KEV THE REV

Well Tony , here is one idea , a std type SRB set up which you can adapt in any way you need to

Hi Anders , its good to know that RC is still firmly in your blood .Good luck with the 1:1 driving sounds great .I've seen some of that off road ex military stuff on Sky TV - awesome !!.BTW , just as little note , have a look down the list of 'general discussions ' here and you will see my Champ restyle project , which is centred around your old Champ shell that you sent a while back ,so i could use the nose from it , remember? - cheers for now - Kev []

As it says , new in bag but missing one hex drive fitting but has drive pins

As it says , all new old stock - suit Mondeo ,Civic etc

New , and original release J parts chrome front and rear bumpers inc the backing panel for sale now

Hi Ryck, If these decals are not taken by Halfcab ,then how much do you want for them , inc airmail shipping to the UK - or any trades? - cheers ,Kev [Y]

Thanks Scott ,will do.- Nice to hear from you mate ,- I've fitted a Reedy modified into it today , so i'll post some shots of that when i get a mo. I'm thinking about a yellow / chrome scheme or maybe the 'Red Bull' style as i love the way that looks but the decals are a bit scarce.If i can find some it might sway me [],cheers ,Kev

Lower front damper mount mod champ resto project chassis bu

It all went together well with a bit of measuring and cutting Chris - here is a progress shot of chassis rebuild, Ballraced gearbox ,new gears, Hornet front damper lower mount mod using the retro Frog damper lower mount eye and the Frog spring tensioner disc fitted upside down on top of the lower damper mount so as to 'centre' the spring in place.Battery quick release 'clip' is made of 2 Frog etc gearbox alu inserts bolted on from the bottom of the chassis then the raised type 5mm brass ballends are bolted into the top of that ,this then accepts the tie rod made from 2x 5mm Tamiya tie rod ends and a threaded bar , it all snaps together and is very stable.The rear battery steadier pegs are also made from the Frog gearbox alu inserts , they work great and are a very good substitute for the original battery pegs for a Champ if you get stuck for them.More stuff to follow as i progress - cheers ,Kev champ resto project chassis bu

Thanks Pete, i raided the old spares boxes for anything i could use , and what i didn't have , i made !! (good ol' B+Q - they have a great stock of alu tubeing , threaded rod , steel rod ,alu plate etc) []

Here is a raw shot of the rear before stripping down - rear bumper is provisional idea , but not set on it yet

Thanks Chris. The car is in pieces now whilst i build the gear box and suspension .Once i have cleaned up the rear bars etc , i'll try to post some more shots of it going back together ,(but in the mean time here is a shot of the chassis before stripping down),The rear cage is a reversal of the roll bar and rear guard , the roll bar is modifed in length to suit the rear projection i wanted as i tried to keep the length as short as poss but still utilise the 'FS' plate .All in all , a simple idea of a Champ with a twist .- cheers ,Kev

If you mean shining the finished painted coat , then once the paint is wet flatted , you simply polish up with a good automotive car polish and buff up to a shine .This will also apply if you have a final lacquer coat to polish up.

Hi all, here is a project i am working on .This started out as a donor Champ body which i got from Focus 1 (thanks Anders),I needed the front nose to graft on to my damaged Champ shell , this one was missing the rear end amd roll cage.I successfully grafted the nose and i was left with this Champ mid body section - no front ,no back and no roof etc.So i got to thinking about what i could do with it ,and the old gray matter got rolling .I made up a new front , cut out the old front roll bar castings and smoothed it all in ,and fitted in a repro Champ dash that i made and fabbed up a steel roll cage for the body .I had some left over Champ chassis parts from previous resto. projects ,and with a bit of fabrication / restyling etc etc this is the initial result.The driver is a Fox driver body with the base section cut away ,so just the driver figure is left ,and this was grafted onto a custom made driver platform .The radio deck is a custom short alloy job allowing for a std. stick pack to be fitted in .The rear body mounts are custom made and lower the body at the rear to give a sleeker look, the driver also sits lower on its platform to give a less 'perched up' look.Direct drive heavy duty steering has been fitted ,as has a custom quick release battery stay.Frog retro rear dampers are fitted to custom rear mounts and brace set up, and original release Hornet dampers to the front ,complete with custom alloy spring tensioners.More to come as i get more done .This all needs to be completely stripped to paint and polish up etc As always , comments are welcome []

Here is a shot of the FAV arm on the left , the Wild One arm on the right .The Wild One E parts are still stamped 'RCC Attack vehicle 1984' though - confusing innit !! .When you buy another tree make sure one of the front arms is marked 'Wild One' then you will have the right tree wild one and FAV front arms.jp

By what i can see from your photo ,i think i am right in what i said and that is ,that you have FAV arms 160mm between pins and 175mm for Wild One (can you show a top shot of the complete arm only for clarity?) The arms will look similar until you put them side by side ,as the Wild One outer ends where the upright fits in is 7.5mm longer each side and Wild One arms have 'Wild One' stamped on them both or maybe just one, the FAV E parts are also black though

I think i might have the answer to your problem .You say there is more plastic protruding which fouls the damper bracket .I have checked all of my E parts stocks and it is possible that you have the FAV E parts which has different front arms to the Wild one.The FAV front track is 15mm narrower than the Wild One and has a different damper mount casting.The Wild One / FAV E parts that are being sold now are strictly speaking Wild ones but will fit the FAV as the FAV damper mount is more basic in design.If you bought the E parts you have recently and they are original FAV E parts , then you have something quite rare but you may still need Wild One front arms as the track width will be 15mm too narrow if you modify the arms you have .I hope this solves the problem []

Hold on HB , not so fast with the Dremel.Here is a shot of my W/O new build which is under construction right now ( sounds real busy don't it ).The lower bracket goes on the top of the arm so that the bracket and screw head are visible (see pic).It should go together easy now [] wild one front damper lower mo

Purple Rob had some plastic ones Jerry.

Very nice Mike.- Just a note to add to my last post, with my last Champ resto . i cleaned all the parts by washing and scrubbing etc (Jif - or Cif as it is now known is good for this) .Then i used a small fine steel wire brush over the casings and cast parts - with great care of course !! and this is the result champ chassis msc long shot.jp

Why not check out Mooseys guide on T101.com as he has done exactly what you are thinking of doing with his Champ , and you can see a step by step giude to restoring it [H]

Both ways for me too. If the car is a shelfer then lacquering is a good option, keeps the decals fresh and sharp. I use Halfords acrylic laquer in light coats.

The basic front arm set up is similar , so no probs there , but you will need different front uprights as the Blitzer rims are wider than the Hawk ones

Fantastic !!.How does that prop work , is it and flexible shaft?

Looks great Jim, how about a shot of that chassis top less - looks like some cool stuff going on under there []