TAZ-NZ
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Posts posted by TAZ-NZ
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i found that TB01 front arms fit the TL01 chassis and are 4mm shorter , giving me a narrower wheel track ( track track ???) . i can still use the standard bones , just ! , 38mm pin to pin bones would be perfect . i then had to make up some adjustable top arms to suit the screw set up .these are made from a 15mm screw , shocky eyelets and half a servo mount.
Great looking project.
Just a quick question, do you know if the TB01 rear arms are shorter than TL01 rear Arms, like the front arms are ?
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Hey guys
Just wondering if it would be a good idea to use a 35t motor(tamiya cr-tuned) with a 6.7 ratio in a frog
i was thinking that i could get away with the low ratio because of the motor high torque!
(also by using the bigger pinion i could limit the torque going into the gearbox)
You will need to do the OldFrogShot Screw Mod, otherwise the torque will tear the diff up in no time. I run a Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem 22T 550can motor (loads of torque) in my mud blaster, run time on a new set of bevel gears without the screw mod is about 3 mins before the bevel gears are only fit for the trash. I've yet to tear up a diff since I started using screw mod.
The frog wheels are smaller that my mudblaster so the stress on the diff will be less, but the diff has always been the weak point in the ORV chassis, so I expect you will run into the same issues as I did, if you don't run the screw mod with motor with that much torque.
I'd also suggest getting a set of Frog Universal Axles
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I'm thinking of buying a TA06 Ferrari 599XXX. I'd like to build a high speed car out of it.
What does one need to get a car to go north of 60MPH....besides money?
I've got the radio cover already....I know a brush-less Lipo setup is the way to go. with a 3s battery.
Thoughts welcomed...This will be my first true on road car...
always had Tamiya (except for the Traxxas Wildcat) I'm sticking with a Tamiya car....
I've been planning a similar project, I'd highly suggest getting a TA06 Pro Chassis, and then buy the Ferrari Body, the TRF damper along are worth the extra cost of the TA06 Pro & you get a lot more with the TA06 Pro.
At RCmart a TA06 Ferrari 599XXX (58506) is $219.90 , a TRF Damper Set (42102) is $52.90 for a total of $271.80
Where as a TA06 Pro Chassis (58492) $235.90 and a Ferrari 599XXX Body Set (51474) $31.90 only comes to $267.80
The stock chassis tub has fair amount of flex at the front, that can mess with the belt tension, the cheap fix is the Carbon reinforced chassis tub (54316), but if you want to go all out a save weight at the same time, get the Exotek TA06 Carbon Chassis Conversion (EXO1167).
Kawada makes a low friction belt kit (TUB-601)for the TA06.
Another weak point is the stock front pulley mount which can flex, again messing with belt tension, Eagle Racing makes an Aluminum Front Pulley Mount (TA06-19). While you at it grab an Exotek TA06 Titanium Front Pulley Layshaft (EXO1175) it gets rid of the crappy stock e clips.
Tamiya makes Aluminum Cross Shafts (54311)for the diff, which can stop you tearing up the bevel gears, some people also recommend using 3 shims instead of two when assembling the diffs.
Less weight is also a plus if you trying to go fast, Tamiya does a titanium screw set (54307), and light weight motor heatsink (54315),
if you want to get crazy with the weight saving you can blow a couple of hundred lightening the drive line alone.
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And I need some tyres from somewhere - hoping the Street Rover ones will fit - because the current ones have dried up and have no grip at all!
eTamiya still have the Voltec front & rear tires listed as in stock.
Tamiya (#50761) - Tamiya RC Boy's 4WD Front Slicks (1 Pair)
Tamiya (#50762) - Tamiya RC Boy's 4WD Rear Slicks (1Pair)
I suggest roughing up the surface of the tires, new they have a very slick shiny surface to them. Easiest way is just to thrash the chassis around a smooth Asphalt car park for a couple of batteries, depending on the amount of negitive camber your chassis has, you may need to take the tires off the rims and flip them around to get and even finish. Once they are broken in they give a lot more grip.
