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+1, to the recommendations, they are great. I have the Avante wheels and the fox wheels and they are identical reproductions using the same exact tyre dimensions. Paul.

I thought about doing the windscreen mounts Paul.

I think perhaps not It isn't a code though, it is written on the top of the mechanism box of every Sand Scorcher, Rough Rider, Ford Ranger and re issue Sand Scorcher and Buggy champ ever made! Paul.

Special Racing Buggy Applies to the Buggy Champ and Sand Scorcher, the Ford Ranger, although some people say it isn't a Buggy, but shares the same chassis and was brought out for people who wanted a 3 speed, but couldn't afford one. Others argue that the Super Champ is also a Special Racing Buggy (SRB) although it was marketed as an faster better buggy and has many different parts (and the words Special Racing Buggy are nowhere to be seen) Draw your own conclusions! Keep well Paul.

Sorry, I will fix that

Yes, it is punishable by death - moderators, please give me this users address so I can send round the Tamiyator T-1000 to stop this kind of behaviour Paul.

I have only heard bad things about them too, but I have never used them personally. Don't get Mark started on Tamiya pinions either P.

The 58** numbering convention was American, but it doesn't mean that the kit is going to be with a white or red body. In the UK and Europe as far as I can remember, kits were always 58***. Paul.

There is a collector based in Czech who would give a body part for that Skoda.... ;-) Paul.

Hi, I have already chromed loads of rear bumper cages in shiny mirror chrome, as well as the gear and motor covers :-) Is this what you meant? I have uploaded pics on TC and have them for sale on eBay. I was thinking of chroming front bumpers (regular re issue stock ones) if anyone thinks they will look good - they aren't box art though. Paul.

Hmm, looks like Philip, I know him well, he is based in Belgium and has many nice kits. That is definitely an English language version, but there is no way to tell if it is white or red. Paul.

MRC was the distributor of Tamiya kits at the time of the release of the Monster Beetle, which was 1986. Tamiya did not start up Tamiya INC (USA arm) until 1989, sidestepping and effectively ruining MRC in the process (although they still exist). The original kit bodies for the Monster Beetle (in other words, the first early production runs) were white (like the Sand Scorcher) and not in red, which came later on. MRC shrink wrapped kits in the 1980s and opinions are divided, however, if you have an original shrink wrapped kit, you can be sure the kit contains original parts. I have seen many kits which have been raided for parts over the years, only to be 'saved' by the addition of re issue parts by unscrupulous sellers. The desire to have a shrink wrapped kit doesn't stop there either, but this has been covered before. This being said, the real reason the white one became more sought after was due to the similarity to the Sand Scorcher (pre re issue days) and the ease to paint it in Sand Scorcher Box Art colours, as Sand Scorcher bodies are far rarer and more desirable (in fact, they still are, as the Sand Scorcher has actually been re issued on a Monster Beetle body). As the Monster Beetle falls outside the more coveted 1-50 models (not to say I don't like it myself) the body colour difference doesn't otherwise play a large part in determining value or collectability. I have both, as I like to have examples of all variations. Personally I view a red Monster Beetle new in box kit as more authentic, not because of age, but it simply fits better. Paul.

Hi Ali G. :-) I get the impression that they really are already clamping down in countries like Norway, Denmark and even here in Czech, there are billions in undeclared/underdeclared goods and all it takes is a few guys researching online who could recoup thosands a day each. Already Germany asks for Paypal invoices forwarded to prove what you paid etc. I think the 'golden' era of nods and winks is coming to a close, personally, especially with the government needing to get some cash in with the recession not in our distant memories. It will start to be run more as a business I reckon. The collection of money online is only the beginning, they will monitor all your purchases and goods. Paul.

Snowing, we will have 20 cms over the next 24-48 hours :-) Time to charge the batteries for the Blizzard again!

UK Models always include the ESC, not all imports do, plus there would be no follow up with recalls (as Tamiya have proven recently that their quality control isn't what it used to be). I will probably get slammed for saying this, but the more we chat about this online, the more likely people are going to get hit up as HMRC get more and more savvy to the tricks of the trade. It doesn't bother me, I don't live in England, but these guys in customs go online too :-) Paul.

That would be me :-) Please send me a PM. P.

Have a search on the forums here, there are loads of tips, some involving using special glue and strips of polycarbonate to strenghten the cracks from behind :-) The search engine is your friend! Paul.

Could you please be a little more specific? Thank you :-) Paul.

No, that is pretty much it. Sorry to crush your hope, but it is better that way (so my shrink says). Karma means something nice will come your way soon though... P.

I would recommend the Dynatech O2H motor, if you are after performance, as it is the highest performing motor from that era. Purists will say you should use a Dynatech 01R in this car, but you could also use a Technigold if you wanted old school. The Egress came with a 17T, 18T, 19T and 20T in the box, I assume you haven't found these? If you have, I would go Dynatech and 18T. Now you are waiting for that annoying guy living in Czech to send you some thrust bearings, you can concentrate on the body. Have you done a close inspection, is it cracked all round, or just badly painted ? Nitro fuel is something many people here use to remove old polycarbonate paint, hoping that is what you painted it with way back then. If the car is painted inside, a quick repaint could be done outside, although personally I don't like this, many people swear by this as an easy way to repaint. Regarding the wheels and tyres, if you don't need to go boxart, there are other hex wheels that will fit. Paul.

He is going to race and he is going to win :-)

Hmm, I think I already did. Let me check the chair....or is that drool? P.

Yeah, I love Ni-Cads. I am old fashioned that way, this new fangled stuff - like Lady Gaga, where will it be in 20 years time? Paul.

Or Special Limited Part Number 49171, which is a 7.2 Volt NiCad battery issued for installation into the Tyrrell reissue kit (as normal stick packs wouldn't fit) and readily available on eBay for a reasonable price :-) They fit nicely into the mechanism box. Has a regular Tamiya battery connector too. Paul.

On eBay if you type in 'One Piece Thrust Bearing' it is all that shows up :-) I have a bunch if you want, just PM me, or buy from eBay! Paul.