Neil_S2000

I cut a large (at LEAST 2mm) gash in my thumb earlier today with some card whilst I was opening a pack of CDRs. []

Frogs are very collectable. Yes it would have been more collectable if you hadn't built it, but that doesn't mean it was wrong to do it. If it were me I would keep it on the shelf, and buy a used Frog as a runner. A new built Frog is still pretty rare!

quote: Originally posted by fastboy yes its possible..i anodise things myself at home but only smallish things like shocks and diff halves etc,try typing in "anodising" into msn search engine and loads will come up. i assume you want just plain colored anodising and not hard anodising? try here: http://www.mansfield-anodisers.co.uk/ dave id="quote">id="quote"> Thanks for the linkage. Yes just a colour change is all I'm after, it's an R390 and I want the chassis to match the body colour [] Scott, very funny [V][]

I have an Astute ball diff (53043) still new on the card, if you need pics let me know. The card only says it's usable with the Astute and Egress.

Does anyone know where I could send my TGX racing chassis off to have the colour changed from blue to red? Is this even possible?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...item=5930126969 Can't bring myself to build it so it must go to make way for something I feel less guilty about opening

Keep checking Ebay for the Boomerang, Hotshot, Supershot and Bigwig gearbox parts bag. One will pop up sooner or later.

This is why I think NIB Tamiyas will be very, very valuable in the future. People just can't resist building them, and eventually there will be very few left. I've got a mint NIB Madcap that I planned to build, but it pains me to break such a nice kit that has been that way for a good 15 years previously. I may yet do it, as ultimately that's a fun part of owning Tamiyas, but it will be a shame! If there were more new builts available for sale I would probably buy them instead.

Oh me me me, I want one of these! []

quote: Originally posted by beetlebanger do you know english ! id="quote">id="quote"> Do you know Dutch? If not you shouldn't really be posting comments like this! [] Some chassis have undercowls, perhaps you could adapt one of these to fit your own car? What car is it anyway?

It's not unusual to state the reserve price, regular non-internet auctions usually state the reserve in the catalogue and start lower - as has already been said I think it helps to get people interested. It is a bit strange though, especially when people put in the first bid at £1.00! [xx(][]

This is a well-known scam, not just limited to Ebay either. I'm a member of a real car website and the classified ads on that board have received mails like this, try putting an ad on Autotrader with an email address and you will almost certainly receive one or more of these mails. Most of them come from Nigeria or Eastern Europe. The sad thing is some people actually fall for them. Even if they send out 10,000 of these mails and only get one car out of it they have done very well....how hard is it to send a mail? The best thing to do is specify that anyone with 5 or less feedbacks mail you first, if anyone with less than that bids without mailing you, just cancel the bid.

I'm sure I saw a NIB Lunchbox body set on Ebay earlier today.....

I've just bought a TGX and it's on it's way from Japan now. I bought loads of hop-ups at the same time: 53242 Tamiya TGX Aluminum Engine Mount 53368 Tamiya TGX TG10 Aluminum Brake Arm 53207 Tamiya TGX S Steel Suspension Shaft 53377 Tamiya TGX Racing Chassis 53201 Tamiya TGX 2 Speed Transmission 53244 Tamiya TGX Carbon Propeller Shaft 53376 Tamiya TGX Carbon Upper Deck 53198 Tamiya TGX Universal Shaft Set 53245 Tamiya TGX Ball Differential I also have some TRF fluorine dampers to put on it. To be honest, anything you can do to lighten the car will be a benefit, especially drive-train components. Quality, adjustable shocks are always good. The aluminium engine mount helps cool the engine, universal shafts are more efficient and don't fall out [].

