[WANTED - NIB Tamiya Porsche 959]

Thanks folks!

Would really like one from a TC member if poss. When spending that much it's important to trust those you are dealing with.

Gary

[WANTED - NIB Tamiya Porsche 959]

Bump.

Anyone?

[WANTED - NIB Tamiya Porsche 959]

Been looking for one of these for a while so if anyone is considering selling theirs please let me know.

Thanks

Gary

[M-Chassis endurance run]

If I can make the date, I'm definitely up for this and will buy a licence if necessary. I'll try and talk Spike (from Essex) into it. I can also promo on Iconic if you want.

J

Thanks John! You are a star! As soon as I have a fixed date I'll let you know!

Gary

[M-Chassis endurance run]

This sounds great and I could be interested if the date fits.

Do drivers need a BRCA licence? I assume, yes?

Ideally, yes John but not essential.

Be great if you can make it!

Gary

[M-Chassis endurance run]

Hi folks,

My local RC club track (Southend on Sea) are holding an M-chassis endurance run/competition in June/July 2014. The date is not certain yet.

Rules will be:

* Standard Tamiya M-chassis (M01, M02, M03, M04, M05 & M06).

* Race duration - 4 hours

* Number of drivers per team - between 2 and 4

* 1 car per team (if a car become unusable a second can be used with a penalty)

* Standard 540 kit motor

* Own choice of tyres but no bigger that 60d (standard M03-M06 size)

* Any body shell

* Winning team gets a brand new M-chassis kit!

* £5 per driver entry fee

We did a test run of this event back in November and it was a huge success. Everyone who took part enjoyed it.

Is there any interest amongst Tamiyaclub members for this event?

Please see club website home page for picture of the track (http://www.southendrccc.org)

We are a very friendly bunch.

Any questions please email me at garyn@post.com

Thanks

Gary

[loads of chassis wheels bodies cockpits cars ect]

PM'd

[Hard Body Paining]

Not sure who to suggest on this forum but there are bound to be a few people who could do it. If you don't find anyone on TC, you might contact Jon at RCS Graphic Worx http://www.rcsgraphicworx.co.uk He does custom shells for lots of people. I see him posting in RCTech.net often and much of the stuff he posts there is lexan but occasionally there is a hardshell. Good luck.

Thanks very much for the link. I'll pass it on!Gary

[Hard Body Paining]

If your friend ask you to do box art and you are over 15 or 16, I think you can do it and that is with out knowing much about you. Do it for free and get the experience. Get the good yellow tape, quanlity and proper size paint brush for details, know which paint layer goes on first and take your time. If you do muck it up, there is always the brake fluid to do over again. Unless your friend asks for special paint works like flames, skulls, clouds, patterns etc... than you need a pro or one must take some air brushing course before taking on the job. I think your friend asked you, which means you must be a better painter than he is.

Thanks for the compliment :-). I have already painted my own vingage SS shell and although it came out reasonably well I hated every second of it! I have always disliked cutting out and painting bodies. I love building and restoring the chassis though! The standard of my finish will not be what is required for his shelf queen. He really wants someting close to the XB version really. If I enjoyed doing bodies I could probably acheive a much better standard but that's just the way I am :-D!Thanks Gary

[Hard Body Paining]

Hi folks,

A freind of mine has purchased himself a Re Re Sand Scorcher and does not have the confidence to paint the body himself. He has asked me if I can do it for him but I am not capable of the level of finish he requires. The SS will be a shelf queen so has to look good.

Is there a UK member who would offer their services to paint the body for him? (He could post it to you etc). He will of course pay for all the materials used and the time taken.

Be great to hear from you if you are able to offer this service.

Many thanks

Gary (garyn@post.com)

[Southend-on-Sea (Essex) M-chassis]

Hi there,

Just thought I would mention that my local R/C touring car track is now racing a heat of M03/M03M/M03L & M05's each Sunday. We have been doing this for a while and we are now getting 8-14 drivers of varying standard each week.

Rules are not really a problem but in an effort to keep costs down for newcommers we prefer everyone to use the following:

* Standard kit silver can 540 motor.

* Any Speed controller

* Any body (prefer Rover Mini's myself though)

* Anything goes on shocks

* All tyres are fine (we generally use standard 60D on front and Super Grip 60D on rear).

* Any battery (Lipo's recommended)

* Alluminium Uprights are fine

* Ballraces and steel pinion are recommended

* Any radio and servo

* UJ's are fine

* Ball diffs are ok but not recommended (due to extra cost and on-going maintenance).

