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Juggular

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  1. For that reason, I prefer to use white backing in most colors. If you back yellow with black, it becomes dingy as if it's under a perpetual shadow. If you painted gun metal, but if you want it to look a bit silvery, a white backing would help a bit. If you want it to look darker, black backing, obviously. So that's backing under silver. Backing with silver does not work like people think it does. A mirror is shiny on one side, the other side is just gray. All the second layer does is adding "value" to the first layer. What makes it silver is the reflection. The flatter the Lexan surface, the shinier the silver. Since Lexan isn't all that flat (microscopically), silver can't be super shiny. Once you paint it with one layer, underside of that layer is even rougher than bare Lexan. If you back it with silver, it would look shiny from inside (because that's the top layer from inside), but not from the outside. It just makes it dingier like gray, because it IS gray in "value" (painter's term). So I just use white if I want the color to pop. Never silver. Here is the result of a Molotow chrome pen. It's shiny and chromey from inside... But it can't be that shiny from outisde, because the top of the paint was formed on the inside. What we see from the outside is the bottom part that where the pigments sank down to. (It looks like aluminum rather than chrome) It looks essentially the same after peeling the film. I suspect Spaz Stixx (which I have not tried) is designed so that the pigments that sink to the bottom stick together and form a shiny bond. I don't prefer black interior either. Black makes it look like the interior got disappeared by magic. I want it to look like there is interior, not just magical shadows. I did back it with white first, so the color would pop. Black after this, because snow white is too bright. But I should have tried Corsica gray. I thought to cover up the black with beige masking tape and leave it there. But I'm afraid it would stick and tear the paint if I decide to peel the tape someday.
  2. It really depends on the chemistry. But the rule of thumb is 5% on the first day after a full charge. From the second day, 0.5% per day. By that rule, it should be down 7% after 5 days. Rather than capacity, the voltage drop in the first minute would be more noticeable. That's where the most kick is for most batteries, and it may feel slightly less enthusiastic. Up to you, though. I only have bashers, so I would just run. But if I wanted some oomph, I'd charge up for a few minutes.
  3. Going from 7.2v to 8.4v will add some kick, akin to going LiPo. Usually gearing need not be changed. Temperature is another matter, though. Magnets lose power when the temperature goes up. If you heat a magnet on a candle light, it will just lose all magnetic force. Having said that, if you have everything stock, the way Tamiya intended, the motor will stay just warm. I'd say about 60C (140F). Short bursts of 70C (158F) will not damage. Going over 80C (176F), the motor will slowly lose magnetism over time. Let's say that I have 2 buggies having the same kind of motors on tall gearings. The motors get 80C (176F). Initially, they have the same speed. I put a heatsink on one, but not on the other one. After few dozen packs, I would notice the one without a heatsink going slightly slower. That's not the end of the world, but I don't feel comfortable with that temperature because it also strains the ESC. I would lower the gearing so the motor would run cooler. If for some reason I have no choice (because I really like larger tires or something), I would put a heatsink on the motor (or a fan). Temperature goes up when you put 1) too much voltage, 2) high gearing, and/or 3) bigger tires, and or 4) heavier weight. But if the tire size and the weight of the chassis remain the same, going from 7.2v to 8.4 won't change much. I also lubricate the bushings on the motor whenever I could. Brushes are designed to wear up to 5mm. But once bushings wear down even 0.1mm, the motor axle rattles and becomes useless. It does take a long time for that to happen, but it won't hurt to lube with a drop of oil on a needle once in a while.
