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About irenL

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  • Birthday 06/30/1979

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Vic.
  • Interests
    crafting and stuff

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  1. wheelspin is wheelspin. the FF01 can handle down to 11 turn in my past experience, just have to go real easy on the squirter, and pick a good ratio. lock the diff and toe out the rear.
  2. that's a kyosho tf4r in bits n pieces... used to have one.
  3. 1. glow engine car springs of the same colour will have slightly firmer rate. 2. 70/50? That will work with 2 hole pistons front and back. 50 will flow too easy through the 3 hole piston. Personally, I like to fill both front and rear dampers with the same oil weight. That setup of mine was for running 40F/35R foam tyres on asphalt. It works on 32R compound belted 24mm slicks as well... Basically any tyre with stiff sidewall. Early morning when the track is cold and the sugar water still fresh, I flip the foams back to front. For sure, by the end of the race day, both front and rear foam tyres were about the same rolling diameter. And still useable for the outlaw mini class as well. The FF01 is probably the only FF chassis from tamiya which can be paced wildly into corner. The FF02 needs a quite radically different setting, and much different driving style... can't let off the throttle completely -basically just floor it and it will still turn hard, especially on cold days.
  4. the same bottom plate for TA02 FRP chassis kit suggested a forward battery mounting when used for FF01... forward by 8mm or so if memory serves me right. There is nothing wrong with the TA02 tub the FF01 is running with, work in more negative camber in the rear, set rear toe to 0 via TL01 toe blocks, and run yellow (medium) springs in the back, coupled with blue in the front. I'm running the super mini CVA plastic dampers, same piston valving as stock, but up the oil weight to #900 or 90 weight.. This is the best combo I've driven with, 5 yrs ago. Agile yet well planted. In fact, there are times I have to swap the blue for the whites up front.
  5. the FF01, like the majority of tamiya cars, uses a motor that spins counter clockwise when viewed from the pinion shaft end. That would be a normal rotation motor. AFAIKIMSW, about the only tamiya cars which need reverse rotation motor are the M02, Clod buster, bullhead, and what's that truck with 2 motor and independent suspension? on motors with adjustable end bell, you simply turn the end bell to opposite spot, hook up power leads the wrong way, and run new brushes -if the motor was used in normal direction- to reverse the direction. I work quite a lot on my FF01... 10th place from an average driver in the field of 20, 10 years younger AWD yokomos, hot bodies, tamiyas, etc... They only beat me on the starting grid (good to save the car around the first corner pile up), and those knowing how to properly drive would make a pass anyways.. Ps: please don't start a new thread if the question is related to your other post... trying to keep things organized.
  6. it will handle the RZ just fine, use the 66t spur gear, or 69t out of the skyline tuned gear set.. I've thrown in 10x5 in there and it still can be made to handle. And now I'm throwing in a 9t brushless as well... been months ago actually, just haven't got time to run it proper. To be honest, it's been eons since I last touched the ball diff in my ff01.. I usually leave it to stock setting. I'd be more worried of the diff cover loosening when it got knocked off course by another car. The FF02 can be made to handle 9 turn brushed as well, though not as smooth as the FF01 (too light).
  7. Nope... simply put, been busy as of late. I do wrench on them till i slept on the table.. the last time i drove any of mine was last year's August. I have the R/C, and the 1/1 to cater to... Good thing I'm still single as well I think.. otherwise would have no time for either.
  8. try do a search on this site on 3R diff. I've posted it within the general forum. I've lost the paper with the part number in the last house move.
  9. Both the mantaray and TA03 ball diff will still require you to split the clamshell chassis to gain adjustment to them I'd recommend 3R ball diff. Works a treat, cost less, and you only need to remove a suspension pin to adjust it with allen key. Currently in my FF02 (another variant of the M03 chassis).
  10. An FF01 never really torque steer... nor any FWD 1/10 R/C car for that matter. the main objective to swapping for aluminium suspension parts should only be done if you're looking for better strength. TA01 front suspension arms runs 39mm dog bones, as opposed to 42mm with TA02. More positive caster will help straightline stability, more so than say, softer suspension setup.
  11. interesting project... Though if you think you can have the generic off the shelve wide tyres n wheels to fit on the TA02 front knuckles, then you are very wrong. The rims lips will rub on the steering arms without a lot of spacing. Use a TA01 front end instead.
  12. longer axles on the TA03 were available on the chassis mentioned previously. though if you want to widen the scope a bit, the TL01 rear up-rights (both toe-in and not) will fit the arms perfect, and allows you to use the TG10 long rear axles. If you have stabilizers fitted, then you simply have to relocate the end links to the suspension arms. You'll need new, shorter camber links in the back. The big bonus is, the Toe-in rear uprights are reinforced, much like the reinforced shock tower for the TA03. Stiff. for the front end, just swap in front knuckles out of TA01 or DF01 or TL01B. Fits perfect into the C hubs, just need longer king pins as the case have been with the TA02W. That I've done. installing the TL01/M03 steering knuckles will give you a lot of bumpsteer, and very awkward steering tie rod angle. Not recommended.
  13. A positive ROTFLMAO at all the responses hahaha anyways, counterviper, if u still want the spur gear and idler gear out of the DF01, I have 2 used sets, both still in good condition. Just pay shipping. Otherwise I'll just chuck the idlers into my GX1, in lieu to make another chassis based on TA01/02. Anyways, as Willy mentioned, anything before TA03 is pre Stargek, as in u should be bugging Tai Sing. Thing is, when Tai Sing got split, all the Tamiya stock goes to Stargek. Aiyoh! all this Singlish got me fun headache..
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