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Everything posted by Juggular

  1. I would also consider two general laws of relativity of time and space. (1) The longer you have driven, the faster motor you'd want. (that's not always true, 1980's Wild Willy 1 has the old school 540, and it still feels fast) My first buggy was the Grasshopper. I thought Hornet was blindingly fast. Now, 540 is slow... If I competed in races and improved my driving skills more, even 10.5t wouldn't be satisfying. However, I run in my backyard, so my skills stay limited... Sport Tuned and 13.5t are powerful enough to attack tree roots with, in my case. (2) The motor grows relative to space. Even a 370 motor seems really fast (in my living room). But Dancing Rider turns into a snail when I take it outside. It all depends on your driving skill and where you are running it. Considering the growth factor, I think 10BL120 was an excellent choice. If you got a 13.5t for half the price, why not run it? For most residential streets, even Sport Tuned is fast enough, until your driving skill gets better at weaving through parked cars or you find a wide open space to run.
  2. Brand matters. When I buy a radio set, I always check how much it would cost to buy extra receivers. Very rarely can they work outside of their own brand. Come to think of it, they rarely work even within the same company. So, I would not feel comfortable, unless I buy the specific receiver made for that transmitter. Servo, on the other hand, is far less tricky to buy. Comicals are heavy vehicles, so Hobbyking metal gear is a good choice. But anything dimensionally the same, with about 9kg of torque and faster than 0.19 second respond time would be fine. (Having said that, I ran the same chassis with half the torque for years, it was fine)
  3. That is a score. Nitro is fun. Driving needs to be adjusted. Leave enough room to turn around. It's got brakes, but no reverse. I only have 2 Tamiya nitros. One of them is TGM-01 Mad Bison (based on TG10). You can't find it anymore, though. @acprc bought all of them . Mine came with a cast engine head that was horrible in terms of cooling. And the worst was the RC airplane-type compact muffler. It sapped strength. But yours have good head + a tuned pipe. Those 2 alone would be like $80 worth of upgrade, let alone a full engine upgrade that would have costed like $180. If that green stuff is residual lubricant from the fuel, that means the previous owner just left the fuel without any after-run treatment. For all we know, the engine might not even be properly broken-in! Somebody built it, ran it for 1 minute and then forgot about it for months. It got stuck, so he kept yanking the pull-start and ended up breaking the cord. Depending on the climate, moisture might not have done too much damage. All you may need is un-gunking and rebuilding. With some luck, it could be as good as new. I don't mind using alcohol for disassembly and cleaning. Alcohol evaporates quickly. By the time you are putting it back together, it'd be gone. You just don't want to leave it in. You'd want to use something like after-run oil on the piston, crank shaft, etc. That stays in for years until you run it. [Airtightness] Nitro engines can't have air leaking. I'm talking about air entering in through the air filter, combustion chamber, tuned pipe, back to fuel tank, and fuel line to carburetor (needle). RC fuel is fed by "push and pull." The combustion chamber would want to pull in, but the exhaust also pushes air into the fuel tank and the combustion chamber. If air leaks anywhere, it's no good. When you are rebuilding, you could possibly get a tube of RTV gasket maker. You don't need it, but it's useful. It costs about $8 a tube, and it will last years. But more often than not, leaks are in the tanks and fuel lines. The blue silicone tube thing that's connecting the stinger sometimes needs replacing too. [Air filter] Check the sponge. It is often soaked in oil, and the sponge crumbles to dust after a few years. [After-run oil] I would definitely get a bottle of after-run oil. You could use other oil, but you definitely don't want stuff like WD40. WD40 displaces water, you can even replace half the fuel with WD40 and the engine will run. But long term exposure to WD40 is not good for plastic parts and gaskets. As mentioned already, exhaust pushes air back into the fuel tank, some oil can sputter back into the plastic tank. After a season, you could wonder why you need to replace the tank. [Needle] I wouldn't worry too much about it now. It need to be adjusted all the time, so it's just something you have to experiment. Cloudy days run quite differently from sunny days. It's just how much fuel gets into the engine. Fire it up and adjust it. You don't want it so rich it stings your eyes, nor do you want it so lean it's too hot to run even before it runs. Unless you run it in rain, most fuel would have a relatively wide middle range. [Fuel] Keep the fuel bottle airtight also. Nitro fuel is mostly alcohol. It loves to suck in moisture and ruin the fun for you. So keep the bottles wrapped in plastic bags and keep away from moisture. Never leave the cap open. I never really cared too much about nitro content. @Collin is right in that every person has a different way of running things. Each engine might recommend preferable percentage, but most engines do fine between 10-25%. However, you don't want too much ignition-power on a .12 engines. Considering that you've got good cooling fins, finned mounts and a chrome-plated sleeve (probably), I think something like 10-16% would be a good choice. Unlike electric motors, nitro engines are not designed for gunning it all the time. It's all about temperature. A cheap temperature gun is a useful tool. Good luck! P.S. If it's in usable condition, I'd break it in.
