Mr.Nismo
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Posts posted by Mr.Nismo
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Bad condition runner: 100-150 euro's
Good condition runner: 150-250 euro's
Restored: 250-350 euro's
New build: 350-500 euro's
NIB: 600-800 euro's
These are indications of prices i have seen Egresses been sold on Ebay and here at TC. Please remember that it is worth waitng for a complete Egress for a bit more money, the buy yourself a runner and spending loads of cash to restore it.
http://classictamiyarc.com/tamcars41.html Here they talk about 350 dollar for a NIB. The text is form 2005, now two years later the NIB prices have gone up to about 700-800 dollar.
Good luck on finding one.
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I definitly regret the sale of an Avante i had bought for 150 euro's. In that buy there was:
-Egress body (NEW), Avante in parts (NEW), box, Technigold (NEW), Dynatech 02H (NEW), Hi-Cap dampers (NEW), Vanquish body (NEW) , almost an other complete Avante in parts (NEW).
I have sold all the stuff and got big money for it. The money i recieved was spend on all cars i now have in my collection, but i'm also collecting parts for a new build Avante again[
] Ok, i'm very proud of my collection, but 150 euro for a new build Avante was a bargain!!Well, we have to keep dreaming on stuff we want, so i just switch of the regrets and continue collecting NIP Avante parts.
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In my opinion it is! When you have a NIB Dynatech 02H, you can see there is a Avante/Egress motor mount plate included. As some US Avante's were not sold with the Technigold motor, the Dynatech is a Hop-Up for it. I would say the Dynatech is a great motor to use on your Avante Resto.
Good luck!!!
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Here are pics of the decals. Sorry for the size.
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I do have bought the repro decals from Jay and just applied them on my original 959 body. These repro decals are great!!! No problems at all with bubbles or wrinkles. The quality and flexibility is very good to get the curves right. Only thing to watch out for is to not stretch them to much! If you don't look out for that the "striping" decal can become 1 cm longer. Another handy thing is that de strpies are divided into two separate stripes. A red one and a gold one. It's much easier to apply this way and the fact the decals are pre cutted along the edges only makes things easier.
Thanks a lot Jay for the repro's!! I can advise them to you all.
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Much interest but no money. A NIB Celica Gr.B came by so all my RC funds is gone. I'll have a look if i can score some money elswhere. I'll keep you updated.
PS- Thanks for all the comments/tips
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Today i had build up enough trust to finally apply those horrible 959 red and gold stripe decals. I have done three before but never manage to get it right. I have used all of the techniques i have learn here at TC. You know..the soapy water, move in place, press a cloth to get the bubbles out and finally the hairdryer to get the decal around the diffucult corners. BUT......today the decal is finally in it's place without any bubbles or wrinkels and 10 minutes later...plop plop plop plop plop. There all back [8o|]
Is this deu to the quality of the older decals or am i from a kind of breed who never get this things right [:S]
I have recently applied the decals from the Taisan Porsche. Also difficult corners and bends, but with the hairdryer all went well and there isn't any bubble or wrinkle that returned. I have done many bodies in my life and never had any problems except for the 959.
What is the key to my problem. Should i get myself a reproduction decal set for the red and gold stipe decal????? The reproduction ones are printed on the modern type of vinyl so maby they can be applied much easier?????
Thanks
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Thanks for reply! I have contacted the guy at work. He told me he bought the car for about 150 euro's back then. I will ask him if he is willing to sell it.
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Dear Rc lovers,
I guy at work brought a car with him from Marui. It was a 1/40 scale F40 Rc car. Also known as 40PRO The car contians the original box, books, transmitter, charger etc. The car work on 27mhz and the display case of the car also is it's charger. He told me he had bought i in 1989 in a LHS. He payed a lot of money for it and the guy at the LHS told him that he only had 4 cars for sale. These cars were the only 4 he could lay his hands on. I haven''t hearded or seen any of these 1/40 Marui cars here at TC. Also ebay has nothing. When looking at Google i could only find this: http://ikinari-rc.com/smallrc/40pro.html
Is this 40pro stuff known to anybody? Is it rare? Does Marui had a lot of these cars?
Hope to hear from you.
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Hi,
The Avnate also came without a Technigold motor. There were 2 kind of versions for sale back then. One with a Technigold and one without a Technigold. If i'm right, the kit without one had a sticker on the box wich sayed: No motor included.
