rajicon

I think this is the site sosidge was referring to, http://www.tam.ne.jp/nic/tires/tires_01e.html Its not hard at all. I and many others here have done this and not had and troubles. The ones I did, http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?c...326&id=4953

Out of all the old and new, I would have to say the Wild Willy 2. Many others are worth a mention, but WW2 scrapes in first.

I also found that as they are wider than standard touring car wheels, they come back in further towards the chassis, and they can rub on suspension parts when placed on different cars. I dont know what the TGX wheels are like on the TB01, but I have tried them on a Gravel Hound and would need quite alot of modification to the suspension arms (I made custom arms). The TL-01RA uses TL-01LA suspension arms, hub carriers and front and rear uprights. All being different to the standard TL01 ones. The wheels used are 53089 4WD Front Star Dish Wheels and 53092 4WD Spike Front Tires. These are also used on cars such as the Gravel Hound. Saying that, I have placed the wheels from my Gravel Hound onto my TA03F for a heap of extra clearance. They fit fine with no extra work needed. See here, http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?c...723&id=4953 I just placed a hack body on it asI needed to cut the arches a whole lot bigger.

Not much of a fan of the smaller RCs. 1/12 is about the smallest I would want. Anything smaller and it becomes difficult to realisticly use (my oppinion only). Besides its not quite the one I would like. More like this one below. Although these cant be sold to the general public for public roads, I did once see what looked like one driving around town here (a shame I wasnt quick enough to get my phone out). It could of either been a heavily modified road going Pajero, or a real one out for testing. This pic was from http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/motorsports/e/06dakar/ Click on "Daily Photo" on the right hand side for some really nice photos of the Pajero Evo in action during last years Dakar.

Yeah, Im from Melbourne, but I wont be home until April (living in Aomori, Japan at the moment). Even if I was home I wouldnt of arrived home from work in time anyway. Perhaps thats why I never saw much over the years. SBS and ABC do a great job of providing something other than the mindless drivel on the other networks. I would really love it if Tamiya were to produce the later Mitsubishi Pajero Evos in RC. These have always been a favourite of mine. I have been keen on these ever since I was a wee little 'un. I think it had to do with the original Tamiya Pajero. Or a truck (just like the DAF one mentioned above?) on something similar to a three speed truck chassis. Does anyone know what the TL-01RA Subaru Imprezzas are like as an off roader? Perhaps these would look a little better with wheels similar to XCs?

Hibernaculum, That picture of the Jaguar reminds me of a few Overlander conversions I have seen over the years. Mainly of Holdens with either the original chassis modified for front leaf springs and live axle or a Land Cruiser chassis and running gear with the sedan/wagon/ute body whacked on top. I say this as I often saw a Jaguar XJ-6 that was converted. I guess they wanted a little more than the 308 /turbo 400 gearbox transplant done so many times before (and still being done). The eight wheeled truck resembles a fire engine from an airport. The buggys have been banned now havent they? I havent seen much of the Dakar since the Wide World of Sports days. The buggy shown looks like it could be made from a grasshopper.

On the site terry.sc mentioned there is a Kyosho Phantom E4WD ( http://www.geocities.jp/kamiaraya5881/1stfantom1st.html ). 4wd, maybe use a TA03 belt and the pulleys. Also has a double deck. Looks simple yet a bit of planning involved, all of which could introduce you to ideas to use later on. Copy some axles and modify them a little maybe. You could even make it accept 1/10 touring car bodies with a bit of inspiration from the F103GT,because on the TA03 the pulleys are place at 257mm apart, the same as the wheelbase. No majorly complicated designing, just a lot of forward thinking.

As stated, the correct way to describe them would be 'rims'. Tyres/tires being what you are really after. Yet it seems to be common, and accepted to call rims wheels. Wheels are just a circular disc. Tyres and rims are just parts of the wheel. Tamiya refer rims as wheels. You are not the only person to buy something only to find it is different to what you wanted because of different ways of describing things throughout the world. I myself has done this too (non rc related).

