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I think I got my Arrowmax after you did. Mine is still perfectly fine (granted, I've only used to build only 2-3 chassis). I'm still loving them.
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You could just use 1 motor. Like @FuzzyFlynn said, the diff can be flipped. So you don't have to worry about the direction. I've seen a Japanese dude selling a shaft extension for MB-01. Or maybe it was just a longer shaft. All you had to do was to drill a hole on the cover. The problem for MB-01 was that the shaft couldn't go anywhere because of the battery. (Unless you have a saddle pack.) But BT-01 has the battery raised up, so that the shaft could reach the rear diff. So something like that would make it 4x4. (And it might come with a cover with a hole on this side already.) EDIT: I found the video. I remembered wrong. He just stuck a 3D printed shaft to the gear. I don't think that's the most secure way. I wish Yeah Racing or Jazrider could make a longer shaft that could connect to both drive shafts. Anyway, it could be done with 1 motor.
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Yes, that's an awesome idea. I use motor oil. When I did a test, a drop of light machine oil increased RPM immediately like 100RPM (if I remember correctly). I didn't use motor oil at that time. And that was at 3.7v. You'd gain more RPM at 7.4v. So I'm all for lubricating the bushings. The pinion-side is hard to get to. 10-30w motor oil is thicker than machine oil. But it should last quite a long time. After all, it was designed to protect 1:1 engine's crankshaft for 30,000 miles. A drop of motor oil should last at least 300 hours of running. (Basically for the life of the kit) I have a box fan that's running 24 hours for 365 days a year (to remove radon). It also has bushings. I lube the shaft with motor oil every 3-4 months. That's every 2000--3000 hours. If I don't lube it, it would seize in about 18 months. By then, there would be a noticeable gap between the shaft and the bushings. Just like some 540 motors I have, which won't run anymore. (They came with used chassis.) I doubt that bushings would go that bad if motor oil was used. This fan ran for about 26,000 hours (3 years continuously). It runs as good as new. I forgot to write down the dates for the first and second lube. Since the 3rd one was January 2022, I think I got this fan in 2021. Before this fan, I had tried Tamiya ceramic grease, various machine oils, my favorite teflon greases and SuperLube. But 2 other boxfans before died within 3 years. There were 4 other smaller fans that also didn't last 3 years. 3 years is still twice as long as not lubing. But the best seems to be a drop of motor oil every 3-4 months. (sometime I went 6-7 months between lubes.) Why doesn't Mabuchi ship it with semi-synthetic motor oil? Most Tamiya kits don't come with bearings. My guess is that they want the least viscous oil, so the motor can run as fast as possible, even if the bushings don't last as long. Besides, synthetic oil is too expensive for a $5 motor. If I get a new bottle, I'd get thinner 5-20w. But this $2.50 bottle I got 8 years ago will probably last for the rest of my life. I use one drop at a time with a toothpick. For most of us, a silvercan without additional lube will last seasons. And it's not an expensive motor to replace. But lubing would help. If you are worried about not being able to get to the pinion side, use motor oil only on that side of the shaft. So you won't have to lube again. And the tail end can be lubed with lighter oil every season. Or use motor oil on both ends and forget about lubing for the next 300 hours.
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Instead of finding the actual shock tower, I found a photo of it with a 4 inch shock. This is how it would look. This isn't Wild Dagger, but Konghead. But the front profile should be nearly identical.
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I used to use the glue with a needle. Like that Revell stuff, only it was Testors, I think. But 9 years ago, I've switched to limonene glue. It's supposed to be non-toxic. As I get older, I don't want to invite health problems. Tamiya has regular and thin. I got pen types in both regular and thin. These tend to be slower setting, instead of 1 minute cure, it'd take like 3 minutes. But I haven't found that to be a problem at all. If a day goes by and you discover that you glued a wrong thing? You might have a slight luck taking it off, if you used limonene. It's tiny bit weaker. Again, I never found that to be a problem either. (But don't get these if you have small children. These smell like oranges. No matter how non-toxic these are, it can't be good for swigging.) (Tamiya Extra thin Limonene below) I've used limonene on helmets, and they are plenty strong for this too. If I need a structural strength (like a broken ankle of a robot kit or something), I use very toxic and very smelly Plastruct Plastic Weld. This lives far away from me. Even with 3 layers of zip-locks, almost all of it evaporated after 3 years or so.
