KEV THE REV

I had noticed on the vintage models that the shafts varied slightly , old Pajero to Lunchbox etc , basically the same but small differences . I've not come across this on re-re yet , but you can obtain 4mm ny-loc nuts that are thinner than Tamiya ones and that might work out for you . I have used these on different applications , but not on GH re-re - yet .

Driver figure finished , along with the fuel cans . I filled in the drivers neck /collar line as the mouldings leave a kind of void that looks wierd , much better now

Have a look here :-

Thanks for the kind words guys , much appreciated

Thanks for the reply . I don't intend to run this one a lot , but if I do get problems I'll rethink it . Thanks again for the info .

Slight hi-jack here . I've got one of those clone Tower MG996R servos ( I say clone because it was cheap ) with a black ? 1060 - looks the same as my red HW 1060 and works the same , the servo info. states 13 - 15 KG torque , are the servo torque figures accurate being as it is possibly a clone ? , would it still be ok with a 1060 ESC even if the figures were accurate ? . I've seen this discussed somewhere on here before and wasn't sure whether to use the servo with the ESC or not ? I'm using 27AM radio - I know I need to upgrade to 2.4 , but for now it is 27AM no end point adjustments on the TX Thanks

Cap finished

Looking foreward to this . I love your builds

Had a re-think on the drivers head , still looking for a FAV drivers head, but might stick with this mean and moody style driver . I Dremmeled down the HB drivers Stetson brim , heated the peak area and reshaped it into curved style peak as shown in the pic. and turned it into a baseball / fatigue style cap , maybe he is off duty with R&R time . With some more work I think it will look ok .

The screaching is most likely the motor bearings that have dried out . Some light oil into the ends of the motor could solve that - or a new motor . If you buy a BEC receiver you won't need the AA battery box to run it , you just plug in the steering servo lead and the lead from the speed controller switch and it will be powered up by the stick battery . You can simplify things and make running more efficient by fitting an ESC instead of the servo and speed controller -a Hobbywing Quicrun1060 or similar , easy to fit - plug and play . The gear box could do with a stripdown as it is probs filled with old greae etc , and get some ballrace bearings for gearbox and wheels to help run time and smoothness

Put some more time in . got the driver painted , needs a head !! - anyone got an FAV drivers head ? PLEASE !! . Got the steering set up . I used Lunchbox re-re ball joints that bolt into the original steering arms and used a P parts MB / BF etc servo saver with the crank on it and more re-re LB ball joints bolted onto it . 2 X LB re-re 45mm steering rods - fits a treat . Torque Tuned motor installed - super smooth gears , rear arms , axles and flex plate fitted too

1 / You will need to cut the tub slightly to get the servo mount in . 2 / Contact AmPro via TC , he is a member here , Alberto (Pintopower) he should be able to answer your questions . I have used his rear axle brace , and I have converted one of my LB's with the CRP FX10 kit , and another LB with a Kyosho Ultima front beam . It does make a difference , I'm sure you will get yours sorted soon

As above , it's the ultimate solution

I've experimented with the WW2 decals that I intend to use , namely the American white stars, to remove the gloss and found a light run over with very fine wet and dry works well and looks more matt and authentic.

Still work in progress I believe :)

You're right . I love the old quirky original , the re-re doesn't quite do it for me . As this was a save from the bin salvage I thought I'd give a bit of an alternate look while I was fixing it , nothing to lose I guess , and also find new ways to repair the seemingly unrepairable

Looking at the HB / SR front wheels and tyres , it seems to me that the tyre tread width is too wide for the wheel width and this kind of pinches the tyre and make the tyre wall bend in and look odd . I might try to rectify this with some sort of spacer disc around 4mm or so in the centre of the 2 wheel halves to widen the wheel and use a Lunchbox axle ( possibly) - might be too wide even with a spacer on the inside . I don't want to make the front track too wide that it looks bizarre

Made a platform for the ESC and bolted it to the original MSC position leaving space for the RX beside it in the tub floor. . Sprayed the SRB bumper matt green to match the body

I agree - looks ACE !!

Outstanding !! - you've put me in the shade there

Got some time on the build . Front damper turrets finished and SRB damper bushes installed . Made and fitted a steering servo platform ( will be black ) to bolt in the servo , fitted a servo saver and will be fitting 5mm ball ends and 3mm rods. Picked up some front wheels and split tyres repaired these , see pic below . The wheels were painted , so that was stripped and the outers painted in green drab - see pic for before and after colours. Got a Torque Tuned motor , 1060 ESC to go in too. Sprayed the driver platform Matt black and need to paint the driver detail once I get an FAV drivers head , anyone got one spare ? .

Very nice . It is worth what someone is willing to pay , sounds harsh , but that's how it goes . If you get the right buyer , it could make good money . It is presented well , nice finsh , great wheels and the special chrome chassis frame . Adding the driver might add more money ?

Army drab green applied to body and cans / lights etc Looks gray under indoor light , but is green for sure

For sure

I use Halfords paints generally. Good quality paint and the cans spray well , no spatter etc . I often use their top coats too .