big_dave

The rush motor is a machine wound motor and isnt constructed as well as the binary......could it be possible that the rush motor just cant handle the current thats going through it?

Yup this was the first thing i did.......nothing seems to be binding because i rolled it down a 2% downgrade......and if something was binding the whole motor would probably heat up instead of jus the endbell, thank you for your input []

i dont know anything about nitro....but in my mind i wouldnt want fuel coming from my exhaust or leaking when idling....i hope someone can help you out......i know what youre goin through

Thanks [] i will give this a try.....but there must be something else wrong too because when i ran the brand new team orion rush 11x2 it did the same thing as the older epic 9x1 would you happen to know the problem to that then too?

i cleaned it with a comm pen.....how do i cut the comm? also, i used a brand new team orionrush 11x2 to see if the same thing would happen and it did same exact thing as the binary2...and remember the rush motor is brand new

You can overcharge nickle cadium batteries try charging the one that doesnt work right more than once

Ok, ive been using a Epic Binary2 9x1....it ran fine until i switched brushes.....the brushes that came with the motor were soldered on to the endbell, after about 12-15 runs they were worn out.....i didnt know how else to get them off except to cut them..... so i cut them off and theres still solder and some brush wire left on the endbell...so i went and put the new brushes in my motor..and it ran fine for about 3 mins then slowed down drastically....the endbell was extremely hot..but the rest of the motor was at normal heat.....i took a look at the brushes and after the first run they were already black/pink/purple/blue (discolored due to heat)......???????? would anyone have a clue as to what the problem is?

yea the accidents i would be extra careful if i was going to do it......like i would have one of my friends race my car while i was in his ........im gonna get a epic 6turn single wind and use it with a 38-40 .04 pitch pinion see what kinda speeds i can hit just gonna have to watch blowing the motor though

I was just wondering if anyone has ever raced their tamiya race chassis against a real car......maybe in a quarter mile or so.....i guess if you tune your car right it might very well be possible to beat a car []

yea i kinda wonder when i will ever get my 32 and 33 tooth pinion gears that i back ordered from there........it says the stock status is "ordrer pending" but its said that for like 2 weeks

Not that i know of. Im sure you can find a Esc out there with limited slip though.

Hmm i didnt think of that that ........which way do you think they are rattling? back and forth or up and down or both? I would think most likely back and forth

One of my relatives broke his TA04-R tub completely in half when he lost control and hit a slanted curb/ramp, sent the car flying through the air and smacked the bottom very hard off a rock also broke his motor's magnets and then his esc caught on fire because of heat build up and burnt his body up. [8)] i felt really bad for him. By far the worst R/C car wreck i have ever seen

When i use my M-03L chassis whenever i turn the wheels about 25 degrees to the left or right the car starts shaking violently with what sounds like some sort of grinding noise but its hard to tell before I start guessing what the problem is and trying to fix it does anyone know the exact problem?