spetz
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Posts posted by spetz
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What about boring the carby, and the middle of the crank? just to get more air into the engine?
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What is the disadvantage of soft suspension arms? Besides the fact that they may break in a collision?
Or does it ruin some geometry?
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How do I get more power from an engine? OS MAX 15 CVR
I heard porting it can get power? But I also heard it's just hype and actually makes you lose power?
Any mods to the engine itself to get more power? I got a header and pipe
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How good is a TGX?
Is it competitive towards other cars?
How does it's handling compare to some of the better cars out there?
Is it worth spending money on or is it mostly a toy?
And with a OS Max 15 engine (36,000 rpm max), and 2 speed gearbox, how fast approx would it's top speed be?
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What effects towards handling are there from adjusting this?
By adjusting I mean moving it up or down to the hook up point on the chassis.
It's the arm that you control camber on
I noticed that if I move it further down then when the springs are compressed it increases camber, so I assume it should be good for handling?
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I live in Canberra, A.C.T
Should I change bearing? The odd thing is the engine is relatively new. It spins relatively easy but not completely smooth and free spinning like other bearings.
The people at the shop said it's fine to use, and once it's lubed up (from the petrol) it should be fine as it's an open type bearing
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The inner bearing (inside the crankcase) does not move too smoothly but it has no oil. I was told by the local hobby shop it should be ok and piston/liner is fine.
They said it was just too hot/lean so the inside part of the conrod broke.
Ordered the part in, was $22 AUD or so, looking forward to racing the car again.
If the engine goes completely (and hopefully it doesn't as it only had about 3-4 litres through it) I will get one of those Nova Rossi engines, they said they go hard!
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In real cars you can raise CR and get some more power and higher revs.
How is this with the little nitro engine? Can I take out that metal washer type that sits between the engine and head to get higher CR and get more power?
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I opened up the engine.
You are right, it was the conrod that broke. The bottom part of it where it connects to the crankshaft split in half and the brass bush inside it went into pieces.
Nothing seems to have hit the piston, but the piston is not 100% like new. Does that matter? It just has the tiniest imperfection but I am worried that it might just go completely from high revs as it may go onto the cylinder sleeve.
Anyway, the top of the piston is all black which I assume means I have been running it too lean. Which I assume is also why the conrod snapped like that?
Also, on the head of the engine (the cooling head) right on top of the piston it has some scratch like markings. How did that get there? What is it from? The engine is always run with a filter and I keep it clean, I find it impossible for anything to have gone their and scratched it, or is this just normal wear and tear?
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I think I just siezed my engine.
I cannot pull the recoil starter. I was driving it and all of a sudden it switches off very rapidly and can't pull it now. I will open it and make sure though.
Why would it do that? I think a bit of the piston or something went flying. I took the rear driveshafts out and it was only running on 2 front wheels, with lot of wheelspin. The engine didn't overheat as when I put something wet on the head it slowly evaporated (did not hiss or boil).
I assume I can just buy new internals and rebuild this engine? It's an OS MAX 15 CVR or something. It was a pretty expensive engine and I don't want to throw it out
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I installed the 2 speed gearbox to my TGX.
It doesn't go into 2nd gear. I know this as top speed is now slower than the stock single gear.
The spring on the 2nd gear clutch is fairly loose and should be engaging, everything has been followed to the specs of the manual. Any reasons why and what I should do to rectify this?
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So what do people recommend for a TGX Tamiya rally car?
The springs in it seem really soft.
It used to understeer too much, now it is running a rear swaybar and it's turning in much better.
I was thinking of stiffening the rear with springs, and have some softer springs at the front (softer than rear, stiffer than stock) and run swaybars both front and rear. How does that sound?
At the moment it's not really bottoming out or anything as I only really drive it on smooth surfaces, but you can see the car rolling in corners and the front lifting/back squatting during acceleration, so basically it is quite soft
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Is there a benefit to progressive springs on an R/C car?
And is the hardest setup for the least body roll the best? (Considering you have one side softer that the other depending on your car, ie stiffer rear for better turn in/less understeer)
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Ok I will tune the low end first them install the 2-speed gearbox.
After that it should be a lot better as 1st gear in the 2speed gearbox is shorter than the single gear it comes with stock
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So what is their benefit?
Would there be any advantages of my taking my undercrowl off and putting them on?
I never take it off-road anyway, it is always on-road
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I've seen in some pics that some TGX's have some sort of flaps from the bottom chassis deck in front of the rear wheels. My kit came with the flaps but in the manual it didn't say to install them, can anyone tell me what they are for, and if there is any benefit putting them on?
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The problem is not that the clutch engages too late, but rather once the revs go up and it engages they fall down because it's too hard to move the car off the line.
I do believe that the low rpm is too rich (I never tuned this part). But I am going to install the 2 speed gearbox in (thanks to instructions from a member) and will see how it goes.
Thanks for all the help

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The OS MAX engine is the one with the black head and a sliding barrel carby. It says 1.2 BHP in the manual for it.
The car has full bearings everywhere
The diffs are stock 3 bevel diffs, they work fine.
I clean the car and it goes fine, there is nothing mechanically wrong with it.
The idea with the clutch is good, a stiffer spring so it engages later...
The initial problem is that my friends cars has a center diff, so from a standstill it takes off (as it spins the front wheels and rpm are really high). It takes about 2 metres after standstill for my car to be ahead.
Also when the car has been idling for a while it's very lethargic to move away, I am assuming it is rich at the low rpm and the fuel/oil is clogging the engine
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How should I go about modding a TGX.Mk1 Tamiya?
So far I have put on it anti-swaybars, OS MAX 15 engine, header, and CVEC pipe mated to a 2 spd gearbox.
I am next thinking I will go with stiffer springs and shock oil.
What is next? I just want good handling and good power, not interested in expensive bits that only do minimal gains.
Thanks
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So it isn't recommended to buy one?
The motor I have is a 15 OS MAX. It has 2 needle controls and I run a CVEC pipe which has a piston thing inside on a spring for more low end.
The problem is that from a standstill as I floor it the revs climb and as the clutch grips they drop down and the car takes of slowly until it reaches some decent rpm where it flies off.
The car is a TGX rally car so it's heavy (2 kg or so)
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I understand these are designed for more low end to midrange power.
Can someone explain how this works?
And once installed, are the power differences significant enough to notice or too small to notice?
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E-mail recieved
Thanks heaps for the help

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Thanks heaps for that

Can you tell me if you had any problems with it?
I had mine installed at some stage but it never seemed to kick into 2nd gear.
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Does anyone have the manual of how to install the 2 speed gearbox for a Tamiya TGX.Mk1??
If someone could scan it and send it to me it would be great.

TGX Rating
in RC Racing Talk
Posted
I can upgrade to aluminium suspension arms.
Would this be a good idea or would the difference not be noticable?
I only ever race it on a track with a friend... nothing competitive, but I still like to enjoy a quick car that handles