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kaiser

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Everything posted by kaiser

  1. i'm already using a 20t (biggest you can get in there with two motor screws). my m03 with a sport tuned and 60d's is alot faster then my buddies m03 with a 17.5 brushless with 54mm's, but i'm having trouble in the corners. so far stock tires are working best on the carpet. i'm going to try sanding the m-grips and s-grips to see if they will come together because right now they have about 50 laps on them and they have terrible traction. if we were all running 54mm it wouldn't be a big deal.
  2. thanks bugjammer, i'll look into it.
  3. Thanks willy. i'll give it a try.
  4. thanks, but they've got nothing but rubber.
  5. do any of you fine gents know if anyone makes 60d sized foam tires for mini's? i have two cars that run 60d and we run on carpet, m-grips and s-grips are too "greasy", foam's would be best but the only foams i can find are 54mm, not 60mm. with the 54mm you loose alot of top end speed.
  6. i'd keep quite as well. pretend to be suprised and get her something alot nicer. lol
  7. kaiser

    HPI Cup Racer

    i just finished building a cup racer. what a cool peice of a kit. it's got to be the most adjustable car i have ever seen. i'll be running mine on a carpet oval, so i have it setup staggered.
  8. you must glue them on, if you don't they will fall off quickly. all modern rubber tires need glue, except for cars with bealock wheels and even then glue works better.
  9. i finally got some paint on my mini, after 2 years of ownership. lol first carpet race is tomorrow night.
  10. max amps batteries are way over rated. that c rating isn't true either, it's the max absolute discharge capabiltity that thye are using for c rating. there are threads all over rctech, rcu and other forums about max amp batts not living up to the hype. buyer beware, you may not be getting what you pay for with these batteries. i know a few racers that used to hail max amps, but have since switched to other brands, even turnigy.
  11. it's been a long while since i did any work on a tamiya.....until last night. my local track/lhs, where i race outdoor offroad, is starting an indoor carpet oval on thursday evenings. the only onroad car i have is an m03 mini cooper that hasn't been touched in over a year. i dug it out of storage last night, cleaned it up, read through rc-mini.net and set it up per their normal race set up. i pulled the 9t ezrun out in favor of a sport tuned and a teu-101. i ordered new tires, wheels, a lipo that actually fits, and a few other goodies. i can't wait to start racing. first race is next thursday.
  12. thats pretty funny, i'm doing the exact opposite. i just started racing a m03 on carpet. actually haven't even raced it yet, first race is next thursday. i've never raced an onroad car before, been racing offroad since the 80's.
  13. also keep diff fluid in mind, i like a lighter fluid in the rear diff, i run 5k-5k-3k. the lighter rear will enable faster corner speeds. 1/8 is so different from 1/10. this was my first season with a 1/8. we just ran our season closer, so it's going on a shelf for the winter.
  14. i'm familiar with the fdr of the hyper, but in my rc8be i run 19/46. it's probably the fastest car at our track, but i'm not trigger happy. my buddy runs a losi 8ight and is geared 17/46. i never ran 6s though since i only race it on a track. guys who run 6s at our track would use a 1400-1600kv motor. keep track of your temps, 1/8 bl motors can take a bit more heat then a 1/10 bl motor. 190-200 degrees f is tops (according to tekin) almost too hot. i like mine around 135-150f, some guys are happy to keep them artound 160d. but i run tekin motors and they seem to be able to take more heat then most. sensorless tends to run hotter, so just keep an eye on it and adjust gearing accordingly.
  15. 2000kv on 6s will be a missle. keep the kids away from that one. lol it should be fun though!
  16. the esc and motor ratings are max ratings and you'll most likely not ever see max draw. not sure what you are using the car for, but on my race 1/8 buggy (associated factory team rc8be) i use 40c 4500mah 4s packs. (i only run 4s, 6s seemed way to much). i use a tekin rx8 and a tekin 1900kv motor, both of which max ratings are really high, yet the 4s 4500mah 30-40c turnigy batteries are working great for me. they are cheap too, about $50.00 delivered. what kv is that motor? if it's higher the 1600kv then i think 6s would be insanely fast.
  17. personally i think the ar drone would be more fun as a spy heli, but the #1 problem is heli's are so loud.
  18. postie was good to me today: tekin rs esc and tekin redline 17.5 motor various bearings from avid, some revolutions and some ceramics this stuff is for a vintage racer i'm building for the vintage off road nationals. this year i'm building a very modified rc10. i also got some bits for a df01 that i may run at the race too.
  19. tires and punch setting will help, but the #1 thing you need to do is adjust your driving style. if it's got too much power then you just can't "punch it at speed" and expect it to stick. it's all about "finger" control.
  20. if you are buying a soldering iron, go for something with atleast 40-50 watts, the smaller irons are a pain to use.
  21. if you ever get the chance you should pick up a 5link jrx2, cool old car. i still run mine.
  22. the little screws weren't an issue for me on the b4, my rc8be uses them too. i know what you mean about the inch/metric thing. i keep all my tamiya and ae parts and tools in different boxes. nothing happend to me directly in regards to losi, i just have seen many failures/poor product design/poor support due to friends having them. i used to be a total losi fan boy when i was younger, but it's not the same company anymore. the new "tlr" division is promising though, but for me losi ended when gil jr left and horizon put the losi name on all sorts of dumb vehicles, most recently the losi strike. if i didn't already own the b4 i'd probably own the trf201 or the rb5.
  23. i'd go with the car that the 201 copied. the b4. so if the b4's not an option, i'd go for the 201. the 22 is cool though, love the chassis. but i'm reluctant to try losi again.
  24. if it fits (it's big and the wires come out the front) it will be fine. i run the same system (but with 5000kv 8.5t novak ballistic motor) in my b4 but with a 4000mah 30c-40c turnigy's. (i like the weight of the 4k's) whats the kv on the hobbywing 8.5t? btw, don't worry about lipo's being "too much", only worry when it's not enough. for most of our applications 30-40c batts are more then enough, it's when you get into the 8-10000kv range that you may need more c rating.
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