Tamiya make foam inserts for them, but I'm not sure if they will help grip. Tamiya (#53318) - Tamiya RC Boy's 4WD Inner Sponge Set - Front , Tamiya (#53319) - Tamiya RC Boy's 4WD Inner Sponge Set - Rear
The wheels look great in white, I presume they didn't just come up looking like that when you stripped the chrome, I'm guessing you paint them, correct ?
I wish I had half you skill, I still have no idea how I going to paint my Willy's Wheeler 4WD project now that it's basically finished.
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The Robins Racing pinions I ordered came the other day, so I've changed the gearing from the stock Hummer ration of 11.27:1 to 7.31:1 with a 23T pinion & 69T Spur. The RR Steel pinions are great, but only Americians would use an Imperial sized grub screw on a Metric Pinion.
Took it out for it first run last night, it was fast but total uncontrollable, it would spinout as soon as you tried to turn at speed or dared to break. Did so many pirouette it threw the battery out of the chassis, we couldn't find the battery tie down or the body pins that we holding it in place. (Battery is currently zip tied in.)
I fitted a ball diff to the rear to try and control the wheel spin. (I've got another on order for the front) Took the negative camber out of the back wheels to try and plant the rear more. Also change the routing of the radio gear wiring, as I had a lot range and interference issue with it last night.
Ran it again today way more controllable, but still twitchy as badword, but the wheel base is so short there that's always going to be an issue. I think with some more pratice and a few more chassis tweaks, I'll be about to get it under control without make it boring to run.
Anyway my mate to a quick video me running it with his cellphone (thus the quality isn't that great), but you get the idea. (I think I was doing better that the learner driver in the back ground)
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Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the lunchbox/pumpkin wheels? Width and diameter?
thanks, jeff
The wheel rims are: Width 64mm , Diameter 55mm , don't have the messurents for the tires, as I have Big Bear tires mounted on them.
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After almost 2 years of sitting on a shelf collecting dust this project is back on and near completion finally.
So since I last update this thread, the chassis, has gained:
GPM front & rear carbon fiber damper stays.
Team Orion 19t experience 2 Brushless Combo.
TA04 39mm universal shafts all round, with TB EVO IV 46mm swing shafts up front.
TA04 TRF Dampers.
Hitec Servo & Radio Gear.
Ford Escort RS Cosworth bumper
The carbon fiber damper stays beyond looking cool, gave me more mounting options for the dampers letting adjust the ride hight more & solved the problem of the front damper mount being cracked.
The TRF Dampers, solver my ride high issues, the chassis is now a half inch closer to the ground that it was, which also resulted in the universal shafts being perfectly horizontal at rest.
The drive train with the universals is now super smooth and quite.
Lowering the ride high had another side effect of allow me to fix my steering arm geometry, the steering arms now run parallel to the front lower arms, all but eliminating bump steer.
Anyway here so picture of it as at today: (sorry about the quality, setting sun doesn't make for the best lighting angle.)
I plan to mount the body with ABC Hobbies stealth body mounts, I'm just waiting on a set of Porsche Cayenne Body post to arrive to fit them too.
I plan to change the gearing ratio with TA02 Skyline gear set, but I still waiting the robinson racing pinions I ordered.
I can't wait to get it out for a full run, the turning circle is insanely small, should do some great doughnuts.
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What gear ratio should I be running in my TA02 chassis with 19T brushless motor ?
I've got the stock 74T spur gear and the Skyline Speed Tuned Gear Set with the 66T & 69T Spur gears to work with.
I need a recommandation on the ratio I should run, so I know what size pinon to buy, I plan on running a Robinson Racing Steel Pinon, I already have an aluminum motor mount.
The other catch is I'm running RC Boyz tires & wheels, they are larger in diameter than your stock touring car wheels, but also smaller in diameter that the DF01 buggy wheels.
I'd be very grateful for any input on this.
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Does anyone know if the Tamiya TEU-103BK ESC, will handle two Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem motors, they are 22x1 550 can motor.
I love the torque the have and they come in both forward and reverse, so they are purfect for the Twin Detonator chassis project I have in planned, I just not sure if the Tamiya TEU-103BK is up to the job or if I have to look else where.
I'm only going to have room for one battery, and it's going to a basher ,so I really don't want to tie myself to the expense of a 14.4v setup.