  4. I'm afraid it's a bit more involved... To fully maximize brushless, you also need a LiPo battery. And a new battery connector too. Sport Tuned motor would use up to 1.5 Amp at burst. Steady draw would be like 0.8A. That's perfect for NiMH batteries. However, brushless can draw as much as 6A at burst, 2A steady. NiMH just cannot supply that much amp. [ 5000mAh is total energy of your battery. The draw I'm talking about is how fast the battery gives that energy at once. LiPo can supply 8-10A easily, which means it can drain 80% energy in about 20 minutes. NiMH just cannot supply that much energy that fast. Also Tamiya connector was designed for 1A, up to about 2A for a very short time. This is why LiPo batteries come with Deans or XT60 connectors] Of course, 10.5 turn will definitely go faster than Sport Tuned. But it's like starving a marathon runner. He can run, just not as well as he is capable. ================================= Having said that, I would recommend at least 80A ESC. Quicrun 10BL120 is a good 120A ESC that can handle most sensored brushless motors. You can get one for $50-$60. I'd say 10.5 turn sensored motor should be fast enough for most occasions. There are $45 ones out there, so the combination would fit the bill. I would even limit the speed because I'm comfortable at 13.5t or even Sport Tuned. But that's just me. Alternatively, if you happened to have Tamiya TBLE02S, it could handle 13.5t sensored motor. That's what I use, because I only have to spend about $45 on a motor. And you could spend the rest on a LiPo and a charger. You can search "RC light bucket" or "RC light bar" or "RC lights" on ebay. You can directly connect the lead to the receiver.
  5. I went to Target store to get some ball point pens, and they had a pharmacy inside. When I was milling around looking for potassium, the pharmacist asked if I wanted a flu shot. I said yes unusually fast. (I am one of those annoyingly slow people who takes a second to answer anything) Coming back to TC today, I think Mad Ax's story was the controlling factor (subconsciously). I do my best to avoid both, but at least flu would be less of a worry. So thanks for subconsciously weighing on the matter. When I started to sniffle last month, my wife got me a glass of vitamin C powder dissolved in a glass of water, and a little scoop of manuka honey. Vitamin C is already in the B-complex I take. Extra won't do much in my case. She had told me that manuka is expensive, especially something with high number (apparently they have some kind of a rating system). I said, "why should it be expensive? it's just honey." (I said it in a tone that was like: "haha, you got fooled!") But the sniffle was gone almost immediately. (I got humbled and rightly so) I hope you feel better soon.
  6. Here on the other side of the pond, my friend's husband got flu-like symptoms just the other day. He did the test and it was negative on the corona, just garden variety flu. I'd say, you can never be too sure what you have these days. I hope she feels better soon. P.S. I like orange color to start with. And you took it to whole another level with that black and orange color scheme!
  7. While I was busy tending to my wife's various orders, some impressive things were going on! That is one handsome Jeep!
