Juggular

I feel the same way. Mine drives funky, as if there was a hamster in the Dagger resisting my control. I think the rear motor runs slightly faster than the front. The rear axle pushing while the front dragging would make driving atrocious. Every single motor has slightly different RPM. It's impossible to make the magnets with exactly the same magnetic force, have the wires balanced the same way, have the bushings exert exactly the same resistance, brush contacts wear out the same way, etc. (Wild Dagger's design was sort of like the Clod Buster; 2 identical axles are mirror images of each other). If I simply swap the motors, those motors have to run in reverse of what they are used to. The slower motor might run faster when running in reverse (if brush contact is better in reverse, etc). Then it'd be moot. I wanted to measure several motors' RPMs when running in the right direction and in reverse, and match motors. I would try to have the front one running about 2-5% faster than the rear. It would drag the rear axle when going straight, but have less oversteer when turning. I would have to measure the RPM occasionally also. Since the shape of the brushes would change as they wear out, as the motor ages it would have different RPM. I think that's why Tamiya's has not gone back to the dual motor setup. The new chassis is a single motor 4x4. The Squash Van would drive in a more predictable manner than the Wild Dagger. The wheelbase is 267mm, which is 14mm shorter than the Dagger's 281mm. The Squash is 3cm narrower in width due to shorter arms too. So, if one is inclined to slap on the Dagger body, it might not work.

That's it. For them to survive, they have to stock up on the common denominator. Something a 10 year old and a 75 year old would like equally. Local hobby shop was great when I was younger. When there was no internet, you didn't even know what else was available. LHS was the world! But now that everybody has thousands of world's shops on their hands, everybody gets to know what variety looks like. Kids would want cheap $25 helicopter toys in great variety. Old Tamiya fans want more Tamiya stuff. The basher crowd would want more Traxxas, etc. So the shops just carry few $25 helicopters that even Tamiya fans might like. They carry Lunchbox even kids might buy. Another problem is that while the shops have to broadly cover everybody's interest only to a shallow degree, each customer may come in with specialized knowledge; We may know more about Tamiya than the clerks. The conclusion: internet is evil and ignorance was bliss. (I'm kidding of course.)

That's very well done. It's a shame that Monster Beetle can't be found. I've seen a clearer image. It's a shame it only exist in my memory. What's sad is that Japan seems to have pretty strict regulations about image uploading. Searches on yahoo japan is always like 1/10th of what we can find outside. I did save up some images, but that was like 20 years ago. I don't think I can find that folder after going through 3－4 computers... if I ever find it, I'll make sure to post it here. But I would not count on it. I hope you do find it, because that restored Subaru looks really good. That's some good memory you are preserving!

I use imax B6, like a quarter of all RCers (that's my guess, don't quote me on that). But now I'm using the simple charger @alvinlwh recommended. ISDT PD60 is cheap & easy to use if you have a USB-C charger for ipad. Most chargers need a transformer (power supply) that changes AC 120v (or 220v) from the wall, to either DC 12v or 6v (that's where ipad charger comes in--phone chargers won't work. they have too few amps). If the battery is 3000mAh, it will take an hour at 3A setting (which many ipad chargers are capable of.) You can plug USB-C to power it. Plug the battery on the other end and it should work. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801108792765.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.9.63b56586is0dSc&algo_pvid=5e719e8a-e7a2-4fc6-90fc-a7a169303131&algo_exp_id=5e719e8a-e7a2-4fc6-90fc-a7a169303131-4&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!22.41!15.69!!!22.41!15.69!%4021030ea417298870741178705e1923!12000027044918837!sea!US!2630314545!X&curPageLogUid=BM9zeAVLSVGV&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A If your battery has a Tamiya plug, you would need a XT60 to Tamiya adapter (like below). One should always be mindful of male and female side. Many imax B6s come with multiple adapters, but it could be different from seller to seller. (I imagine half the B6 are knockoffs especially non-blue ones. But the consensus is that they work just as well.) PD60 doesn't come with any adapter or wires. (No, it did come with one 6" wire, but that was for old one-prong laptop charger, I think). https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807062460479.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.2e5325feNKPhkM&algo_pvid=a6cd9f8f-47e0-49e1-9bd9-73443a9df006&algo_exp_id=a6cd9f8f-47e0-49e1-9bd9-73443a9df006-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!8.02!2.69!!!56.87!19.07!%402103247917298878443561362e338a!12000039948723433!sea!US!2630314545!X&curPageLogUid=dHq5fPgGzZQp&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A I get too lazy to setup imax B6, so I just use PD60. Since it can do 6A charge (if USB-C can supply 65w or more), 3000mAh battery can be charged in 30 minutes. For a cheap little thing, it's good. (If you want iMax B6, there is a fat one that contains a power supply. But if that burns out, the charger becomes useless. You'd have to get a new B6, instead of just getting a new power supply.)

