Juggular

Congratulations! I hope your new job turns into the best thing you've done. Staying curious helps. Ask yourself why they are doing things in a certain way. "Why we do it this way?" They might not even know why..."I don't know, this is how we do things here." That's not helping. Don't ask if they get annoyed with you. What can you do? But in trying to figure out why, you end up remembering more. Taking a note sounds good. One other thing I might suggest is to look over the note right before you go to bed. It doesn't have to be a thorough study. Just skimming over would do. The rest, your brain will take care of when you sleep. There were a lot of researches into this.

I have the same exact transmitter, but mine has been fine. The folded part is the weak point in any spring. I think a throttle return spring on Tamiya nitro engine broke on the same spot. Even Tamiya spring fails. You might try to make a loop on the broken end (without such a sharp angle). I often just pull out one loop from the broken end. I would not want half a circle, so I make sure to pull one complete circle. More likely than not, it would work. Hopefully it would work in your case.

That's why I try to fight my natural tendency to be an introvert... We live in a decaying age. Young people no longer respect their parents. They are rude and impatient. They frequently inhabit taverns and have no self control. That was written by some Egyptian dude 6000 years ago. I'd say humans haven't changed much. The people who calls everybody "sheeple!" are the sheep... lol... Humans are group animals anyway. We are followers by nature. There was one left turn on the way to work. Almost nobody turns on the blinker (winker?) there. Why not on that turn? We made a point of turning on the blinker there for years. After a couple years, everybody turned on the blinker. Did we lead? Or did we follow the few leaders who turned on the blinkers before we did? I don't know. But either way, humans follow. Hopefully, only good things like being respectful to others, and not some weird ideas like Flat Earth... lol... Instead spreading the Flat Earth theory, I'd say shut up and just Skydive! Even from a 4000 feet static-jump, you can kinda see the curvature of the earth--unlike the tiny view from the airplane window. "Physical engagement with the world is important" as @markbt73 said. Thank you! I tried to remember that for days. And I find the name in your thread! Yep, we all think we are "above average" when it comes to everything. An IQ 80 person would say, "well, I couldn't be that bad, I could be slightly above average." And IQ 180 would say, "well, I can't be that smart, I could be only slightly above average." Dumb people stay dumb because they think they know enough. Smart people get smarter because they underestimate themselves and keep learning. It ties with our own self-centered bias. Gamblers think they are "luckier than others"; that they don't belong to the statics that says the casino always wins. We think younger people are always rude and impulsive, when we might have been impulsive 20 years ago. lol... so true, it hurts... (but I rather have truth than sweet lies) From about several weeks ago, it hit me, 'I gotta stop buying stuff and actually DO things with stuff I already have!' I joined TC in 2004. I admit, I got my 'hit' for over a decade without even doing anything RC. I do still give likes, if only to encourage RC-anything, so I wouldn't be the only adult in the world playing with 'toys.' But yes, less screen-time, more dirt-time would be better! True too, but people said the same thing about our X-generation also. My dad didn't mince words, "Don't they teach you anything?" That's how baby boomers saw us. My handwriting is horrendous. Back in the days, when I brought a sick day note from my mom, my teacher said, "young man, you are not supposed to write the note yourself." He called my mom to double check it. I realized later that my mom and I have the same terrible handwriting. So in my 40s, I got a fountain pen and worked on my cursive, writing the silly the Quick Brown Fox thing over and over again --I don't think it helped much. But at least the baby boomers should be happy that a lazy, entitled and aimless X-gen is trying after all these years... lol... I agree coddling can ruin a person. If parents are the "best," why would anybody get a job and be married? As long as we don't spoil them, I'm sure this generation will learn too.

