Odd-N
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Posts posted by Odd-N
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Looks like TGX or TGR, but not having one to measure I'm not sure.
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You could wait for the new F103 chassis that uses touring car wheels, should be out in a couple of months. http://tamiya.com/japan/news/news0602/news1.htm#58367
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You could also use the long wheel axles and hexes , they give you 4mm extra per side. That combined with the Enzo wheels will make the car a total of 12 mm wider.
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They used copiers, they're Japanese remember?[
]Grtz Dee
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][]Nice one!! -
You can find the rules on the Tamiya USA pages, and it was TCS, not TCM, that was my typing error [
] It most likely stands for Tamiya Championship Series. -
I have read the TCM rules, but I wonder why the M03 and M04 really need different classes, why aren't they allowed to race together? I know they handle very different and need to be driven differently in corners, but with the motor and gearing restrictions, aren't they quite equal around the track?
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This is an excellent hop up for the sloppy steering on an M01/02. But an M03/04 is a completely different design and can not use it. Only thing needed there (03/04) is a high torque servo saver.
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Do you have the original aluminium piece that goes under the frp chassis??
Just a thought it might be missing[
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Well, the wheelbase on the F201 is 280 and the F103 has 260, but I have seen it done. Dont know if the body posts will line up, though....
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After reading your second posting here a little closer, I believe you mean you will operate the winch without the radio and just with a swich on the car. You can then ditch all the electronics inside the servo and just use the red/black servo wires via a swich that reverses the polarity directly to the servo motor. You still need to remove the end stop inside the servo though.
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"An M03 is just so much harder to drive that Tamiya had to give it softer rear tyres to try improve its handling."
Have I missed something here?[
]I remember that my old M02 Alpine had different tyres front and rear, but my M03L BMW Mini had same on all four.
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Hei, Du rægne vel ikke Bodø som "the big city", men sitt i allefall her å tænke på akkurat det samme.......[
]Enough norwegian.... most important rules are probably two wheel drive, silver can motor and gearing limitation for those with touring wheels.
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Wow, great little car, it even har the correct wheels to put a Mini Cooper shell on it, instead of that strange japanese thing [
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You can buy servos that does exactly that, they are called sailwinches and are used on sailboats. Or you can modifi a regular servo by loosening the variable resistor inside, and removing a "notch" in the servocase that stops the arm. Do not disconnect the resistor, just make sure it does not turn with the gears. You will need it to "trim" the servo so it stops in neutral. Have done this several times to make cheap anchor winches for my RC ships. Hope you understood what I ment....
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Ehh.... I suspect you both mean the same but just say it differently...
First it is not quite correct to say a shock absorber absorbs the shock, it slows the oscillation down after the shock. It is suppose to compress relatively easy and then decompress a bit slower. This applies to real car shocks, on RC cars most shocks have the same rate both ways.
Second you say in the same sentence that the oil is compressed, and that a liquid can not compress..... obviously only the last is correct[
]By the way the Boyle's law of termodynamics PxV = nRT is only useable on gases. But if you lower the pressure on a liquid enough it will turn into a gas.
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The 414 was the racing "prototype" of the TA04 so most parts except chassis plates, bulkheads and rear belt will interchange. As far as 415 goes I'm on thin ice, but I believe the suspension parts can be used,however I have not tried this yet. My TRF414 hasn't broken any parts so far......[
] I also believe there are 3 different versions of suspension for the 415. -
Yes the LA kit has rear toe in.
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Looks like an engine mount for a holiday buggy
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Well, i got it from my LHS, here in Norway, Tamiya and Carson has the same importer, so they had one in stock. You might start by checking out
http://www.carson-modelsport.de/de/modelle...duktdetails.htm
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The 53157 is hop up for the 4x10mm stepscrew. What you might use is the 53141 lightweight kingpin set. I don`t know the nr for the normal stepscrew sorry.
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Hi, that looks more like the Pikes Peak version. The Gr4 version has nr 13730 for the body and 69240 for the decals. Have just built one for a TL01 to use in the winter on ice. With studded tyres it will be a REAL drifter!
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The front nuts on any F-103 car should be the same.
However if originality is not an issue you can of course
use the flange nut.
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I bought a Brat shell years ago and the only thing that was already done to it was that cutout. Never found any use for it but it fits quite well on a XC-chassis..... maybe some day. I could scan the instruction and send you if you want. It is only a small pic at the bottom of the page that says "When mounting on chassis of Super Champ" and "cut off here"
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Any car with "TRF" in the name...[
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] It most likely stands for Tamiya Championship Series.
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General Part Tolerences
in General discussions
Posted
Worst one: M02 Renault Alpine (the original one) Horrible steering (even with the hop up) However, the nice thing about it is that I hardly ran it back then, so it is just as shiny today
Best: That's easy, my TRF 414 WCR...