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Juggular

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  1. Limiting the throttle sounds reasonable. The burden will fall on the ESC, but it should be fine. Electronic Speed Control cuts and connects electricity many times in a second. Allowing the electricity to flow 10 times a second would be slower than 50 times per second. 100 times would be faster...all the way up to the top speed. Full connection would take the least effort on the part of the ESC. At that point, it's not doing the hard work of flicking the switch on and off. Modern ESCs are sturdy enough, you don't really have to worry about destroying it by running it at 40-50%. It will just create more heat. At 0%, an ESC will generate no heat because you are not using it. At 100%, it will generate the least heat because the electricity simply flows through it without being cut. 99% will generate the most heat because it has to connect and disconnect hundreds of times a second. I should think 40% would run cooler than 99%. But still quite a bit more than at 100%. So if you are using a Hobbywing 1060 with a fast 12t motor (which is its maximum limit), I would not run it at 0-50% only. But, if you are running a 27t silver can, even running at 99% all the time shouldn't be a problem. If you find that the ESC is hot to the touch, get a cheap $2 ESC fan and hot glue it right in front of the ESC (it doesn't have to be right on top of it). As for motors, the faster they are, the greater the wear (especially for brushed motors). So running it at 50% would mean adding 50% to its longevity.
  2. I feel odd about odd numbered wheels... but 3 wheels should enough to drive around the kitchen table (which has even-4 legs). This was an impulse buy. My box of bearings didn't contain some of the weird bearings like 6x10x3mm. They will take weeks to be delivered from China.
  3. I'd say any experiment is fun. You could use a heat sink to cool the motor. But the gear ratio of 9.5:1 is quite low. I don't think the motor would get hot enough to need a heat sink. (but I like to use heat sink anyway) Or you can use the End Point Adjustment on your transmitter to limit the throttle down to 70% or so. It would run slower, and it wouldn't get hot. But if you want, you can experiment with a 380 motor. The biggest difference might be from its weight. 540 motor weighs about 190 gram. 380 motor weighs 71 gram. That's as much as 21 quarter coins (or sixteen 1 Euro coins). The weight change can turn it into a new chassis. The tail end would get much lighter. Theoretically, MF-01X should behave more like a mid engine car. If you want it to perform better, you can get "380 Sport Tuned" motor. Less than half the weight, faster speed, but less torque. Below video was for the FDR (Final Drive Ratio) of 6.6, which is why it accelerated slower. But for FDR of 9.5 (MF-01X), it might be a good fit.
  4. It's one of those things that once people have it, they don't let it go. You've heard about Juggernaut 1? (I hadn't: this gear got stripped in the first 2 minutes and wouldn't mesh anymore--Tamiya USA back in 2002 was nice enough to send me upgrade parts to Juggernaut 2. But those upgrade parts don't exist anymore, if it does, it could cost as much as another Jugg.) I see Juggernauts coming up on ebay. But half of them are Jugg 1s. Not many people know about the flaw of bevel gears stripping. Below is Jugg 2. The shaft got longer to resist bevel gears spreading part. Gear ratio also changed to lessen the load. I would make sure to get Jugg 2.
  5. Wait until your friend starts to forget what all the cars and parts were for. My friend* only vaguely remembers. Bronco body goes with TLT-1, I think (I mean he thinks). Was the Honda S800 shell for M05? or was it M07? Did he have enough parts for 1 FAV or 2 FAVs? Did he buy a Lancia Stratos shell or did he dream it? Ah, it was Fiat Abarth 1000... but for which chassis? Maybe he thought he should get another M06 chassis, but I forgot (I mean he forgot).
  6. That was a good deal. I tried to make an impulse buy, but it says; There are no shipping methods available for International (Hong Kong) warehouse. How is that "Global warehouse" is not delivering? Did Hobbyking changed to brick & mortar store? Is it only for people in Hong Kong? If so, why is that in English? I'm disappointed (to my wife's delight). Maybe I should get a GMade Bom, MST CMX (or CFX) or TRX4 kit instead...
  7. 9-12kg is relatively common now. For my Wild Willy2, I thought the standard servo was too weak, especially since it has heavy resin body. Below is the spec for the "Old standard" Futaba S3003. Get something more torquey than this. Speed: 0.23 sec60 4.8V 0.19 sec60 6V Torque: 44 oz-in (3.2 kg-cm) 4.8V 57 oz-in (4.1 kg-cm) 6V Dimensions: 1.6 x 0.8 x 1.4 (1-916 x 1316 x 1-716) (40 x 20 x 36mm) The reason why it's hard to say, "use this servo" is because there are so many. Practically all of them are from China, no matter the brand. Digital is accurate in keeping to certain angles you want. That's important for airplane's ailerons, rudders and elevators. Not so much for cars. Digital draws more amp. So generally analog would do fine for backyard bashers. Anything above 6kg would do fine for CG. About 0.2 to 0.25 second is fast enough for bashers. Keep to the same dimensions because there are mini servos and giant servos that look similar in photos. (Most of the times, 1mm deviation won't hurt) Some brands have different splines, but often Tamiya includes servo savers for most of them. (25 teeth is most common, I think)
  8. Yes, I meant 3rd shock. I looked up 4 link suspension. It's so good, it's like a different car entirely. It was just convenient to mount the shocks upside down. I don't think they behave differently.