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Tamiya window masks are exceptionally weak. With some exaggeration, I think yellow sticky note might be stronger. It's good enough to stick well on flat surfaces. But it doesn't stick well when the lexan surface curves like where the window meets the frame. Which is what they are used for. It always lifts on the edges and allow paint to seep in. Fortunately, most Tamiya shells come with stickers on the outside to cover the imperfection. Because of that, I have not minded some seepage. If I have to mask in curvy surfaces without seepage, I use the thick vinyl masking lines. This stuff is expensive, so if I order a bunch of things from PlazaJapan, I add one. One roll is only like $2.50 if I order directly from Japan. https://www.amazon.com/Masking-Tape-Curves-Tamiya-Japan/dp/B075HJBQY9/ref=sr_1_3_mod_primary_new?crid=1AQSY3DXW97QA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.vzkWdXqanc5h_GgGITUYu-x6yOWCsLq1Po_djjSiLIqfVhp5u9eQOY0m6m72hGz7F9DfrvOKcLc5B0gjDzrMyi1cZcqOUb7x6buPhwHGqIBoxF5iXMEbVvu1o7lpWT0MV1Ac1QZd41KuDlV8FS5w0E4rJ646E74l1TEIXgpEz8mtTb7adAB0jNt_fokt0pIX0klmqy5XSYY8iCWqqiIFIQMY0N-1yL0kNrot7oRh2Rf86l_xBIatpe4XANxv2hkiPq7SZdZqLGXMM60j0ta67b-YFH2MRRBj_ZVPq7rIfcY.6V56qG1OWpmIN0QU-WPQ6oPp-MoWD_Sy4mn7n2hEc_E&dib_tag=se&keywords=tamiya+masking+tape+for+curves&qid=1710450554&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=tamiya+masking+tape+for+curves%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-3
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Low Profile Servos and ESC compatibility
Juggular replied to CKU87's topic in All things electric...
I've heard of JX doing weird stuff like that. I've seen some youtube drifter claiming injora is better. So I'm giving that a try. -
Low Profile Servos and ESC compatibility
Juggular replied to CKU87's topic in All things electric...
It's Hobbywing that's stupid for making it so short. Not you. -
Low Profile Servos and ESC compatibility
Juggular replied to CKU87's topic in All things electric...
There are many Chinese brands that came and went. But as mentioned, Tamiya seems to like Hobbywing more than their own stuff. My brand new 2024 MB-01 came with it. We hear of problems that came from Tamiya's decision not to include $2 BEC function. But hardly any complaint on Hobbywing ESCs. But of course, some people want to keep things Tamiya, and that's fine. The BEC on TBLE-02S has 6V 1.5A rating. I have half a dozen TBLE02S, and I like them. -
Low Profile Servos and ESC compatibility
Juggular replied to CKU87's topic in All things electric...
The reviews on TSU-06 isn't so great. Ever since my Tamiya transmitter went dead, I am suspicious of electronic things from Tamiya. (The radio came with Terra Crusher. That was 20 years ago, but you can still find Tamiya ESCs without BECs) They are outperformed by cheap Hobbywing 1060 (which has proper 6v BEC). Now, even Tamiya is including Hobbywing 1060s in some kits. I would just use 1060, it's only $12. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804229716670.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.35314b39nc3E24&algo_pvid=4fdf73e1-ecd1-4f4f-a529-3096404710a7&algo_exp_id=4fdf73e1-ecd1-4f4f-a529-3096404710a7-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!12.41!12.41!!!12.41!12.41!%402101fb0d17103551742728753e663f!12000029106930274!sea!US!2630314545!&curPageLogUid=62ZuulE8pryy&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A If you don't want to waste a lot of ESCs you already have, you can install a 6V BEC for $2.60. You can put 20V on this thing, and it will still bring it down to 6V. For the price of one TSU-06, you can get 10 of these and still buy 2 cheaper, faster, and stronger metal gear servos. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832542099018.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.413d77a3tnfiAS&algo_pvid=7fa9e489-a9c1-4321-9959-22fbca19ddba&algo_exp_id=7fa9e489-a9c1-4321-9959-22fbca19ddba-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!2.60!2.60!!!2.60!2.60!%402103297517103584398736366e9a0a!12000037173611345!sea!US!2630314545!&curPageLogUid=BsLpPliYIo1B&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A TSU06 has 3.5kg of torque. But it is fast: 0.09 second. And 25g is light. Savöx 1251 has 9kg of torque, at 0.09 second, and it weighs 45 grams, Here is something I ordered. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802851307070.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.28a01802feyLMr&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa This Injora Servo has 14kg of torque, about 0.08 second speed, but it weighs 50 grams. Even if the specs are 25% bloated, it would have 10kg of torque, 0.1 second of speed. For $15, that's pretty good. -
Anything would be better than the stock size (which is basically on-road size). 4 inch shocks are relatively rare though. I don't remember any Tamiya chassis mounting 4 inch shocks. But Traxxas does. I got some used ones on ebay. People get a new Traxxas and install nicer 3rd party shocks, and sell stock ones on ebay. They are decent shocks though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134409857445 I got 2 of these years ago, but I haven't even installed them. I'll have to dig out that tower from somewhere and see if 4 inch fits. This does look similar to that carbon fiber tower.
