KEV THE REV

That does happen if you screw the fitting on without a washer , as I find the screw actually winds the fitting out , the washer keeps still whilst the screw turns , but a trim up works too

not built this car , but any lexan that I have painted I cut out first before paint

I didn't realise you were in the USA , some UK sales don't show up if they don't list as worldwide shipping , but there have been a lot for sale in the UK recently , some at knock down prices too , I've been tempted many times .

I've seen quite a few sold in last few months , quite a bit of difference in the prices I think , I fancy one myself . There is one for sale on eBay at the mo. , bit pricey though . This one sold a month ago , not a bad price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-Juggernaut/264581047022?hash=item3d9a4262ee:g:1dQAAOSwTR9d~-I3

Hi Jimbo . The QD range of cars and trucks use a small hex drive on the rear axle , smaller than the usual rear hex type , so choice of wheels is limited . The T/D uses the same wheels as the Thundershot and Super Sabre QD buggies , so a search for might prove fruitful , but these are very hard to come by in a good condition let alone new . Saying that there is a guy on eBay selling some new wheels that will probably fit , although he says in the ad that they 2 rear and 1 front wheels , on inspection appears to show 2 fronts and one rear , so maybe drop him a line to confirm . There is also a set of 4 gold wheels for sale , not sure if they will fit , so again drop him a line to confirm .

Nice work . The wheels look awesome , I love the red pinstripe showing against the chrome rim - excellent . I never like the re-re decals , so I usually get repro original type . The wiring route on the W/O & FAV can be an issue with space , and like you I like everything to be tidy . I've shaved the chassis tub here and there to achieve this too . Tyre lettering is a real pleasure - ( after it's complete and you've finished holding your breath for long periods of time ) , nice job you've done too , I have used the same Uni pen in the past .

No problem . Most servos are the same colour coded wires as yours , just avoid using a really old servo as the wiring could be wrong for your receiver . A new modern servo is easy to come by for your vintage Manta Ray

Ah , just assumed you had the MSC servo there . Swap the steering servo to the other receiver channel ( 1 or 2 ) to check that it works from the throttle trigger on the controller then the receiver should be good to go .

Channel 1 or 2 should be ok , it would just respond with the trigger or wheel on your controller - throttle would be with the trigger so if that is right , fine , if not reverse the channel position . If the trans and receiver are the same as your Egress then use CH2

At first glance the 2 lead plug is the wrong way round , the receiver shows an illustration of signal / +ve / -ve , you've plugged in the opposite way round so it is neg to pos and pos to neg and it's plugged into a channel rather than a battery terminal . I don't use 2.4G but usually with an MSC you would plug into a battery terminal on the receiver (27MHZ or similar) . With modern radio an ESC is used and plugged in to ch1 or 2 - whichever is the 'throttle' channel on the receiver which then supplies the power to the receiver on that channel .Not sure if that receiver is compatible with a manual speed controller , it may well be as it is supplied with power from the BEC lead . Someone will answer that pretty soon I guess .

I'm using these generic adjustable dampers on one of my LB's and some Ansmanns on another :- generic https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=133331&id=5280 Ansmann https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=123600&id=5280

MP & LB are 1/12th scale only , other than the 1/14th scale MP QD

If it is something like a Grasshopper or low end car , then yes , it could be cheaper to buy new , but for a hard to come by model - or your own holy grail and you have patience to restore it , it is sometimes worth taking the plunge . I usually buy a used RC with the belief that there are things ( usually the common problems ) to fix and figure that into my buy or don't buy thinking / budget on the car

You will find this is the case for many an unseen purchase . I think we have all fallen foul of the dud eBay purchase or similar , but on a positive , if it is something you can work with and really want and parts reasonably easy to come by , then it's 'crack on' as far as I'm concerned .

I think overall the machine screw is less 'brutal' on the plastic than a self tapper , plus if it is a critical part you can tap the hole to receive a machine screw . So for known problems on cars using self tapper - ie Monster Beetle you can fit machine screws from the start to prevent the problem further down the line . As to why Tamiya use ST - over MS I don't know , not really a cost saving thing , or maybe it is for Mr T .