  8. lol... some times, (actually, quite often) I realize that my standard is quite low. Hat's off to precision builders! My CC-01 has stock steering setup. The slop on edge of the tires is like 5mm side-to-side. Certainly, it could improve. But at the same time, it's only driven in my backyard. No rocks, just some slopes. For me, precision steering wouldn't make a lot of difference. Especially if it's going to cost me extra. My own preference is "quantity over quality." It could look quite silly for a discerning driver. I even patched one eye of my Grasshopper. (lol... I'm sorry that I am lowering the standard by this much... but it's a battle-scar of Odin!) It's funny, if I think of the old shell as "dirty, old and broken," I would want to build a new one and keep it on a shelf. If I think of it as "old Odin" I don't want to replace the shell even though I have a vintage set. (even the instruction sheet yellowed over decades...) So, if I have $90 extra to spend on precision steering upgrades for 2-3 chassis, my personal choice would be to buy one more used chassis I haven't tried. That's just me, though. Everybody is different. I'm not very particular about tools either. But I'm building scale kits now, so I decided to spend $60 for a pair of cutters. They cost twice as much as Tamiya ones and the high-carbon steel is as brittle as thin ice. (they can NEVER be used for RC parts--they are too big) But the blade is razor sharp for small parts. Some armor kits have like 500 parts. If one tool saves me 2 hours per kit, I figure it's worth the money. (Tamiya 1/48 scale Japanese Type 10 tank is actually quite small) While I chose to go expensive on a pair of nippers that could shave 0.1mm closer, I chose to live with 5mm slop on CC01. That's strange. I could have fixed CC01's slop at half the price! In the end, we all have limited amount of disposable income. Some choose to be precise, some choose to go sloppy. (I'm at the irksome level of tinkering, as shown in my Blackfoot ghetto mod...but ironically, some slop actually helps prevent breakage in this case) I'm not saying people should become a slob like me... no, no. If you can, please choose Nicadraus' way of being precise. It's better for the chassis, and for the next driver too if you choose to sell it. I've seen some terrible injustice done to used RC cars; like shoving a wide bore piston into a smaller bore, completely jamming it. lol... What good is a coated rod if you use the wrong piston!? I arrogantly thought, "you don't need a coated rod, you need some skills!" Then again, it occurred to me that it could have been done by a lonely 10 year old boy who built it without help of an experienced-builder dad. I felt bad. Most of us are old enough to have kids. While we are eager to lend a hand, some kids don't have that luxury. He might not have even heard about Tamiya Club when he built it. I'm glad to have many experienced builders willing to help. Even though I'm not a kid, if I wanted a steering upgrade kit all I have to do is ask. I'll probably get half a dozen answers from members with decades of more experiences on certain chassis. All kind enough to take time to recommend something! I think we are a fortunate bunch in that regard. Also, Tamiya Club's motto is "when in doubt, buy both." (eventually) Get what you like and deal with breakages and upgrades as they come along. Nothing is invincible and fixing/upgrading is all part of RCing.
  9. @DeadMeat666 beat me to DT02. If you are coming from on-road, 2WD would give you more of ... er... drifting. Which is fun. You don't need to spend a lot of money. About $150 USD. Something like Sand Viper can give you a proper buggy look. You can go for a short course truck look. Or you can go for a loopy bear who shouldn't be driving stoned. There are few other variations. If it's cheaper, you can go with DT03 also. These are easy-going buggies. Performance isn't anything like competition buggies. But you can't expect something this cheap to perform at IFMAR level. But it's lightyears ahead of vintage chassis like Blackfoot, Frog, etc. It's simple, trouble-free and fun. It's not going to crawl rocks, nor could it run on knee-high grasses. A baseball field with some weed would be most suited. A Sport Tuned motor, full bearings and some differential putty would be all you need to bash around.
  10. That's a tall order, but one that CC01 or CC02 could meet. The problem with dedicated crawlers are lack of differentials. Any kind of turning requires that outside wheels rotate more than the other wheel. Differentials allow that. But it's better if two wheels turn at the same time if you are crawling; differential unloading would prevent good crawling. So most crawlers just don't have diffs. Which is fine if you are on a trail, but it's a big problem on tarmac, especially if you are on any speed. So, your list kinda results in a trail trucks like CC01 or CC02. CC01's front independent suspension is better for on-road than rigid axle also. If that was my list of requirements, I would get the cheapest CC01 I could find for about 200 USD, and mount the shell I want for $45. It will be almost as expensive MST CMX, but you get the diffs. Install something like 13.5t motor or Sport Tuned. It will go twice as fast as a 45t crawler motor. It's got more torque too, just less control. Same trigger pull will cause twice as much RPM change. Not really good for crawling, but there is no other way, unless you have a 2-speed transmission. You can use some differential putty. It will be almost like locked diff, but it will still prevent your truck from rolling over. You get to crawl some, trail some and dash around a parking lot too. There are plenty of upgrades for it. I only have stickier tires and the suspension travel kit. If you want, you can lock the rear diff and put the putty on the front only. CMX, CFX, and Gmade are crawlers. Within that class, there is 1/10th scale Traxxas TR4 Sport kit for about $300 USD. Add $25 for one front differential, you've got a crawler/trail truck. But of course, CC01 is cheaper and faster.
