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Live Steam Mad

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Everything posted by Live Steam Mad

  1. For "fun racing" vintage buggies on a "DIY" "track", or modern buggies on a BRCA etc. track, or just general "bashing"? If it's the 1st option then I'm interested. I'm in Moss Bank, St.Helens. Best Regards, LSM
  2. I wish that the tracks of today were say 1/2 or 2/3 of the way between that track on Punky's show and what they are now, in terms of size. And wish that the rostrums were only elevated by 2 feet at maximum. Kinda like we used to race with at Earlestown with Harvey at Boats and Bits model shop at Newton-Le-Willows. Tracks of today are IMHO too big, I have trouble seeing the cars properly from 15 feet off the ground and 50 yards away from them. And the cars go wayyy too fast for me to cope with as everyone seems to want 3 turn motors and bullet fast speed. Not that I'd bother going to a modern track unless it was for vintage RC buggies with very mild motors in them... it's just not my scene, just my 2p worth. Regards, LSM
  3. I just found the Kyosho commercial office at ;- Kyosho Corporation, 1-9-3, Hirakawacho, Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo, Japan 35°40'54.63"N 139°44'30.46"E ...the same one as is shown in the first few seconds in that Youtube video that I posted in 1st post here. You can have a Street View of it in Google Maps / Google Earth and it looks like this ;- https://plus.google.com/photos/101932667412801910198/albums/5857186033839719313?banner=pwa Cheers, Alistair G.
  4. OK I just got hold of the "Import Fighter" advert from (so I read) RCM Magazine of April 1985 (not RCM and E or the Australian one, the USA one instead. Actually I got mine as just the bare advert of 2 page spread taken from the magazine, I didn't get the rest of the magazine with it). It shows the box art of the RC10 very well. I took a photo of the Isuzu Mu in the 1993 Tamiya Radio Controlled Guide Book, for the orange as a reference, and had the Cadillac box and the Import Fighter ad in the same picture so you can see what the orange is like for matching the box art. My box may be faded a little, the orange on the RC10 on my box is certainly a lot lighter than the orange in the RC10 in the Import Fighter ad. The orange in the ad is very intense and a little dark. https://plus.google....1009?banner=pwa Still however looking for the "Car Radios" ad of Futaba Corporation of America from 1984 showing the box art car in the bottom right of the ad. Anyone know what magazine it was in (which issue) ? http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=15897&mode=view Cheers, Alistair G.
  5. I PM'ed Qatmix, who replied and told me "it was acrylic motor paint from a car shop like halfords. It was my Dad who mainly did it. I was a plastic primer, you can then layer a std grey primer on top." I remember using the standard primer from Halfords a while ago on the inside of a PolyStyrene body (not PE) as a test and it etched itself into the body! The Halfords primer that said it was for plastics didn't etch, and I seem to remember I still have some. Will try it and see how I get on. Got the 2nd Frog (my runner) to finish first though, I'm half way done on the body on the 2nd Frog. Cheers, Alistair G.
  6. Sorry but the edit post system seems to have changed all of a sudden and everything went nuts and quotation marks screwed things up etc. And it added a double post? My mistake? Seems I'm not great with the new forum system unless something has changed? PS something is going on with the TC message system as well, it's like the formatting is screwed up or something? Or is it just my PC / Firefox that has gone wrong?! A.G.
  7. Qatmix mentions here ;-http://www.tamiyaclu...06... If you want to paint a HB shell just use Auto paints.. I have a shell thats 25 years old and it still hasnt flaked... and it was bashed hard (it has no roof to prove it) I wonder what was meant by Auto paints ? Would this be 2 pack Epoxy (very dangerous, I doubt it) or the kind of spray can paints for painting over scratches that I see in Halfords? And what primer is used? Acid Etch primer (that is usually used on bare steel car bodies before painting)? Or a different one? Or no primer? Cheers, Alistair G.
  8. Hi Andy, I replied to you almost straight away via Email (since it arrived in my Outlook Express inbox) and not the TC PM system, I just assumed you got the message, but apparently not? In which case I'll now PM you. Cheers, Alistair G.
  9. Hello Mark. Just had an insulting e-mail pretending to be from you. I deleted it in a second after reading the first 2 words without looking at the rest! I could tell it was from the same person and not from you. Best Wishes, AG.
