Jump to content

Mountain

Members
  • Content Count

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Mountain

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    5899
  1. I use Traxxas Revo Driveshafts for mine as well after the same happened to me. I am running twin HPI 550 motors at 14.4V so there is a fair amount of torque going through them. I haven't had any more problems with them and if I do its a quick and cheap fix. I am having more problems with the rear gearbox poppings its top mounts I used the HPI drive shaft grub screws as they are the right length for the shafts when they go into the centre drive shaft and they just tap straight in.
  2. The ESC you mention should work fine with the stock motors. If I were you I would get it going with the bits you have just ordered and see how it handles. The TXT-1 under power tends to have quite a lot of chassis twist because of the torque created, it lifts its front left wheel a lot. Not sure how it would handle brushless depends on the specs of the motors. People have done it. I have have a TXT-1 with HPI 550 motors and an MTroniks Super E truck ESC and its great, runs very nicely on 14.4V. The battery packs will sit side by side if you use a strap rather than the original battery holder.
  3. +1 for the TXT-1 as well. I have had both trucks for some time and whilst I had a Clod back in the day and recently a Super Clod the TXT-1 is definitely a more capable truck. Its more like a proper monster truck than the clod and the build is good. You can also upgrade easily to 14.4V and then you really do a get truck that flies. There is a clear bodyshell included so you can paint it whatever colour you want. Yes clod has more after market parts but again it all adds to the cost so depends entirely on what you want. One thing to watch is when putting motors in the clod one should be a reversed motor. Standard stock motors are fine but one ones with advanced timing will need to be reversed for one motor otherwise it will effectively be going in reverse which is slower and drawing more load on the batteries. Whichever truck you go for make sure you get some decent bearings before your build as it was make the trannies run so much smoother with longer battery life.
  4. Make me an offer. I do have a shell which is in good condition for my TXT-1 which will fit the E-Maxx. I put it on last night and it actually looks really good with it.
  5. You are looking around the £25 -35 mark for shipping on a rough quote I did. Depending on who you used and I would have to check if the insurance was adequate. Here are some photos. Please note it has my Revo wheels and tyres on as I didn't get chance to change them. It will come with standard e-maxx wheels and tyres. If you want any more then let me know. It needs a bit of a clean from the mud I was driving on the other day but is otherwise working fine.
  6. I have a used E-Savage runner and and E-Maxx 3905 16.8V that I am thinking of selling to raise funds for a new project. The E-Savage is in good condition and has been upgraded to include a MTroniks Super E Truck ESC and Savage Black Springs. This improves the handling considerably. The radio gear in it is Acoms as I prefer stick radio. Comes with somes spares including a complete diff. The E-Maxx is in good condition apart from the bodyshell as it requires a new one. The previous owner fitted an aftermarket roll cage to it and this unfortunately has caused more issues than it solved and has split the body at the rear posts. It still fits on but it would require a new one. I also have replaced the motors with HPI 550 as they give slightly more speed. Otherwise it is as stock. I do have batteries for both (7.2V 4500mAh and 8.4V 5100mAh) that I might let go as well for the right price. I am after funds towards something brushless but won't sell unless a sensible offer. Offers please. Pictures on request.
  7. I am also running a TXT-1 with twin HPI 550 and an MTroniks Super E Truck, managed to do the upgrade for £50 (new parts) Having said that managed to shear both my universal drive shafts so they have been upgraded to Revo. Nice thing about the Super E truck is its waterproof so it really does like the mud and the torque on those motors is great. Found that with the power the cable ties kept slipping down. The solution to this is to put a smaller tie round the cross bar at each side and loop the normal one through it so they hold it other in place on the corner. Not had one move since.
  8. Did think the production run last that long though. The original clod was released to the UK market in what must have been 1986 I guess. Interestingly the original container of Clods for the UK got nicked on route to the distributor so they nearly didn't make it for Christmas. It made it on to Crimewatch I think. Fortunately there was another shipment and so I did get on that Christmas after all They probably only made one run of Chevy badged ones as I am sure the replacement body I got when I rolled it down a cliff didn't have it. Not quite sure what you mean. Yep there is a premium for the Chevy clod as to whether its worth or it not, is up to the individual. It comes down to rarity which like always adds value. I currently have a body kit on the bay for sale, that's an original 1987 one. Its got a high price but ones have gone for similar amounts and I am expecting an offer to come in lower. (Can't afford to let it go for silly money as I bought in for quite high price in a moment of nostalgia. The value seems to be like the stock market up and down.
  9. What clod bits were you after? Am interested in, why are you getting rid. Is all working otherwise?
  10. Yep I guess they do have quite a big tread. Doesn't seem that much bigger than the standard but what the badword Anyway I don't really want to glue them as they probably aren't the best tyre for what I need and even then on the worst two there is a 3mm gap between the two halves where they haven't been aligned correctly in manufacturing, I suspect I will still have problems. Its the only tyres I have problems with as I haven't glued some other cars at 14.4V and they don't wobble What would people recommend are the stock ones ok?
  11. I have a Clod which I took down on the beach and in the sea near my in-laws in Christchurch. Anyway to cut a long story short I didn't get time to clean it or wash it off so as you can imagine some bits of it have rusted quite badily. I can buy new parts but I wondered if there is a chemical that I could use to remove the rust as it seems only to be on the surface. I got the salt off with vinegar after an intial wash in cold water didn't work. I am quite willing to try anything (within reason). Its mainly the suspension and the exposed screws that suffered, the gearboxes seem ok. Any suggestions.
  12. Are you sure they are yellowy? The part number for them is 2000049 which comes in a number of kits including the Egress (its one of the only ones not to be Ti) and Clod and all the ones I have are silver and they are brand new. (None of my yellow ones have gone silver (maybe rusty). The 3x10mm could be mistaken as the 12mm and that is yellowy as is the 3x15mm. I thought Tamiya did this so it was more obvious it was a different screw and you wouldn't be wondered why it was too short/long.
  13. They don't expand like some tyres and they also have foams in so its less likely to expand. Don't really want to glue at the moment as I am not keen on the wheels and might get some beadlock ones. My clod tyres balloon at 14.4V but they seem quite well balanced at that speed. Guess it depends on the quality of tyre. Even at low speed just turning a few revs over you can see the wobble.
  14. Not glued yet but you can see that the two halves don't line up very well so guess thats the problem. I have other tyres that balloon at speed but nothing like the vibration with this. Stock shocks are there as I haven't got round to getting any better ones but it does work fine with them.
×
×
  • Create New...