  11. Motorcycle isn't something I build, so I only built 2-3 of them. But that monkey has been on my list since I heard about it last year. Thank you for the review. I'll have to get one myself one of these days.
  12. I've got lots of shells to paint... Last time I painted anything was in May when it didn't rain often. Now is also a good time to paint. Not too hot, not too cold, and no more summer rain! At the same time, my wife has this crazy idea that this is a good season to dry the varnish, if we do the floor. (By 'we,' she means 'me.') I was going to say, "no, fall is not a good season to paint the floor finish," but she knows about painting. (thanks to me babbling about good painting weather...) Because of RC, she thinks that I can fix floor boards too. It's not the same thing. (but it's not that hard either) The floors had carpets before. Some nails rusted and left black nail holes. There. The worst offenders are replaced. Others will sand out. But no... she keeps saying "off with nail head!" (well, nail holes, really... but that didn't rhyme with 'his head.') So that escalated into this... I'm starting to think that I should charge her $10 a board, so I could buy M08 or XV01 . I was going to paint Honda S800. But that might have to wait until next spring. 210mm wheelbase won't fit M07, and I have 4 painted shells that need to be stickered anyway. I haven't even chosen the color for Konghead. And what on earth happened to the 4 Blackfeet? They turned Whitefeet! My wife also had this idea about something in the backyard. Which resulted in me being sore from working on it yesterday. She's out there cleaning the backyard now. Today, she wants me to bake pizza since the weather is cool enough to use the oven. So now I'm brewing some dough. (Kitchen is where men belong, while women are out in the yard) In all, I'm doing what she thinks is fun. (That's the definition of marriage --according to her )
  13. Me too! Since there is no hobby shop around, I had to order a few to see which one is which. Only after I got my hands on them, I could tell which photo shows what connector. Those 4mm connectors came with my shorty pack. They are massive!!
  14. Brushed motors usually draw 1-2A. That is why even Tamiya connectors (rated for 1A) are okay if you stay with a NiMH battery. Bullet connectors for motors are good for 15-20A. They are a bit of an overkill. Fancy 4mm gold connectors are rated for 75A. That's even more of an overkill. But I see absolutely nothing wrong with that. If it's safe, why not? I mean, if you wanted to use Tamiya battery connector for a 5.5t brushless with 3 cell Lipo rated for 100C? That's like trying to drive a 60 ton tank on a wooden foot bridge. You'll burn up the wimpy Tamiya connector in half a second. But using a 75A connector when you need 2A, is like building a 4-lane highway to ride only 1 bicycle on. You don't really need it, but it isn't going to damage anything. I'd say, you should do what you feel like doing. It's a hobby, after all. If you want, you can even solder them without any connector for even cleaner look.
  15. Yep, that looks like a vintage Fox. My vintage Fox came with an anti-roll bar which didn't work as well as I had hoped. (It was an optional part at the time, I think?) Without it, I'm guessing that the front mono-shock would be less effective. If one wheel goes up, it would simply push the other side down. The spring would simply move to the other side, making it easier to roll. Easy enough to fix though. The new anti-roll bar for the Novafox fit my vintage Fox just fine. It has less slop, works a lot better because it's made out of a thicker wire, and sleeker-looking to boot. Whoever was the engineer to redesign that, knew that vintage sway bar was weak and fixed it just right. To uninstall the vintage bar, you have to undo the whole front arms. So, if it comes without it, you only need to install the new one.
  16. You can use washers for that. But you have to see carefully how it will affect the dog bone. Just watch out for the room for the dog bone. Binding is bad, so is falling out.