The club track is situated about 3 minutes off the A127. It's an outdoor track and is quite twisty and bumpy compared to most other touring car tracks. This makes it ideal for Mini's and close racing is just about guaranteed.

Lots of friendly members who will give help and advice (inc me).

Heats are 8 minutes long.

Please don't be afraid to ask any questions. My email is garyn@post.com. Alternatively please see the clubs website. http://www.southendrccc.org

Gary

[Need Help With Wild One Resto]

Thanks for the suggestion BeetleLover, The axle part is not damaged but always like to strip my cars completely before cleaning etc.. I think that on this occasion I am definately just leaving it in situe. However I still have the bigger problem of the sheered-off thread from the battery cover clip mount. I think I'l concentrate on getting that fixed and as you suggest, ignore the other two screws.

Thanks

Gary

[Need Help With Wild One Resto]

Hi Gary.

If you get really stuck I could probably remove the heads of the screws with my milling machine. a flat ended cutter won't wander around on the screw heads like a drill bit will. I'd have to check the capacity of my vice though, to see if it will open wide enough to hold the chassis (I'm assuming I can clamp the chassis in the vice on each end of the batteyr compartment. Of course, if you have access to a pillar drill and a vice you could try it yourself, you just need to find a tool shop that sells slot cutters / end mill cutters.

Sorry bud, have checked the capacity of the vice, and it's only 100m. Checked this against the length of a nicad and the chassis won't fit in it.

Thanks for looking. Very kind of you. The battery acid has made the screws set like stone into the plastic. Cannot budge them despite being able to get the screwdriver on to the heads fairly well. The worst problem is the one that has sheered off underneath. I'l just have to see if anyone at my model car club has somethibg capable of drilling this one with some accuracy. Doing it by hand has so far proved impossible.

Thanks again

Gary

[Need Help With Wild One Resto]

Thanks, very much for your replies.

Looks like I am going to have to be patient and use a better quality drill bit.

Thanks again.

Gary

[Need Help With Wild One Resto]

Hi there,

I purchased what I thought was a very tidy Wild One some months back. It is in virtually unused condition. Tonight I have finally begun stripping it down ready for a clean-up and rebuild. I noticed that there was some damage to the area of the cahssis which houses the reciever pack. No-doubt due to battery leakage. I cannot remove the two screws which hold on the rear arm mounts (only on one side thankfully). The 'body' mount which holds in the battery sheered off leaving me with a nightmare. I tried drilling the three remains but I keep slipping plus the plastic starts to melt.

Please see pics below. Anyone have any ideas as it would be criminal to bin an otherwise perfect chassis .

As you can see from the second pic I have started to make another hole as I kept slipping off the remainder of the mount.

Thanking you in anticipation.

Gary

[Mud Blaster Runner]

Many thanks for all the kind assistance.

The ideas have given me plenty of food for thought.

Having never really run a car with this chassis I wasn't at all sure of its pitfalls. I think that the screw through the diff is a very effective mod.

Like the look of the CRP chassis kit etc. I will keep an eye out for one.

Thanks again

Gary

[Mud Blaster Runner]

Thanks very much for the replies.

Some really helpful info there.

I did wonder whether the gearbox would be up to the 9T to be honest. I will look to put something like the 17.5 in it.

The shocks are indeed from a Monster Beetle. Didn't realise they were still in production so hopefully a Tamiya stockist modelshop should stock the correct O'rings.

I will keep a look out for the Blackfoot mounts. That way I can keep the shell I already have! Great tip thanks.

Looking forward to getting it up and running now.

Thanks

Gary

[Mud Blaster Runner]

Dear Fellow Tamiyaclub members,

This is my first post on this forum. Have been a Tamiyaclub member for a few years though.

I am in the process if rebuilding a tatty Mud Blaster. I want to end up with a fun runner. I have the whole car in bits and am satisfied that all the important parts are in good condition. I am going to instal an EZ Run 9T brushless system but I do not have a body.

I purchased a polycarb shell (from a re-re Brat) but didnt realise the rear body mounts would be so different to the hard plastic body. Therefore I am now stuck! Basically I want a nice light polycarb/lexan body to fit on the standard Mud Blaster mounts. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I am open to any suggestions!

Also I need new shock O-rings for the standard yellow CVA shocks. I can't seem to find these available anywhere. I have tried Schumacher ones but they seem very slightly too big on the inner hole. Again any suggestions would be very helpful.

Thanks

Gary