CMshooter

Darker colors first. Plan your masking in layers so that you can simply remove a layer for each color. After removing masks, hold up in sunlight to see if there is any bleed through that needs to be cleaned before painting over it and highlighting it. Tamiya body cleaner and cotton swabs are your friends for this.

Loose gravel tends to get strewn across my road. Deep gravel on the sides, if the BT0 spins out, it gets high centered.

I guess after I get around to ordering new chassis, it will go back to basic silver can motor.

Unfourtunately I may have found a fatal flaw running it on the road in front of the house. Was struggling to find traction worse than before. Suspension was dialed for the basketball court in town, and rough chip seal was just to bouncy. On a fast running past the driveway, rear of the car did a pole vault and stopped. Drives haft and A arm out if place...that is odd. When I removed the bumper in the house, this is what I found. Looks like screw holes split allowing back of rear end to pop apart

I finally an afternoon to play with toy cars. I installed the new front end fix for the Br-01. Less flexible when watching the linkage now.

It is a good idea. The key is a suitable track. I raced a ta01 against off road buggies years ago, and it was not holding up on the big jumps. Suspension was just disassembling itself every few runs. Ideal would be to set up in a rough, potholed gravel parking lot. A couple of jumps would be fun, but make sure they have transitions on the landings.

I raced mine years, and never broke shock towers. Maybe they were brittle from age. I only retired mine because the chassis broke in the center after 6 years of abuse. I had replaced the shocks, but just used stuff from the junk bin at the track.

Motor cleaner or simple green. Tire dressing for show car tires will just make them slip and slide when you try and drive it.

For over 20 years, the servos on my clod have just been bolted to the stamped metal braces on the top of the axles. I used some scrap aluminum U channel from the chassis. Have I done it wrong?

I've been in this hobby since about 1992, and have never seen the kind of wear you are seeing on a stock Tamiya kit. Do you have a crazy fast motor in it? Are you the type of driver who can break an anvil given the chance?

Is there a filter capacitor soldered from each lug to the motor can? When one or both is missing, they don't run right at partial throttle.

Sometimes we have to remember that when the Super Stock was a serious race motor, batteries were like 1400mah and we were barely gearing for a 4 minute race. Now even cheap nimh batteries are 3300mah, very easy to over gear and cook motors with long run times.

Sport tuned motor and ball bearings should make a good running blitzer. I ran a 19turn modified in mine for years.

Run time will just be a little shorter. I would make sure you they have been upraded with bearings at minimum. Oil shocks will help with the tunability to make use of the added speed. Torque tuned or Sport tuned 540 is really a noticable upgrade from stock on these, but does not have the replacable brushes of the Super Stock.

The popularity of lipo has lowered the price on nimh as far as I can see. These packs have never been this cheap. I still think the 3300 packs from traxxas are great for those of us not running crazy motors.