Mountain

I use Traxxas Revo Driveshafts for mine as well after the same happened to me. I am running twin HPI 550 motors at 14.4V so there is a fair amount of torque going through them. I haven't had any more problems with them and if I do its a quick and cheap fix. I am having more problems with the rear gearbox poppings its top mounts I used the HPI drive shaft grub screws as they are the right length for the shafts when they go into the centre drive shaft and they just tap straight in.

The ESC you mention should work fine with the stock motors. If I were you I would get it going with the bits you have just ordered and see how it handles. The TXT-1 under power tends to have quite a lot of chassis twist because of the torque created, it lifts its front left wheel a lot. Not sure how it would handle brushless depends on the specs of the motors. People have done it. I have have a TXT-1 with HPI 550 motors and an MTroniks Super E truck ESC and its great, runs very nicely on 14.4V. The battery packs will sit side by side if you use a strap rather than the original battery holder.

+1 for the TXT-1 as well. I have had both trucks for some time and whilst I had a Clod back in the day and recently a Super Clod the TXT-1 is definitely a more capable truck. Its more like a proper monster truck than the clod and the build is good. You can also upgrade easily to 14.4V and then you really do a get truck that flies. There is a clear bodyshell included so you can paint it whatever colour you want. Yes clod has more after market parts but again it all adds to the cost so depends entirely on what you want. One thing to watch is when putting motors in the clod one should be a reversed motor. Standard stock motors are fine but one ones with advanced timing will need to be reversed for one motor otherwise it will effectively be going in reverse which is slower and drawing more load on the batteries. Whichever truck you go for make sure you get some decent bearings before your build as it was make the trannies run so much smoother with longer battery life.

Make me an offer. I do have a shell which is in good condition for my TXT-1 which will fit the E-Maxx. I put it on last night and it actually looks really good with it.

You are looking around the £25 -35 mark for shipping on a rough quote I did. Depending on who you used and I would have to check if the insurance was adequate. Here are some photos. Please note it has my Revo wheels and tyres on as I didn't get chance to change them. It will come with standard e-maxx wheels and tyres. If you want any more then let me know. It needs a bit of a clean from the mud I was driving on the other day but is otherwise working fine.

I have a used E-Savage runner and and E-Maxx 3905 16.8V that I am thinking of selling to raise funds for a new project. The E-Savage is in good condition and has been upgraded to include a MTroniks Super E Truck ESC and Savage Black Springs. This improves the handling considerably. The radio gear in it is Acoms as I prefer stick radio. Comes with somes spares including a complete diff. The E-Maxx is in good condition apart from the bodyshell as it requires a new one. The previous owner fitted an aftermarket roll cage to it and this unfortunately has caused more issues than it solved and has split the body at the rear posts. It still fits on but it would require a new one. I also have replaced the motors with HPI 550 as they give slightly more speed. Otherwise it is as stock. I do have batteries for both (7.2V 4500mAh and 8.4V 5100mAh) that I might let go as well for the right price. I am after funds towards something brushless but won't sell unless a sensible offer. Offers please. Pictures on request.

I am also running a TXT-1 with twin HPI 550 and an MTroniks Super E Truck, managed to do the upgrade for £50 (new parts) Having said that managed to shear both my universal drive shafts so they have been upgraded to Revo. Nice thing about the Super E truck is its waterproof so it really does like the mud and the torque on those motors is great. Found that with the power the cable ties kept slipping down. The solution to this is to put a smaller tie round the cross bar at each side and loop the normal one through it so they hold it other in place on the corner. Not had one move since.

Sorry me having one of those moments

Did think the production run last that long though. The original clod was released to the UK market in what must have been 1986 I guess. Interestingly the original container of Clods for the UK got nicked on route to the distributor so they nearly didn't make it for Christmas. It made it on to Crimewatch I think. Fortunately there was another shipment and so I did get on that Christmas after all They probably only made one run of Chevy badged ones as I am sure the replacement body I got when I rolled it down a cliff didn't have it. Not quite sure what you mean. Yep there is a premium for the Chevy clod as to whether its worth or it not, is up to the individual. It comes down to rarity which like always adds value. I currently have a body kit on the bay for sale, that's an original 1987 one. Its got a high price but ones have gone for similar amounts and I am expecting an offer to come in lower. (Can't afford to let it go for silly money as I bought in for quite high price in a moment of nostalgia. The value seems to be like the stock market up and down.