1700 dollar is a lot of money!!!! If i want to buy one, i will buy a new build one.
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Do you guys know if it is possible to use a Tamiya TEU Electric Speed Controller for the Bruiser??
Can the Tamiya TEU handle the Bruiser motor??
Thanks.
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Check: http://kope.com/bruiser/ hit the "tech" button and then the "gearbox service manual"
Check: http://myrcmt.net/ipb/index.php?showtopic=47 Very much useful information.
Good luck!!
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My first car was a Alfa Romeo 155 V6TI on the TA02 chassis. I bought the car with my brother and build it in two days. Some weeks later i drove my first race. The car was completly standard. MSC, 540 motor etc. I was last in de B-final. For the next race i had bought an Actopower black motor, but still had the MSC [
] Not a good iedea! Batteries were running up like crazy.I was lucky to have a job at 13 and making lots of money for that age, because i tought that Hop-Ups were the key to becomming 1st every race [
] I bought them all, but still no A-finals. Sadly for me there was nobody who could teach me the basics of RC racing. I learned everything along the way. After 2 seasons of racing i bacame more and more experienced. In the 3rd season i was allready driving in the top 15 of the dutch euro-cup. The last season i drove i beacme 9th overall from about 90 drivers.
What Tamiya learned me???
- Hop-Ups are not made to win races when you drive your first RC race ever [
]- Tamiya learned me everything about RC, RC racing and RC cars
- Tamiya also learned me how expensive a RC hobby can be
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She's on her feet!!
Just finished the front of my Bruiser. Finally she's on her feet now. I can't wait to begin cleaning the body.
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The silicone spray works great. One of the specifications is that is doesn't attrack dirt. Because it's a little greasy dust it will attrack dust. But if you whipe the chassis parts in with it and then whipe it of with a clean cotton cloth there will be a small film left wich is enough for protection agains your fingers etc.
I haven't choose for sand blasting and chroming because (in my opinion) the realism of the car/chassis is gone then. I must admit that a bling-bling chassis is nice, but i like the "just very good cleaned" more.
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After i cleaned and polished the chassis i used slicone spray to protect the steel from the outer elements. I've read you're restoring a Bruiser yourself at http://www.rcmt.net/
Good luck and please show us some pics!!
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My Porsche 959's cost me about 400 euro's to complete. Thats including the purchase price. Recon that the body cost me 200 euro's it's not that expensive (i think [
]) I don't know how many houres are used to finish them. The body took the most time. My Bruiser has cost me 150 euro's till now. That's about 600 euro's including purchase. I have bought the joint for the rear, front axle casing and all stuff needed for cleaning and polishing. I think another 150 euro's is comming for paint, decals and some small parts like the rear lisence plate. In the end i've spend about 800 euro's i think when it's done, but i had fun for 1500 euro's [
] I don't know if 800 euro's is much to expensive for a 100% restored Bruiser, but i know the quality of the work. It's also a case of: sometimes you win and sometimes you loose. If just bought a nice Hilux for 75 euro's. If restoring will be 300 euro's, the total will be 375 euro's. I don't think i can buy a 100% restored HiLux for that money.
The most fun i get from restoring, is that something dirty and broken can be turned into a displaymodel. Searching all those sites, stores and people to just find that one piece is great fun. The time i spend on the restaurations is not important in my opinion.
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Thank you very much [
]When i'm done i'm want to arrange a meeting with some dutch TC members and drive around all those Bruisers, Hiluxes, Blazers and Mounty's!
The body will be the last difficult bit i think. It's my first hard body to restore.
I hope my front gearcases will be delivered this week, so the chassis will be finished.
Keep looking here.
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I'm glad i have found a brand new front gear case. It's on its way from Belgium.
I also have other shocking news. Today i have bought a Hilux for ............75 euro's!!!!!!
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][][][][]The Hilux is complete and original. Box-art body+cocpit+driver. No cracks. Wheels are 100% It comes without any more stuff, but what a bargain!!! I was the first one who spotted it at a local auction site. The guy didn't had his phonenumber included at the add, so i searched the internet for all people with the same name in that village. When i called the first one...BULLS EYE!
He will send the car tommorrow. Till that time i have no pics, but you guys will be the first to see it.
Now i have another 3-speed wich is worth restoring. How things can go [
] Scotch&Brite here i come!Pics will follow ASAP!!
