Juggular

Window-washing fluid on the snow?

They look so good, you make me want to get an ultrasonic tub.

Many brushless motors don't have the bushing housing sticking out. But that doesn't mean that they will fit Egress... The link with a brushless, didn't fit. So hopefully, somebody could give us a confirmation on Tamiya brushless. If not, Super Stock would have to do. As for bearings, I think the Egress comes with all the bearings? (But they are all metal shielded, which could allow fine sand in, and make them gritty) If you want rubber-sealed bearings for playing in the sand, you can get ten(10) 1150 bearings for $2. The quality isn't the best in the world. I end up not choosing 1 or 2 out of 10. But you only need 8 bearings (2 next to each wheel), as they will be most exposed to sand. Deep inside the gearbox, metal shielded bearings are just fine. Oh, you could use 2 for the shafts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-685-5x11x4mm-Open-Miniature-Bearings-ball-Mini-Hand-Bearing-Spinner/162470235664?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 There are also 1680 bearings where the drive cups would stick to. I'm not 100% sure, but they might be 8x16x5mm bearings. If so, you can get 5 of them for about $2.30. Rubber seals will keep the sand out of the gearbox. https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-688-2RS-688RS-688-RS-2RS-8x16x5mm-Rubber-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing/132878046580?hash=item1ef0261574:g:61sAAMXQaBRRi2DG:rk:51:pf:0 I don't think metal gears are necessary unless you want to put your car through 14.8 volt, which most ESCs cannot handle anyway. Also, I'm uncomfortable adding weights to rotating masses. Nylon gears are strong enough for RC purposes. Aluminum pinions are weak, but I think Egress might come with a steel pinion anyway? I'm not sure about that. But even if it did come with an aluminum pinion, I'd still recommend Teflon grease. LaBelle 106 is very light and slick, Labelle 206 is a bit stickier so it won't wash away (if water is an issue). It's just hard to wear down something when that is coated with Teflon. Any battery would do fine. NiMH is good enough for most purposes. So if you want to start with that, that's fine. SkyRC iMax B6 has become the new standard for chargers, but other chargers are equally good. These days most chargers can handle most types of batteries, so when you want to switch over to LiPo, they'll be able to handle LiPo too. LiPo is about 30% lighter than NiMH. The lighter the car, the better it performs. LiPo allows massive drain, which means it can give you more voltage when you are full-throttling it. It depends on C ratings but think of it this way: when you floor it for a second, 7.2v NiMH would go down to 5v. 7.4v LiPo would go down to 6v. It's not the nominal 0.2v that's superior, it's the ability to withstand instant drain that makes LiPo superior.

Thommo's right! Below is a site where the builder tried a brushless and experienced the same exact thing Thommo said. The pinion and the spur were not lining up. They were off by 50%. I seem to remember old vintage motors having shorter shafts. Since Thommo tried 540, Sport tuned and Torque tuned, I would definitely go with his experience and choose the Super Stock. http://tamiyaegress.com/?p=206

Ah, all the wait makes it wonderful to see it actually run. [1] Cheapest way to equip would be about $90: Flysky GT3C radio is simple and reliable, and has most of the important fuctions. About $45. Servo: Hobbyking High Torque MG/BB (Metal Gear/Ball Bearings) $9. ESC: Hobbywing 1060 for a brushed motor ($20). Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor ($17). You can also get a sensorless brushless motor/ESC combo for about $40. Don't trust ebay "320A ESC" stuff. They are more like 25A brushed ESCs. I would stay close to 3300KV range because the 60A ESC tends to bottleneck the amp for higher KV motors. Sensorless motors are good for bashers, but for higher end buggies, I'd go with sensored. [2] Slightly fancier for about $140: Radiolink RC6GS. About $70. I'd still use Hobbyking High Torque MG/BB. It's cheap, but it's a whole lot faster and stronger than Futaba S3003/S3004 which was "the standard." ESC: Tamiya TBLE02S from ebay for about $25. Motor: Turnigy Trackstar 13.5t sensored brushless. ($35) "Sensored" brushless gives you more control at lower RPM. TBLE02S is reliable, and reasonably priced now. 13.5t brushless is about the limit of TBLE02S. [3] Entry level for about $250+: Futaba 3PV ($130) does not offer more functions, but it's faster. (8 or 6 millisecond? Don't worry, human reaction time to visual stimuli is about 250 millisecond, so even the "slow" radio of 12 ms isn't going to make any difference, unless you are racing) You can get expensive Savox servos, but I found them to be glitchy, so I prefer cheap hobbyking servo for bashers. Hobbyking offers dozens of different kinds of servos. For ESC, you can get 80A or 120A ESCs which will allow hotter motors like 9.5t. Some would go for the rocket speed. If so, other members would be better equipped to help you. I found no reason to go faster than 13.5t and I don't like loud fans. Personally, I'm at [1] and [2] mostly. I don't race. I like trying different cars. So expandability is important. Flysky's receivers are only $6 each. You can control 10 cars with about $100. Radiolink's receivers are about $15 each, so equipping 10 cars would cost over $200. Everybody is different. I'd rather buy 5 more cars, but some would prefer to buy 1 high-end radios like Futaba 7PXLE for $900 (new for 2019). All up to you. Welcome to the hobby. It's a whole lot safer than drugs, but not any cheaper than drugs.