What clod bits were you after? Am interested in, why are you getting rid. Is all working otherwise?

Yep I guess they do have quite a big tread. Doesn't seem that much bigger than the standard but what the badword Anyway I don't really want to glue them as they probably aren't the best tyre for what I need and even then on the worst two there is a 3mm gap between the two halves where they haven't been aligned correctly in manufacturing, I suspect I will still have problems. Its the only tyres I have problems with as I haven't glued some other cars at 14.4V and they don't wobble What would people recommend are the stock ones ok?

I have a Clod which I took down on the beach and in the sea near my in-laws in Christchurch. Anyway to cut a long story short I didn't get time to clean it or wash it off so as you can imagine some bits of it have rusted quite badily. I can buy new parts but I wondered if there is a chemical that I could use to remove the rust as it seems only to be on the surface. I got the salt off with vinegar after an intial wash in cold water didn't work. I am quite willing to try anything (within reason). Its mainly the suspension and the exposed screws that suffered, the gearboxes seem ok. Any suggestions.

Are you sure they are yellowy? The part number for them is 2000049 which comes in a number of kits including the Egress (its one of the only ones not to be Ti) and Clod and all the ones I have are silver and they are brand new. (None of my yellow ones have gone silver (maybe rusty). The 3x10mm could be mistaken as the 12mm and that is yellowy as is the 3x15mm. I thought Tamiya did this so it was more obvious it was a different screw and you wouldn't be wondered why it was too short/long.

They don't expand like some tyres and they also have foams in so its less likely to expand. Don't really want to glue at the moment as I am not keen on the wheels and might get some beadlock ones. My clod tyres balloon at 14.4V but they seem quite well balanced at that speed. Guess it depends on the quality of tyre. Even at low speed just turning a few revs over you can see the wobble.

Not glued yet but you can see that the two halves don't line up very well so guess thats the problem. I have other tyres that balloon at speed but nothing like the vibration with this. Stock shocks are there as I haven't got round to getting any better ones but it does work fine with them.

I have a set of Imex G-Hawg tyres for my Wild Dagger and they don't appear to be very well balanced. I am running it at 14.4V but when I get above a certain speed the tyres wobble/vibrate uncontrollably to the point it looks like it will shake it self apart. Also when driving its actually lifting the worst tyre of the ground and I only have the stock shocks. Running without tyres and the wheels seem ok and its quite good at drifting on the carpet\wooden floor. Does anybody have any experience of these tyres, have I just got a bad set (I got them in a deal with the car) would I be better off getting some stock tyres. These tyres would seem better for crawling as they grip very well, so if anybody wants to swap then that would solve it. They have only had one runs so are like new.

Sounds like the resistor has gone (or the wiring to it) so if you replace it should work ok again and you will have low speed again. They should be fairly cheap to obtain or if you have one you aren't using it you can borrow it from it.