You can run few packs through and see how you feel about it. 1. Back in the 80s, we all ran nylon bushings. Eventually, after dozens of packs, they'll make grooves on the steel shafts. Nylon + dust is stronger than steel, apparently. When that happens (after dozens of packs running in dusty areas), you can't replace them with proper bearings anymore. You'd have to replace shafts too. But for a few runs, it should be fine. 2. When you get it, just press the wheel up and see how it interferes. Turn the other wheel slowly, and push it up and down. You'll see how it interferes. If I remember correctly, lower hang was more of a concern for me. When the suspension was at the lowest, the wheels would turn with clicks, or something. But it might be different for the stock friction shock. So you'd want to check it yourself. 3. I have not heard about the motor sliding off. Motors are not that easy to slide off. The pinion could come loose. You'd hear grinding vibration like a broken chainsaw. But it's rare. If that happened, you can simply tighten the grub screw on the pinion. All in all, you can just run it a couple times, and see what you want to do. Bearings are a good upgrade no matter what. I think it's mostly 1150 bearings? Double check that, if it is 1150, it's only about $5 for 10. Don't worry and have fun! There are dozens of places where you could get bearings from. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806932524096.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.bf126db7ZbowKQ&algo_pvid=98e5dcd8-1c2a-4d5e-a2b3-19b51539f826&algo_exp_id=98e5dcd8-1c2a-4d5e-a2b3-19b51539f826-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!4.13!4.13!!!29.31!29.31!%402103277f17298037128362300e0df6!12000039463374213!sea!US!2630314545!X&curPageLogUid=La5jj4FbTYkw&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

Sticks? There is nothing wrong with it, I learned the ropes with sticks. The only thing I'll comment is to consider the price of receivers. Almost nobody quits at car #1. So there is the likelihood of adding car #42. Price of receivers can add up. If it's $7, ten models would be $70. If it's $29, it'd be $290 after bloating the fleet to just ten.

Without hearing, my first guess would be nylon bushings having lost all lubrication. Those white plastic bushings are like glass, when rubbing on steel shafts without lubrication, they can squeak like a little bird is dying or something. If you've got bushings, bearings might be a good upgrade. They can make you accelerate faster, run longer and achiever higher top speed. I forget the percentage, maybe 15% faster acceleration, 10% faster top speed, 12% longer run time. At minimum, you should gain close to 10% on all three accounts. Bearings are harder to make squeaking noises, but you never know. I think GF01 uses only 1150 bearings. 22 or 24? Not sure of the numbers. You can get 25 of them for $9. Shipping isn't free, unless you rack up $30, though. Just type in 5x11x4mm bearings, and you'd find deals from Temu, Aliexpress, etc. https://www.temu.com/5x11x4mm-mr115-2rs-bearings-width-miniature-small-bearings-pre-lubricated-and-double-rubber-sealed-30-pcs-g-601099666084366.html?_oak_mp_inf=EI6kyeCm1ogBGiBhNDBjMTE3NGM1ZjM0MzliOTFiM2FjMGRkZGE5NGYzZCC3o5jboDI%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2Ffancy%2Faa1f1db9-0b11-491d-b65b-7712f3e9eef3.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2425379438&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=OTE5&search_key=ball bearing 5x11x4&refer_page_el_sn=200049&_x_enter_scene_type=cate_tab&_x_sessn_id=6aa35f23k8&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1726768095583_oik8er77d5 Even Amazon sells 20 for $10. https://www.amazon.com/Sackorange（20-MR115-2RS-5x11x4mm-Replacement-Precision/dp/B073SP7TN1/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.F3prlcv3Dpof_onb8YVs9zG8XPsW6bKhhP0dF2xb7gAzddQ5MG8oTZGsWhWRSwKMhtA6lBuPwfbuuSIYNOz-PYPNH2H0aW-71Dk4vPBph_nMXqprhzhJZhYyO-7P-YGLd7U5zvcuSZd30kYkXE04Ac4R55V4Ij44GWGT7DP6XEnsrMAF3wzssg5Mxc33CmhqGIWEPqbyGOVdyT81Yxj4Xhh5igFiYkV7wGJLpVPfPn4.x4uPCNYoUN8vZUErlJC3Wbe0CLQyNzSiAJ19xicQMi8&dib_tag=se&keywords=5x11x4mm+bearings&qid=1726769908&sr=8-3 Second guess would be worm gears loose on the pinion gear of the motor. But that tend to be a pulsating noise.