78Triumph does some awesome stuff. Check out his video on XV01 rally too... uh... if I can find it...

Isn't that @78Triumph's Unimog?

Does it have bigger tires? (You said FDR 12, so tire size must have been considered already) Running that hot, even for a 390 motor is rather surprising. I wonder some cogging could have caused the extra heat? Neodymium magnets (used in the core of brushless motors) are one of the strongest magnets. But it loses a lot of power when heated. I would think a 540 sized motor would run cool. If not, FDR of 15 or 16 could solve the problem even with a 390 sized motor. DF03 weighs 1.1kg. 390 sized motor would do okay for DF03, but perhaps 2+ kg might have been pushing it a bit.

Tamiya can sell the Striker with the canopy included. Some may want it on, some may want cool wind in their hair (or helmet).

Sometimes the ball bearings don't get seated inside the plastic. Those bearings should be pushed in firmly. They fit quite tightly. If I remember correctly, the bearings were flush with the inner surface of the gearbox. If not, it could reduce the clearance for the diff, making it tight. Hotshot family diffs are smooth. So, off the top of my head, that's all I can think of...

Saito's comment made me wonder why Tamiya didn't add a canopy. I mean, it's supposed to look like a jet fighter, but why is the pilot exposed like some biplane? If Tamiya rereleases Striker with a Lexan canopy, I might buy it. (I drew a few lines on @evssv69's striker)

I use plumber's faucet grease on gearboxes. It's plastic safe, and it's designed to keep water out. After all, this grease is the reason why your faucets are not spewing water from the moving parts for years. This won't make an RC car entirely waterproof, but it will do a reasonable job keeping muddy water out of gearboxes.

One other way to achieve LSD is using sticky grease. If you are in the US, you can get "Bad Horsie Diff Lock." It doesn't lock, it just makes it slow to move. Below is as much as you need for a buggy. I first used Bad Horsie in 2002 in my Wild Willy2, and it's still fine. In fact, the one on the left side is 17 years old. It yellowed a bit, but till the same consistency. Bad Horsie charges an arm and a leg to ship the tiny thing overseas. If so, you might want to get 3Racing Ultra High Viscosity Diff Oil. It is similar to AW grease, but much stickier. I tried to pick up a pair of scissors using AW grease and 3Racing Ultra. Tiny amount was put on my fingertip like some glue. I found that 3Racing Ultra High thing is 2-3 times stickier than AW. For on-road cars, AW grease is perfect. I didn't use Bad Horsie in my M06. Anything bigger than touring cars (like buggies) would benefit from something stickier. If these are too sticky, you can wipe some off with your fingers. Undoing completely will take a lot of cleaning. But once you are hooked on LSD, you just don't go back. You won't be running for the door. If you had to find the passage back to the place you were before, relax, we are programmed to receive. You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. If you are not sure, go with the o-ring LSD. That is a snap to undo. Also, you probably have o-rings, so you can test out right now. Anything to stop diff-unloading is a good thing.

Now, that is seriously awesome. More pics, including the chassis, please?

I found a differential grease that's ultra sticky. AW grease is next to it for size comparison (1 gram vs 20g). It feels 2-3 times stickier than AW. It feels almost firm as vaseline, but whole lot stickier. It smells a bit like a plastic bag, whereas AW doesn't smell anything. AW grease wipes away quickly with alcohol, this takes 2-3 swipes to go away. Since it says "diff oil" I would assume it's plastic safe. I haven't tried it in a diff, but I think this Ultra thing from 3Racing might be usable (in small amounts) in open diffs like the FAV, Fox, Grasshopper, Blackfoot, etc. How do I know this is 2-3 times stickier than AW grease? I did a sticky finger grab test. AW grease dropped the scissors in about 0.3 seconds. 3Racing Ultra Hig Viscosity Gear Diff Oil held them up for about 1 second. And it left a mold of my fingerprint on the scissors. I didn't take a photo of that (just in case people use fingerprints like credit cards in the future--you never know!).