TAZ-NZ

Would mating a dual motor Juggernaut/TXT transmission to a set of TLT-1 axles be a recipes for disaster ? [] The reason I ask is I've got some free time on my hands while I wait for the parts for my current project to arrive, so I'm working on what I can do for my next project. I like the look of the original Blackfoot hard body, but the chassis has some major limits and I taken the chassis as far as I can go with my Mudblaster already. So I was thinking of doing something custom using the TLT axles as they have the same width tract as the original Blackfoot, I don't like the look of the wider wheel tract of most the newer Tamiya chassis, and I want it to go like badword, so I was thinking the dual motor Juggernaut transmission would give me all the power I'd ever need. So the idea as it stands is, to power a Juggernaut transmission with two Magnetic Mayhem motors, mate the transmission to the the TLT axles with Juggernaut universals & drive-shafts, and mount is all on a custom tube chassis with vertical shocks, add to that four wheel steering with hi-toque servos & feed it all with two 8.4v 7 cell batteries. Then top it all off with an original Blackfoot body & Big Bear wheels & tires, and paint it a colour that screams get the badword out of my way [] Am I crazy or could it work with a lot of luck & little good management ? [?]

I just hope they come with all the different gear ratios, so I can finally get the wire clip for the spur gear (part no "f 2"), and then I can start playing with sum more gear ratios on my Mudblaster. I probably buy one just for the compatible spare parts for my mudblaster, the rest who knows.

quote:Originally posted by miramarThe wheelbase of the Lunchbox body is about 210mm. "Cardesigner" modified a TLT to fit the Lunchbox-body id="quote">id="quote">I'm looking at the Idea of a buying a re-issue Lunch Box and mounting the wheels & body on a PTI Goliath MMT chassis, with a wheelbase of 217mm and 52mm standard ground clearance, the Goliath seems to be a better option than the TLT-1 for this mod. Both the TLT-1 & theh Goliath suffer from having a body that looks way to small for them, they both scream give me a bigger body.

quote:those front bumpers are effective protection but they look grossid="quote">id="quote">Chris, I'm with you on the bumper's looks, but it's there for the very reason you stated "effective protection", I built this as a runner/basher, and as such it has to take any kind of punishment I can hand out. But I'm doing my best to make it look good too. I'll post more pics once I get the last box of goodies I'm waiting for. quote:How do you find the Mayhem goes in this truck? I have a spare Mayhem - might give it a go.id="quote">id="quote">Bluefoot, It goes well, and is about as fast as you would want to go and still try to corner. (but in saying that, the crusty 1700mah NiCd battery I'm using is probably holding it back.) I wouldn't suggest running the Mayhem with the stock diff. ,it would probably eat the diff alive in minutes. I spent a lot of time on the transmission getting it to run as smoothly as possible, and the dog-bone setup really helps get the power to the ground. I went with the Mayhem as I wanted something better than the stock motor and while my ESC can handle a 17t, anything that fast would have killed the weak Frog transmission in secs. So I figured a high torque 22t motor was a good place to start. Once I get the steering sorted (there is a lot of play in all directions at the moment), I may see if I can get some more speed out of the setup, either with a gear change, or with a custom 10 cell battery. I'll probably only be happy once I've killed a couple of sets of transmission gears.

quote:I take it you didn't find many of those parts here in NZ?id="quote">id="quote">No it's mostly ebay finds, the courier has been knocking on the door at 6:50am, twice a week for the best part of two months now. I'm still waiting on a box of hop-ups and misc parts, as well as the lexan body. Once I'm happy with the build, I'll have a sort out of what I've got and what I need, and a lot of stuff will be back up for auction. I not sure yet if i'll put them up locally on trademe or back on ebay. Since I took the pics, I've fitted the CRP heavy duty steering blocks, something to do with a 40km impact with the roadside curb and ensuing three foot of air, that the already cracked stock items didn't like. [}] The front stock mount tower is also now braced, with the fitting of a Super Blackfoot B10 servo cover, and modified Super Blackfoot B1 Manual speed controller mount. This gives more strength than the original servo cover with the cable ties at the back. By the way, that's a nice collection you've got there in your showroom.

