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About kyoshofan223

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  1. Sorry for all of the posts - but I had to add this .. the support rep at Amain just told me "you can do whatever you want to do", clearly annoyed I had the nerve to ask questions about this website that is very confusing. He was also probably frustrated because I had to ask basically the same question 2-3 times & he didn't actually read it carefully & understand it well enough to give a cogent answer. I had a similar experience a while back trying to figure out a similar issue. I guess I finally stumbled upon a live agent that I'd prefer to be replaced by AI. I told him it wasn't the right tone to leave a customer with, but if he cared about that, he wouldn't have had that attitude. I guess you're lucky these days if you find a representative that cares at all about the impression they are putting out there & are just waiting for when it's time to go home for the day. With the same kind of ****ty attitude at the rapidly vanishing LHS... without cool new products, the hobby would be dead. End rant
  2. It's even got BROKEN LINKS on Kyosho's website on the official product page (either of the order links) ! Come on guys - amateur move. I'm also in a chat right now with an Amain rep trying to find out which of these kits labeled "Backorder" are actually never coming in..The Turbo Scorpion actually has 2 versions - one out of stock, another available to -pre-order. Or the Optima Mid where it seems to have a different status, but doesn't when you click in. Point is that they have no idea either (and are about as helpful as the average support rep anywhere these days). If you want any of these, I guess you have to pay a premium & try eBay ASAP. What a bummer. I think this Optima Pro has to be my last "Legendary Series" kit.
  3. The whole reason I was excited about the Legendary Series was a chance to build some of my vintage NIB kits without worrying about breaking something & having to wait 3 months for a part from Japan that I'll pay more for shipping than the cost of the actual part... I am anxious to finally drive a few that have been too rare to take off the shelf, like my Fantom. If the parts are quickly becoming as scarce as the originals... changes the whole equation. I see the Turbo Optima, one I thankfully picked up right away & have been having a blast driving it. So many of the kits are already showing "out of stock" at most online retailers. Super disappointing. I assumed they must have been doing great if there was enough interest not only to re-release the Fantom, but 3 frickin versions of it! I thought I was one of 10 people who even still cared about that car (any other old school 1/12 would be very cool as well). I'd definitely factor in parts availability when choosing kits to buy... I'd planned on the USA-1 nitro as the next one (though maybe I should wait until my pre-ordered Optima Pro💸 to actually ship first). Whoops - guess the USA-1 is actually GONE ALREADY 😡😡
  4. I have a bunch of these, and am trying to restore an old MKII at present, but am missing a few crucial parts. Anyone with old MKII spares lying around, please let me know... lots to trade as well. The body included with the rare 3P & Limited kits I have (pictured) is this one that is repro'ed by Team Blue Groove (but original). They refer to it as "Alfa" as opposed to the KS-2, yet it definitely doesn't look like the one pictured on the boxes; it is the one that looks like it has room for a passenger seat, whereas the ones pictured on the boxes have the windscreen that extends almost as high as the driver's helmet. Anyone able to shed light on this?
  5. I've tried this a few times & failed miserably. I have another scratched up chassis I really would like to restore, but the last time I sanded one down & scratched it even more, it just ended up worse than it was to start with. Anyone have before & after pics?
  6. I have to admit, I'm getting a little chintzy about the under-tray right now... It does look like it'll help in the look-cool department, but I'm not sure how I'll feel about running with it to have it do what it's supposed to (actually protect the chassis, etc.) at $41.28 each. No other options stateside. Maybe I've just ordered too many vintage parts from overseas where the shipping cost more than the actual part! I'm wondering if Kyosho will offer one that'll fit after they release the new Optima Pro. I have my body in-transit on its way to the painter, so I gotta decide now
  7. Thanks. I went with Kyosho's recommended (and wildly overpriced, but really shiny & cool looking ) motor/ESC combo with my Turbo Optima. While it runs great & is probably fast enough for practice laps at the track, it feels really slow for street runs in the neighborhood. I've replaced the SPUR, but I don't think the top speed is anywhere near what it should be; even with 3S. I'll have to find someone to take video of it (past attempts at driving while recording haven't turned out so well). More OT, do you have any suggestions for matching the green paint? I'm about to send mine off to the painter, and would love some more precise instructions than what's included in the manual - like a code or brand of paint that's closest. I think I'm going to go with a custom paint job, but still want to include plenty of that green. I actually sent a message to Akogawa on Instagram about it, but not really expecting a reply.
