KEV THE REV

I might have some Hornet bits and bobs here . No tub tho. Which damper fittings do you need ? Upper or lower end ?

Great work all round

Excellent work on those wheels :) I need to try the narrowing down of the 915's to 315's . Any tips , other than brown trousers

Looks great . The motor could be a little tighter in there though , I'm sure I spotted a flys leg between the motor and the HB body . I wondered about using a HB re-re body and filling in the bomb holes , now I can see it looks good Just out of interest , what would happen if you turned the steering upright brackets the other the other way round , would that even up the wheelbase to the DT chassis ? Would it foul the steering geo. ?

Most likely . I caught the back end of a Vanessa van in primer too the other day

As title , looking for empty gearbox halves , rear arms and 2 x roll bar clamps , re-re or MK2 vintage , new or used with good threads UK please Thanks

saw this today Sweeeet

There's a guy near me has a candy red beach buggy , awesome.

Phew !! , I was hoping you'd do that , good choice . I love this and the stance is great , great mods by all of you . I'll probs have a go at this at some point

Before you go out to the woods with it , you might want to fit a failsafe to the throttle servo on the RX to prevent any runaways if you lose signal or battery , unless your RX has a failsafe already

Cool - can't wait . I had an MT2 some years back it was a great truck

Speak to Rob member IBIFTKH , he is the WW painting master

I've got 4 x 20t pinions and 1 x 15t brass pinions . I think they are new but are weathered from storage , the 15t might have seen some use , but is weathered . One of the 20T is new for sure and is very clean offers ?

Excellent , sounds like you are gaining a lot of experience and loving it !! - well done both of you

I've never carried this out on a Clod chassis , but I have done this sort of thing on other RC parts . This looks like a simple Dremmel job with a drum sander as that is what I would use to do this .

Come on Jon , what's next

Snap :)

I spaced out the battery stays on both sides to give the cables some slack . I think I used old 850 bushes iirc . I also have 4mm screws that are slightly longer than Tamiya to help with the spacer

The carb will need to be primed on the start up . I can't remember if the MT2 tank has a primer button . If not , pull the pipe off the exhaust nipple on the exhaust pipe and blow into the fuel pipe , you will see the fuel travel along the inlet pipe to the carb from the fuel tank , re-fit the pipe onto the exhaust , switch on radio TX first then RX , attach glo-heater and crank on the Roto -Start . You can check the throttle opening by eye down the barrell of the carb with filter off , there should be a very small gap ( idle setting) . If it is wide open , back off the idle screw , reverse the proceedure for no gap at all , re-fit air filter

Yes indeed . I keep it indoors out of sunlight too , as you said it breaks down with age and loses some of its potency over time if not used

The carb is stuck with old fuel , see how the soak goes . If it frees it up then great . It will probably need a service at some point . The engine turns over , but could still have old gunk in the bottom of the casing . Check / clean the air filter foam / cartridge element and use some drops of air filter oil . Once assembled you could try kicking it over with the rotostart you have there if you have a glo-plug heater . 20% is a good staring point on fuel. If it fires up you will need run it around to get it hot and not bog down at low speed too much , run it some and check your tuning . It will smoke as it cleans out the old fuel from the engine and exhaust pipe . Some smoke on running / acceleration is ok , running with no smoke could mean a too lean a carb setting and potential overheating - leading to a seize . Take it easy on running it . Once you have finished running the engine you need to drop in some after run oil to prevent the old fuel gunking up the works again . Check for leaks from the joints of engine crank case / head carb gasket . Maintenance / overhaul of engine / damper oil , gaskets etc will be required as the whole truck has sat for a decade

I use smooth faced pliers with rubber sheet wrapped round the damper shaft , or some Lunchbox etc damper rubber buffer tubing sliced on one side , grips well with pliers , no damage...Works on alu damper bodies too to get the caps off

Beat me to it Terry

As title UK, used is fine Thanks

Well that 'made my day'