bjr250
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Posts posted by bjr250
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has always been in my experience. they didn't sell individual maintenance parts for the Sand scorcher or Buggy champ. they did sell body sets and a hop up differential but you can't buy the individual parts.
from what i read guys got their hands on 10-15 bulk orders of complete avante kits and tore them up for parts.
this is nothing new in my experience. this is what made owning a tamiya in the united states and trying to race it professionally such a joke, you needed 5 kits to keep your one car running.
of course i don't know how the tamiya europe distributor handles things, but direct individual parts from tamiya japan directly I've never seen it.
You can definitely buy spare parts directly from Tamiya in Japan, however they will only sell these within Japan. When I was in Japan I did so with a few different kits in the past including the re-release Hornet, Top Force and Hotshot.
The Australian distributor is a joke though, they don't bring in some parts at all (even if it is an official spare with an OP or SP number) and it takes ages for them to get stock and then they still have to get it out to the hobby shops.
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Without Hijacking the thread, So Traxxas 32P pinions are made from steel?
Yeah the Traxxas Emaxx 32pitch pinions are steel. I am running several in my cars that originally were .8 mod with different tooth counts.
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Brad, 33.
<==== I live in Brisbane.
Still have my original Fox from when I was a kid which still gets run on occasion at Boondall.
I can only recommend that anyone that can make the fortnightly runs at Boondall should come out for a good day of vintage running and chat.
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The biggest struggle that I had was the lack of internet etc.
We did not do too badly, only just over 2m (6ft 7in) of water through the garage. I live on the second (effectively third) floor of a unit complex and I got the majority of my tools and the car out on Tuesday night before the water came up. When I got up to check on the water on Wednesday morning it was not far from coming into the entrance to the building and the garage already had about 400mm in it. By Wednesday afternoon we had lost electricity and gas and would have had to swim to leave the building, luckily all of the camping gear including the lights and my barbecue are upstairs. The water peaked on Thursday morning and by Friday morning the garage was empty. Electricity was restored on Thursday and gas on Friday after eight and nine days respectively.
The flood levels in the CBD were about 1m below the 1974 flood but where I live they were higher than 1974.
The clean up is over for me except waiting for things to dry out but I know people that lost everything that they own as the water rose to the rafters and above on two story houses.
I hope that every one else is OK and not just those in QLD.
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Yeh some 12mm adaptors are all you need.
They don't have to be the clamp type or even aluminium, you could use plastic ones that come in other kits. There are many different after market manufactures that also make them.
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Sorry for the nub question here but what does this part do and is it needed in order to run these wheels properly on my re release hotshot?this picture should help explain:
http://hobbytech.co.za/catalog/images/tam53569.jpg
they clamp to the wheel axle pins, they then provide the "hex" for which the wheel mounts. the inside face of the new wheel has a matching hex shaped recess. its a great system for mounting wheels securely.
Sorry my explanation was a little poor, they are the wheel hex and key into the back of the wheel. merckx's picture shows what you get in the parts bag. They replace the triangular plastic piece used with the original wheels and tyres on the Hotshot.
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I run these wheels on my re-release Hotshot and the only thing needed is some hex adaptors.
The parts that I am using are:
OP-569 (53569) Clamp Type Aluminum Wheel Hub (6mm Thick)
OP-788 (53878) High Density Spike Tires C (4WD/Front, 62/25)
OP-789 (53789) High Density Spike Tires C (Rear, 62/35)
OP-880 (53880) Large Dish Wheels (4WD/Front, 62/25)
OP-881 (53881) Large Dish Wheels (Rear, 62/35)
This is the same wheels as on the Keen Hawk but with the softer tyre option. These tyres have been discontinued by Tamiya and replaced by:OP-1187 (54187) RC Dual Block Tires C - 4WD/Front, 62/25 and OP-1188 (54188) RC Dual Block Tires C - Rear, 62/35.
Any modern 2.2 inch 4wd tyres will fit on these rims as well.
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is there a release date for this yet?
Tamiya Japan have January 15th 2011 listed as the release date for the Stadium Blitzer.
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The TC entry for the one in the video is here.
You should check out the rest of Grahoo's Showroom and his website.
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AHH a very familiar topic, Hotshot variants. Hi guys. So what’s the variation in the roll cage?
Additional vertical stay under the wing.
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Looks good, there is just something about the Hornet that says 80's Tamiya to me.
Now you just need a few more to run around with like this.
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There is an article describing the differences of the Tamiya bodies at Tamiya101 here.
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Well maybe Im wrong, was the Avante one of the Coffee Cans?
Yep, It was the secret one.
Only the Astute still to go.
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Ran it past the wife (Japanese is her native language) and it is a Marui Ninja rear stabiliser
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My Japanese is not great but I think that it is for a Marui Ninja.
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Sorry for the cut and paste from an earlier topic:
I usually go to Champ (the Osaka shop is a TC site sponsor), Super RC, Rakusei and Futaba Sangyo.
I do have a set of directions but here is an online set Akihabara RC Shops.