The arms wil fit straight on. The tree contains both the upper and lower arms, with some extra bits too. M-03 C Parts 50793. With wider wheels, as noted they will rub. They will need a set of rims that offset alot. I dont think that there will be any that will be enough to bring it out far enough to fit a standard touring shell (which I presume you will use because of the wheelbase). I have seen some drift rims/wheels that have huge amounts of offset, but are more than likely used on 190mm wide cars with 200mm bodies. So that would be only 10mm. The width of a m chassis is only 165mm, therefore maybe bringing it to 175mm. It might be possible to stretch the rest with thicker wheel hexs and longer alxes. TG10 long axles (Parts 50823) with the wider hexs used on the Wild Willy 2 (E Parts 0005747) will stretch it a little, maybe not enough though, only around 10mm at the most.

And then, although it was not a hatch, there was the Citroen Traction Avant which was the first front wheel drive production car. It was a car of many firsts; overhead valve, monocoque body, independent suspension, along with many others. It first went into production in 1934 and continued for another 23 years. (How could I of overlooked this when I listed my favourites?)

I Australia there are power to weight restrictions on young drivers. Yet parents buy their kids WRXs, etc (or they buy themselves) and register the car under the parents names. They do this for two reasons. One, they kids are unable to register the car, and two, the insurance is too high or impossible to get. Then there are the kids who drive their parents cars, without the parents realising they are not allowed to drive it. I have seen a few high performance cars that have been involved in some decent accidents and having 'P' plate (probationary driver) displayed in the window. I wonder if the insurance companies paid out.

Interesting point, I guess I would still call it the same broom. I have a TA03F Lancer Evolution Evo IV which has a carbon chassis. When building, I used new 'spare parts' as the trees are black and not grey. It was also converted to an R version at the same time, so apart from using new gearbox cases, they are also different ones. About the only things used from the original parts were the diffs, gearbox shafts, bearings, screws and wheels. If these were cheap enough and easier to come by, I would of just built it all from spares. But I still consider it the kit from the box.

Sorry, I dont seem to get either of these. This is with both Firefox and IE. Would it have anything to do with me recently letting my membership lapse?

1.Ford RS 200 2. Lotus Elise 3. Porsche 550 Coming in close behind in no particular order would be Ford 32 and 33 in various bodies styles, Porsche 356, Mini Cooper, Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 5 and 6, Aston Martin Vantage and Vanquish, Toyota TA22 GT1600 Celica (in 4th place), Alfa Romeo 105 GT and GT Junior, Mazda RX7 series 6-8 and a few more that havent sprung to mind

I cant seem to find where to click to add a showroom entry to me favourites. Everything else is fine and quite like it.

Sorry, perhaps "high profile" was not the best choice of words. Maybe what I should of said those with larger or more interesting showrooms. Or the ones that have excellent and riveting input in the forums. Such as yourself Twinset (sorry if these seems like a little bit of a suck, but you get my drift). I agree with you totally on the text speak. I too find this annoying. I dont care about people whose English is not that good if it is their second language. In fact I feel extremely lucky that I am able to read their input, and somewhat apologetic that they have to use another language. As I am living in Japan, and although I can understand and speak a little Japanese, I am thankful of everybody who tries to speak English. Even if it is not that good I will always encourage them for the attempt. When people for English is their native tongue and dont even both to try (or do try, but to corrupt their writing instead), I tests my patience too. Sorry if I ran a little of topic. I guess these people are not interested enough to go looking for what they need to know. Maybe those of us who had to research what we needed before the days of the internet and access to everything in an instant understand more. Then there is spell and grammer checker for any important thing they have written so are a little lacking in ability. Now this is no dig at the young just the slack

While thinking about humidity, I wondered about the spraybooths which have water running down and along the walls. hmm????

Well Im not as high profile as the rest of you, therefore dont get so many requests for help. So then the ones I do get are usually genuine specific questions. Because of this they are always glad of the help and are willing to reply with a short note of thanks.

Yes, this maybe the right, yet rc cars have evolved and chassis/body design and construction changed conciderably. There are certian distinctive 'periods' that they have gone through. Just like real cars, the newer produced are extremly different than the early days of automobiles. For me I have always used the terms 'vintage' and 'classic' as generic ones. Vintage being early 'experiments' (ie, from the first to the pre war ones) and 'classic' (anything after the war that has a distinction from modern everyday cars, ie, old enough/different constuction or even modern classics such as Lotus Elise for it being different construction/style). I guess I would say the same for rc. Vintage being as everyone says, around the first 100 Tamiyas (or early models of other brands), and classic being other models that stand out from todays newly produced, such as TA01/2/3 or M01/2 as they are old and or different design. I would even go so far as to say if Tamiya was to cease production of the Hi-Lift then it would then be eligible for classic status.

