Juggular

At least your mistake wasn't as dangerous as what I did two months back. I was trimming a bush outside. I cut off the power extension cord hanging next to it. Seeing a spark flying was fun for a second, but that could have been very dangerous. (Fortunately, it's only 110v here) Anyway, some people just cut off the switch and connect red and black together. You put the battery in, and it's on. This option is not good if you are one of those very friendly folks who stand around and have a chat with everybody who's passing by. It's safe to turn it off. Any Radioshack switch would do. If they are not around anymore, ebay has them for about $2 USD. It takes weeks to deliver though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-RC-Switch-JR-Futaba-Connector-On-Off-with-Spare-Male-Plug-ss/164443096888?hash=item2649928738:g:wD8AAOSwtC5ehw7O

I'd say it's somewhere in the middle, and there is some science to it. Here is a tale of 2 tanks. Below is from Takom of China. In the pursuit of "perfection," Chinese kit makers competed to add more and more details. They ended up ignoring that kit builders are humans. 1000 parts just for tracks! I can't even pick up the parts. How could I file and sand those little things to fit into those tiny grooves? This requires a dedicated commitment to win a real war. But I only want to have some fun building it (besides, that war ended 100 years ago). I have to disagree with their definition of "perfection." On the other hand, Tamiya's version (below) allows you to just snap on. A hobby should be less like a punishment. Mk VI is as posable as a brick, which would be boring, so Tamiya put in a motor. I would have preferred some crude interior instead, but a motor is cool too. So, which do we want? A perfect representation of each link? Or something fun to play with? In this case, I'd go with Tamiya. In case of TRX4, it's the other way around. It's too easy, too perfect. There is no involvement, no physical commitment. Many of us don't like RTRs because we don't get involved in the process of making it ours. It's the IKEA effect. According to the science, the "perceived contribution" should be high, but the effort should be easy. That's why Tamiya's instructions are easy to follow. Tamiya does not even ask you to rummage through your tackle box to find the proper weight. That's a delay and a hassle. So Tamiya simply includes the weight to make it easy to build a scale jet fighter. Because Tamiya doesn't want this to happen... On the other end of the spectrum, Tamiya would never fully switch to RTR. Because we must "contribute." With contribution, our attachment to the kit becomes 5 folds. (I'm sure the girl above still likes that chair better than usable chair other people made) That's the IKEA effect. In 1940s, they had dried milk and dried egg powders in the cake mix. You just pour water and bake. But the cake mix didn't sell. How did they fix it? They made it more complicated. They took out the egg powder. Now, you have to crack a few eggs to bake. You are more involved! It's easy, but you feel like you've done a lot. And cake mixes started to sell again. That's another IKEA effect. I think Tamiya understands this IKEA effect very well. I sometimes get the feeling that they underestimate us and relies too heavily on the IKEA effect. Fix the ORV diff problem, already! But... that's just me. I often forget that I might not be the target audience. I think the vast majority of Tamiya's RC revenue comes from people who buy 1 or 2 RC cars in their life time. A school boy who buys Lunchbox for Christmas and forgets all about it until after he's married later and buys a CC-01. He's the target. Would he know or care that Tamiya has re-boxed CC01 40 times? (I don't know the exact number) So, Tamiya's goal is making something "good enough to sell" for the maximum profit (which means the least effort --still, enough effort to let us know how CC01's rear diff needs spacers would be nice). For folks like us, who know the Tamiya's lineup like back of our hands, Tamiya seems rather lazy. But they are right on target when it comes to the IKEA effect. I'd say that Tamiya's goal is to deliver 1) easy build experiences with 2) reasonable performance 3) in good style 4) at reasonable prices. It's never about the best ground clearance, fastest speed or the most supple suspension. Sales revenue and Perfection are two different things. And, to their credit, their R&D puts out enough "fun" RC vehicles like Konghead, Dancing Rider, Lunchbox Mini, M-chassis every year. If they can easily sell thousands of DT02 by slapping on a dazed bear? why not? Tamiya's perfection is being perfectly in the middle somewhere. And I'm somewhat okay with that.

If, by any chance, "wrong way" means painting it on the outside of the Lexan shell, you can just peel the protective film. Things are not that convenient, usually.

I think Hobbywing 80A crawler ESC might. http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=543 It says "Brushed Motor Limit with 2S LiPo > 10t. So yeah, that might handle LiPo and down to 10t. I don't know about crawler ESCs, but at full throttle, it's got to give 100% current, right? Just more control at low end, I suppose.