  4. They broke the mold. Okay, I don't know if that's true. But Tamiya released so many re-res, it's strange that they didn't release the Falcon. How many versions of CC-01 did we have? 50? 60? I didn't like the look of the Falcon back then. One day, the copper price was really expensive (or any other metal that's used in mold making). They had a brand new product to be produced, like CC-01. Tamiya decided "instead of buying, let's just melt one of the least popular molds and the oldest & the biggest. We've got hundreds of those." This was before the idea of re-release. So the Falcon and Willies M38 got sacrificed. (Wild Willy 1's chassis is a deep tub, and the tire mold must have been pretty big too. In the 90s, WW1 was seen as a clunky junk. Sort of like how the real Jeep--that people now would pay good money for, was used as tractors back in the 50s and 60s). So that's my fictional (i.e. fake) explanation as to why there is no Falcon. (If it gets re-released tomorrow, don't blame me not selling your vintage Falcon, because I made it up the reason!)
  5. There was a member who had mounted an outrunner. It does require a lot of modifications, since the can turns. An easier option would be to use a 380 sized brushless with high RPM and low gearing. It might only require a motor plate. If you are not using a LiPo, you can use a very light LiPo too. Something like a 2200mAh LiPo could be less than half the weight of a NiMH. I haven't done such mods, so unfortunately, my limited knowledge ends there.
  6. Sorry, that was not very cautious of me. As @Twinfan mentioned, I meant teeth of the pinion, which is very confusing with 'turns' of a motor. That got me down the rabbit hole... Engineers and scientists are great with numbers, but not really known to be articulate. Maybe they should have used "R" as in "rotation?" If it was "winds," "circles," "loops," "spirals" or "wraps," it would be less confusing with "teeth," if spelled out. But "W" is "watt" so "winds" and "wraps" go out the window. "L" looks like a number. "13l" could be confused with "131." "Circles" would have the same problem, 13C could mean how many amps flow at a given time. Because "C" means current flow, number of cells are indicated with "2S battery"(to mean a 2Cell battery). S of "Spirals" couldn't be used for the same reason. So they chose "turns." Turns make me think of turning left or right, it doesn't normally mean how many times wires are wound. (Wind, wound, is also one of those confusing verbs. They have the same spelling as air moving "wind" and injury "wound." Just pronounced differently. But I digress...) "R" doesn't have that problem, RPM is almost always used as "RPM" so maybe R should have been used. Like "13r motor with 13t pinion." Wouldn't it clearer than 13t motor with 13t pinion? Automotive engineers call transmission oil "fluid," even though it's clearly oil. So fools wouldn't put engine oil in the transmission. (Even so, I managed to drain transmission fluid when I wanted to drain engine oil 2 weeks ago. Take that, engineers! It wasn't as fool-proof as you thought, I out-fooled you!)
  7. I'd also go with a 13t motor. (Like how you didn't run your Hotshot for a long while, I don't run really run mine). I would feel uncomfortable to run it too hot and have the A-arms crack where the pins go through (mine is a vintage from the 80s). Once you have the motor, you have an option of using a different pinions. Since a brushless has more torque, you can go faster with 15, 16, 17t pinions. I have a feeling I would like the stock 13t. But if that's not enough, a 17t should be 30% faster than a 13t.
  8. I suppose it's the law of dilution (I made that up, but it's similar to the law of diminishing returns). If you have just one, it gets 100% of your attention. If you have 2, each gets 50%. If you have 24, each gets 4% of your attention. A person might be interesting, but a crowd isn't. I haven't played computer games for 2-3 years. And then I played Resident Evil 2. It was really fun. But Resident Evil 3 was less interesting. I haven't watched any movie or drama for a long while, and a silly show like 'Resident Alien' was fun (probably anything would've been after a year). So, at least for me, some time between the gap has been the cure. There are fortunate people never loses interest in the hobby, but I think most of us are not that constant. Many of us knows what it feels like. Hopefully, all you need is some time.