quote:Originally posted by TamiyaDanwell there are different grades of this alloy, but titanium is brittle when compared to the shear force of steel. tensile strength on titanium is double that of mild steel usually. on a blunt impact steel will bend with the forces, titanium, may crack or fracture. for impact areas its recommended you stick with steel, for less prone areas you can save weight and switch to titanium or aluminum. a screw usually has a smaller diameter then a hinge pin or a turnbuckle, with such a small area a crack or fracture is more likly to occur. we are taking about a 3mm diameter that has been cut to half that when turning a screw. I have seen titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles shatter like bones in a hard crash, as well. but given the amount of material in a hinge pin or turnbuckle and usually its a higher grade alloy its less likly to occur. the problem is the time wasted in trying to remove a broken screw from plastic when the head has snapped off. i'm just trying to show that weighed against shaving a few grams off a car for the cost of 40$ for a set. if your a REALLY good driver this is a non issue if you peg the boards constantly a titanium screw is really not a good idea. id="quote">id="quote">Interesting stuff - thanks! Perhaps I'll hold off getting ti screws on my TGX until I get used to driving it []

quote:Originally posted by TamiyaDanbe careful with the titanium screws tamiya offers 1) you don't want to replace every steel screw with a titanium one. Titanium can shatter in an accident and the screw can sher off the head and leave the body in the plastic a real PAIN to fix. only replace non load bearing screws like ones holding on a sway bar, or shock tower. leave the steel screws on the bumpers and front and back bulkheads where they attach to the chassis. the idea is that in an impact the most likly area to hit first will absorb enough energy as to not crack the titanium screws. nothing is worse then finding out a titanium screw broke then when the head torques off during maintanace. 2) tamiya doesn't offer every size exactly. example they make a 3x10 titanium button head and countersunk screw but not a 3x8 or 3x12. don't think you can get away with replacing a 3x12 or 3x8 with a 3x10 it can cause damage with the screw going through a plastic part, or be a touch too short and backout in an accident ruining a bulkhead. 3) tower hobbies has good pictures of some titanium screw sets. follow this link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI00...L=++&search3=Go you should be able to shave a few grams off your car but remember to look at the cost of using titanium. id="quote">id="quote">Then they must use low grade titanium as good quality titanium has a higher tensile strength than mild steel. I would also expect the plastic to give way before the screw.

Tamiya sell 10 packs of titanium screws in various sizes, just look at your manual and find out what sizes you need. They sell titanium double-threaded shafts too.

quote:Originally posted by The SlayerOnly if its Cellulose [8)] Good idea this - can we have one on how to make some money [] speaking as an unemployed person with no income at all now []!!!! id="quote">id="quote">I can do you a guide. Just send me £50 and I'll tell you The Willy painting guide is excellent, looking forward to reading some more.

quote: Originally posted by nickseab I totally agree m4f, it's very annoying to never get a reply, even if it's just to say "no thanks". I also cannot stand it when people use "text" speak in emails etc... Anyone remember in the (UK) news a while back, the girl in a school that submitted an entire assignment in "text" - I personally found that to be indicative of the degeneration of our society and loss of our culture and language, which is a very sad thing indeed. (Just what I think.) id="quote">id="quote"> Totally agree very sad, and the above email also shows how socially retarded some people are that they think they can send mails like that and get a response.

Declaring true values is a false economy. Working on the principle that not every parcel can 'go missing' on the journey over (I'd put the worst case scenario figure at perhaps 1 in 10, more likely much higher for USA-UK transactions). So let's say you buy 10 models at £150 each and declare the value as such. As per Chris's post about he was charged 66% in C&E charges, so let's call it £90 in charges, total £240 each, that's £2400. One of these goes missing, so you receive your £150 back with no charges to pay, so that's £2250 you have paid for 9 models. If you had declared a £30 value (this is about the limit for C&E to claim taxes), and marked it as a gift (remember these are toys so this is entirely plausible, not to mention that 'gift' is a fairly loose term), you would have escaped charges and paid £1500, even if you lose a model and it isn't insured you have still paid £750 less. If it is a rare or very expensive model then maybe it is worth insuring, but for the sake of £150 - no way. Oh and if you are worried about the legalities, well, buying goods second hand means there is little or no audit trail of the transaction. You can simply say that that was the agreed price, and there is nothing anyone can do to prove otherwise, even if they know that the object in question is worth 10 times the declared value. Just keep your Ebay account to yourself