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I would have thought they were neodymium magnets. Brushed motors have black ferrite magnets. Those are also called ceramic magnets. Because brushless could only have a smaller core, I always imagined the core was stronger neodymium. (Unless they are called ceramic too?). I'm learning something everyday!
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Tamiya Motor Bullet Connectors....
Juggular replied to Brooklyn Nights's topic in General discussions
That's the kind of mistake I would make. So yes, that's an excellent idea. I also try to have the soldering point or bullet connectors at different lengths, so that the positive and the negative sides don't line up. Less chance of shorting this way. -
It works by having many little feet jamming in one way. One-way bearing can be useful, if you lose traction in a corner. As you know, within each axle, the left wheels (A and C) rotate more than the right wheels when a car is turning right (like the below diagram). The differentials in the axle allow the difference in turning rate. What if there is no differential like the Sand Rover? It spins out or flips easily because both wheels fight for traction. ("I wanna turn more" vs "I wanna turn less"). The same can happen in a 4x4 setting. The front 2 wheels don't turn at the same rate as the rear 2 wheels when turning. (A+B rotates more than C+D in a corner.) Since 4x4s don't allow that, it tends to spin out easily on ice (when turning). To get rid of that problem, All-Wheel-Drives in 1:1 cars have 3 differentials (unlike traditional 4x4s that only have a transfer case, which is basically a clutch to engage the front axle). The 3rd differential is in the center to allow the front 2 wheels to rotate more. That's why AWDs do better on ice than 4x4s. But most RC cars are 4x4s, not AWDs. Out of 600+ RC cars sold by Tamiya, only a few have a differential in the center. It adds a lot more parts and weight, which will slow down the acceleration (not to mention the extra cost). But most of us just use our RC cars as bashers. So, instead of a center differential, you could install a one-way bearing in the front axle. When the front 2 need to rotate more in a corner, they will be free-wheeling. At that moment, only the rear 2 will have power. (Luckily, corners are where people tend to slow down). The front and the rear axles do not have to fight against each other for traction. So the front free-wheeling allows all 4 wheels to stay on track without spinning out. When the car gets to a straight line it will be 4x4 again. Or if the rear axle happens to slip and rotate at the same rate as the front 2, suddenly the front 2 will engage and turn into 4x4 again. Installing a one-way bearing is a way to disengage the front power in a corner, so the car won't spin out. Useful if you are racing. If you are bashing? It's not good. It disables reverse from the front wheels, so you'd have to back out of a ditch using only the rear wheels.
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I agree. Wild Dagger has very long arms. But short shocks limit the travel. If you install taller shock towers and shocks, it's going to be more off-road capable than the new Squash Van. Since one of the motors has to turn in reverse, you may want to start with silvercans. Other motors such as Sport Tuned are timed, so you can't use them. The reversing motor would be much slower than the one that's turning the right way. But having two motors mean each will have less load to deal with. Plus, modern LiPo batteries are lighter. So the silvercans are fine for me. If you want faster motors, you can look into 550 motors.