  9. So... 280 bearings arrived. The difference between $0.25 cent bearings and $0.27 cent bearings were that the expensive ones had nicer containers with stickers. The bearings themselves seem to be well-made and roll smoothly. The cheaper ones came in a tube of 80 bearings, plus 20. I wondered why they sent it in a bulkier packaging. The tube is 20cm long. It will fit Fifty 1150s (4mm thick) or Eighty 850s (2.5mm thick). Using the tube allowed them to know exactly how many, without actually counting. Why did I order so many? That's because I'm getting old and impatient. Initially, I ordered 120 bearings (plus 50 for rainy days) along with a book light. The first package at my porch only had the book light. But the tracking said both were delivered. I was sure the bearings fell out of the flimsy envelope which was open on one corner. So I asked for a refund for undelivered bearings, and ordered 100 from another vendor. Then I discovered the 120 bearings sitting in my mailbox. I cancelled the refund. But I couldn't cancel the last order. So that's how I ended up with 270 (plus ten 1260s). Last week, I jammed my finger between the breaker bar and the underside of the chassis of my 1:1 Subaru. A chunk of skin was smashed to a pulp. It looks like a 15mm x 5mm skin was eaten by a zombie. It didn't even bleed, because the skin was there, just totally compressed. I knew something like this could happen. So I had a pair of thick gardening gloves ready. But in my haste, I didn't wear them. It was getting dark, and I just wanted to drain the engine oil. I had a flashlight ready too. Again, I didn't use it. When I took off the filter, it said, "AT Automatic Trans." Ahhh, s!%*!! What came out wasn't engine oil. I forgot that the Subaru has the drain plug in the bumper, basically. What's between the front wheels is the transmission plug. I had to take an Uber to get some transmission fluid the next morning. In the end, the car got a full service. But I'm left with a wound that has been soaking in aloe gel for a week now. I have noticed that my 75 year old mother is becoming impatient and judgmental. She was the opposite when she was younger. Now I rush things too. Hurrying cost me money and skin. I don't want to grow into a hateful old man either. I should do yoga or meditation or something. At least, I have enough excuses to buy RC cars for a decade or more. 100 would go into the tracks. The Lunchbox needs one 850 bearing? I should tell my wife that another 3 sets of tracks are much cheaper than 170 Lunchboxes...
  10. I've done that for the front shocks of M-06. The nose was too light, so I drained the oil. Even after that, the static friction was still too great, so I took 1 o-ring out. I fill the space left by one o-ring with a plastic spacer, so the remaining o-ring won't move up and down with the shaft. One less o-ring and no oil made the movement is just right for the front. (The heavy rear has 2 o-rings and oil). It's not much different from the Hornet.
  11. Yep, maybe the pinion was installed upside down? Instead of a full mesh, it looks like only 1/3rd of the teeth were in touch with the pinion.
  12. Could it be a hydro-lock of a sort? If it is, it's not the holes in the pistons, but the volume of rod. The extra volume has to be compensated by something. One way to resolve this is, to build it with the piston half way in. If it's sticky O-rings, you can try it without much oil in. Air can compress, so it won't lock. If o-ring stiction is the problem, there are better ones out there. So those are 2 things I could think of.
  13. I never had Revell cans, but I had Humbrol enamel in those mini cans. It had the caps with numbers. For general health reasons, I've switched over to Tamiya Acrylics for painting drivers. But I liked uncapping, stirring and painting these. Enamel is hardier. I miss the smell too (bad for health, though.) Now that I'm older, I'd wear a respirator in the room and use it only on a windy day so the wind would carry the fumes out. Acrylic is alcohol based; far less toxic than enamel. But if you use enamel once in a blue moon, why not?
  14. That happen to me once before. (Might have been the BigWig?) I tried many different 1150 bearings purchased from various vendors, and one bearing eventually fit. The gearbox could have shrunken at different temperature. But apparently not all 1150 bearings were the same size, so it worked out. The original Wild Willy has 1 very small bushing, like 640 or something. I couldn't find a bearing. 6mm bearing with a 4mm hole means the balls had to be smaller than 1mm. One bearing short has been eating me alive for the past 20 years...
  15. I vaguely remember something like a misshapen part before. I can't remember what it was. As other members mentioned, it's very rare. I'm surprised that there aren't collectors of malformed parts like rare coin collectors. It's the Borrowers using the truck shell to live in. There is even a historical nonfiction written about them...
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