I always wondered if there was a way to fix the torque twist. (That is a lot of twist) What if the propeller shafts were spinning faster? Counter gears would be located on the axles themselves. If you could make the universal spin twice as fast, it could have half as much torque-twist. Slap on portal gears, the propeller shafts can turn 3 times as fast. Instead of 12 degree torque twist, TXT-3 could have only 4 degree twist. It would be a lot more stable. Tamiya already has portal gears. \ Seeing as how TXT-2 didn't change whole lot from TXT-1, I doubt that Tamiya would do anything substantial.

Plumber's faucet grease could help too. We all know how ball diffs behave. With Tamiya ball diff grease, it's basically on or off. You tighten almost to the point of it snapping, and you back out to find that tiny spot or else it's got no traction. You have to tighten more if the car is heavier. I've snapped the screw twice on the center diff of TLT-01. I was hoping Tamiya changed the formula with DN01 Zahhak. But it was same exact watery grease they've been using in on-road cars for 20+ years. (I get it. It's cheaper for the corporation to use the same grease for on or off road) Again, I had to tighten almost at the limit of the tensile strength of the screw. Since I had a bad experience with TLT-01, I unscrewed it, I wiped the Tamiya ball diff grease clean, and used faucet grease instead. Interestingly, I did not have to tighten as much. You can do about 1/5th of a turn less to get as tight as before. And there is more room for adjustment. Instead of it being about 10 degrees of useful angle, it's like 20 degrees. The screw gets a lot less stress. Faucet grease is designed to stick and not get washed out, even in hot water. Plastic safe too. It's the same kind of silicone grease. Just stickier. I may still use watery Tamiya ball diff grease for on-road cars. But for off-roaders? I'm using faucet grease.

According to Dunning and Kruger, one should never call anybody an idiot. Only the person who has reached the pinnacle of human intellect could call others idiots. Even Einstein was wrong about the Quantum physics. That proves nobody is smart enough to call others idiots. Those who do, thinks he is smarter than others. Which means he will not try to be smarter anymore. He'll likely end up at the bottom of the barrel when others are striving. I never called anybody an idiot. By not doing that, I'm desperately hoping that I might turn out not to be an idiot! If you think about the whole psychology, those who say that they are an idiot might actually be quite smart! (In hindsight, Dunning-Kruger effect is part of the Sicilian logic! The Princess Bride had figured it all out back in 1987!) Going back to the topic, I was quite disappointed with Juggernaut 1. But I don't regret it. Tamiya USA sent me an upgrade kit to Jugg 2. It was one and only time I remember that Tamiya did sort of a "recall" by shipping out upgrades for free. That was a good support from Tamiya. I ended up getting 2 dozen more, so your support worked, Tamiya! Terra Crusher was also disappointing. .18 engine couldn't handle the weight of 5.7kg (TXT-2 weighs 4kg). But just by slapping on HPI tires, it got quite fast. So I don't regret that either. It baffles me to this day why Tamiya thought putting on lead tires was a good idea. The 2 tires you see in below background? Those 2 tires weigh more than 1 Hornet! (I wonder if these costly flops made Tamiya shy of new products, and focus more on re-releases?) But you only live once. You learn, and you move on. (or...I might be too slow to regret. If I got nothing in my head, I can't regret! But having had two of the heaviest Tamiya 4x4s give me headaches, I'd be weary of heavy weights... if Tamiya ever sells 1/5th buggy, I'm going to wait for real reviews) Not waiting for reviews resulted in this. Mad Bison looked good. But Tamiya decided to go cheap and put the counter gear at the bottom. Seriously? For a buggy? There is room for it above. It would have taken 3-4 more parts. That counter gear will catch tree roots on rough ground (which is why a home-made brass shield was necessary). On smooth ground, it will bottom out when landing. Which kinda limits it as an on-road car with unreasonably high center of gravity. (unless you've got sandy or grassy field free of tree roots or rocks) If Tamiya moves the counter gear up, they could sell it again. But after the sales flop which was Tamiya's own fault, they probably won't get into nitro truggy again. So this was a disappointment, but I learned a lot about nitro with it, so I could be prepared for the Terra Crusher. (I didn't wait for real reviews of Terra Crusher either) "Wise men say, only fools rush in." My life lesson is; not to buy stuff before reading plenty of real reviews. All 3 above are my problem kids (I mean, kits), but I suffered and grew with them, so I can't say I regret them. I still love these things, with all their faults.

