donut
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Posts posted by donut
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Think it can be RCed? Hop-up parts?
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Just thought of something, what if you moved the 1.5mm spacer to the front of front A-arm together with the 3mm spacer? This would move the front wheels back an additional 1.5mm (for the SR
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hi donut..... thanks for the comment.... took ur advice and swap the front arm from E2 to E3, and it did bring the front wheel back afew mm.... but i did this on the SR as i was happy with the WB of the HB....
link to the photos can be found below...
Glad it worked out. You're right as I forgot to mention i had the SR in mind when I suggested using the E3. Again, great work on the mod.
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Great tutorial. One thing though, I have a spare pair of DF03ra rear arms (part E3 instead of E2). These would seem to work even better since they would bring the front wheels back about a few mm compared to the E2.
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Here's something I started sometime ago and never got around to finishing (yet). It's a TA-02 with a Super Blackfoot shell. I made the FORD lettering on the hood using styrene sheet. The rear door is from a Blackfoot. One of the pics shows the body mount.
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There were waves that reached Philippine shores ranging from 40-60cm but no news of damage or anybody getting hurt.
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hi all,have been serching for years for some mini f1 1/28 scale f1 cars and hot up parts similar to the mini 1/32 scale cars.
are they still available anywhere?
im after some sponge tyres,front and rear bumpers with the angled roller mounts,axle roller bearings,gold terminals pretty much everything you can get for them
use to race them around 10 years ago in NZ.now live in AUS and cant find them anywhere
anyhelp will be good thanks
The only ones I know of are the kyosho F1 Mini-Zs.
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With the upcoming rerelease of the Rough Rider/Buggy Champ this might seem irrelevant but has anybody by chance tried this on the SB Jr. rims? It's measurements are outside Ø 73 mm, inside Ø 40 mm, width 19mm which is I think are exactly the dimensions of the SB Jr. I like the simplicity of the thread pattern. Thanks.
http://www.afv-model.com/4711shop/product_..._Road-tire.html
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ahh, the plot thickens!
i'll let myself out now...
"Rough Rider" and now "Hump" packs? Is this a bunch of SRB lovers getting together in groups to... Okay, I'm outta here.
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Does this mean the spare wheel/tire set will no longer come in the cool boxes? ...unless they remove the "Sand Blaster Jr" from the box art (for the front wheel/tire set)
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This should be great being able to "look around" the interior of your Tamiya
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http://rcdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7621#post7621
I really just want a bodyset
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Don't know if this has been posted before...
http://www.takaratomy.co.jp/products/qstee...miya/index.html
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Hey, I've got a 1/32 Monster Beetle Junior that I can paint like a Scorcher!(wow - think about a Full-functional Sand-Scorcher in 1/36 [] )http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=227077' title="http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=227077">
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Are those Rough Rider/XLT/Brat tires I see? [
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quote:Originally posted by Kendalboatsman
id="quote">id="quote">Fibrelyte in the UK do replacement SRB chassis plates.
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/tamiya/sand.html
Clive[
]Interesting but GBP30 plus shipping to my side of the world currently beyond my budget. Thanks for the link anyway. At least now I know it's there...who knows..
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Looking for an SRB FRP chassis plate together with the triangular lower aluminum plate. Doesn't have to be perfect but not too beat up as well. If you have one (or two) please let me know.
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2011 ReRe Sand Rover build up
in Re-Release Discussions
Posted
Finally got to work on my Sand Rover and followed your instructions on how to bring the wheels in. Only things I did different were:
- trimmed the front shock towers so they don't extend past the hood of the body
- fabricated an additional shock tower so I could cover up the holes on the hood and use extra DF-03ra shocks I had in my spares box
- trimmed the rear screw pins instead of drilling holes in the chassis
- used washers instead of spacers and installed the front uprights as far back the A-arms as possible
Now to cover that horrible gap between the chassis and body.