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@$#^%@!!!! Just broken my rear-back gearcase!!
I was allready looking for a new one, just to make it all perfect and new. Now the old one is broken. There was a very small tear in it but i didn't had the idea it was that bad. When i screwed the front and rear together the thing snapped. My restauration is over for today. Please help me out!
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Great project to start! I think the result will be very nice.
Cheers
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Yesterday i finished the rear driveline. I have polished the gearcase only a bit because i found it more realistic when it's not to shiny. The axle came form the LHS. I picked them up today. They were ordered from Tamiya Netherlands and are the Jeep Wrangeler ones. The front axle wich isn't mounted is a original one that also came from Tamiya Netherlands. Sometimes these guys still have parts on stock! When i'm looking for parts i always check there stock first. My Loctite Nissan Skyline body also came from them as some MSC for the Porsche 959 and these axles.
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Again 6 Taisan body's for sale at JR-RC. I've got mine!
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I have first taken the complete transmission apart and cleaned everything with a very strong degreaser. Then i have given them a treatment with Scotch&Brite. The last step was using my german polishing cream with a cloth-disk. The hard to reach areas were done by hand. Yesterday i also have removed all sealant left-overs. What a job!!
I like the result because it's really making a "very clean" apperance rather than a "bling-bling" one. There is stil some room for improvement. Some very small areas can use a dremel-polish- job.
Today i will start the rear axle. Pics follow.
] Ok, i'm very proud of my collection, but 150 euro for a new build Avante was a bargain!!
] I bought them all, but still no A-finals. 
]
No more Tamiya Euro cup here in Holland. What is going on!!
in General discussions
Posted
Sadly Tamiya Holland doesn't participate anymore in the Euro-cup races. The only thing they will increase is giving demonstrations on motorshows, fairs and stuff like that.
The main reason for Tamiya Holland to end the Euro-cup is, for example, there are driving 15 TA05 cars from wich 5 come from Tamiya Holland. The other 10 come from ebay or shops that use Tamiya Germany as there importer. The other reason is the money it takes to reserve the circuit and people that are in the organisation.
I understand that the Euro-cup is a pure marketing tool to let people get involved RC racing and Tamiya in particular. From a marketing point of view i can understand that if you look at the costs and benefits, they choose to stop the races.
But there are some more points i don't understand. Tamiya Holland talkes about the fact that there are more cars driving that there were sold via Tamiya Holland. Most of them come from shops that use Tamiya Germany as there importer. The reason for this can be that Tamiya Germany has a much less agressive way of doing business and that the German Tamiya importer is cheaper to buy from. The latest problem is that Tamiya Holland is opening there own franchise Tamiya shops. I have heard a rumour that the stuff in these shops are cheaper than in a shop that is just a dealer of Tamiya kits. This way Tamiya Holland is undermining there relations with the Tamiya dealers. Some of the shops have chosen the buy from Germany.
The other thing is ebay. More and more people become familiar with internet and buying from internet. More and more RC fans find there stuff at ebay (also the beginners). Is this wrong????? I think not. Technology and internet is growing day by day and for some RC fans it is not an isseu to just buy there stuff without the service, personal contact and garantee you get at your LHS. When you just look at the prices for some cars......Lets take the Ford High Lift. This car can be bought on ebay for 300 euro's including shipping (that is without any import tax)! Here in Holland the car costs about 450 euro's. If your just looking for cheap and know how to build the car, ebay is the way to go. Maby Tamiya Holland have to take measures so people are less willing to buy from ebay or internet.
If the costs are to high, maby they have to increase there effort to get more people on a raceday. Maby a fee of 5 euro's per contender is an option. If you give the drivers more value for there money, 5 euro's shouldn't be a problem. When looking at the website, it is not up-to-date, you can not find any information about new releases etc. In Germany, UK etc Tamiya has a special website related to there Euro-cup.
The power of the Euro-cup is that you can race a car right out of the box. For any kind of person and wallet there is a class to drive in. The atmosphere is also very good during the races. It is different then the National championship Electro 1/10. In this series there is more serious competition and there are sponsered drivers etc. I can't imagine that you would drive the National championship with a standard TT01 car without any kind of experience.
Well, maby in the end it's all just a case of lack of money, people and effort.
Please give me your ideas about this case. I like to share some thoughts on this one.