  10. Oh well at least I'm not the only one who has had them. I've had 4 last year approx. and one again this year. Can't Chris (the owner of TC) do something about this? Would it be very difficult to stop this happening? Cheers, AG
  11. Hiya Max, it's great to hear from you I was very, very glad to hear that the insulting message wasn't from you. And if anything it's made me more proud and happy to be a member of this great forum of like minded people where we do our best to help each other out. If anyone gets a message from me with uneducated, poorly written text, and personal insults then please be aware that someone is impersonating me. In case this happens, my advise is to go straight to a moderator and report everything before you do anything else. One day this smart **** will be payed back with interest by life, it has a way of happening that way. Good Karma to everyone out there in Tamiya land, Cheers, Alistair G.
  12. Well some good news, the TC member in question wrote back to me and was very nice about it and said that they didn't use the words in the e-mail to me, it wasn't from them. Thank Goodness. Unfortunately it seems TC is open to troll attacks from anonymous users. We will all have to keep an eye out for this and help each other out. And to the person who seems to have a vendetta against me (which is odd since I am a poor peasant with no money and even less practical skills and tries to be humble when looking at the great works of others and is only trying to do my best) then I hope they get what they deserve in life. I have found out over the years that life has a funny way of paying those back who have been nasty to me. Be careful out there and Play Nice! Cheers, Alistair G.
  13. Well this one appears to be the correct primer for PE, from Rust Oleum ;- http://www.rustoleum...uct.asp?pid=119 "Rust-Oleum Specialty Plastic Primer Spray prepares plastic for painting with any top coat. Apply directly to plastic mailboxes, lawn chairs, storage lockers and more. Adheres to hard-to-paint surfaces." And for those of us in UK ;- http://www.rust-oleum.eu/english Cheers, Alistair G. [spam posts moved here; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=68890]
  14. Henk4Focus posted here ;- http://www.tamiyaclu...06 "It doesn't stick at all. Used Tamiya plastic primer after a huge sanding job, but still the slightest nick and the paint flakes of. The flanks are the main culprit here. I'll have to get a second shell as a runner and this one for show. So wish I could say that the primer made the paint stick." ...so at least Tamiya plastic primer and sanding doesn't work. But I wonder whether the flame treatment works. Joe Anderson didn't mention whether the paint flaked off on his after the flame treatment after running the car. I don't think anyone else flame treated the whole body like he did yet? Or if they did has anyone got a link to it? In the meantime I'm looking into using PE formulated paints. Cheers, Alistair G.
  15. Thanks for the info, I wasn't yet aware that other owners of the HB find that the paint flaked off after running the car, after the body had been sanded properly first. Or did they not do the sanding first, and / or not use PE paints? In which case, I can understand it. This is my first ever HB shell and I am not familiar with the effects of painting PE shells yet. I need to read up on this. If anyone has any useful links then that would be great. In the case that the paint flakes off after sanding it (to provide a key), after running the car, then maybe the flame treatment would keep the paint on sufficiently? Has anyone else than Joe Anderson tried to flame treat the body and then paint it and then tried running the car as a mild "basher" to see if the paint flakes off ?! I'll take a look at PE paints next and see what they say on the container concerning preparation before painting. Cheers, ARG
  16. Yes I have been told the same (I'm not going to reveal how it's done of course). However the worrying thing is that the e-mail address itself looked worryingly real. However there were some inconsistencies towards the end of the message. Can't say more. Moderators are looking into it. I sent the message back to the TC member concerned asking them if this was sent by them. If it's genuine, I will be requiring a personal appology. Not for the methods used on the HB body (which are open to constructive criticism of course) but for the personal attacks, which are NOT permitted and can result in a permanent ban from the site. Thoughts occur ;- 1) It's rather cowardly to send me the criticism via PM 2) Why didn't the TC member concerned simply reply here with the criticism, MINUS the personal attacks, and then it could have been a positive thing to help everyone. Instead they stoop to this kind of stupidity. I do hope it was only an insane troll. In which case I will simply not bother to read anymore messages from them and delete them instantly of course. If anyone else gets something which is personally insulting, please inform the TC moderators. Don't let it go unreported. Cheers, Alistair G.
  17. Well I have just been sent a rather childish personal message with personal attacks regarding my methods with the HB body and the person who sent it has been reported to the moderators since it breaches the terms of use of the website and can result in a permanent ban from the website. However maybe the sender of the message will be man enough to admit the wrong doing and appologise and I will leave it at that. The sad thing is that it came from a known TC member who is well known here for a long time. Always dissappointing to see this as it's something that I would not stoop to personally. Note that I have revealed no names. So far, at least. Cheers, Alistair G.
