soulglow

Welp, I won't plug an auction directly here, but it'll be available on the 'bay in a few minutes. Check my trade section.

A tough one, when i first looked at it I said "AYK for sure" but of course my overconfidence will be my downfall. Shaft drive, mid mounted motor, actually a pretty decent setup not entirely different from today's 4WD racers.

Aw, I think Jersey Shore would be a bit out of my range or I'd come out too. A four hour drive is a long way to find out you forgot a frequency crystal or something. Maybe next time you all can gravitate west a bit (Philly maybe?)

I'm way over in the middle of Pennsylvania but will take any excuse to go to NYC..All anybody runs around here are sprint cars and RTRs, so I'm dying for some real old school bashing. I'll keep an eye on this thread, but something should happen here on the east coast...

That car uses (24) 5x11 bearings. You can find a cheap set of chinese bearings on ebay for around $10, and they're just fine. Search for "TL-01 bearings"

answer to both questions is yes. you could go to an electronic speed control for even more improvement

I could contribute a story too... I had an electric trainer airplane that had been built from a kit. We gave my grandfather, who flew P-38 Lightnings in World War II, a turn at the controls. He came in for a landing and put it in a tree, shearing off the wing. It then made a nose-first line for the dirt and shattered the front cowl, driving the motor somewhere into the fuselage. His response: "Huh."

This is the kind of hobby that can become an obsession after 30 seconds of exposure to it, so by all means let anyone that want to try it, TRY IT! Then you can sell them things. However, it is an accepted postulate that no matter what you tell them to do, they will point the car at the nearest item with a durometer reading > 200, and go full steam into it. Corollary: upon doing this, they will just shrug and hand you the controller like that was an act of God, while you go pick up the pieces. "Well... sorry 'bout that." I have a Twin Detonator expressly for this purpose.

The Dirt Hawg I's are killer on this machine...and have the nice effect of increasing the ouchy ground clearance as well. Check:

Great link (!), I hope my defiling of the tamiyausa.com servers with mass downloading won't hurt my chances of getting a job there.

One cell pushing off is almost always a sign of extreme current draw...whichever cell has the highest internal resistance will get hottest first, at which point its IR increases, so it sinks more current, gets even hotter, etc etc spiraling off into oblivion. I'll be thinking about why it's always the middle cell...I have some ideas and my curiosity is "all kinds of" piqued

ah, thank you Prince Google. it's a Latrax Corvette. I was asking, of course, because it's for sale. interest?

More info: The radio is an exact copy of the original Futaba wheel radio (2PL, is that it?) and is branded "LaTrax Corporation" in Garland, TX, uSA

I might be an old dude, but this one goes beyond my experience...it looks like it might have been a "toy" car, but all metal parts, real servos, etc. All the electronics say "Brilliant"...can anyone ID it or tell me anything about it?

In this case I'm using the Adspec GT radio...but the channel is marked "7", which at least in the uS is not a standard 27MHz channel. I'll try foolin with crystals to see what happens.

I've had at least 3 of the Tamiya C.P.R. units (combined receiver/ FET speed control) come across my bench lately and they all seem to have the same problem: when they're turned on, the steering servo works fine but the throttle does nothing. Strange facts: a)I don't smell any burnt chips and an internal investigation shows nothing funny. b)When I flip the power switch, I get that little burst of power to the motor where it just kind of glitches, like many speed controls do. c)It's not anything dumb. Is there a secret password for these things that I don't know about? Does it only respond to voice command? "Go!" Anybody else dealt with this? The one in question now is the P-160F.

That's what I figured, thanks. The Dagger is still active according to tamiyausa.com, but as mentioned the TwinD is a whole lot sharper. I wonder why the price difference? ...on the way in a matter of hours. Anyone know who/where sells the larger shock towers?

When I built my Mad Fighter I just left it with bare plastic and applied the decals to that. It ended up looking good and scratches didn't show up significantly at all.

Does anyone know the actual differences between the Twin Detonator and the Wild Dagger kits? The Wild Dagger is generally more expensive by $20 or so, but is the chassis exactly the same? I'm getting antsy about not having built a Tamiya kit in at least 3 months and I think one of these will be my fix: it's just a matter of which one.

Can anyone tell me anything about the Wild Commando? I know it's basically a Terra Crusher. Was it a full release in Japan? Someone's selling one on eBay claiming it's the only US-English kit in existance.