  17. Considering that the latest RC kit is #677, it's not an easy pick. Maybe I suggest a dozen? You can pick what you like. [Vintage] 1) Grasshopper/Hornet: Just sheer number of them says, "This is Tamiya." Compared to race buggies, these are very ancient. 2) Wild Willy 1: Wheelie vehicles have not been duplicated by many other makers, so it could be quintessential Tamiya. WW1 is unavailable, but Wild Willy 2 and Comical series are available. You can choose WW2, Toyota FJ40, Comical (Grasshopper, Hornet, Frog, Avante, etc. --some are 4WD) 3) Bruiser: Same reason as WW1. Nothing says Tamiya louder than a 3-gear gearbox. 4) Hotshot family: They kinda changed the RC world with 4WD buggy. 5) CC-01: Still very decent trail chassis, even though it came out in the 90s. CC-02 is new. [Contemporary] 1) Konghead/Dynahead: If you see a funny looking 6x6 vehicle ripping about, it's most likely Tamiya. 2) DT-02: It's a cheap and fun buggy. DT-03 is the same. A very Tamiya way to introduce people to RC. 3) DN-01: It's not widely available, but you can still find it. Very well balanced 2WD buggy. 4) XV-01: Very unique in that it's a 4WD Rally chassis with the motor mounted on the nose: it runs like a real car in that sense. 5) T3-01: A trike that uprights itself? Who else would build that but Tamiya? 6) M-05, M-06, M-07, M-08: Touring cars that represents the Tamiya drive quality. Unfortunately, I don't know much about on-road cars, aside from M-chassis I own. I hope about a dozen out of 600+ isn't too many.
  18. Ooh, that just gave me an idea. Couldn't we use jam to "jam" bolts and nuts? It's sticky enough. And you can lick it too!
  19. I think of first 3 layers paint as a tint on sunglasses. Put a white paper behind one lens, put black cloth on the other. You could see how 2 lenses would look quite different. So if you want that blue to be brighter, paint white. If you want it deeper blue, paint darker blue or black. I used to think silver was as bright as white. But now I think of silver as gray, something that will make things a shade dark. Also, I share the concern of @Xeostar. Plastic paint might chip off. There is a way to test it. Leave it out in the sun for 3-7 days if the weather is dry. And leave it in front of a fan, blowing air on it for 24 hours. And beat it. Literally beat it to see if it chips. It's not a perfect test because the paint is only 99.5% cured after 4-8 days. That 0.5% could make it soft enough to endure some beating, but if it chips even a little, you know it will chip a lot more after 6 months. I have plastic paint on something, it stuck well and was flexible enough. But it wore out on sweaty palms... lol... (It was a BB air rifle stock)
  20. Oh, JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screw drivers definitely made a difference for me. Since that's mentioned already... [1] I'd go for a pair of curved scissors. They don't look impressive. But once you start using them, they just make it easier to cut bodies with. (Dexter approves) [2] The other is a brand, rather than a tool. I used X-Acto knives until about 25 years ago. But they were anything but exact. They'd get dull faster. So I preferred to use old school razor blades for scale model building. Razors get dull just as fast, but at least they were sharper than X-Acto. Once I found OLFA brand (made in Japan), I never looked back. As sharp as razor blades but stays sharper longer than razors. Tiny stickers that's wrapping around these 6 tail lights? These blades were very useful. [3] It isn't a tool, but I don't think I'll build any RC car without plastic-safe Teflon grease. It is stickier than Tamiya's ceramic grease. But because you only need a thin film of teflon, gears turn easier. Only oil like WD40 would be lighter. But you can't use WD40 (it can destroy plastic, and it won't last long anyway). But this grease have stuck on my Wild Willy 2 gears for 20 years, protecting even the aluminum pinion. You only need this much and it stays like this for decades. It's not any louder either. In my opinion, this is something Tamiya should sell as an optional aftermarket grease. (Then again, Tamiya doesn't sell LiPo to children. Maybe Tamiya thinks kids would eat it. While people fry eggs on teflon pans everyday, eating teflon grease won't be good for health...)
  21. hmm... I guess that makes sense. A shoulder cannot lift 1000 pounds even if a robot arm could. It is only as strong as where it's attached to. We see that with an aftermarket shock tower withstanding impact, but the plastic chassis can't. I'm sorry that you have gone through that experience. Thank you for letting us know, though. Collectively, we learned something. Maybe Jonathon's suggestion of limiting the throw would work?
