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KEV THE REV

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Everything posted by KEV THE REV

  1. Looks like you're already doing a great job there Rusty .I'd like to see a shot or 2 in the sunlight when its finished, that colour will really kick a*s [H]
  2. Those coil over springs are CRP ones , i had the collets top and bottom machined up for me .I will be making more in time for my other SRB dampers (Ranger, R/R ,Champ etc) and yes they are on the rears too.Thanks for the comments guys []
  3. Thanks for the kind words Neo []
  4. Here is # 77 on a restored Champ chassis - this is Volkswagen brilliant orange / toyota white , 3 layers of acrylic lacquer
  5. i have also fitted custom made coil overs to the original dampers [] oh and the #7 drivers head is a Fox drivers
  6. #7 has a steering column fitted . I didn't like the steering wheel 'going nowhere' ,and pointing into space, so i reshaped his hands and the steering wheel , fitted a column and a dash too
  7. Here is # 7 - need to letter and complete the front tyre, custom front guard fitted , metal debris mesh fitted.
  8. Hi Neo , i'll get a few shots done and post something here as soon as i can []
  9. If you like the colour of Joe's #7 bug , then it now sports Ford Flare base with 3 acrylic lacquer coats and the original silver bottom style remains, it looks the same as in the pic that Mike T. posted .The shell got wrecked ,and now i own it .It has been fully repaired by me and approved by the man himself [H]
  10. [*] I NEED 3 OF THE BATTERY RETAINING ALUMINIUM PEGS - CHEERS [*]
  11. Yes thats right , still looking for parts for my Champ [<)] If you have the original nylon bands set complete and original in its bag then let me know how much , or what trade you want for it []
  12. I have these hubs from a while back , they are all the same design , 2 are in alloy the rest are plastic, all of the ones on the left of the pic are stamped L and the one on right is stamped R.They look like the TA0 type of hub , but smaller.Any ideas?
  13. Hi all , i have the above named receiver on 75 mhz frequency , as i cant use it in the UK , just pay me P+P at cost to your destination and its yours .I can't test it , so i cant say if it works , antenna wire is only 2" long by the way LMK []
  14. Hi Stuart, thats great thanks for the reply.I would like a copy of those English instructions .Those wires are still connected on the msc but just open ended / taped over and not used..I have fitted a battery eliminator switch by soldering a fly lead into a patch lead which i also made to lengthen the battery to msc wires as the msc main red and black wires are very short [:^)] and the connector sits over the resistors and kind of fouls the driver part when the body shell is fitted, it all works ok , but i might alter things if i can read up on it all with the English instructions .LMK if you can spare those instructions , i'd be most gratefull , regards ,Kev the Rev []
  15. Ok ,but I'm no millionaire and I look at it this way .If i'm doing a lot of parts / body stripping , i can put all of the parts into the tub , let them soak , work on them all in one go .How much are cans of oven cleaner or other products?.I have had this gallon of fluid for about a year already, and have stripped many bodies ,drivers, and the like and i can continue to use and reuse it for as long as i want, i call it long term economics .Works for me , but each to their own i guess. []. Have you tried asking at a local garage or the like to see if they have any used fluid you can have?
  16. Even though it can be messy , i still stand by the brake fluid method, although it does absorb moisture over a period of time , it is still effective as a paint stripper ,I have a gallon container which i keep the fluid in a pour it into a tub which sits in a black bin bag to stop any spillage.Once the shell or part is stripped the fluid is filtered back into the container ready for the next job [Y]
  17. There has been a few new Scorcher bodies for sale on Ebay over the years , either new bodies or complete body kits, but as you say they do command good money.There has also been a few new bodies with slight damage, still worth a go .My advice to you would be to restore your original SS body and either buy good used 'bolt on ' parts like mirrors etc and restore them , or use good repro parts if you're not a purist.Once completed you would be back as good as new - or as near as you could get without buying new that is .If Tamiya did re-release the SS the price of the original would possibly fluctuate for a while , but then many collectors would once again be looking for the original and hence the prices would be set again.Since the release of the Hi lift 3 speed , i have seen an increase in the number of wanted ads for the original Hilux etc 3 speeds. I guess like most things even Tamiya goes full circle in the end.Good luck with the restoration []
  18. I've sorted out the setting up and running part , but i still dont know what the 3 small wires do , the red the blue and the white ones , anybody know?
  19. Hi there, thanks for the reply , since posting this , i've had a sort out with it , stuck the boot in a few times and Bobs your uncle - sorted.Seriously though , i had a good look over things , had a major clean up of the plates and contacts, ( it was new in box) a bit of adjustment here and there,switch lubed it up and its cool.The only thing is these 3 wires [] the instruction sheet that came with it refers to them in depth, but as it is in Japanese , i cant read it [:'(] , but the pics show different options of hooking it up to a 6v battery / switch and such via these 3 wires- a bit of a mystery , but they could possibly be to accomodate a BEC switch to eliminate slinging the battery pod under the deck, but i'm not doing anything until i am sure what they do ,and i do want it to be as near original for the fun of it ( i took off the esc i had fitted on it to fit this original nib speedo) .It seems to work fine without them connected to anything , so its leave well alone i guess.Once again , i thank you for your help[]
  20. Does anybody know what the 3 small red,blue and white wires are for on the 5172 Super Champ speedo, also are there 3 speeds on this speedo as i can only get 2 , ,seems like 2nd and 3rd, cant seem to get the 1st slow gear, the adjustable slow speed resistor bar doesn't seem to be doing anything.Any ideas anyone? .All help greatly appreciated []
  21. Hi all ,i just bought a new 5172 speedo for a Champ. The manual shows the basic set up of this, but in the Japanese instruction sheet that comes with the speedo, there are some references in Japanese to the other 3 open ended red, white and blue wires that are also connected to the speedo?.As i cant read Japanese and there are no references to these wires in the Tamiya manual , i was wondering what these are for ,and do i need to do anything with them?.Are they for some king of battery elimination?.The diagrams how these wires hooking up to a switch and /or battery options ,other than the main supply battery.Confused? [:S] any help greatly appreciated []
  22. Thanks Clyde ,i'll check it out []
  23. I bought a £20 airbrush kit from Hobbycraft , it is ok ,but very limited as to what it will do [:^)] , good for detailing i would say , but i think i will stick to conventional spraying methods for a full body shell []
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