bjr250

There are some on the Japanese Tamiya website. Paint brochure LP/X-XF (acrylic and enamel)/TS comparison Acrylic paint/enamel paint (X/XF) - lacquer paint (LP) colour matching LP/TS matching LP/AS matching Unfortunately there is no comparison table for the PS paints (that I have found) on the Tamiya site. In the past, for lexan bodied cars with hard plastic parts, I have used the PS spray on the hard plastic (after primer) followed by a clear coat of appropriate gloss with some success.

I cant help you with the paint But there are other photos of Satoshi Maezumi holding this car. In this video you can briefly see him talking about this livery while referencing this magazine from 2013.

From memory this body is polycarbonate. Tamiya PS sprays are designed to be nitro fuel proof. Once it is cured it can be difficult to remove. Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner, a soft cloth and elbow grease does work. If the wing was hard plastic it might be possible level out the surface by sanding and respray. However this will not work on clear polycarbonate.

Rebel Sport also carry it https://www.rebelsport.com.au/p/sof-sole-shoo-goo-110ml-454448.html The test pieces look that they came out well. Good to see an alternative that is available in Australia.

For rib tyres, Grasshopper II should fit. They are also found in the Falcon, Striker etc

They are genuine re-re Buggy Champ/FAV tyres. I bought a pair hornet rear tyres from the Tamiya Plamodel Factory in Shimbashi during my last trip to Japan that were in that type of packaging. When I was in Japan I have also bought many other parts and tyres from shops that are in that style packaging. It seems that is how Tamiya package items that are not given a normal spare part or option part number.

Only one of the Georgia mini's from 2006 when they were on top of a CRT TV

I have my full set of 11 displayed as well. I am only missing the rough rider to have a second unbuilt set. A couple of years later UCC coffee in Japan did a 2 different runs of pullback cars (Grasshopper, Hornet, Frog and Hot Shot) in box art and an alternative livery. Suntory also did the Hornet, Grasshopper, Twin Detonator, Stadium Raider and Nitrage in box art and an alternative livery pullback cars on Boss canned coffee. I have the UCC and Suntory ones as well except for the orange Stadium Raider.

I believe that Nova Fox dog bones will work. They are the same length both total and pin to pin as the rear dog bone bone that came in the rear of my Vanquish. I will be using these when I rebuild it as it was missing one rear dog bone when I got it.

"In the beginning the Universe was created. This has made a lot of people very angry and been widely regarded as a bad move." - Douglas Adams, The Restaurant at the End of the Universe.

I am still around, just not very active. It has been literally years since having a run. I work some weekends but I will see if I can come out if something gets organised. Brad

You can tell re-release cages fairly easily. They have a stay running, almost vertically, from the bottom of the wing mounting to near the dummy resistor mounting points. The 58047 Hotshots through the Supershot and Hotshot II do not have this stay in the molding. I think you have a mash-up of parts form several sources.

I have used this as well to strip a Super Astue shell a few years ago and had good results (although it took a while). I have not noticed any degradation of the lexan and it has been over five years and that shell has been a light runner. One word of caution, it will strip the colour from decals as well. Tamiya's Polycarbonate Cleaner is great on fresh paint and overspray. It will also work on old paint. I have used this to strip a Dynastorm body and used a little less than half a bottle. As Willy said it would be quite expensive for a large shell.

Grahoo has made some really good mods to several cars. The TC showroom link is http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=60259&sid=418 which has a summary of the mods. Another showroom link is http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=3258&sid=418. Not exactly SRB rear end though but with enough imagination anything is possible.

Yes they do. The old part no. is 9807051 but it seems that the part number has been changed to 89950. The AO code (simmilar to SP or OP codes) is AO-7024.

I have seen a Japanese street price of 12000 yen from Champ.

You do get $900 worth of stuff per person in OZ. It's not just customs that you have to worry about. DAFF (Quarantine) will clean off dirty used RC gear. They will use water and lots of it. I know of at least one person that has bought through a dirty short course truck and wasn't happy that water was used. I just told him that he should of looked after his gear properly and cleaned it after his last run . While you are there I am sure that you will find other shops. Get a hold of one of the RC magazines they also have listings for shops and tracks.

I am going again in May - might be going to the Shizuoka Hobby Show. In addition to the show Tamiya open up addional areas of the headquarters building and put on some extra displays. Akihabara is the area in Tokyo to go RC shopping. An online guide to the four main shops is http://agusta.ms.u-t.../akihabara.html RC Champ website http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/ Super Rajicon website http://www.super-rc....p/rc/index.html Futaba Sangyo website http://www.f-sangyo.co.jp/ Rakusai website http://www.rakuseimo....jp/onlineshop/ There are some others as well but these are the main four that I go to. There is very little English spoken by the staff in the shops so I arm myself with a list of part numbers. I also go to the Tamiya Plamodel Factory shop in Shimbashi http://www.tamiya.com/english/info/080819factory/index.htm (There is another one in Yokohama as well). If you are feeling adventurious you could always head to one of the best track complexes at Yatabe Arena http://www.yatabearena.com/ but that is a couple of hours from Tokyo near Tsukuba. Hope that this helps.

Screenprintdigital on eBay has a lot of different decals for different liveries. I didn't see any Eddie Stobart ones though. They have a webshop for RC car stickers at http://www.rccarstickers.com The truck and trailer graphics are at http://www.rccarstic...cks1/4546598322

I had forgotten about this. Fully hand fabed sheet metal, the works. The build is increadible. Link to the build for those unable to find it http://kostructor.al....org/uaz469.htm Link to the builder's home page http://kostructor.al...a.org/index.htm

Excellent news that the parts are holding up well. I need some front c-hubs - H1&2 as I think that after the D1&2 these are the most fragile. The rear uprights C1&2 cop a lot of punishment as well especially if you cartwheel or have a heavy side-on impact with the track edge or kerb. The Super Astute shares the same C parts and I broke one clipping the edging on a corner apex. That your parts are stronger than these bodes well for their durability.

You can get some comparison between the motors here. ===> Tamiya motors GT Tuned has more torque... Nothing like a real world test though.

Wild One (white), Fox (plated gold) and Grasshopper II Super G (fluoro yellow and green) all came with the same pattern wheels just in different colours. There were also some limited release items of these wheels in different colours (eg red). Many of the Tamiya 2wd buggy wheels will fit the stock tyres on. Some like the Star Dish (Super Astute, Dyna Strom) and Astral Dish (Desert Gator) are slightly larger in diameter but the tyres should go on no problem as is evidenced by the re-re Holiday Buggy. The Falcon and Grasshopper II use smaller wheels all-round while the Astute and Madcap have smaller fronts so these should be avoided if using the stock tyres.

Mine doesn't and the manual doesn't show it. The access hatch came in for the Hot Shot II as far as I know.

I forgot about this. For a shorter nut I am using the nuts from 53448 4mm Hard Lock-Nut/Spacer. You don't need the thread lock then and the spacers can also be used to space out the wheels if needed. Edit: I can't remember the thickness of the hexes that I am using but they are probably thicker than the 6mm standard ones.