KEV THE REV

I had a new in pack original GH MSC , and it did have the plastic coated sleeve over the fuse etc and no battery plug soldered on , just 2 wires for you to do it yourself

Thanks GTodd.

I'm selling my beloved Toyota Hilux 3 speed truck . The chassis was totally stripped and rebuilt . There are 4 new built dampers on there ( not filled) There is a new original rear bumper with it . The truck has a very nice radio box with both tabs . . There is a new unused transistor speed controller and a custom brushguard with the 'Twinset' alu guard uprights. Never been run since rebuild , some wires still need to be hooked up if you run it . Any more details , please drop me a line https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=79187&id=5280 Will be via insured post within mainland UK - no international shipping Make me a good offer PP friends or pay the fees

I did actually mention this to Pete a while back and he was going to make a prototype , don't know if he did - Pete ?

Does that come with flux capacitor ? This is looking better every time I see it - you can never go over the top i.m.o

- Fantastic stuff H

The pinion looks to be a long way out , are you sure it isn't rubbing the gearbox opening there . Also you haven't fitted the motor cover and just holding the motor with one bolt . The bolt might be going into the motor too far and under torque the motor could be shifting as it isn't bolted in on both sides

So if I used this in an LB in battery slot , how much padding would it need ? , or could I strap it to the old position on the top rear shelf ?

Is the alignment tolerance correct between the motor / pinion to spur gear ?

it does sound like something is rubbing , could be something touching the propshaft joint at the motor end ? , or a rear drive joint ? Hard to focus on anything in particular but it does appear that the rear drive joint is moving around , or is that just the light and shade with the movement of the camera . Try rotating the rear wheels together by hand so it engages the diff and motor without using power and see if it feels 'notchy' and you might be able to feel the 'click' when it happens and locate the source

I've just fitted a 3650 60A Gool motor and ESC into a Lunchie , and it is sharp off the mark even with a NiMh battery and responds well to foreward , reverse , brake etc . It is much faster than the 15T motor I took out of it . I hope you get yours sorted

Would something like this be a good starter point ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZOP-Power-2200mAh-7-4V-35C-2S-LiPo-Battery-T-Plug-for-RC-Car-Airplane-Helicopter/233617098986?

Thanks for the info and back up . Next step Li-Po - the dark art

After some deliberation and talking to JJ re the ORV strengtheners and wanting to crawl out of my cave and evolve RC wise , I finally got a Goolrc brushless motor and ESC and lobbed it into one of my LB runners which did have a 15t Firebolt motor in it . I was happy with the Firebolt until this B/L motor went in and the world was a different place . The increased power from a mere 3800 NiMh pack was vast . I bought a new charger some time ago which has Li-Po capability - and convinced myself I wouldn't need the Li-Po facility ( yeah right ) , so , some time in the future I will be Li-Po'd up as I believe it will give increased power ? and extended run time ? am I right ?

it does sound un-nerving