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Posts posted by RedFrits

  1. Finally I have a chance to own a Avante. After the re-re of the Hotshot I got my old vintage feeling bakc as af I never had before.

    I understand that for some colelctors this will be 'disapointing' but on the other hand, a NIB original Avante will keep it's worth.

    For me, I am standing in line to pre-order at different sites!!

  2. Thank you!

    That makes sense. It will be a runner, and I'm not too bothered about the looks on this one, so a alu plate will do the job then.

    It will be nice to see how it handles when finished. I remember it as a much better offroader than my 959 back in the '80's, and it gave me hard times in Tamiya Cup races back then. I think I will put in a brushless setup to get this heavy thing moving.

    Again, thank you!

    I would definitly put in that alu plate. My experience is that without the support the old ABS plastic will crack at the first jump. You can test it by holding the front and back of the chassis and twist it, you will see the movement it has. So, when you mak a plate, also check the widht so it gives some axial support over the length of the car.

    So, treat your old Bigwig with 'love' :D


  3. Questions,.

    Are the wheel-arches pre-cut on the shell?

    What's the kit like to build?, I tried looking for the manual but had no joy!.


    - No, the wheel arches are not precut, you will need scissors to cut them. Here is a little hint to help you. If you wrap sandpaper around that carton from a toilet roll, you can get a nice smooth finish.

    - The kit is easy to built, if you just use it for slow driving I wouldn't bother to get hopups. If you want them, here you go: http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/default.php?cPath=75_115

    Look at mine, I painted also the wheels to get a more accurate look:


  4. Here is a great link I found which explains it in a little more detail: http://www.geocities.com/agusyt/OneWays.doc

    Please let me know if you need more info or photos of my one-way installed..

    Hope this helps.


    Hi Dan,

    Thank you for the explanation. I already have a oneway frontdiff and reading the article made me doubt purchasing a center oneway. Here is the part that made me doubt


    The presence of a front diff, however, makes the center one-way somewhat of a compromise between having no one-ways at all and the aforementioned front one-way configuration.

    Does the writer mean that when you have a oneway frontdiff the advantages of this are minimized by placing a center oneway??



  5. DB01 is a sweet car, the most common assembly issues with it are either diff problems (either back to front assembly or not tight enough), or people finding it too difficult to get the kit machine screws screwed into the hard plastic.

    - James

    Building it gave me blisters on the inside of my hand actually! It was a pain getting those screws in. Some grease did the trick for most...

    The belt is pretty solid, I did not expect that. Only thing is that due to the diff melting my belt got damaged/worn. I replaced it alerady and it runs smoothly again.

  6. Note the 'twisted' arrow, and the details on the diff joints in the assembly instructions. It's a bit vague and easy to miss, but it's telling you to turn the diff over at this point before you follow the instruction to put the diff bolt through.

    If you forget to do this and build it with the bolt back to front, the diff will 'undo' itself and ruin itself as you've seen.

    - James

    Well, actually I did not miss that one. It was mounted correctly so that was not the problem..

    I think it was just not tight enough...

  7. Thanks for the info!

    Does anyone know where I can get Delrin pulleys for the DB-01 (Tamiya nr. 84051). I can not find these available anywhere. It's the pulley for the balldiff. and Delrin seems much tougher than the standard plastics used.

  8. Hi all,

    I took my DB-01 out for a bash at my friends farm (nice area to bash) and suddenly I heard a strange noise. When I took my DB-01 up and gave it some trothlle, only the front wheels where turning and I heard a stranger noise than the 1st one I heard.. Keep in mind that I drive a Mamba max 7700kV with a 19T pinion.

    Since the weather was nice and I had the time I dismounted the rear diff and this is what I saw:

    How can I prevent this? I can not find delrin pulleys for balldiffs?!



  9. 2; I think that it's the 5mm led's that you need to use.

    I sorted it out, should be 3mm. But thanks for the aswer ;)

    Okay, I placed the order!

    - Toyata Hilux (58397)

    - Futaba Skysport 4YF (with gearplate)

    - Futaba (#MC330CR) FET Speed Controller

    - 3Racing LED system

    - additional LED's

    Now I have to see how I am going to paint the thing. I got a paintbrush system from Revell from my girlfriend, maybe I should experiment with that.....

  10. Hi all,

    I'm thinking about purchasing a F350 (58397). I realise that you need a 3/4ch system, which I will be ordering as well. Additional, I want to but the TLU-01 LED system

    I have two questions:

    1) Do you need to use the MFC? I have read somewhere that shifting gears without this MFC can cause problems. This MFC is US$ 260,- and I think it is a LOT of money....

    2) I want to put in some LED's using the TLU-01, which is meant for touring cars. What kind of additional LED's (dimension) do I need for the Foglights on the roof. Are these 3 or 5 mm??

    Thanks for your help!!


  11. Thanks for all the responses!

    Looking further in the matter has shown me that indeed the wheelbase is different, so fitting the body on the TL-01 would make it a challange..

    Okay, since I do not want to own too much models, I think I will put my TL-01 up for sale. It is completely hopped up with 3 additional boddies. I throw in my TL-01B since I do not use that anymore. This way I have enough room to put a TT-01E on the shelve :rolleyes: .

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