Just be aware that English (or any other language other than Japanese) is not spoken by the staff so it is best to know your part numbers first that way you can give them a list and they can tell you if it is in stock if you cant find it.
Champ and Super RC put a large catalogue in some of the Japanese RC magazines but they also put it online,
Champ click on each of the links running down the left of the page (1-14) for PDF's of the pages.
Super RC click on the links running down the page for the PDF's.
These prices will stay the same for the month (occasionally cheaper in store). The cheapest price listed for the kits is usually without any extras and the next one is with bearings included getting more expensive until batteries and full radio is added. Also keep in mind that Japanese kits do not come with an ESC included.
/paste
For me with the price differential compared to what Tamiya kits and parts sell for is definitely worth it (our importer sells to shops higher than what the full retail price is in Japan) but you would have to do the maths yourself to make the comparison for what you can buy things for locally.
The prices at the Tamiya shop at the headquarters and in the Plamodel Factory shops is at full manufacturers recommended retail prices but the other shops in Akihabara are significantly less. The headquarters building is worth a look but the are only two museum rooms as well as the foyer (and shop) so it is not a whole day destination in itself but you can incorporate it into another trip if you want.
As for getting the kits home do what I do and buy as much as your luggage limit allows and post your cloths home seamail
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More than some but less than others.
The cars themselves without any of the associated peripherals or parts are insured for $10000 (which is not necessarily what they are worth). I gave up on the spreadsheet a long time ago and no longer have a good idea of the total of what I have spent.
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Sry for that...
It´s totally bad in australia, it rains the hole time...
I think that you are not far off the mark here, well lately at least.
For the last month or so it has rained in Brisbane EVERY opportunity that I have had to go for a run.
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For the plastic parts I use a strong solution of clothes washing detergent. I put my parts in a tub with enough warm water to cover them and then add the detergent, in 5 litres I would use about what you use for 1/4-1/2 a load in the washing machine. This then gets left overnight. I then give them a quick going over with an old tooth brush before rinsing them.
James I will have to steal your idea for strapping the tub to the washing machine.
For the metal parts I put them all into a large glass jar (coffee or similar) and cover them with turpentine. I then give the jar a good shake every half hour or so for a couple of hours. This does not harm any of the parts or cause any oxidation. If you are worried about the effects of turps on the plastics when you reuse the screws etc you can then use a similar method but with a less aggressive solvent to remove the turps, however I have never had a problem.
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Both.
Well somebody had to say it
Seriously though if I had to make a choice it would be what type of car (2wd or 4wd) I would enjoy running more. For me it would be the Frog as I love 2wd.
I would also get enough radio gear to do a second car at the same time and get the Hotshot at a later date after some more saving.
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I usually go to Champ (the Osaka shop is a TC site sponsor), Super RC, Rakusei and Futaba Sangyo.
I do have a set of directions but here is an online set Akihabara RC shops.
Just be aware that English (or any other language other than Japanese) is not spoken by the staff so it is best to know your part numbers first that way you can give them a list and they can tell you if it is in stock if you cant find it.
Champ and Super RC put a large catalogue in some of the Japanese RC magazines but they also put it online,
Champ click on each of the links running down the left of the page (1-14) for PDF's of the pages.
Super RC click on the links running down the page for the PDF's.
These prices will stay the same for the month (occasionally cheaper in store). The cheapest price listed for the kits is usually without any extras and the next one is with bearings included getting more expensive until batteries and full radio is added. Also keep in mind that Japanese kits do not come with an ESC included.
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Well, as said lots of times earlier here, i am also afraid, there´s no way out of the ebay-addiction, but making place for more toys is rather easy. Simply begin stacking the darn things, LOL.
When that no longer works, get a bigger house.
Seriously though there is no hope for you. Most guys have the handbrake applied by the other half but if she is into RC as well then you have the major restraint put aside. On the upside you can use her cars when yours break (or use them for parts).
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As already mentioned I use the spray can lids.
I also use the containers that KFC use for their small coleslaw and potato and gravy or yoghurt containers once the original contents have been consumed. These can be sprayed with the left over body colour or black to help them blend in.
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Hope that you have a full recovery. The rehabilitation therapy can be hard but stick with it and the results will come.
The scariest thing that has happened to me was waking up in the emergency room of a hospital and thinking "This can't be good".
I don't really have any memory of the next twelve hours but I later found out that I had been hit by a car as a pedestrian.
I got off pretty lightly all things considered, lots of soft tissue damage, cuts an scrapes, glass embedded in my scalp, concussion, 16 teeth broken or knocked out, jaw broken in three places, leg broken at my knee and most of my knee ligaments/tendons torn in one leg.
It took 18 months to finish the rehabilitation programme but it was worth it as I can now function normally.
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Stock 540 motors?
in General discussions
Posted
There is a page for most of the Tamiya motors here.
At the moment Tamiya uses Mabushi (shiny) silver cans in their kits.
The Johnson (dull) silver can is offered as an option part OP.689 (53689) 540-J Motor.
The site has some of the stats for the two cans but what the real life performance is questionable.