Yep, that makes it easier, but check to see if it allows the battery to cool down. One of my old chargers didn't let the battery cool down. I found the battery thoroughly cooked in the morning. What's the purpose of cycling it? To revive. Why design it to do the opposite? That's like going to a sleep therapy in the middle of a rock concert. (I wonder if that's how I became distrustful of instruction manuals?) Even the shrink wrap had melted down, and the battery wouldn't charge anymore. Sometimes people who manufacture things are not as smart as you are. Don't be like me. Don't use it if hurts things (like your eyes)... But I am with Biz73. I would recommend getting something like SkyRC imax B6 charger. And it's cheap, and it's one of those things you'll need sooner or later. I would prefer slow charge because the pack gets less heated. (or is it just how I perceive it because it's slower to heat?)

It seemed like their noses were too deep in the helmet. It looked hard to breathe. I shortened the noses to help with that. And I painted faces. Blue eyes this time. hmmm... the guy in the middle needs some work, but that's for tomorrow...

LOL, that was funny. I'm sitting here doing some plastic surgery and the computer screen beeps, and there is a *heated* discussion about "cooling." (in Americanish, doing surgery on plastic faces is called "plastic surgery" just so you know. And Rhinoplasty means plastic rhino --no, not really-- okay, Jonathon got me all confused now...)

Yes, Quicrun has become the standard, like Futaba S3003 servo used to be the standard servo back in the days. It's quite capable too. It can handle motors down to 12t motor, and input voltage up to 11.1v. And waterproof. I have not used that voltage regulator. I suppose it could work. Just make sure the plugs are compatible.

Welcome back to the hobby! Every ESC should have BEC built into it. I am not familiar with TEU ESCs. All I know is TEU units give full voltage to the receiver, which might not be good if the receiver and servos are designed for 6v. But more recent TBLE02S ESC limits the voltage to 6v. Of course, Quicrun ESC also does the same. I suppose the trend has been to have the ESC control the voltage than to have the receivers do it. After all, regulating the current is what ESC does. Almost all of us have started RC sometime in the past and gotten back to it again. If you post your questions, I'm sure 99% will be answered.

Started on painting 6 drivers. (I was going to paint shells, but outside was foggy with tree pollen. This can be done indoors.) 3 are Bigwig style guys with steering wheels. 1 is Grasshopper-style driver. 2 in the middle are just heads for Lexan shoulders. They are traditionally painted in bank-robber style. But I figure goggle-style looks less suspicious. The molding is done in such a way that it could be painted either way. I know I have a couple of Frog drivers, + the red helmet from Wild One. But I can't find them. Oh well, they'll turn up. I'll do eyebrows and eyes tonight.

Why don't you try cycling it? Fully charge, let it cool, drain, let it cool, fully charge again, let it cool, drain again, let it cool.... repeat the cycle 7-8 times. Sometimes NiMH can come alive --if it's only mostly dead. "There is big difference between mostly dead and all dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive. All dead, there is only one thing you can do." (Miracle Max)

Welcome to Tamiya Club! Electricity is the same whether it comes from NiCd, NiMH, LiPo or LiFe. Only the voltage and the amp makes difference. Going from 7.2 to 7.4v isn't large enough to make difference. Motors can also use any battery. LiPos generally allow larger amp draw. If you have a faster motor, it could go faster. For a crawler, you would not have a low turn motor. So it won't make much difference on amp either. The real difference is --as Willy pointed out-- the ESC. ESCs have amp limit. But for a 2S 3C battery running a 27t motor would be just fine. But LiPos will Die, if it goes below certain voltage. That's why some ESCs have voltage cut-off. Tamiya's TBLE02S doesn't have a voltage cut off for LiPo. So, I would get a voltage alarm. (You can get a voltage alarm for $2 to $3). You can plug the balance lead to it. Other ESCs like Quicrun 1060, has a voltage cutoff, so you don't need an alarm. If you don't want to plug it every time, get a larger capacity LiPo like 4000mAh. Run it once, see how long it takes for the alarm to go off. If it takes 45 minutes to go off, run it only for 25 to 30 minutes. In conclusion, I would order a voltage alarm when I'm ordering the LiPo. A fireproof bag too (cheap ones are about $3-6). Good luck!