After finally getting my TXT-1 sorted with some MTroniks Super E Truck with HPI550s @ 14.4V and 4WS I was ready for some serious bashing. (I managed to get it used and it seemed to be in pretty good condition) I went on holiday to Scotland and decided to take it with me. The only problem I didn't take any spares with me (not that I have many for this truck) Its a great truck and great fun to drive with 4WS. I took it out on an abandoned dry ski slope which it had no problems going up and down even though its got be a really **** terrain and steep. The first damage came the next day when I took it out on some not bad terrain and managed to break the front bumper mounts at the point where the lower link connects to it. When one link goes then it becomes slightly difficult to drive. So I did some in the field repairs and moved both links forward. What a mistake to make this causes the front drive shaft to be short and on the next run, ping and the E clips popped off somewhere and the shaft came apart badly damaging one of the links. Not to be outdone I simply removed the front shaft so I now had a 2WD TXT-1 which is also great fun. Noticed that the shock ball connectors on the cantilevers were starting to come out so I glued them in. Next day I went out to a park which had roughly a 45 degree banking in it. After a lot of sideways driving it managed to get to the top only for it to go sideways and roll down the hill for about 10m or so. It was like watching it in slow motion and each roll it went higher in the air. Well that did a bit more damage losing me a suspension spring and retainer and bending one of the front cantilever rods and mangling the front anti roll bar. Not to be outdone I managed to get it back to at least working again albeit it 2WD. Then the worst thing happened we had 4 inches of snow and I only had a 2WD monster truck. Still it went out in the snow and was great fun although got stuck reasonably often with not having front tyres to pull it out of the snow. I was desperately thinking of how to get it 4WD but alas didn't have any parts and only limited access to any other hardware. Then I moved the lower links up to the weedy grey bits that stick out at the top and broke those on my first run with that. Also every so often the plastic links ends keep coming off. Anyway so the point of this ramble is what's best to do to eliminate these problems in the future Are the Tamiya original TXT-1 upgrades worth having e.g. Shocks, Metal Cantilevers, Bumper Is the lightweight chassis any good? Whats the best thing to make sure my links don't break in the future? Where can I get spares from it e.g. the plastic part trees and the links. I will try and post pics later.

I rebuilt it many times but no joy. If you loosen off the screw it would eventually come loose and fall apart. I believe the small metal collar was to blame and a possibly manufacturing defect. Sometime later (15 years or so) I acquired a Vanquish and a couple of other gearboxes with the ball diffs. All these worked fine so I compared them and there was no difference in the build or positioning of spacers etc. You should be able to fully tighten the screw and it still work as it did with the ones I have and that way it won't work loose. Yep I know thats the point of the the one way bearing but I hadn't realised that till I put in the car. I don't race my car use it more for general driving and if it gets stuck then 2wd reverse isn't too hot

Apart from upgrading the chassis to a new one has anybody got any tips for fitting two batteries into the standard Wild Dagger. I thought about enlarging the hole above the existing battery where the MSC resistor would normally sit but didn't know if it would weaken it too much. I have to fit an Mtroniks Super E Truck as well as radio gear somewhere. Ideally I want to be able to remove the battery easily without removing the shell but realise I might have to compromise on this. Any ideas?

I didn't realise it said that in the instructions. I have the Avante 2001 with the ball diffs and the centre ball diff and it handles great. I did try it with the one way in but didn't like the way it handled. When it braked the front wheels don't brake with the one way and I seem to remember reverse being 2wd only. I haven't tried it with the locked centre diff but my original ball diff didn't work I guess it would be similar to that.

There was quite a bit about it on this thread http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...p;hl=hpi+motors Most of us where under the impression they were neutral timed, but it turns out they are not. They are off by a little bit not that much but enough to notice. Have a look in that thread it tells all. Basically people have been using them with no real issues but they do have a health warning. They certainly are a lot more cost effective than the Traxxas ones.

The stock motors should be ok on 8.4V even probably 9.6V would be ok and you will get more speed. Pass on the ESC. You must have two identical motors otherwise your wheels will try and do different speeds which won't be good for them or the speed controller/batteries. Also they should be set to neutral timing (or one reverse one forward timing) as the more expensive motors have advanced timing. This basically means the motor runs faster one way than the other if it has forward timing. In this car one motor is reversed so both motors need to run at same speed. Most silver can stock motors are neutral timing except for the HPI 550 which have forward timing as I found out after buying them. The shock tower upgrades screw on to the existing gearboxes to take the longer shocks. Wild Dagger\Twin Detonator\Dual Hunter have identical chassis just vary in bodyshell and wheels.

I was servicing some Reedy Bad Maxx motors for my Wild Dagger and noticed that the motors only had metal bearings. Given the recommendation is to always ball race rest of the car is it worth doing the same with the motor. If so which type of bearing is best and anybody know a good supplier?

Do you know if the Traxxas Revo 3.3 Drive shafts will fit as I can obtain those fairly cheapily.