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scollins

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About scollins

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  • Birthday 09/13/1972

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    Fond du Lac, WI USA

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  1. Amazing job Paul, really glad to see how well this turned out for you! EXCELLENT
  2. Wow, just fantastic! Very much a cool project for sure, recreating a childhood Hot Wheels toy into an R/C car, such an awesome idea and great results Paul! Mad skillz bro!!
  3. My latest Kyosho build, turned out really nice! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=135148&id=5414
  4. Hi there, TC member scollins here. I just noticed your post. I would be willing to help as I have done this several years ago for another TC member that could not get TamiyaUSA to ship parts to him. My only requirement is that I will not order any parts for anyone (not even my brother, lol) until the money hits my Paypal account. My only other requirement is that you do not expect this to happen in record time, it will take a bit. Between my work hours, receiving the order from TamiyaUSA and getting the package shipped out it is a bit of time, so I hope you can be patient. I'm a bust Dad of two kids with lots going on over here in Wisconsin, USA. But I have a feeling that this can be done within a couple of weeks. I've been on this site as a member for a long time, so I would really like to see you get what you need for your friends project. Please PM me to get details on what you are exactly needing and we can go from there.
  5. Sorry, I have been trying for two days in between work hours to get this figured out and I have been completely unsuccessful. Ive researched my Google account and checked setting, etc. It seems I cannot upload image URL's from my Google photos anymore like I did last year. So I have given up. Back to posting my entries exclusively on my Showroom posts. Not what I wanted to do, but it always works there. My apologies. s.collins
  6. Some photos of the magnetic body mount setup in the back, and the upside down body posts up front. The posts up front are screwed in with very tiny screws from the top, posts ground down to the proper angle to match the inside curve of the shell, then secured underneath to an aluminum bracket to stiffen them so they do not "walk around" when trying to line them up with the front bumper. The aluminum bracket will eventually be double-side taped to the underneath of the shell for extra stiffness in conjunction with the small self tapping screws holding from above. When the shell is painted I will go back and fill in the heads on these small screws and paint them so they nearly disappear. Bumper was drilled out to accept the posts with adjustable collars in place. Body clips will clip in from underneath. On the magnet setup, I will JB Weld the magnets in place underneath the aluminum formed sheet, and up above is the metal bracket with posts that drop into the same aluminum part for extra security. I shimmed it by gluing a strip of polystyrene to the underside so that the bracket tips at the same angle as the decklid on the body. The end goal is to double stick tape this metal bracket with short posts to the underneath of the shell. This overall method will prevent the magnet from being the only thing locating the body out back and it will be very secure.Cant wait till this is finished and it looks clean. Its been a long time since I built a project with concealed body mounts, only one other time have I done it. I think that this body deserves the extra mile.
  7. Adding a final layer of black paint is not really necessary, but would make it look a bit more tidy I suppose.
  8. Today I posted on the TC forums under the Kyosho section on a Ferrari project,,,,it has been months since I posted anything and it felt refreshing to do so.............Also cleaned up the workspace after arriving home from work today and dug out another project I've had in mind,,,1970 Mustang. Have to finish the Ferrari 250 GTO first though. Another contender for being built is my NIB Tamiya Cobra Mustang TL-01 kit.
  9. @ Yalson- Unfortunately I sold the Porsche 906 on eBay a couple years ago and really had a bad experience from a difficult buyer. It was horrible, looking back I wish I just would have kept it, it was so much work to restore it to this level. The body was absolute trash when I started.
  10. It's been ages for me since I had the time to get on the TC forums and show some of my work. Additionally I am finding the only hours available to work on R/C projects have been the late hours during weeknights, or some limited time here and there on weekends. Ten years ago, I had a newborn son and a 1.5 yr. old son and had the same situation, lol. I've been trying to get my 11.5 yr. old son and 10 yr. old son in the shop building with me but they are not as interested as I would have hoped. But, on the upside they do still both love Legos and the younger one has interest in building static models so I can't complain. And they both like to drive R/C cars and trucks....so hopefully someday building will be in the mix for them too. Tried to get a build thread going her but have had no luck in two days of trying to get pics to upload properly. Update: Recently re-posted the pics on my Showroom entry instead as I have had too much trouble getting photos to load correctly from my Google albums, and Flickr, etc. Apologize for this post on the forums. s.collins
  11. Hi JohnSinclair,,,,,,,,, I have not been on the forums in a long time. Apologies for my late reply but I hardly get time to do actual R/C projects anymore so getting on the TC forums to answer a question or two is truly rare. The material is standard woven fiberglass cloth that can be purchased at most auto-parts stores,,, or if you prefer a business that sells auto-body supplies. My technique involves gluing down the fiberglass matte cloth with either CA (and then kicker to instantly "set" the CA glue) or.....I glue down the corners of the fiberglass cloth with CA glue first and then use conventional 5-minute epoxy to smear over top of the cloth, allowing it to soak in. Either way works, using the epoxy is a little more conventional,,, but lately I've been relying on CA glue as it is available in different thicknesses thin, medium, thick (viscosity) The biggest thing to know is that you should have your lexan paint job properly backed up with silver paint, or white (or either followed by black) so that the fiberglass and glue patch has no chance of revealing itself thru the first coat of paint applied to the inside of the lexan shell. Hope this helps, s.collins
  12. Wow,,, impressive looking kit Paul! Surprised it does not cost more money given the level of content and features. I've been away for a bit on the forums- its been hard to keep up!
  13. Very cool collaboration!!! Nice work fellas!! Speedy Gonzales to the rescue - what a nice gesture to share his efforts and time and support a fellow modeler like this!
  14. Thanks all-- I just realized I won the TC Boxes Competition that was put on right before the Christmas Holiday...I'm PUMPED!!!! Thanks to those who voted for my entry!
  15. Great work going on here guys (Grastens-Speedy),,,I've been away from this thread for a while but it had my interest in the beginning! I'm anxious to see the end result.
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