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  1. I think of first 3 layers paint as a tint on sunglasses. Put a white paper behind one lens, put black cloth on the other. You could see how 2 lenses would look quite different. So if you want that blue to be brighter, paint white. If you want it deeper blue, paint darker blue or black. I used to think silver was as bright as white. But now I think of silver as gray, something that will make things a shade dark. Also, I share the concern of @Xeostar. Plastic paint might chip off. There is a way to test it. Leave it out in the sun for 3-7 days if the weather is dry. And leave it in front of a fan, blowing air on it for 24 hours. And beat it. Literally beat it to see if it chips. It's not a perfect test because the paint is only 99.5% cured after 4-8 days. That 0.5% could make it soft enough to endure some beating, but if it chips even a little, you know it will chip a lot more after 6 months. I have plastic paint on something, it stuck well and was flexible enough. But it wore out on sweaty palms... lol... (It was a BB air rifle stock)
  2. Oh, JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screw drivers definitely made a difference for me. Since that's mentioned already... [1] I'd go for a pair of curved scissors. They don't look impressive. But once you start using them, they just make it easier to cut bodies with. (Dexter approves) [2] The other is a brand, rather than a tool. I used X-Acto knives until about 25 years ago. But they were anything but exact. They'd get dull faster. So I preferred to use old school razor blades for scale model building. Razors get dull just as fast, but at least they were sharper than X-Acto. Once I found OLFA brand (made in Japan), I never looked back. As sharp as razor blades but stays sharper longer than razors. Tiny stickers that's wrapping around these 6 tail lights? These blades were very useful. [3] It isn't a tool, but I don't think I'll build any RC car without plastic-safe Teflon grease. It is stickier than Tamiya's ceramic grease. But because you only need a thin film of teflon, gears turn easier. Only oil like WD40 would be lighter. But you can't use WD40 (it can destroy plastic, and it won't last long anyway). But this grease have stuck on my Wild Willy 2 gears for 20 years, protecting even the aluminum pinion. You only need this much and it stays like this for decades. It's not any louder either. In my opinion, this is something Tamiya should sell as an optional aftermarket grease. (Then again, Tamiya doesn't sell LiPo to children. Maybe Tamiya thinks kids would eat it. While people fry eggs on teflon pans everyday, eating teflon grease won't be good for health...)
  3. hmm... I guess that makes sense. A shoulder cannot lift 1000 pounds even if a robot arm could. It is only as strong as where it's attached to. We see that with an aftermarket shock tower withstanding impact, but the plastic chassis can't. I'm sorry that you have gone through that experience. Thank you for letting us know, though. Collectively, we learned something. Maybe Jonathon's suggestion of limiting the throw would work?
  4. [1] Shock oil : It would depend on what kind of shocks you have. But in general I use Tamiya medium or light set. But it's personal taste. Tamiya instruction tends to give you harder spring and shock setting. But not for DT03. Its rear springs are too soft. Assuming spring rate is fine, you'll just have to go with a drop test for shock oil. Lift the car up like 10 inches, drop it. If springs don't react much, the oil is too heavy. If the chassis bottom out then the spring is too soft, and oil is too light. You would go for the most stable combination. The springs would compress enough (generally about half) to absorb the shock. But it would rebound once quickly enough. If it bobs up and down, the oil is too light. [2] Ball Diffs: For buggies, I use plumber's faucet grease that any hardware store would sell for about $4. Ball diff grease Tamiya sells is originally designed for on-road cars, I think faucet grease does better (as unsexy as it sounds). It is designed not to get washed out in hot and cold water. It will stick around and ball diff is far less likely to slip. I used it on DN-01 and I need to tighten less and the Limited Slip Differential effect is easier to control and stronger. https://smile.amazon.com/Waterproof-Silicone-Grease-1-Pack-88693/dp/B000DZFUPC/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=faucet+grease&qid=1600630225&sr=8-3 [3] Gear grease: I ended up setting for plastic safe Teflon grease designed for model trains. Very little resistance and it sticks around for decades. (My first tube was used on Wild Willy 2, 18 years ago, still going strong) If you are going Teflon, this much grease is all you need. I use 106 for everything, slightly stickier 206 for the pinion. But there are many different greases you can use, just don't use this much. [4] Thrust bearings: The go-to grease is Tamiya molybdenum grease. But I'm thinking @Carmine A's Anti-Seize grease might work well. If you are not going with Teflin, you might use this for the pinion gear. It's a grease designed to stick around, just like Tamiya molybdenum grease. (and a while lot cheaper too. I should get a tube and test it around) Come to think of it, I should have just given you the link... it wasn't long ago... let me look up...