  18. Sure Max, my pleasure, here's some pictures of my work so far ;- https://picasaweb.go...ToThePolyEthene Joe Anderson the Tamiya employee did an article (link below) to show us how to alter the molecular structure of the surface of the PolyEthene plastic that the HB body is made from (both original and re-re are >PE< ) so that the glue is able to successfully bond to the PE body. Also you MUST use glue specially formulated for PE like the one I show here that I bought recently from Ebay. The way that you alter the surface of the HB body to accept the glue is by use of FLAME TREATMENT . However, although you might think that this is completely mad, it does actually work. I don't know if it's the heat of the flame that does it or the PLASMA of the flame (I strongly suspect the latter), so e.g. I don't think just a hot air gun (paint stripper) would work. Otherwise wouldn't Tap plastics on the video on that web page linked to above just tell you to use a paint stripper hot air gun or a hairdryer? But I just don't know for sure about that yet. Joe also mentions that in order for the paint to be able to adhere well to the body (despite using special PE compatible paints where you can) he believes that you have to also flame treat the WHOLE BODY (!). The problem is that without an e.g. Bernzomatic propane torch with Flame Spreader attachment (available only in USA it seems, item code TS1500KC for the torch / gas can kit) that TAP plastics shows in their video, I don't think this is going to be possible with e.g. my cigarette lighter, since it would run out of gas (unless I buy a refillable lighter and a can of gas from the Newsagent shop). http://www.tamiyausa...?article-id=475 My friend Jon H. has a propane torch (Sievert) for Model Engineering but it's run out of gas (30 GBP for a refil from MESAS / North West Gasses here in St.Helens), and I don't think you can get a flame spreader for it? Any way the flame / plasma treatment (using a cigarette lighter) seems to have worked on my HB body, the glue has set overnight and is now about as hard as normal cured Epoxy and I tried to remove a little of tiny "runs" of glue that got spilled past the hole by accident with my fingernail and it wouldn't come off, despite me pressing quite hard. So it looks to have worked. But I was very thorough indeed with my flame treatment Now I am left with the problem of flame treating the whole body to accept the paint. I will need a gas torch with a 1 1/2 inch flame spreader, that I can buy in Europe, and around approx 25 GBP (60 USD) at the most. Any ideas?! Unless Joe is wrong and you only need the flame treatment for the glue only, and you can get a decent paint finish that will be fairly strong just by providing a "key" for the paint to grab onto by sanding the body (which I suspect is the truth). So worst case scenario I now just sand the whole body with P800 or P1000 and then paint it with a PS (Tamiya PolyCarbonate) spray, or a Tamiya Acrylic sprayed on? Cheers, Alistair G.
  19. Well I tried the glue and didn't bother to rough up the surface (since you are only adhering to the inside walls of the 2 holes) and just cleaned instead with IsoPropanol then applied the masking / painter's tape underneath the holes to support the glue, then mixed it with an old Copydex plastic spreader and then applied it to the holes to fill them. The glue took ages and ages to even start to go off, and a couple of hours later is only just starting to go to the consistency of a firm gum. So it's like 24 hour instead of 5 minute Epoxy. At least it should be stronger than it would have been then (since 24 hour Epoxy is stronger than 5 min stuff). Make sure to mix this glue in exactly 1:1 ratio, it's rather more sensitive to this than usual Epoxy, I found, i.e. the glue doesn't cure properly if you don't add quite enough hardener. I'll see tomorrow when I take the tape off and start sanding, if it has actually worked. Or if it comes straight off. I must say I wish Tamiya had of used PolyStyrene for this body like they usually do, i.e. something you can bond to. If anyone has an idea for a cheap gas torch with a flame spreader attachment then I'd love to hear it since I might end up having to heat the whole body in order to get the paint to adhere to the PolyEthene. Cheers, Alistair G.
  20. Right, the blue Holiday Buggy body arrived today from jadlamracingmodels.com and I saw it said "PE" in the shell and copyright 1980 -2010 Tamiya. I went looking for a butane torch to flame treat the surface and didn't see one that was easy to obtain or that had a good review in the UK so I ended up just using a Ronson cigarette lighter from Tesco (one of the cheap coloured ones in a pack of 3 I seem to remember) and I twiddled the little switch on the front of the lighter to make the flame to it's fullest, then I waved it backwards and forwards over the hole (NEVER letting it stay in one place) and the hole's surroundings, each pass lasting 1/2 a second, and I did 5 passes then let it cool, then did another 5 passes and then let it cool again, then another 5 passes (3 lots of 5 in total). Then I went around each hole edge with 3 lots of 5 passes again. Then the same on the underside of the bonnet around the holes. Then the disposable lighter ran out of Butane! But at least I have 2 more. I found this out by cutting off the scrap from the roof section (the X shaped part that you have to cut out) and using the lighter flame on it and finding that one leg of the X had water beading on it, whereas the flame treated leg had the water go straight into a sheen (water film) without the water beading. When I put some water onto the body with a finger tip the water now beads on the places that are untreated and goes into a sheet where it has been flame treated. Now to try the glue that I bought! Cheers, Alistair G.