I have a few TA03, in F and R configurations. I absolutely love them, but I think its more to do with the quirkiness of the front mounted motor, and how it can be changed to rear mounted configuration quite easy. One of them is a David Jun Pro, not quite the TRF version, but pretty **** close all the same. I dont race them, only around a parking lot etc for fun. And the Jun is staying new built. Anyway, the Jun doesnt have aluminium suspension arms but it does have aluminium hub carriers (with more caster) and 3mm pins with e clips to hold it all together. Also turnbuckles. The pins take so much slop out of the suspension. I also added the aluminium steering set up. Along with the turnbuckles (with good ball joint cups), there is slop removed from here too. The belts are a good choice as the standard slacken very quickly. The other things to get would be the Pro gearbox internal (0.6 module) to take away some of that slack too. The Jun also came with ball diffs, and as option there is a front one way and centre one way. I never worried about aluminium parts as they are expensive and even though they dont break, they can still bend. Plastic is cheaper to replace. Unless the car never had bearings and the plastic is worn as a result, dont worry about these. So just the usual, decent shocks maybe, some diffs and turnbulckles plus the 3mm pins, belt, maybe the aluminium steering and gearbox internals

This thread makes me feel both sad and happy. Sad that people have lost someone close to them and that the loved one can no longer enjoy the love that was shared with them. Yet at the same time that they were able to enjoy the love and care in the first place is good to know. Like everyone here, I too have gone through this many times. My first dog was abandoned with no concern of its well being. I was scared of everyone and anything. By chance my mother brought him home for what was just going to be one night. Ten years later he was no longer scared and enjoyed our company as much as we did his. Over the following years my family adopted many more dogs. These have all passed on now. The one thing that was in common between all of them is that, even though it was sad to see them go, I was glad to know that they were all loved and had a chance to enjoy life. While my brother and I were renting a house, my brothers girlfriend moved in with us. She brought along a cat. It was a strange cat, which at first didnt get along with our husky. One day she was run over. We were all so upset. For me this was the first cat I had lived with and had grown to love its quirky ways. There are many times when our pets become ill and the bills become high, yet we never think about anything more than what more we can do for their health. I am very sorry for everyones losses, yet glad they all had someone kind to care for them.

Could it be possible to just pour some epoxy into the cavity behind where the shock is fixed. This would strengthen it quite a bit.

Referring to correcting a rolling vehicle (active suspension) I was referring to what some full size racecars have used. It will adjust the the suspension on each corner individualy to try and keep it flatter. With ground effects, this could help generate a more consistant downforce. There is also active braking, where the roll/pitch/yaw, speed and steering input is taken into account and used to adjust the braking on each individual wheel. These would be out of the question on 1/10 scale. Then there is Active Yaw Control, which is used to to adjust front and rear torque split. Altough these would rely on some sort or accelerometer to measure a braking g-force. A gyro connected to an ESC would probably not be a good idea. Most gyros these days are peizo and no longer mechanical. The main use is to control the tail rotor of a RC helicopter. Yet these days RC Plane flyers are now using these to steady the flight. It in effect can be used as an auto-pilot. Some are even using these for automated flight. Glitch, please tell me more about the drift box. So, at a guess, as you hard turn trying to induce a slide it detects the force and adds countersteer. So then it steers in the opposite to what the driver is inputing. So if you turned even harder while this is happening, it would add even more countersteer. So then do you even need to countersteer at all? Do you just steer in the same direction (as if you would if you werent drifting at all) and the box does it all for you? Only having to adjust power accordingly? Is this anything like it?

Now how would he know that somebody bid on this item using his account? He would be notified by email that he had won the auction. Then shouldnt he also of noticed the emails stating that a bid had been placed on the 7 days earlier? Not to mention the one that said he was outbid. If he thinks somone has been using his account, shouldnt he take that up with eBay?

Sometimes I accidentely click on a bookmark in the toolbar (using Firefox) and go to another website by accident. I then click the back button and I have the same. No text and wont let me type. I click refresh and it all comes back. When replying, after taking a bit of time for the page to load, then reload (while it changes format) I find then find it has a delayed reaction to typing or hitting the backspace, therefore going back further than I wanted. Also, the new forums dont seem to fit my laptops screen. The old would self adjust.