This is a bit of a look at me post, but I figured I'd share what I was doing. Here are some picture of my project Mudblaster. (original Mudblaster body on a modded Monster Beetle chassis. So far it's got: - Lower profile tires. - oldfrogshot's custom rear axles, with oldfrogshot's modified TA03 drive cups & TA04 dog bones. (more info here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/xforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8104) - CRP differential bearing supports - All new stock transmission parts other than housing and side plates. - Spur gear axle, mounting cups are super glued to transmission side housing to prevent them spinning. - Complete bearing set. - Parma rear sway bar. - CRP adjustable motor mount - 15t aluminum Pinon - Parma aluminum side nerf bars. - JG Heavy duty bumper. - Half stock, half JG heavy duty steering arms. - Custom lowered body mounts. - Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem 22x1 Motor - Hitec Hitec Aggressor CRX 3-Channel controller - Hitec DXC Dual Conversion Receiver - Hitec HS-325HB heavy duty ball bear servo Things come or no yet fitted. - CRP heavy duty steering blocks (stock ones are cracking.) - CRP Bushed front arm set. - Motor Heatsink. - Aluminum rear hubs. - Full length front skid plate. - Parma Lexan body. - Shock clamps. - Servo cover. Things I'd like: servo horn stay. JG front stock tower. I tried a 10t pinon but it felt to slow, and it had so much rear wheel torque, it lifted the front wheels half a foot off the ground, every time it took off from a standing start. I fitted the lower profile tires to reduce the ride height, and thus the center of gravity of the truck, to make it less likely to roll over.(it now will do a perfect on the spot 180 with out tipping.) They were also needed to clear the nerf bars. I lower the body mounts as much as I could, to match the lower profile tires. I plan to paint the lexan body metallic blue and apply an original decals set to it. I've got a cooked trinity 3600mah NiMh matched cell battery, I need to replace it. (it got super hot charging, my mistake) I'm open to suggests on how save the battery if possible or what to replace it with and the name of a good battery charger, so it doesn't happen again. In the process of getting the parts together I've also acquired 98% or a mint brat NIP, three sets of extra wheels plus some other misc wheels, a set of Airtonics 75hz radio gear i can use in New Zealand, and enough beat up parts to build 95 % of a black foot. plus a heap of other parts, and a few extra hop ups etc. If anyone has any other ideas on anything I might add or do to this setup, let me know. And what is it with frog family H-trees that makes people pay $100usd for them ??

All this rule does is course bidding wars, that inflate the prices of the auction items. This is only good for the sellers, it only hurts buyers. Lets take your examples for starters: 1) "Look at this really cheap, badly title auction..." I come across truck loads of items that are of no interest to me, or I just can't justify buying another one of, even at such a great price. But may be of hugely interest to someone else, trying to find odd ball part. Now if I post it yes the buy get more interest, but it also means that someone who may have been look forever can get the part they need, instead of someone with little interest in it, picking it up for a song and then turning around and re-listing it correctly at three times the price. (it happens all the time). You said yourself that it more than likely a dozen member have already seen the item, what's a few more. 2) "What a ridiculous Buy It Now price" These are good, because it teaches new members what they should & shouldn't pay for the item and why. It may seem like an ok deal at first look, but when looked at by an experienced eye may be a total rip off. But your right sellers have right to list their items at what ever price they like, but it still doesn't mean that they aren't on crack for asking three times the going rate. 3) "Don't buy from this crook" This one you've got to be careful on, one has to hope that the member posting this is being straight up. This type of post should be worded more carefully with the item be the focus of the post, but with an attached warning to would be bidders about the seller. 4) "Do you think I should buy this" This is a bit of a dumb a#% question, "what do think this is worth ?" or something to that effect may be better, but then again an experienced member may be able to point out something in a reply that helps the poster with their decision. 5) "Is this the worse car you have ever seen" A fairly pointless post, but then again, this type of post can be used to educate other member about what to look out for, or just a conversation starter. I must say, I think you included the last two just to make you case look stronger than it is. (but that's just my 2c) All the members here are into collecting or restoring and sometimes bashing Tamiya R/C cars. The forums should be used to share information with other members and to learn from them too. We should also use it to help each other find what we need to add to or complete our collections. Having an ebay finds forum works for the good of all in the end, if you want proof check out http://www.mcarterbrown.com/cgi-bin/index....orum&board=ebay "ebay finds" forum for classic paintball markers, everyone there uses it as a way to help other member to find the items they are interested in, and to help inform other members about what to look out for. They also use it to stop bidding wars between multiple members. It cuts down on bidding wars that only make seller richer, if everyone pays less for auction item everyone can have better collection, sellers may get less for there items but then if there a collector they don't have to pay as much for there next item. The only way it can hurt members is that it could have a noticeable effect on the average sale price of collectors items at auction, and thus reduce the value of there collections. But i believe if you are a true collector, you should be worried about how you would get if you sold your collection, only on how much it costs you to add to it. It's not like the forums has so many posts each day, that adding and ebay finds forum would just add more clutter. I think this site is a great resource, but the ebay auction rule is short sighted. Forum rules are a must, and I don't think this one is unfair, its just doesn't make sense to me.

I got a NIP set of pinion gears etc for that setup, if it's what Ideal2k described. it's got 3 aluminum pinions each with a different number of teeth (I haven't counted them) a set of left and right diff steal bevel gears, and what looks to be a brass center gear for the counter gear. I picked it up off ebay as part of an auction lot of brat/mudblaster parts. the bag is labeled X8412 frog gear set k1-k9 for 41