RC_Hobbyist

I have some experience with CVA shocks, as my Hornet Evo kit came with them and they work well. The reason above is why I decided to go with CVA shocks on the TT-02 Chassis

@Pylon80 Thank you for clarifying the information on the pinion gear. Now I do not have to worry about getting a steel pinion. In the manual I downloaded, it makes mention of a 22T pinion gear. I am assuming that is for your on road/Touring cars? Is there a download link for the addendum you posted a screenshot of?

@Rinskie Good to know. I checked the contents of the CVA kit I received and they do indeed come with more than eight ball studs. Will have to wait until I open the package to find out how many there are. Also checked my toolbox to see if I had any extra ball studs from my Hornet Evo (Which morphed into the Hornet Hopper Evo, as I purchased a Grasshopper II body for it :D) build, which I don't, as I used all of them from the kit.

@skom25 in case you missed it...😀

On another note, I did buy the CVA shocks yesterday and paid for overnight shipping, should be here sometime this morning. I plan on building the stock spring shocks that come with the kit and keeping them as spares. I also ordered steel bearing kit with my tt-02 order, which should be here sometime next week (The hobby shop places orders on Thursdays). Note: CVA shocks have already been delivered.

Will do. The hobby shop I ordered the kit from places their orders on Thursdays, so it should be here sometime next week.

I wonder why that person said the tt-02 rally kits, who I quoted said the rally kits cone with steel pinion gears? Only thing I can think of is he mistakenly said steel instead of aluminium.

Just downloaded the manual and checked. It just says pinion gear, no indication as to if it is steel or aluminum.

I am going to go with CVA shocks as well. My Hornet Evo has them and they work well. I already have a lot of spare parts & shock oil from my Hornet Evo build, except the rears on the Hornet Evo were slightly longer in comparison to the front due to the large diameter wheels. Oh I know I will enjoy the building process. I built the Hornet Evo 2WD buggy, so I have some experience And I am looking forward to running it once I am done.

I like to start things slow and work my way up speed wise. I have a sport tuned motor which I purchased for my Hornet Evo, but have not put it in yet, due to the fact that I want to get familiar with the handling on the stock motor before upgrading. Like I said we'll have to wait and see

in this thread, user Pylon80 states: "Note that the TT-02 rally kits come with a smaller pinion, well 2 actually, a 17 and a 19 and they're steel already." Since I got the Toyota Yaris WRT/WRC kit, it may come with steel pinions already. Will have to wait until I get the kit to find out

This will be my second build, first on road chassis. I am not sure if the TT-02 kit now comes with a steel pinion, like my Hornet Evo kit did. I may wait to get the kit and see and if not, I will get a set of steel pinions from amazon. I might consider getting the CVA shocks, since the Hornet Evo Kit came with them.

Since this my first on road kit, I want to keep modifications to a minimum and upgrade once I get some experience running this chassis. Only upgrade I purchased is the Tamiya bearing kit for this chassis.

As mentioned in this thread, I ordered a TT-02 chassis. I was wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks/anything I should watch out for while assembling the chassis.

Just ordered the 1/10 Toyota Gazoo Racing WRT/Yaris WRC TT-02 4x4 On-Road Touring Kit & a Noble NB4+ Transmitter to go with it. I was planning on getting a 4WD buggy, but changed my mind when I saw the above kit plus the fact that I have already purchased the Hornet Evo (Which evolved into the Hornet Hopper Evo, since I got a Grasshopper II body for it) Can't wait to get the kit and assemble it.

indeed 😀

So here is my finished, modded Grasshopper II body on my Hornet Evo chassis, with the stock Hornet Evo body on the left. In case you are wondering what modifications were made to the GH II body to make it fit: 1. The person who worked on my body cut a small piece of plastic from my damaged GH II body and stuck it on the inside so it would line up with the front body post on the chassis. 2. Made a very small cut on the front shock cut outs so it would fit over the front shocks on the chassis (Can't tell where). This modification made the stock front body post useable with both bodies. 3. Body was sanded and a matte finish was applied. Love the way the GH II body turned out & now I have two bodies to choose from 😀

Got an update from the person who is working on my GH II Body. He has filled in the the front body post hole on the GH II body and slightly trimmed the front shock cutouts to make it fit over the stock Hornet Evo front shocks. This also led to me not needing to buy a slightly longer body post, as the above modifications made the stock front body post on the Hornet Evo chassis useable (Also, don't have to worry about the stock HE body fitting). Next steps are: 1. Going to paint the body matte white (I prefer matte over the standard glossy body) 2. Put the decals on I will post a photo when I get the finished body.

So just to clarify... I took my GHII body to my local hobby shop and one of their techs told me they could fill the front body post hole & drill a new one over the front body post on the HE chassis. As previously mentioned, I will need to replace the stock HE front body post with a slightly longer one.

I take to no one has taken it apart for science yet?

I purchased a NIB tamiya sport tuned motor for my Hornet Evo. I know originally, the sport tuned motor came in a black can & in 2019 or so, they switched from a black can to a silver can. I was just curious if anyone knows why tamiya switch from black (Assuming it was black coated aluminium) to silver (I am assuming aluminum)? Also, the silver can sport tune has the same specs as the black can?

I was just going to make the hole on the GHII a bit longer and replace the Hornet EVO front body post with a slightly longer one as the stock front body post is just a tiny bit too short and the body will not go all the way down in front on the EVO chassis.

I have decided to make the front body clip hole on the GHII body a little longer and use a slightly longer body post. That way I can avoid modifying the chassis. Thanks for the tips

I could make the hole a little longer and get a little longer body post for the front. But even then, won't the body be held in place because of the slightly larger hole in the front? As far as modifying the chassis goes, that is a big no fro me,vas I still want to use my hornet Evo body.

Upon closer inspection, the front body post on the Hornet Evo chassis sits just behind the front body post hole on the GHII body. And I do see what you mean about it fluttering, especially on full throttle runs. Is there any such thing as an angled body post? If not, what do I do? I really don't want to modify the body, unless it is a last resort.