On the prevention side, if you go out in the sun, cover your skin. Even for a 5 minute run to test out the gear ratio, wear a hat and sunblock. (Starting with me: I haven't followed my own advice often.) Murphy's law applies to health. Whatever could go wrong, would go wrong.

That means that you are more discerning than the "professionals."

I came across this video about a guy in Kyushu, Japan. He has been painting and selling shells for decades. (Mr. Maruoh?) He uses a special swivel head knife. It can cut curves with greater ease. Since I'm so easily influenced, I had to get it myself. (NT Cutter, "SW-600GP") I forgot how I bought it. Maybe ebay. I haven't even used it yet. I suspect that it does not turn 90 degrees on a dime. But more like a gentle few degrees. But that little angle could help a lot. So these are what I use. The yellow Olfa design knife is what I have been using for years. Maybe the swivel head would replace it. Very rarely do I use scissors (almost never). I feel they are a lot clunkier than design knives. But if you prefer to use scissors, Fiskars sell titanium non-stick scissors. Stickers and tapes stick to the blades less. I got them for $7 two years ago, but now they cost $14! (Steel is stronger per volume, so I don't know why they made them out of titanium... Oh... it's perfect if you want them to wear out faster. Planned obsolescence=built to not-last. Since stickers aren't hard material, they should be fine. I would not use titanium blades to cut lexan shells.) I'm tempted to try these $2 cross stitch scissors. They might work just as well as Tamiya's $25 scissors. Scissors were invented 3000 years ago. They don't have to cost $25. https://www.temu.com/stainless-steel-retro-embroidery-scissors-cross-stitch-scissors-student-office-household-scissors-hand-thread-scissors-small-scissors-sewing-scissors-g-601099573595936.html?_oak_mp_inf=EKCevLSm1ogBGiBkODk2NmY3NmZmNzc0ZGIxYTVlY2IwODA4ZjhkNWRkNyDE2rHpmTI%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2Ffancy%2Fb0676a39-7cdd-4534-9953-0f3260644f24.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2128512451&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTI4&_oak_gallery_order=801447246%2C2089435375%2C1337204265%2C454966074%2C1592242810&search_key=cross stitch scissors&refer_page_el_sn=200049&_x_sessn_id=8xvv53s3ms&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1724918820685_5f7iwqd6jy Or something curved. https://www.temu.com/1pc-elbow-shear-stainless-steel-embroidery-scissors-with-raised-head-cross-stitch-curved-small-scissors-tailor-clothing-thread-scissors-g-601099514166461.html?_oak_mp_inf=EL35kJim1ogBGiBkODk2NmY3NmZmNzc0ZGIxYTVlY2IwODA4ZjhkNWRkNyDE2rHpmTI%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2FFancyalgo%2FVirtualModelMatting%2F9cd49ef81a1db7f1724696ec9dcb19c2.jpg&spec_gallery_id=15624513&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MjYx&_oak_gallery_order=1153954427%2C632084395%2C2135834178%2C723450134%2C683339863&search_key=cross stitch scissors&refer_page_el_sn=200049&_x_sessn_id=8xvv53s3ms&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1724918820685_5f7iwqd6jy And I've been eyeing on scalpels too. https://www.temu.com/precision-craft-hobby-knife-set-2-stainless-steel-handles-with-20-replacement-blades-11-23-industrial-grade-carbon-steel--for-electronics-repair-carving-diy-projects-assembly-required-g-601099598156834.html?_oak_mp_inf=EKKol8Cm1ogBGiA5NmFmN2VjNTE5ODI0ODZhYTgwNDFiOTE2YmZjYWZjMSD3j%2BXpmTI%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2Ffancy%2F04a89d3d-d85e-4f4d-98bc-e8053aec19a2.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2235403268&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MjA2&_oak_gallery_order=1326820604%2C1370819309%2C1151581708%2C885629905%2C105072236&search_key=scalpel&refer_page_el_sn=200049&_oak_multi_spec_goods_sold=1&_x_sessn_id=8xvv53s3ms&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1724919663054_efdmviptk3 I'm not associated with these sellers, by the way. I'm just cheap.