  5. lol... @TurnipJF got my head turning around so fast I'm dizzy! You are going to double the sales of Karmann Ghia for Tamiya! Now I'm going to have to get both!
  6. Re-issued Boomerang isn't that old. So it would come up for sale again somewhere; like ebay. Availability all depends on who keeps what where and when they decide to sell. (The way I understand it, Tamiya never keeps on making anything. They make a batch for few weeks and distributed to the world. That's it. They move on to the next kit) How they are sold depends on the market. Right now might not be the best time to buy for certain cars though. I see Boomerangs listed for $350. That's twice as much as before pandemic. So yes, they are available even now, just that most of them are trying to sell at much higher price than before.
  7. It would drift if you lock it. So it would depend on how tight ball diff is or how sticky the grease is. I've seen a video of a Konghead spinning on one spot like a spinning top. Not going anywhere, just spinning and spinning. Even the Japanese guy who was driving it sounded surprised. That would never be possible with AW grease in the diffs. Forward momentum would be too much. You can apply the same principle to the tail-wagging of a RWD chassis. If the differentials are sticky, both wheels would want to spin more or less at the same ratio. Meaning, they would try to go forward, instead of spinning. Which would result in less turning at the rear. Which would mean less spinouts. Locked diffs spins in a different way. If locked, one or both wheels must lose traction at any turn. Then the chassis go with where the weight goes. Hence drifting. So the conclusion is, locking is bad, free rotating is also not good. I've got Bad Horsie diff lock pictured before, 3Racing diff grease, and differential putty too. But I found that for M-chassis, AW grease seems to be the best match. All these other things would be tad too sticky for M-chassis and nearly lock the diff. For DT02, which is indeed somewhat similar in the weight distribution, I use stickier diff grease. Traction has a lot to do with understeer, so sometimes a bit of a weight on the nose could be a quick and dirty way to fix the understeer on tarmac. Oh, man... @TurnipJF' Apline is gorgeous! I was going to get a Karman Ghia next, but now I'll have to get an Apline 110 first! Oh the fickle nature of a man... lol... Those rally tires would be perfect for that type of surface. In that case, I'd install Sport Tuned. Fitting for a rally set up too! And if using a hotter motor, steel pinion would be good too. (I'm lazy and cheap, so I just use teflon grease and call it a day. Gears just wear less with teflon. But I did see a 20 year old used car delivered with total paste of aluminum. That's bad, I had to get a steel pinon for that one -- it might have been TL01B) I have the same motor heatsink. Many M-chassis motors don't get a lot of air, and magnets in the motor don't like heat. If you are running stock, it's not really necessary. But for hotter motors, it might not be a bad thing to have. The same goes for steering. See how you like the stock steering on M06. If you find it sloppy, you can get a 3rd party kit. No 2 car would be set up the same way. No 2 people would do it the same way either. And if you want the best performance, you would use best tires for each surface. If you find it understeering, you might want to replace front 2 tires with super grip, for example. I'd check out what tires come with your kit first, though. I run mostly buggies, but I'm glad that I jumped into M chassis with M-06. I hope you like yours.
