake. - I swapped the front springs for the red hop-ups ones. Here is how it looks now: Not as clean as before with the ESC behind the battery, but not that bad. I've run a pack through it in the public playground in front of my place. It steers very nicely on the grass, even with a bit of oversteering, so it may be good on astro. Next thing to do is to find some time to get to the track

I think this little vid says all Powder is kind of working, but can't stop the fire to come back.

I'm working all day long in ebike batteries, I have dozens of them in my workshop. I have just had one battery fire, due to my silliness (trying to take apart som glued-together cells, then shortcut, then fire). I had the chance to be able to throw it outside and let it burn, as it was a quite big battery (5P13S, so 65 x 18650 cells). Now I have a specific blanket for lithium fires, plus a specific fire extinguisher. A normal one won't work, it may even be worst as the liquid it contains may create more shortcuts. So if you want one you should have a powder one (that won't be as effective as a lithium specific one, but those are rare and quite expensive). The blanket is rather inexpensive, a metal box or bucket full of sand with a lid is quite efficient too. Be carefull, do not buy cr**py too-cheap-to-be-good stuff from amaliexprezon, take care of your batteries and you will never have problems