  22. [1] Shock oil : It would depend on what kind of shocks you have. But in general I use Tamiya medium or light set. But it's personal taste. Tamiya instruction tends to give you harder spring and shock setting. But not for DT03. Its rear springs are too soft. Assuming spring rate is fine, you'll just have to go with a drop test for shock oil. Lift the car up like 10 inches, drop it. If springs don't react much, the oil is too heavy. If the chassis bottom out then the spring is too soft, and oil is too light. You would go for the most stable combination. The springs would compress enough (generally about half) to absorb the shock. But it would rebound once quickly enough. If it bobs up and down, the oil is too light. [2] Ball Diffs: For buggies, I use plumber's faucet grease that any hardware store would sell for about $4. Ball diff grease Tamiya sells is originally designed for on-road cars, I think faucet grease does better (as unsexy as it sounds). It is designed not to get washed out in hot and cold water. It will stick around and ball diff is far less likely to slip. I used it on DN-01 and I need to tighten less and the Limited Slip Differential effect is easier to control and stronger. https://smile.amazon.com/Waterproof-Silicone-Grease-1-Pack-88693/dp/B000DZFUPC/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=faucet+grease&qid=1600630225&sr=8-3 [3] Gear grease: I ended up setting for plastic safe Teflon grease designed for model trains. Very little resistance and it sticks around for decades. (My first tube was used on Wild Willy 2, 18 years ago, still going strong) If you are going Teflon, this much grease is all you need. I use 106 for everything, slightly stickier 206 for the pinion. But there are many different greases you can use, just don't use this much. [4] Thrust bearings: The go-to grease is Tamiya molybdenum grease. But I'm thinking @Carmine A's Anti-Seize grease might work well. If you are not going with Teflin, you might use this for the pinion gear. It's a grease designed to stick around, just like Tamiya molybdenum grease. (and a while lot cheaper too. I should get a tube and test it around) Come to think of it, I should have just given you the link... it wasn't long ago... let me look up...
  23. lol... @TurnipJF got my head turning around so fast I'm dizzy! You are going to double the sales of Karmann Ghia for Tamiya! Now I'm going to have to get both!
  24. Re-issued Boomerang isn't that old. So it would come up for sale again somewhere; like ebay. Availability all depends on who keeps what where and when they decide to sell. (The way I understand it, Tamiya never keeps on making anything. They make a batch for few weeks and distributed to the world. That's it. They move on to the next kit) How they are sold depends on the market. Right now might not be the best time to buy for certain cars though. I see Boomerangs listed for $350. That's twice as much as before pandemic. So yes, they are available even now, just that most of them are trying to sell at much higher price than before.
  25. It would drift if you lock it. So it would depend on how tight ball diff is or how sticky the grease is. I've seen a video of a Konghead spinning on one spot like a spinning top. Not going anywhere, just spinning and spinning. Even the Japanese guy who was driving it sounded surprised. That would never be possible with AW grease in the diffs. Forward momentum would be too much. You can apply the same principle to the tail-wagging of a RWD chassis. If the differentials are sticky, both wheels would want to spin more or less at the same ratio. Meaning, they would try to go forward, instead of spinning. Which would result in less turning at the rear. Which would mean less spinouts. Locked diffs spins in a different way. If locked, one or both wheels must lose traction at any turn. Then the chassis go with where the weight goes. Hence drifting. So the conclusion is, locking is bad, free rotating is also not good. I've got Bad Horsie diff lock pictured before, 3Racing diff grease, and differential putty too. But I found that for M-chassis, AW grease seems to be the best match. All these other things would be tad too sticky for M-chassis and nearly lock the diff. For DT02, which is indeed somewhat similar in the weight distribution, I use stickier diff grease. Traction has a lot to do with understeer, so sometimes a bit of a weight on the nose could be a quick and dirty way to fix the understeer on tarmac. Oh, man... @TurnipJF' Apline is gorgeous! I was going to get a Karman Ghia next, but now I'll have to get an Apline 110 first! Oh the fickle nature of a man... lol... Those rally tires would be perfect for that type of surface. In that case, I'd install Sport Tuned. Fitting for a rally set up too! And if using a hotter motor, steel pinion would be good too. (I'm lazy and cheap, so I just use teflon grease and call it a day. Gears just wear less with teflon. But I did see a 20 year old used car delivered with total paste of aluminum. That's bad, I had to get a steel pinon for that one -- it might have been TL01B) I have the same motor heatsink. Many M-chassis motors don't get a lot of air, and magnets in the motor don't like heat. If you are running stock, it's not really necessary. But for hotter motors, it might not be a bad thing to have. The same goes for steering. See how you like the stock steering on M06. If you find it sloppy, you can get a 3rd party kit. No 2 car would be set up the same way. No 2 people would do it the same way either. And if you want the best performance, you would use best tires for each surface. If you find it understeering, you might want to replace front 2 tires with super grip, for example. I'd check out what tires come with your kit first, though. I run mostly buggies, but I'm glad that I jumped into M chassis with M-06. I hope you like yours.
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