  8. Welcome to Tamiya Club! And your English is fine. 1) You don't even need Sport Tuned. I have a couple of Sport Tuned, but I chose NOT to install it on M06. It's quick enough. With more power, the easier it would be to lose control too. But of course, experimenting is a big part of RC, so it's up to you. 2) 20t supplied is good enough also. If you have Teflon grease, even aluminum pinion is fine. If you want steel pinion, that's fine too. 3) I haven't installed anti-roll bar, so I can't say. The stock version is fine for me. 4) It's very tail heavy. The nose is very light. So it drives like an old VW bug, if you have been in one. 5) I had installed oil shocks, but the front is so light, I drained the oil out of Front shocks (Yeah Racing shocks for about $25). I kept the stock Tamiya springs. 6) The rear can easily spin out, so my M06 came with S-Grip for the rear (M-Grip for the front). No need to buy new tires. 7) Aluminum steering kit is not necessary, in my opinion. The stock steering is precise enough. But spicing up is fun too. 8) I recommend using AW grease in your differential (I forget if it comes with it or not). Little bit of Limited-Slip-Differential action makes it easier to handle. Otherwise, the tail tends to spin out. There are sticky grease designed for diffs. (Below is too much stickiness for M06. But AW grease is just about right)
  9. Sorry, no clue. However, from the title, I thought Tamiya made something like this in Nitro!
  10. Sorry, I wish I had a Fox that's worth remembering. But sadly, mine is a beat up vintage runner. It has a new sway bar installed. But still has old carbon fiber sway bar holders because I'm lazy. (that rear tire does not fit the wheel by the way) The only thing that's memorable is this. Not an official sponsor of my Fox, by the way. I just had lots of those stickers.
  11. Everything is entirely up to you. Those male connectors are for the motor plate? If they make female connectors more secure, I'd use them. Even if you solder wires to the female plugs vertically. Or you could solder directly to the motor plate without connectors if the wires could be soldered securely. Some people even bypass the whole thing and solder directly from motor to ESC. (but that means no way to disconnect: if you upgrade your motor, you'd have to desolder and solder again) There is nothing wrong with using 4mm connectors in the middle also, the resistance isn't all the huge with 4mm connectors, so it should be fine. And it doesn't matter if they are soldered horizontally or vertically. As long as electrons can go through, it's all good.
  12. Like @Mad Ax said. Sometimes people put ball bearings in and end up connecting the motor and ESC wire backwards, + to - and - to +. To remedy that, they flip the reverse switch on the radio. Then going forward would be slower so they think something is wrong and sell it. So... if you haven't done it, you might connect the wire the other way around and flip the reverse switch. I don't know about XB, but even the most rudimentary radios tend to have servo reverse (in this case, throttle reverse).
  13. My guess is a droplet forming at the bottom of the nozzle. Which is essentially what @markbt73 already said. At the bottom of the nozzle sometimes a large droplet develops. When the compressed air blows on it, it makes smaller droplets. Think of little pool of water on the lip of an unopened beer can. If you blow on it, it will splatter all over. That's what could be happening. There are 2 things you could do. 1) Clean the nozzle after every spray. If the nozzle has a droplet hanging, I fling it away. If it doesn't fling away, I use a piece of a paper towel to dab it away. Then spray upside down for half a second. That keeps the nozzle clear for the next spray. (even if next spray is in 15 minutes) If you don't do this, the one large droplet at the chin of the nozzle will solidify, and provide a platform for more droplets next time. 2) Spray from about 30cm away and vertically. Even if some droplets form they fall to the ground. (of course above is not to scale, because that'd be one gigantic spray can) P.S. If you want, you could use @ before a member's name, that will highlight their IDs and they'll be notified.
  14. lol... that is right, it's not true scale. It is more like, "Tamiya came up with that scale back in 1970's and that's what we call most 12-15 inch long RC chassis."
  15. I am not against upgrading, but are you sure you want 4000kv? I think 13.5t should be plenty. I have always enjoyed Wild Willy2. It is mechanically same as comical Hornet. It's the one of few RC cars that I never upgraded the motor. It's not that I don't have motors laying around. I've got a few Sport Tuned and 13.5t motors that's not doing anything. But my WW2 just has ball bearings. It's just so easy to wheelie, a stronger motor would make it back flip. (however, Comical series are a bit more stable because they are not as top-heavy as WW2) So, if you want a bit more speed, I would go for a 13.5t. If you run it on sand, it'll be faster without wheeling. On a hard surface, you can do a bit of end point adjustment.
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