  21. OK solved this by getting "Mr Sticky's Poly-Bonder Polyethylene Polypropylene HDPE Plastics Adhesive Glue" from Ebay for 10 GBP, see ;- http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57259&st=775#entry479543 Cheers, ARG
  22. I just picked up a re-re HB body in blue (not the red one) from jadlamracingmodels.com for 16 GBP, using my 10 per cent discount (because I previously got a Lunchbox body from their Ebay store) and then got some "Mr Sticky's Poly-Bonder Polyethylene Polypropylene HDPE Plastics Adhesive Glue" from Ebay for 10 GBP, and I am going to attempt the filling of the holes in the HB shell ;- http://www.tamiyausa...?article-id=475 (scroll down) Apparently this stuff is the same as Tap Plastics Poly-Weld (Tap plastics also sell the Mr.Sticky's brand). Unfortunately it WILL need flame treating. So I am buying the mini-butane torch as recommended by a person who was trying to repair a 1 inch crack in a water tank of HDPE (High Density PE) (the HB body is PolyEthylene / PolyEthene, you can't glue to it with any other adhesive than a HDPE glue AND it the surface needs treating with flame's plasma before use of the glue), the torch being a "Butane Pencil Torch Harbor Freight Item # 41169", well actually I'll be buying an equivalent since I am in UK. Also, any pencil torch that I get will need a "Flame Spreader" attachment so that it doesn't melt the surface, just "flame treat" it instead. Don't know if the Harbour Freight one has that as an option. Edit: solved the flame treatment issue, see ;- http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59593 Cheers, Alistair G.
  23. Great to hear. Be warned about the Nail Polish Remover (NPR) though, it might well not be real Acetone (if in EU) and instead might be NPR substitute, with a way different chemical formula. So if you try actual Acetone it might dissolve Styrene (never tried it with Acetone before). Test on some scrap first (e.g. a piece of wing from a Blitzer Beetle / SS2010 body that you have maybe clipped some of the wings off, which is quite a popular thing to do around these forums LOL). I remember one incident where a friend of mine (long dissappeared from TC) applied some Cellulose Thinners onto some paint he had applied to a Blitzer Beetle body and left it overnight... only to find the next morning that the only thing left was a black puddle on the floor... be careful out there! Oh yes and whilst I think on, the other thing that works without harm to PolyStyrene bodies is Tamiya brand Lacquer Thinner (no other brand), it strips paint very well indeed but stinks (so open all your windows or use outside) and evaporates VERY fast (so don't leave the bottle open, just apply a little to a cloth), I got some from Hong Kong (off Ebay). It stripped a Styrene original SS1979 body of it's gold metallic paint (no other thing worked on it) without any damages to the shell. Cheers, Alistair G.
  24. Paint usually comes off with either acid or alkali. When Caustic Soda (alkali) doesn't work on the Styrene body, try Parma "Fashine" (mentioned on these forums before a few times), it's an acid and also strips certain types of paint quite fast. It worked great on my RA1028 Hilux body when Caustic Soda didn't. It does NOT harm PolyStyrene / Styrol resin bodies. Cheers, Alistair G.
  25. I just recently bought some re-re Bruiser tyres from Jason's store on Ebay and they arrived today. They are 101 grams weight, versus the Blackfoot tyres from my NIB original Blackfoot are 111 grams. The rubber smells quite similar but subtly different. The new ones still say "ALL TRACTION UTILITY" and have the very thin ring around the top side of the lettering just like on the original Blackfoot tyres. The tread pattern is identical as well. The molding on the new ones is crisp and good quality. The rubber on the new ones is very similar to my NIB Blackfoot ones, i.e. only midly "sticky", but actually still a little plastic-like instead of rubber like for my liking. Satisfactory though I suppose. At least now I can have one Blackfoot for the shelf and one for running, now as I have 2 sets of tyres. Cheers, Alistair G.
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