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KEV THE REV

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    Radio receiver

    in General discussions

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Raptor1410 said:

    Hi, can anyone tell me if i can pair more than one reciever to same transmitter please. I have an absima srs2 2.4 ghz and want to run a few cars with same transmitter. Would this be possible. 

    Many thanks

    I've got the same Absima kit and I use extra flysky receivers and they bind easily to the Absima TX . As said previously if you have the steering end point dial on the TX you need to set that for each car

    ABS bodies - what non Tamiya paint have you used?

    in Build Tips and Techniques

    Posted

    11 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

    I almost always use Halfords own brand automotive paint.  I'll use Tamiya fine primer if it's a nice new body, but Halfords plastic primers work well on older bodies that I'm reconditioning.

    I like that Halfords paint works better than Tamiya in lower temps, and the can doesn't need heating to get a fine spray, it's way cheaper per litre than Tamiya, one can is enough for anything, and there's a great range of genuine automotive colours and lacquer finishes - but what I mostly love is that Halfords is a 2 minute drive from home, opens late in the evening and keeps great stock.  Perfect for that last minute "now, let's paint a body" moments.

    Totally agree with all of that - except my Halfords is a whole 4 minutes away from me ;)

    • Like 1

    TL-01 shock mount

    in Vintage Tamiya Discussion

    Posted

    Any pics of the damage ? . If it is cracked ,you could try strong styrene glue and drill drough the screw hole and use a nut and bolt / washers and a sleeve instead of the self tapper step screw  . I would carry out the same process for the other upper damper mounts too to relieve stress

    SRB question?

    in General discussions

    Posted

    So I tried this out . For a basically as close to original rear damper fitting that is smoother than original I drilled out the clamp / roll bar inserts to 3mm , then openend up the roll bar holes - which are 3mm up and down but narrower in width - sort of eliptical , then bolted a long M3 bolt through , M3 washer to space the damper top away from the clamp ( might need a thicker washer to clear the coil-over collar , but this only bring the damper more upright which also good . ) and this puts it in a more upright position which is smooth in operation whereas before you could feel the bind on compression as the damper rod was out of line and under sideways tension due to the positioning and I think this where a lot of the leaks came from right from the start b.i.t.d . , premature wear on the brass insert and seals .The last pic shows the damper in what will be the new postion with the mod done .

    20220517_180927.jpg

    20220517_180948.jpg

    20220517_180907.jpg

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    SRB question?

    in General discussions

    Posted

    On 5/16/2022 at 8:52 AM, jonboy1 said:

    do these help?

     

    Copy of File_000(1).jpeg

    IMG_1115.JPG

    The coilovers were some RC4WD items that I think are heavily copied and available on ebay from many sellers now. They fit perfectly on the front but are too long for the back. So I made a 3D printed mount for them to position the top further up the roll bar. That said, I think I worked out you could do it with a lightly modified rear cage/damper mount turned 90 degrees, pointing out.

    Great solution to the rear dampers . I have always thought the rears lean too far out of line to work smoothly and with no ball sockets etc they aren't in the proper alignment . Your 3D mount is what Mr. T should have designed in. 

    • Thanks 1

    SRB question?

    in General discussions

    Posted

    It's all doable if you have the parts and adapt a bit here and there , sounds like you're on the right track . The SS front post could be raised up ( not sure by how much) with a bush that fits in the servo saver and a longer bolt - job done

    SRB question?

    in General discussions

    Posted

    The Ranger front post is longer than the SS . The rear roll bar is lower and more square with a hex fitting on top for a pin through the rear deck . If you go with no cut out in the deck I'm not sure the stock Ranger set up would let that happen due to the switch position on the radio box . I haven't got a Ranger here to check , but without a swich fitted it might fit under the rear bed with no cut out , maybe someone with a Ranger could check . The Ranger body fitted onto the Ranger roll bar with some lugs molded to the Ranger deck underneath and a pin through the top . The Blackfoot body doesn't have those lugs so that would need to be fabbed up , I have seen a 3D printed fitting to fix to a BF rear deck to achieve this . The SRB camber can be altered by means of bending the torsion bars to reduce the neg .The OG SS manual shows this as a 'tweak' . You could remove the torsion bars and fit coilovers though .

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