  8. I've had an NIB original one of these in my closet for 20 years, hesitant to even build it the thing was so rare. I wouldn't have just gotten an '87 Worlds if I knew this was coing..Though they seem to be re-releasing the exact originals I have in my closet - Fantom (who the badword could have predicted they'd make 3 versions of this one), Optima, USA-1 Nitro, Turbo Optima, sort of an Ultima Pro (JJ replica - tho I wish it was the standard Pro) ... next I expect there will be a Tamiya Falcon. I'm actually excited to get an re-re & finally be able to drive one, but I'm paranoid about getting shut out because they make so few of these. I don't want the only option to be getting one on eBay at 2x the price from someone who bought one just to resell it. Some of the 'legendary series' kits that aren't limited are still out of stock in most places. I'm tempted to pre-order one from Europe with an $85 shipping charge... Anyone hear anything or have an educated guess on the price point or if it's another very limited production?
  9. I can finally feel like I have finished the build... it really looks great, and seems to run pretty well during my indoor test. I don't see myself trying to hit the track with this thing though; feels too fragile. One thing that's bugging me... don't know how the heck to squeeze all of the wiring, including the Tamiya/Deans adapters & the lighting switchbox & still get the body to fit 100% right; I don't know why there isn't a dedicated space through which to route even the battery cable (or I'm missing something?). I think I do still need to put the lighting kit (TLU-01 Lighting Setup & Power Adapter) onto channel 3 on my radio if I can find the right cable with which to plug it into my receiver/switchbox. Anyone know which to use? I can't find one with a connector that looks like it'll fit into the lightbox.
  10. I am putting the finishing touches on my Wild One Blockhead Motors kit, routing the wires for the TLU-01 lighting kit. This is the first time I’ve tried to install lighting of any kind on an R/C vehicle, so forgive the rookie questions, but: 1) The only way to route the wires for the rear-most pair of lights seems to be through the front window, leaving them very visible. The only alternative I can see would be drilling out the existing holes to squeeze the bulbs through from underneath, which would still show the wires, but much less so. Is there a common way this is done? 2) The control box for the TLU-01 kit has a tiny switch that seems like it will be nearly impossible to reach wherever I decide to mount it, especially with the driver in place. I’m starting to think the 3rd channel on my radio might be the only way to comfortably control them. The adapter I see recommended most often is this Turnigy Receiver Controlled Switch, but from what I can tell, it doesn't have the right connector to fit into the control box. Anyone know of a switch that will be plug-n-play out of the box? Any suggestions appreciated! * Forgive me if there's a huge image attached here; it created one automatically when I pasted my text & I can't seem to get rid of it.
  11. Apologies; that was actually the wrong video...Man, this has been a rocky build. I tracked down the issue with the 4th light failure...thankfully I was able to order some new bulbs without paying for another overpriced complete lighting kit. After all of this work, I can't consider it 100% complete & move on to another project until I have all of the lights working. The other big mistake I made was attempting to paint the driver myself. Perhaps I should have bothered to take a look at one of the endless number of YouTube tutorials covering this technique, but that probably wouldn't have helped much. The body isn't too terrible, but I'll never get the helmet/face to look right. I've been looking for a pre-painted option, but thought I'd check & see if anyone here knows of another source for pre-painted options (the one in @toyolien profile photo looks great) , or even a quality freelance painter who does this kind of work by mail. I lost my local painter, and would have several projects (including some vintage & irreplaceable bodies I definitely wouldn't consider painting myself) for someone new. Thank you again for all of the support!
  12. I'd redone those steps twice & made the same mistake .. twice. I originally assumed I had the orientation wrong, but couldn't have imagined making the same dumb mistake twice.. but.. when you are too lazy to get your glasses from downstairs & and eat a gummy that's supposed to be right before bed, but decide to work on the car.... Yeah.. thanks for the help. Even with goofing up the decals & driver painting a bit, it came out OK, and actually seems to run pretty well. I added some rubber screens , which look cool, but there's one more cosmetic finishing touch that has me stumped. The lighting kit doesn't work. I am using some Deans adapters to work with the old school Tamiya plastic connectors (does anyone actually use those anymore??), but I don't know why that'd be a problem. I know the picture probably doesn't help a whole lot, but any of y'all run into any issues with the lighting kit that are easy for a dummy like me to get stuck on?
  13. I swapped them & had the same problem... that **** flanged nut is in the way
  14. I am stuck on this build. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong; the suspension has no travel because of a nut that’s in the way. I rebuilt the area twice and same result, I someone could please make me feel stupid, I would very much appreciate it.
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