I think so. If you are using NiMH, you won't get 100% of the motor's potential (you'd get like 80%). Because NiMH cannot supply large current at once (in hard acceleration). But it might still be better than brushed. Also, you get everything else; better torque and better efficiency. If the manual says that you can use a pinion with 1 more tooth, I'd recommend that. Brushless has more torque, so you can use one more tooth for faster speed. If you want, get a 13.5t motor, put on a larger pinion (if it's allowed), and enjoy the motor. You could upgrade to LiPo later for the extra acceleration. (If you are using LiPo with TBLE-02S, I'd get a voltage alarm)

[1] Tamiya TBLE-02S is the most well known ESC for both brushed and brushless (sensored). It comes with many Tamiya kits, and when people upgrade, they sell on ebay for about $27-$30. But Jack of all trade isn't master of anything; TBLE-02S could run relatively mild motors only. 25t for brushed motors, so Sport Tuned is the max. And 13.5t for brushless. TBLE-02S can do brushed/sensored brushless. I don't think I've heard of any ESC that can do Brushed/sensorless brushless. [2] If you want to run hotter brushed motor, Hobbywing 1060 is only about $18. You can run motors down to 12t. You can run Super Stock motors that Tamiya TBLE-02S cannot handle? 1060 is the solution. [3] If you want to run brushless, Hobbywing 10BL120 (sensored) costs about $40. It's 120A ESC, so it can run a lot faster motors, like 4.5t. [4] Sensorless ESCs are often sold as a combo with a sensorless motor. Cheaper, and has a low end kick to it, but at slower speeds, the motor could hesitate and jerk.

I'm partial to 2WD. You want control? 4WD would do exactly what you tell it to do. You are the master. You want tail-whipping fun? I'd go for 2WD. With some exaggeration, it will fight you. You will have to wrestle the control from it. It won't let you be the master, unless you prove your skills. I didn't get M08, because that looks the wild horse I can't tame. Seeing as you already have RWD, and 4WD, why not FWD this time? You may get both anyway. Might as well start with something new?

lol... that was just brilliant!

It's a hobby. You don't need to justify it with logic. You do what makes you feel good. I want a RC Delorean with doors that open up. Nobody made it, so I can't have it. At least Tamiya made Tyrell P34. I'd say live your dream.

Hmm... torque or speed? You'll have to pick. Below is a 20kg servo. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Another member had recommended it to me, it's cheap and strong. 20kg is a total overkill. While I recommend 9kg, I think anything over 6kg would do okay. But it's better than having less torque, considering the mass of Comicals. This one is strong and fast enough (0.16 sec). Despite the claimed torque, it's smooth. (I think I've seen youtube test of it being like 12kg in reality? But it's still strong) Or you can get a JX 4409 servo. This was recommended by @Jonathon Gillham. It's more suited for on-road cars like M-chassis because of the speed. If I get a XV-01 rally chassis, this would be a perfect servo for that. But this still has twice the torque of standard servos. 0.11 second!! and 9kg! So this one is fast and strong enough. It feels a bit gritty. https://www.amazon.com/JX-Servo-PDI-4409MG-Digital-Standard/dp/B07G876LN6 hmmm, JX also makes a 20kg servo. https://smile.amazon.com/PDI-6221MG-Digital-Standard-Helicopter-Crawler/dp/B07NHYMCZV/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=jx+servo&qid=1606348419&sr=8-10#customerReviews All 3 costs about $16 USD each.

That sounds about right. At the extreme end, I imagine one wheel steering. Like the inside wheel is losing traction and outside wheel has to do more cornering. The more the kingpin lays back, the easier it would be to steer. If you have 2 wheels on the ground, straight running would be more stable. Toe ins and toe outs would have more pronounced effects, etc. But 2 degree difference might not be as pronounced as we think it would? (To be honest, I haven't changed caster angles, so I couldn't say for sure) I think of caster as dihedral of wings. The more dihedral, the stable the turn is, just like the kingpin angle. 2 degrees might feel a bit slippery, where as 4 degree might feel stable. I'm not such a great driver, so if it were me, I'd choose 4 degrees until I think I could benefit from less stable caster. Off the top of my head, buggies have like 15 degrees. You can see how caster ended up changing the camber angles when turning. So higher kingpin angle does change caster when turning for sharper response. But 2-4 degrees of on-road vehicles won't be this pronounced. I think 1:1 cars have 3-6 degrees? Nobody's going to have 50 degree-caster, but it's useful thought experiment. If you turn right, the front end of the tire would open up to the sky, almost. That would make the top of the tire lean toward the turn.

I have a feeling svenb is right. I only have a few M-chassis, so I don't know enough about on-road cars. But if you have to change the hub carrier, it's caster. Tilting back the kingpin isn't easy to change. However, you can easily change camber using tie rods... Wait a minute... "キャスター" is caster (I was way into Japanese anime in my 30's, and ended up learning Katakana). Caster and camber got translation in transposed. (I mean, transposed in translation)