1. mAh is how long the battery lasts. Back in the days 1200mAh would last like 5 minutes. Nowadays, 3600mAh would last 3 times longer. 2. I use 2 chargers. I have iMax B6. That had been like a universal charger. But now I use ISDT PD60 charger at @alvinlwh's recommendation (now I see he has moved on to Toolkit M4). I don't bother taking out iMax B6. I just use ISDT PD60. It's cheap and it's very convenient. But you do need a beefy USB-C charger. 1A charger most of us use to charge our phones will charge a 4000mAh (=4A) battery in 4 hours. If you have a 2A charger, in 2 hours. If you have a 4A charger, then in one your. 8A charger? 30 minutes. (ISDT PD60 has 6A limit, though). M4 might have a different Amp limit. 3. Your ESC should cut off when the voltage falls below certain level to protect the battery. If not, (like using old ESCs that does not have voltage cutoff) LiPo alarm is useful. So you can protect the battery. 5. Discharge rate. LiPO batteries can discharge a lot faster than NiMH. 30-100C is routinely found in LiPos. That's a big boost. Think of old NiMH batteries as a garden hose. There is a limit to how much water can come out at once. LiPo is like a firehose. A lot of juice can come out all at once. No matter how much water comes out of it, if the turbine (i.e. motor) is tiny, it won't benefit. But brushless can use a lot of juice. So LiPo + brushless, you will notice the difference.

Jeesh, I hope the concussion wasn't too bad. I found that I get clumsy as I've hit 50. It feels like I hurry for no reason and hurt myself. I smashed my finger between the breaker bar and the underside of the chassis. Fortunately, the breaker bar didn't break my bone. But it took 5 weeks for the cut to close. My wife broke her ankle 2 months ago. She started to walk without crutches from last week. It's like people get hurt at around 50. My friend's wife lost about 1cm of fingertip while trimming some brambles outside of her work. She's few years younger than us. Instead of calling it the "late-40's-early-50's-curse," I just call it "the 50-ish curse." We should all be more cautious around this age. Take care of yourself, health is the most important thing. A hobby can wait (you know how Tamiya likes to do re-re-re-re-releases). You can't build stuff with one arm... But if you are inclined, maybe your local library has Ahsoka? Or "Lost Stars." I would recommend them for people who's got time in their hands (well, in your case, just one hand at the moment.) I read it without knowing who Ahsoka was. Maybe your mind could take a vacation in a different universe while your body heals (unless you are a Trekkie, then that's another universe.)

A bit different situation... but I cut a loop or two off the Grasshopper's front springs. I added the friction o-ring damper of the Hornet. That compressed the spring about 6mm. Making it way too stiff. Another TC member had recommended cutting it off. I cut it to make it shorter and softer. It's a lot better. (Really, Tamiya should have supplied shorter springs for the Hornet.) If you are willing to experiment, you could cut them and stretch them to fit. You could go incremental until you find the right stiffness. One benefit is that it's free. If you fail, Lunchbox springs are cheap. If you succeed, other Falcon owners can benefit from your experiment.

That looks kinda similar to something Kyosho. This was for a helicopter, though (and not even 2.4Ghz). It might be from the 90's or early 2000s, so they've been doing it for decades. Futaba rebrands their stuff to a lot of companies. Here, Tamiya and Towerhobbies have the same transmitters. I think Futaba (on the right) made one design for all other parties, but a bit different from Futaba's own. (Please excuse Charlotte's web all over the place).

Long ago, I tried to make my Juggernaut 4WS. It made the whole thing so wobbly, it just wouldn't go straight. (It's got the fattest balloon tires and relatively short wheelbase too.) It took many combinations of altering rod lengths left and right, changing toe, adjusting the steering horn, reducing the slop as much as I could and trimming. When I finally made it go almost straight, it was crabbing! I change the settings again, and it'd be crabbing the other way! I've squeezed enough despair out of that chassis to last several months. Unless it's necessary (like rock crawling), I don't think it's worth the trouble for me. I'm sure newer chassis are a lot better. So please do let me know if it's a breeze (past experiences can teach you. But at the same time, I don't like to be stuck in the past either. If 4WS is easy and fun now, why not?).