Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About pl212

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Haven, CT
  1. @Hibernaculum, any chance you'd do a write-up of the LaTrax on your excellent site? I know this particular thread is ancient, but my curiosity was piqued when I noticed this buggy in a 1982 Sharper Image catalog:
  2. Great work! Would you consider sharing these, perhaps as a torrent, so that others could regularize their collection? Wonder if there are some copies that have better audio or video, that might benefit from combining streams from two different files...
  3. As a 959 owner I’ve been interested in these too, but I recall the consensus in the forum was that the additional strength of these metal parts would just transfer stress to other plastic parts, including those more integral to the body and difficult to replace. Curious what folks think...
  4. Tower has put a pre-order online for $204, expected late June... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNRD&P=7
  5. For those in the States, Tower has it for US$99, available late March: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNRE&P=7
  6. Wasn't there a thread many years ago where folks discussed who the announcer was? I recall that it was disclosed he had passed away (not surprising given the time period here). Was he an employee of Tamiya USA?
  7. Based on a tip from this page on RC Car Action, I tried cutting the overspray mask around the driver and painting that area white. Looks grim during the process... ...but after removing the mask, it's all good: I've tried out the included driver-area stickers for now, but just can't see them lasting very long. They're trying to cover highly irregular surfaces. I'll probably do some hand-painting once they inevitably fall off or get dirt stuck under them.
  8. Happy to find another car in which I can use the $$$ Tamiya LF Battery LF1100-6.6V Racing Pack (M-Size)!
  9. Agree; I ended up putting unused metal bushings -- three of them -- under the front mount to push it up, instead of the two thin washers recommended. I used those washers instead in the rear which otherwise would have had nothing to elevate it. I do find the body required a lot more "tweaking" than I was used to, having only built Tamiya kits before. The window treatments, for example -- yours look great, and clearly imitate the way the box art is, rather than using the included stickers to simulate the netting. It's not clear if you're supposed to cut all the windows out, or cut just the areas between the sidebars and paint them black, or leave the windows in place and use the decals...? Another area of confusion is the shell around the rear shock mounts. The instructions don't really indicate how much should be cut out, and how far back? I had to cut at least a small area away past that, or else the rear suspension will collide with the bottom of the shell. Overall I'm very impressed with the RC10, especially when running it. But I find that building a nice example is hampered by the fact that many AE/RC10 fans don't seem to take the modeling/scale aspect as seriously as the Tamiya fan base, which results in a lack of well-finished models to look at online for guidance. Yours is an exception of course!
  10. What's odd to me is exactly how the doggone binding is caused, or fixed, by the various screws holding the metal rods in place. I have been able to fix the problems by following the advice above (pull the arms outwards, tighten the inner screw first) but am trying to understand if the problem is originally caused by: 1) The rod holders turning due to the screws being tightened underneath, or 2) The rod holders being pulled too far down due to the same. Put another way, what exactly does pulling the arms outwards ensure when tightening the screws?
  11. So on the original gold-pan re-release (not Worlds Car) -- anyone else find the stickers / decals to be absurdly thick? Rather impossible to get them to curve around the body at all. They're so thick, in fact, that I'm not sure the hairdryer trick would work...
  12. I have these LiFE batteries and the accompanying charger: I'd bet that $15 universal balance adaptor would do the trick, if they explicitly claim Tamiya LiFE compatibility. Pity the photo is so low-rez:
  13. I remember Price Club (later merged with CostCo, another warehouse club store) had the Tamiya Frog as a bundle -- this was with the standard Futaba/MRC gear and battery. Didn't know ACOMS had a US presence via Radio Shack/Sharper Image...
  14. Interestingly these seem to be surfacing on US eBay for around $20, clearly parts of a kit that would otherwise be discarded. At that price they're a pretty good deal...
  15. Great find... no doubt a re-badged Futaba, but for those of us who prefer two-stick transmitters, an intriguing option. Tamiya doesn't import any of their wheel/trigger Adspec/Expec/whatever systems into the US, so it's interesting to see this show up on TamiyaUSA. Of course it will probably be prohibitively expensive, and who knows what separate receivers will cost, or if they'll even be available? I have just settled on a mix of premium and bargain electronics for my cars: Tamiya 105 ESCs, because they have LiFE cutoff (which I run) and BEC, and are available for about US$25 on eBay. These are paired with the bargain-basement HobbyKing two-stick 2.4ghz setup, because the transmitter is under US$30 and more receivers are under US$6 each (!). From this picture it seems you'll be able to use either 4 AA batteries or hook up a rechargeable pack: http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/490/7255252/gallery_14.jpg
  • Create New...