I'd be grateful for any feed back on this.
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61mm on the front & 70mm for the rear. Measurement taken from a built Twin Detonator.
Thanks, that was the final bit of the puzzle I need.
The front arms are a little longer than I was hoping they were, but if I move them to the rear and combine them TL-01LA Rear Uprights they should give me the rear wheel track I want.
And I've already confirmed that a combo of TL-01 rear arms + TL-01 front C-hubs & Steering Knuckles, combined with TG10 long axles & hexs, will give me the perfect front wheel track and wheel clearance I need.
I planning to shorten and narrow a WR01 chassis (probably a Twin Detonator) down, so that the Wheel Base and Wheel Track perfectly match an those of an original Blackfoot, when top it with an orginal blackfoot body & a few other mods.
I got the idea from look at B.M.T. shortened Blackfoot III http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=111974&id=23759 ://http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_...4&id=23759
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I'm working on an idea for a WR-01 Chassis mod, but I don't have one at hand to check messurements, I need the lenght of both the front & rear lower suspension arms, measured from the center of the pivot points.
If someone can here me out with this I'd be very grateful.
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My Grasshopper II sports vintage Proline Strikers mounted on 2" Imex RC10 wheels, rear wheels are fitted with modified adaptors form an HPI 6120 Rear Adapter Set.
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Hi guys,
Just after some feedback on the CRA rear stabilizer, does anyone here have one or used one on their car before? if so are they worth having, are they functional or just bling?
Cheers,
-AD
The CRA rear stablilizer is a modern reproduction of the old Trinity rear sway bar kit (I posted CAD drawings a few years back), I'd rate it as a must have for any Blackfoot, Mud Blaster, or Monster Beetle runner. It solves the roll over problem that occures during hard cornering at speed, Tamiya widened the wheel track of the later Super & King Blackfoot to try and solve this issue.
With the rear stablilizer fitted there is a lot less body roll in the corners, which means you can leave the power on more and turn in harder without the fear of flipping the truck corner over corner (I've totalled a blackfoot doing this). I don't know if it will do much for the Frog or Brat they have much lower stances.
If you've already done the oldfrogshot mod on the diff and are running a hopped up motor, you'll want the rear stablizer to keep your truck the right way up.
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need help with willies wheeler body dimensions(body only not whole car.)
length,width and height.please.
thanks
skip
200mm wide at front wheel arches.
205mm wide at rear wheel arches.(widest point)
305mm long
132mm tall at sunroof opening. + 8mm for front bumper lower lip.
Wheel base on my custom 4WD chassis is 180mm
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I was looking at this 1986 promotional picture of the Black Foot last year, and couldn't help to notice the resistor attached to the gearbox รก la Frog. And what about the clear windshield? I have had two Black Foot trucks, and never seen such things in the manual or the box! But still, promotional pictures of the Black Foot show these differences. Are there any stories behind this? I hate smoked windows, and lately Tamiya have been making one after another for hardbodied models
It's probably just a production prototype, the Blackfoot is just a modified Ford F150 Ranger body on a modifed Frog Chassis, with Bruiser tires. So the blackfoot in the pictured just has the older clear Ford Ranger windows installed instead of the tinted blackfoot production items, and it's probably much the same deal for the frog resistor mount.
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The from outset I do not plan on sticking to the original Monster Beetle in terms of mechanics and body colour and design. I want to make a MB that looks 'cool' and goes fast. My wish is to make a car strong enough I can give to my 8 year old son (well that's the excuse).
Have of a read of my Blackfoot reliability mods list, you may find it useful if your building it to be a basher.
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Front lower arms are CRP for a Futaba FX-10 items, CRP #1632. I seen it seen it done on Lunchbox but not on a Grass Hopper.
Having seen this I plan to mod my Grass Hopper II in a similar way, with a little luck I bet able to retain the stock FX-10 lower shock mounting position.
I have no idea on the rear end, but nice mod.
