Bad_Boy_666

Anyone else experience problems uploading pics to the site?

Up for sale is my Original 1986 Tamiya Boomerang. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MESELX:IT Model number 58055 from 1986 Partially restored with original parts (not re-released parts) In very good condition for it's age. Upgraded ball raced bearings Bodyshell is missing but decals included (I sold shell NIB 2 years ago ) so no shell included. Many extra new spare parts included as shown in the pictures including an extra new front bumper. Still has the original box in VERY good condition in my opinion. I will also include a set of vintage Futaba servos and reciever but no transmitter included. I can't guarantee them working as they were last used 3 years ago. Reluctant sale, but no time to spare on this anymore and it seems a shame for it to sit on the shelf. Parts alone would cost more than this to buy now!

Yes I agree, But when I have replaced a number of items over a number of years, is it then a new build ??? I am no longer restoring an old model when all the components are available new to buy ? How will anyone know the difference between my restored model and someones 1 week old NIB ???

I have a dilemma...... I have got an original 1980's Thundershot....now ok it was used for its purpose but now some of the parts need replacing and I would like to keep it original. With the re-issuing of this kit (at a very competetive price) it has become increasingly easier to buy spare parts for this model. My problem is, that if I replace the worn and damaged parts like the front a-arms and chassis, am I creating a new Thundershot in an old box? and therefore is it still classed as vintage ?? If I go one step further and replace all the parts may just have well bought a NIB re-issue kit and put it in my old box !! Has anyone else experienced this dilemma with their Vintage Cars

Best thing is...I can't play with my other toys because I don't want to break them because of the cost of parts. I don't give a **** about this. I just didn't know what to do with it when I saw it. [:^)] The most original ? Maybe I will call it Stupid Sabre....lol. There's certainly no Super left in it

I agree, possibly the ugliest thing I have seen. Frankensteins monster would be a fitting name. Only problem is now I know what it is I will probably spend many hours and ££££ trying to restore it to it's original state.

Picked up a battered and used Tamiya? RC off ebay with some other parts I was after. Can anyone tell me what this is ?

Ok, servo can only be wired in one way, so why when i turn left on the control knob does the servo go right ??? I thought about moving the wires on the servo but there are 3 wires going in, 1 black, 1 red and 1 white so what is the problem?????

Interesting, but as you are actually pushing the 2 A Arms further apart to remove the play in the front, aren't you making the arms rub on the inside of the wheel ? This was my problem.

Thanks for the comprehensive advice. Just to make sure.....the Acoms switch that I currently have doesn't have a circuit board on the back. The part number is AC1 Power Switch (BEC) Battery Eliminator Circuit Does it have BEC in it ? and therefore I don't need a BEC reciever or do I still need to buy a new reciever ? Thanks

Have you ever thought of making the uprights for the Hotshot, Boomerang etc....The Thorp versions of these regularly go for 40-50 GBP on eBay ?

I've got Hotshot & Boomerang and have looked at all the models in this 4x4 series. They all have the same problem because of the setup. Parma did a kit #12855 Front Adjustable Upper Suspension Arms which replaces the original with adapted arms which allows you to play with the camber & caster of the wheels. This gives a slightly better turning circle but it will never be as good as the 2WD cars. Interestingly, how did you manage to eliminate all the play in the front arms. I am thinking about drilling the uprights by about 1mm top and bottom to push the ball joint further into the socket and so pull the 2 arms together. How did you set it up?

Ok thanks, I think I understand. Reciever is useless, however it was used in my MSC set up....I take it this was wrong. So the BEC is in the reciever and a A BEC switch is just basically an off switch for the reciever. My reciever is a Futaba FP-R102GS I cant see BEC on it anywhere. I shouldn't use this with my MSC and switch then ? This was how I used to run the car.......still a bit confused. Also I don't know about ESC-motor correlation. I know there are limits on the number of turns on the motor an ESC will take. I.e.the Teu will only go down to a 25 turn? so my 18 turn is too low. I don't know why. Is this something to do with current drainor something? Note.....Just looked in the manual....the speed controller comes with a Reciever Battery Eliminator. Does this mean the reciever does not need to be BEC because the switch is BEC and therefore eliminates this problem ?

Thanks for the advice, I can see where to solder the wires, but why would someone solder 3 additional resistors? to the main body ???? Each one has got 102k written on it. Should I take these off?

Ok, I understand that ESC is probably the best way forward if I am going to run my vintage models. I also understand BEC (battery eliminator circuitry) or I think I do. My hotshot was always going off on it's own when the batteries were flat and i broke several parts in my youth due to this. It also happened with my rebuilt Boomerang as I watched in horror as it dissapeared up the road, accross a grass verge, over the main road (luckily without any traffic) and into someones front wall, breaking the suspension mounts!!! Now I am pretty sure that neither the Sanwa or Futaba recievers I have got have BEC. But both speed controls have a separate on/off switch. Am I right in assuming that I don't need BEC in the reciever because it is already present in the form of this switch ? I haven't had to wel on any extra wires on or anything. It all goes together as it says in the manual. So where does this BEC come in ?? OK. also if I put in an ESC, am I right in assuming I dont need the one Servo because this replaces both the old MSC and the Servo. Does this now mean I don't need the On/Off switch ? How does the Motor correlate back to the type of ESC I will be using ? If I use my Mega Motor 18 x 2 turns, will I have problems? And what is the different between 18x2 turns and 18 turns ? Is this the same as running 36 turns ? Any help appreciated. I don't want to see my rebuilds running up the road on their own again!!!!

Amongst some parts I got on an eBay bid I recieved a Trinity Slot Machine 2 motor. The only markings on it were ROAR91 and EPIC 5.0. I don't know what any of this means. How many turns or what is the rating. Will it kill of my MSC in the Hotshot or Boomerang ? Also there seems to be an abundance of bits soldered on and no +/- leads coming off it. What can I do ??? Is this modified or is it meant to look like this ? Any help appreciated.

I have got a Hotshot 1 and Boomerang which I have painfully bought back to life. I have 1 problem which is similar on both models. When I have put together the front assembly . The Front Wishbones touch the inside of the wheel at the bottom and so cause friction. I have got a new set of wheels but I am reluctant to fit them because they will damage. Obviously running the cars with this friction is going to wear out the arms and at £30 + to replace I am reluctant to let this happen. Does any one know how to eliminate this problem??

Will probably go for the mtronik 4 RV15 as it is waterproof. Do you know whether this comes with all the connections. i.e. will it have a tamiya connector and does it have an on/off switch to replace the BEC circuitry or does it not need an on off switch?

Thanks Guys, the information was most useful. I will have a look at the ones mentioned. Although not restoring this part to original, I would prefer to keep my cars as runners and not shelf queens.

I had never heard of ESC until I started restoring my vintage models. I had to replace 2 MSC's back when I was a lad because they had burnt out and was considering putting a new ESC into my Hotshot for running purposes. I will most likely running a Kyosho 18 x 2 turn 540 motor which I have had for quite some time. Can anyone explain what all this reverse and forward gear options are, what motors I should be using and if the ESC can be fitted on a budget of less than £50 ? Thanks

I am also considering upgrading to an ESC for my Hotshot. Are there any rules that need to be considered ie I have seen on the internet that there are forward and reverse and some are limited to the size of the motor. I have a Kyosho Mega Motor 18 x 2 turns which I might put on. Does this have an effect on which ESC i should use ?[8)]