  9. Now that's tempting. The kit version is different from RTR version, isn't it? No shifting gears, and locking diffs on the fly or something?
  10. Yep, that's how it was before it turned into CW01. I put in the Hornet parts so the gearbox could pivot. Fishing line mod wasn't entirely successful. There was no room for the 3rd gear, either. So I put a piece of sponge as an interim measure. I'm curious as to see your 4-link suspension.
  11. Have you considered Konghead? It used the same gears as Comical Grasshopper (just a lot more to make it 6x6). Lots of bearings are needed, so I'd recommend $3 per 10 bearing deals you can find on ebay and what not. (Look up "5x11x4mm bearings.") Rubber shielded ones seal better than metal shielded ones. (Below lot was about $8 worth--off the top of my head, I think you need more than 30 bearings for Konghead) Flysky FS-GT3C is about $40 - $45. Cheap and reliable. EPA function is included. I like it precisely because the receivers are dirt-cheap. Every new car you buy, you only need to spend $7 more per car. (I got a dozen for about $6 each to retrofit vintage cars) I'm not racing or anything, so Flysky has been good enough for me, even after adding a dozen cars. Because you've got small kids, I'd stick with NiMH batteries. They are not as strong as LiPo, but NiMH is far less likely to catch fire. For a charger, "SkyRC iMax B6" has become a non-official standard charger that can charge practically anything. Mine requires a power supply (I'm using one made for a laptop computer). They sell a bigger one with a power supply included in the case. I would stick with a brushed motor for now. It's just easier to deal with a brushed motor than brushless. No need to solder. And you are using it in your backyard. You probably don't want 60km/h speed. That's too much kinetic force around kids. If the kit you buy doesn't come with an ESC, Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 would run you about $17. It's cheap, but it's capable. But with kids about, I'd stick with the silver can (or Sport Tuned motor). Servos have gotten cheaper too. Hobbyking sells dozens of different kinds for less than $10. For Konghead, I'd use this servo. 13kg is 3 times as strong as good old Futaba S3003 servo. I still have a lot of Futaba servos from 20 years ago. They are just gathering dust. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-high-torque-servo-mg-bb-w-proof-12-8kg-0-22sec-58g.html
  12. hmm... I still can't edit most things. If it's a one-liner, sometimes I could edit, though.
  13. That's right, TBLE02S doesn't have "LiPo" setting. You can use any source of 7.2V-ish electricity, granted that you provide an alarm to protect the battery.
  14. I think self tappers are more forgiving. If the plastic shrinks 0.3mm after coming out of injection molds, it's no big deal for self tapping screws. It will make a hole as it goes in. If the plastic shrinks less than expected? Still no big deal. Assuming that the plastic can withstand the tapping process. (I also cracked Black Foot chassis once, by over-tightening) Bigger bite is brutal, but it's "good enough" for most soft plastic. But if the hole is 0.3mm bigger or smaller, that could be a big problem for the machine screws with less pronounced threads. So, if the hole came out perfect in size, maybe Tamiya "prescribes" machine screws, maybe? That'd be my wild guess... DN01 uses machine screws. Perhaps because they used harder plastic. Boy, was it difficult to use machine screws when few holes were smaller. The friction was so much on fiber-reinforced plastic, it heated the screw enough to burn my fingers after unscrewing it. I've seen machine screws more often when screws get longer--because self tappers are somewhat tapered, the length is limited. Also self tappers are easier to avoid cross-threading, at least to me. You back out a turn, and you feel the screw sinking, and then you tighten. But machine screws, you can't tell if you are cross threading or not. If you repeatedly cross thread it, the hole is ruined. So, I kinda prefer self tappers when possible.
  15. Since I have WW2, I don't seem to want comicals. I like military vehicles like Fast Attach Vehicle, XR311, etc. So if I had a comical, I'd probably want WW2. I tend to think that the heavier body of WW2 is a good thing. I can easily simulate comicals by removing the resin body and run it "naked." (I'm sure every Willy owner had done it at one point) Somehow it's no fun running WW2 without the body.
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