Taught myself how to solder copper pipes. An elbow joint was leaking. It was all green from the oxidation or corrosion. My wife put something under the elbow to catch water. She'd drain it every other week. Not much. But it might spring a bigger leak. Like the Dutch boy who plugged a hole with a finger, then an arm, and a leg, and a head, etc. I'll just put some heat on, and solder it like a motor! Apparently, that's not how it works. It would not stick. I just charred the heck out of it. Then I tried to pull it apart. It won't come off either. (Later I discovered that the water heater was pushed into the direction of the wall, like 2 inches. Which might be the reason why it sprung a drip. I decided to cut it. Thank goodness for the reciprocating saw attachment. Black & Decker Matrix is awesome for small jobs like this. It took some effort, but "Honey I sweated the pipes!" No more leaks! I let everything cool down, wiped off the water-soluble flux. Even flushed the tank, which had some calcification. Then... to my dismay... I discovered that the 57-year-old main valve was leaking... Instead of removing water every other week, now I have to do it every hour. drip drip drip drip drip... I can't win today... When my wife was about to call a plumber, I tightened the packing nut. (I'm not kidding, that's the name of the nut) No more dripping noise. All Quiet on the Western front. My wife was so happy she allowed me to spend $300. I don't want anything, but I'll keep the credit.

Yes, Bigwig instruction is definitely odd. The other thing that I deviated is the grease on the collar (C7). Why grease the contact point with the chassis? It's bolted. I didn't grease where they indicated. I greased on the inside, on the red part below (though the neck of the gear is already greased). Over the years, I came to see these oddities as "Tamiya easter eggs." I wonder if we discover all the eggs, we get to own the controlling stocks of Tamiya, maybe?

That doesn't look like a charger. It will drain one cell with higher voltage, down to equilibrium. IMAX B6 costs not much more than that. B6 balances too. Back in the days, something like imax b6, would cost $200. Now it's about $35-$40. The mini version is tiny too--just about 4inch (10cm) across. There is nothing wrong with starting slowly. Get a cheap NiMH, and when you are fully back into RC, get a LiPo. The difference is the amp drain. Especially with hotter motors or brushless motors. TT02b would go 58km/h with a 10.5t motor, but it would go 66km/h with LiPo. 10% improvement isn't too bad just for switching the battery. Something to look forward to in the future. OMG... lol... it survived the fire in Baghdad, but not the water? I hope it survived, or at least easily fixable.

Yeah, I've seen somebody running like that. There are few Tamiya cars with that problem. I realized that Tamiya instructions aren't some religious texts, so I learned to be flexible. You can use one O-ring, or the pink sponge thing Tamiya sells. Whatever could remove the slop and still not bind. I made mini springs out of a ball-point pen and put them in. The way Tamiya did the servo is weird, indeed. No bolt or anything! Maybe Tamiya instruction missed out the double-sided tape under the servo? I thought I was supposed to put double sided tape under the servo supporter thingies, attaching them to the chassis. Tamiya instructions are known to miss things once in a while. But even if you don't use the double sided tape under the B1 and B7 columns, the neck is secured by the C7 collar. B1 and B7 columns are there so the servo wouldn't twist up and down. I was concerned about the strength of one piece of double-sided tape under the small footprint of B1 and B7. I was going to use the ultra strong 5 pound red tape. (Seriously, that stuff might keep a bowling ball attached to the side of a chimney in a stormy day.) But amazingly, even with the regular double-sided tape, the servo worked fine in a parking lot run. The servo would be really secure because of the tapes top and bottom of the servo. I didn't use the cover for now... ESCs and RXs are so small these days, there is plenty of room also. ECO20 ESC uses the bottom casing as a heatsink. So, instead of using a piece of double-sided tape, I used two screws and a zip tie to keep it in place. I also cut a square piece from the flexible yellow sprue, and screwed it so the wire won't touch the rotating shaft. That's one screw for the cover, and the other one is securing the ESC by hooking a ziptie, in my case.