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Luck is with me, I found my super hornet instruction manual.
ok so the spacer is part number BL8 from the superhornet kit rod bag, the measurement is 5x5.5mm
problem is, the bag is discontinued from tamiya... there has got to be another bag I can buy from them that has this part in it, since this is a common gearbox
if your spacer measures the same Ill pick it up, but I dont have a grasshopper manual here
The Super Hornet has the same gearbox as a Lunchbox, you'll find the part your after in a Re-release Lunchbox Screw Bag C, Tamiya Part Number: 9465657
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Seen a couple of these floating around the bay and was thinking of picking one up. I am not really familiar with them, are they any good?
Be careful your actually getting a vintage item, if you paying vintage prices on ebay, I've seen atleast a dozens re-release Brats being pass off by sellers on ebay as the originals items.
The sellers do little more that swap out the ESC for a MSC and mouting plate, trim the battery post to the vintage lenght and remove the under guard, some go so far as to source brat fiction shocks. If you know what to look for you can pick which are fakes and which are not, some seller use very carefull with their camera angles to hide parts that give away a re-release.
Personally I'd look around for original Brat that is a total wreck on ebay, just for the spool diff, and the do the same with a orginal frog just for the brass counter gear, then grab a re-release and build up a great runner.
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Have a read of my reliablity mods guide. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...=20#entry308362
The Tamiya 23T Superstock BZ or TZ offer good torque and speed without blowing the budget.
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It was done a few weeks ago with DF-03 gearboxes grafted to the Hornet tub front and rear.
It's not actual that complex, you can see from the pictures he's retained DF-03 battery compartment, it's basically a complete DF-03 chassis but the side pods have been removed for the chassis tub.
It look like he then cut the front off and gutted the center of a hornet chassis tub (possible split in down the middle too), and basically slide it over the top of the modified DF-03 chassis.
Moved the servo forward and mounted it on top of the battery compartment and squeeze the rest of the electronics into the remaining space.
The body has just had the nose section cut off and trimmed to fit over the DF-03 front Diff and attached in place, the rest of the body has been trimmed clear the front shock tower and had holes added for the DF-03 front body mounts, but otherwise is basically stock.
It a very cool looking mod and would be relatively simple to replicate, that's not to take anything away from Grahoo achievement, it probably took a fair be of time to work out how it would all fit together, and I'm sure getting the rear of the hornet chassis tub to fit around the DF-03 rear transmission was a lot more work than one might first expect.
It cool enough that I may have to make one of my own one of these days, need to finish a few other projects first but.
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Both should give you the same wheel track, but different hex wheels have different offsets.
With the HPI items the stock wheel hubs are retained, so you have axle pin, Tamiya wheel hub, HPI adaptor, wheel, hex nut.
With the Tamiya items, the aluminum adaptors replace the stock wheel hubs, so you have axle pin, tamiya hex adaptor, wheel, hex nut.
The HPI are cheap and get the job done, but the tamiya item is probably the better solution.
I modified a set HPI adapters to allow me to mount RC10 wheels on my Grasshopper II.
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I guessing your looking for 2.0 Buggy rims (wheels), there is very little out there and whose that are are impossible to find because for some reason no one will state the size of a wheel or tire unless it 2.2" or larger, all other wheels seem to be referred to by which kit they are most commonly fitted too, which tells you nothing about there sizing.
2.0" buggy tires are just as bad if not worse, there are number of hard to find vintage items out there, but nothing still in production other than factory items as far as I can find. Really wish some one like Proline would start producing 2.0" tires and wheels again.
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Thanks guys, just the kind of responses i was looking for!
Taz, thanks for listing the parts for me, i am guessing its just a straight forward strip and rebuild with the new gearbox in place?
Yeah basically. Only thing I recommend doing while you've got the front transmission out is, unscrew the steering servo mounts and apply a good amount of loctite to the screw threads before re-installing them, I don't know what is about the WR01 chassis but the steering servo always seems to work itself loose, a little loctite will save to a bunch of hassle in the future. I'd almost go so far as to recommend a pair of aluminum servo mounts from the likes of yeah racing would be a good investment.
new project '' TL01 half-track ''
in General discussions
Posted
Thanks for the quick reply.
If you use TL-01LA uprights with with the standard TL-01 rear arms, you can shave off about 8mm on each side.
I'm only trying to shave off a 4mm each side, so it sounds like the TB01 arms might just do the the trick.