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Everything posted by Flerbizky

  1. Not sure I'm of any help (as pr. usual) - but going along with AMPRO Engineering, I installed a set of Frog Universals (part# 53908) with my MIP diff. Mind you, I'm only running an old Technipower (keeping it oldskool ), but it hasn't popped so far.
  2. no... lol I still think it could work though...lol
  3. Can't help with the stickers, but I can highly recommend the ones from MCI Racing!
  4. I don't really. Well ventilated area. It's not something I do every day, or even every month, so whatever little dust I accidentally inhale - so be it. If I was really concerned about this, I should really give up smoking as well and move out of the city. Someone at Reddit was ready to give up on a make of RC cars because the clutch plate in the slipper contained asbestos, and he probably inhales more of that in 2 days just by living in the city.
  5. 2.5mm fibreglass. I'm going all out with carbon on my next sandwich chassis project (Blitzer Beetle)
  6. While I agree the LW is a nice option, it's far too rare for a runner/basher (IMHO of course). SC10 tranny swap is super easy, plenty of pictures around (some by me even) and makes the truck tranny bulletproof.
  7. That doesn't look half bad. And if the diffs and transmission can take a bit of beating - that's a winner!
  8. My original which comes with a 750 as standard does have a small bracket over the front chassis-brace which supports the motor - but I would have no issues sticking a 750 in my re-re without it. Else they're the same, so off you go (:
  9. Or an expensive shrink wrapped Tamiya box with a dead cat inside..
  10. No. But my obviously stupid joke about you throwing the rest of you away after losing a bit of hair apparently fell flat on its face. Bigtime.
  11. That's quite drastic for losing a little bit of hair no?
  12. @SuperChamp82mentioned the Futaba 4YWD with added shift gate. Something like this perhaps? https://www.stellamodels.com.hk/graphite-stick-shift-gate-futaba-4vwd-p-2798.html - I know it says for the 4VWD on the page, but I'm sure you can find something that fits (or make this fit). 4YWD product page says: All channels in self-neutral (spring-loaded) for easy use with MF units or firing of main guns
  13. Sorry. But modern ESCs don't use FETs - that was back in the days: ESC with FETs (burned through protective shrink with a 2x12): Modern ESCs handles the output through PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) - and will actually run cooler at lower throttle than they will on full. When running on partial throttle, the motor will naturally draw (a lot) less power than it will at what.
  14. Knock yourself out with mechanical limiting. Tape a piece of cardboard behind the trigger. As you said yourself, in the old days, power was regulated by letting it flow through resistors. Today. What a modern ESC does, is cut the stream of power into small chunks, so instead of a continuous stream of power, like --------------------------------- you get chunks released like: - - - - - - - - with more and more chunks released in the same time the more throttle you apply. Do I even make any sense? (:
  15. I'm currently sitting at my desk using it as an anvil for my head. Not very many days ago, someone, on the danish equivalent of Craigslist, listed a Clod and a TXT-1 in the same ad - for £150. Old. Cracked tires. As I already have 2 x Clod and a Jugg2 - I didn't think I needed them. He who snoozes etc.....
  16. @TWINSET Thank you for that. Had been meaning to dig this out for myself, but not yet gotten around to it!
  17. But did they try to make you pay $399 a year?. ( : (Tongue in cheek comment obviously)
  18. I might be old. And I might also be a bit stupid - but I, for one, chose to trust Google. I believe them when they say "Don't be evil" - and trust they would never pull a PhotoBucket stunt... Also - I'm paying $2.99 (I think) a month for 100Gb of image storage - so technically - it's far from free.
  19. Something here: Not much to it actually. 3mm fibre glass sheet cut to resemble the shape of the original bottom/motor plate (I bolted the original plate to the fibre glass and used that as a template instead of drawing - because I'm lazy). I believe there's a kit out there with the front mounts for the motor - I used some alu spacers I had in the spares box.
  20. You can still download them off the site and use Google Images, Imgur or something. And yes. PhotoBucket can go eff themselves...
  21. No no. Please do share in public. Create a thread with pictures info etc. I'm certainly intrigued by this too!
  22. 1. Mine came fully ball-raced. 2. I added the slipper clutch. Compared to the rest of the kit, it's a small price to pay to add a little protection to the gearbox. 3. I wouldn't bother with 4-links on the Bruiser. It isn't, and never will be, a competent crawler by any means. Buy an SCX10 for that. Enjoy it for what it is. 4. I run the stock 540 motor with std. pinion. As bullet #3 says - unless you want to convert it into something it isn't, you don't need much more. Should I go "ballistic", I'd go for an RC4WD 750 motor. No more than that. 5. I changed the stock ESC to a used programmable Castle Creations as I didn't like the (almost instant) drag brake on the Tamiya ESC. I like it to coast to a stop (also to help prevent wear on the gearbox: See bullet #2). 6. I run Spektrum DX3Es on my 2-3 gear models. They're cheap, easy to adjust and the 2-3 position thumb switch is perfect for shifting. I know it's only a one model TX, but I can only have so many cars that needs gear change. (I also dislike stick TXs) 7. I use a Savöx for steering. See bullet #3 again. Anything without too much jitter will do fine for shifting. [Edit:] 8. Strictly cosmetical - I bought a set of alloys with a little more offset on the front to align the track front and rear. You hardly see the 5mm difference on the wheels, but the overall look is so much better. ( :
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