KEV THE REV

If I win the lottery , I'll buy the lot - very nice models

Great work . the gearbox looks mint

Plenty of cleaning and rubber replacement etc will go a long way . The threadlock can be melted / softened with heat to remove the bearing , a heat gun or similar should help but you need to move the bearing whilst it is hot

Cool . I've restored one of these and it is very satisfying - look foreward to seeing the pics of the strip and build

I've got the same Absima kit and I use extra flysky receivers and they bind easily to the Absima TX . As said previously if you have the steering end point dial on the TX you need to set that for each car

My wife already posted that up

Can't see anthing wrong with that . I guess we all did it ? - or just us 2 ? Here's one of my old haunts

You too eh ?

That's why I use tape . I can measure & draw the whole item and plot the hole centres then centre punch the holes to get an acuate position before drilling

I would have bought it but I'm set up now , thanks guys :)

Totally agree with all of that - except my Halfords is a whole 4 minutes away from me

Coming along . When I make things from alu sheet I cover the area I want to cut out with masking tape , this helps to measure & draw the item and protects it when cutting / drilling / filing / using vice etc

Generally I only use auto paints , never had any problems . I have had custom colours mixed by specialists in the past

There are some 3D printed repair parts available, like this for instance :- https://upgradeparts.com/2020/07/17/tl01-replacement-front-shock-tower/ I would go with fabbing up my own alu plates across the front and back of the tower

Any pics of the damage ? . If it is cracked ,you could try strong styrene glue and drill drough the screw hole and use a nut and bolt / washers and a sleeve instead of the self tapper step screw . I would carry out the same process for the other upper damper mounts too to relieve stress

Has anyone got 2 halves of the pipe clamps ( one full clamp ) that don't have the pins , ie damaged , that you want to sell or swap ? or just 2 halves that I can modify ? buy / swap etc UK only cheers

Well nerd away everyone , but then who isn't an SRB nerd anyway Before and after clamp mod , Much smoother action

So I tried this out . For a basically as close to original rear damper fitting that is smoother than original I drilled out the clamp / roll bar inserts to 3mm , then openend up the roll bar holes - which are 3mm up and down but narrower in width - sort of eliptical , then bolted a long M3 bolt through , M3 washer to space the damper top away from the clamp ( might need a thicker washer to clear the coil-over collar , but this only bring the damper more upright which also good . ) and this puts it in a more upright position which is smooth in operation whereas before you could feel the bind on compression as the damper rod was out of line and under sideways tension due to the positioning and I think this where a lot of the leaks came from right from the start b.i.t.d . , premature wear on the brass insert and seals .The last pic shows the damper in what will be the new postion with the mod done .

As I was assembling my latest chassis, I was thinking of a solution to get the rears more upright . More tinkering with the clamps etc I think later

Great solution to the rear dampers . I have always thought the rears lean too far out of line to work smoothly and with no ball sockets etc they aren't in the proper alignment . Your 3D mount is what Mr. T should have designed in.

I must add a BIG thanks to Grumpy Pants , jonboy1, and Tamiybigstuff for their help with parts on this rebuild , cheers guys !!.

It's all doable if you have the parts and adapt a bit here and there , sounds like you're on the right track . The SS front post could be raised up ( not sure by how much) with a bush that fits in the servo saver and a longer bolt - job done

Very tasty . I like the FX10 best out of the Striker / Sonic / FX10 stable . Always nice to see a vintage new build too

The Ranger front post is longer than the SS . The rear roll bar is lower and more square with a hex fitting on top for a pin through the rear deck . If you go with no cut out in the deck I'm not sure the stock Ranger set up would let that happen due to the switch position on the radio box . I haven't got a Ranger here to check , but without a swich fitted it might fit under the rear bed with no cut out , maybe someone with a Ranger could check . The Ranger body fitted onto the Ranger roll bar with some lugs molded to the Ranger deck underneath and a pin through the top . The Blackfoot body doesn't have those lugs so that would need to be fabbed up , I have seen a 3D printed fitting to fix to a BF rear deck to achieve this . The SRB camber can be altered by means of bending the torsion bars to reduce the neg .The OG SS manual shows this as a 'tweak' . You could remove the torsion bars and fit coilovers though .