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backtomyroots

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Posts posted by backtomyroots

  1. If you don't already have them fitted buy the reinforcing plates for the central servo mount area, unless you are going to run the servos on the axles.

    Which plates do you mean ?

    Lots of helpful info, many thanks. Had a couple more questions..the mentioned esc's from Traxxas and Tekin are designed for one motor as I see only 2 leads. Splicing the 2 motors together isn't a problem?

    Also, for those who've removed the msc in favor for an esc, did you keep the power/economy switch wired in?

    Additionally, I want to keep the servo in its original location. Percymon, you mentioned servo plates. Any more info on them? I searched the bay and found ones made by Axial. Not sure if these are what I need.

    Lastly, I've been searching battery options. I found one that's a 7.2nimh, that splits evenly and sits on top of the tub neatly, to the left and to the right. Haven't heard any mention of it, so not so sure.

    Sorry for the many questions, your help is always greatly appreciated!!

    You simply the solder the motors and speed controller together usually in parallel. This then means you remove the mechanical speed controller and power/economy switch. If you don't want to solder get the Tamiya esc made for dual motors.

    (For best performance, mount the servo on the front axle and either lock out the rear or mount a second servo on the rear axle)

    If upgrading to an electronic speed controller you should buy new lipo batteries for best performance. I use several different traxxas lipos in mine and they fit in the proper battery location.

    If sticking with nimh there are several high capacity ones that will also fit in the stock battery location which is best place for them.

    Take the truck to a local hobby shop and test fit batteries for fit.

    • Like 1
  2. Hey backtomyroots I love the way your clod looks. Just wondering where I could find myself a set of those Tamiya gold shocks?oil? I prefer the look of those shocks over the full length spring types. They don't look quite as real.

    Tamiya Hop Up Shock Set #53369. I think they are out of production now but can be found on Ebay and in some stores.

    RC4WD also makes some options that look more realistic.

    http://store.rc4wd.com/Suspension-Shock_c_23.html

    • Like 2
  3. The clod can be run with basic upgrades to really make a fun runner.

    Axle mounted steering really helps for starters ! Inexpensive and worth it.

    I run the Tekin FXR Pro esc in both my Clod and Bullhead re releases. Has lipo cutoff built right in.

    I've added the old Tamiya Sport tuned motors too, though I think they are about the same as the stock silver cans.

    The pogo stock shocks are okay for fun running but an inexpensive tune up is traxxas big bore oil shocks which can be purchased for great prices.

    http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=115920&sid=7434

    http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=109770&sid=7434

    img7434_15052014145107_2.jpg

    img7434_06072014004105_4.jpg

    • Like 3
  4. The Tamiya TLU-01 Light Set Kit #53909 is typically powered from the running battery of the car by having the running battery plugged into it then fed into the esc.

    Is it possible to skip this adapter and modify it by soldering a servo lead/receiver lead so that it lugs into an open receiver channel to power it ?

    I'm tired of the bulk of the power cable it comes with.

    Or would this harm it or not provide enough juice for the LEDS ?

    img7434_23042014172901_4.jpg

    What I'm tired of (Tamiya connectors swapped for traxxas - ignore that fact):

    img7434_23042014172901_5.jpg

  5. Tough call - I always go to the specific thread I would expect to see the build in. For example, looking for a monster truck or scale truck thread ? I go to the Monster thread. Looking for a Semi Truck build I go to that thread. Same for re - releases.

    The same could be said for having builds "lost" in a build thread. Knocked right down to the bottom as new ones come along. The search function is another tool I use when looking for info on models.

  6. The higher the kV the faster the motor for a like for like rotor and can size. Similarly the lower the T rating the faster the motor. Stupidly brushless T ratings are not aligned to the brushed motor T ratings, typically a 13.5t/16.5t brushless will be equivalent to a stock silver can 27t motor.

    4 pole motors are torquier than 2 pole, so potentially could make better use of certain gear ratio options.

    Longer motor can lengths equal greater torque too, so a 65mm long 1/8th buggy motor won't perform as well in a truggy as a 70mm long version.

    You can only compare kV for a set motor size - a 10kv 1/18th motor is fast but only in its scale application.

    KV ratings are only an indication, one companies 3900kv could be a faster/torquier motor than someone else's 4300kv one.

    Hope that helps a bit

    Make this a sticky thread in the all electric thread I say !

  7. Well, still to do:

    • Paint black trim on front and rear bumpers, front grill (New ones in the mail)
    • Paint and add new tailgate (In the mail)
    • Attach mirrors (painted body colour)

    Project "paused" until new bits arrive. Here is a sneak peak of how it will look (Body colour is actually a touch darker but shows lighter in photos):

    img7434_27072014142207_1.jpg

    Full LED treatment

    img7434_27072014142207_2.jpg

    Decals strategically placed to hide holes in gate from too long screws :o

    img7434_27072014142207_3.jpg

    Update when new parts finished and added to truck.

    • Like 1
  8. Set back - screwing tailgate bracket on and screw came right through the tailgate. Had selected the wrong length screw while half paying attention to the build and Star Wars playing on the tv.

    :(

    New one ordered. For now, the hole is covered by a decal. Ordered a new front grill and bumper too as there were some minor wear marks.

    LEDS hooked up in the roll bar and headlights with an Axial Simple LED kit.

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