TAZ-NZ
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Posts posted by TAZ-NZ
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The aluminium gears wear faster because the aluminium is softer than the glass reinforced plastic used for the gears.
Tamiya aluminium gears appear to be just raw alumium alloy (probably 6061) , if they were anodized they would have better wear properties.
If you want a light and durable alumiun gears, you want them made of 7075 alloy and then type 3 hard anodized, which would give them a surface with a 60-70c rockwell hardness, making them very wear resistant.
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It's a problem with all Grasshopper II s , It's a problem for almost all tamiya cars with uneven steering rod lenghts actually.
I solved it on My hopped up Grasshopper II by centering the servo save to the chassis, I used a Hitec Mighty Mini Servo, and re-inforced the left side of the chaissis with two part epoxy putty and then widened the opening for the steering linkage to the right so that it became centered, I then made custom equal lenght steering rods to connect it all together.
The steering opening in the image is a little narrow and resticts the steering travel, but it did solve the problem of uneven steering, widening the opening in both direction and a longer servo saver will solve this.
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Does anyone know if the Super Fighter G body will fit on a Manta Ray chassis, the mounting points look about right, and it looks like the S.F.G. body will clear the manta diff and front shock tower ok. I know the DT-02 chassis is 5.5" wide at it's widest point which is the same for Top Force FRP chassis, so width shouldn't be and issue as long as I go with a FRP chassis.
What I really need to know is the distance between the centers of the front to the rear body mount posts and the amount of hight difference between where the body sits on the post front and rear. I know the DF-01 chassis of the Manta Ray is 9mm longer in the wheel base than the DT-02 chassis, but the difference is probably in the suspension arms not the chassis, I can shorten the FRP chassis plates to make the spacing of the body posts correct if need be, but I'm hoping to avoid that as in means a lot of work to get the prop shaft the right lenght.
Anyway if anyone has both cars, and can test fit the Super Fighter G body on the Manta Ray chassis, or can just meassure the spacing of the body post on one or more of the these cars that would be great.
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The Super-G rear wheel Tamiya Part number is: 49025 and the front wheels are 49022.
Hope it helps.
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I'm no expert on the DF-03 chassis, but I been looking at a DF-03RA chassis as the base of my next project and thus have done a bit of research on it. Most of the differences relate to the suspension, longer shocks, suspension arms, tie rods, drive shafts and wider shock towers, all other parts are interchangeable.
On top of the Hop-Ups available from Tamiya for the Dark Impart, like the Slipper Clutch, Front One-Way Diff and Heat Sink Bars, there are a number of companies that make hop-up parts for the DF-03 and DF-03RA:
3Racing hop-ups for DF-03RA and DF-03.
Yeah Racing hop-ups for DF-03RA and DF-03.
GPM hop-ups for DF-03.
As usual with after market hop-ups there is a mix of useful and pure bling parts to choose from.
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The only ones I know of are the Thorp and Robinson Racing ball diffs. There could be others I guess, but I've never seen them.
The CRP ball diff is very rare, as in only 4 comfirmed sightings in last 2 years, I have one in my Mud Blaster. The Thorp ball diffs are very common or they get around a lot as there is one or more on ebay just about every week.
The robinson is not as common from what I've seen, and atleast one CRP ball diff has been mistaken for a Robinson in the past. There is a ball diff made PARANOIA also it seams.
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Need help ,does anybody know the size of the thrust and diff balls in a blackfoot crp 2112 ball diff?
please let me know.
thanks skipp
p.s. and i thought i new eveything about orv's.
Just message the spare balls for mine with digital calipers: Diff Balls are 2mm, Thrust Balls are 1.5mm. You need 9 of the large diff balls and 56 of the smaller thrust balls (28 per side).
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any updates?
Here you go.
After a number of dead end attempts
to find compatible parts to sort out the steering and drive shaft, I finally got it all sorted this past week or so .I also final finish modding the lower chassis plate, so it clears the front wheels at full lock.
The steering is made from CEN GX1 Steering Link horn set, Top Force steering rods, and modified HPI steering posts (I could have used CEN GX1 steering posts)
The drive shaft is a Associated RC10 T4 RTR rear axle dogbone, I had to open up the slots on drive cups a little to accept the associated dogbone.
I've been working on the body to over the past month or so, I delete the antenna hole and the hole for the stock bumper, and gave the whole body a few coats of white primer.
I the chassis is basically done now, I still need to give it a test run but. I also need to make a rear body mount clip and fab a rear body mount hoop, I also plan to make a rear wing.
I have no Idea how I want to paint the body at this point and my painting skills are on the limited side, but I kind of like the idea of doing something along the lines of the Tamiya 1/32 Honda City 4WD.
I want to make a front bumper like the stock Willy's Wheeler "city" item, I was thinking of make it out of a CRP plastic nerf wing for a Frog , but I can't find one on ebay at the moment. If anyone has one they want to part with I'm interested, I could also do with a scanned image of the stock Willy's Wheeler item next to a steel rule.
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Gruntfuggly, can I ask what wheels and tires those are ?
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The link on my original post has been dead for some months, and while I kept a copy zipped on my harddrive for those people the sent me PM to see if I still had a copy, I figured it was time I updated it a little, and posted it where it was availablet to everyone again.
So here it is again, there have been a lot of changes, a few additions here and there a couple of new mods to replace old expensive ones, a few old spelling mistakes corrected and probably a dozen new ones made
How to tweak a orgianl Blackfoot chassis to be a modern day runner.
(applicable to Original Blackfoot, Monster Beetle & Mud Blaster)
This list of tweaks and mods for orginal blackfoot chassis, that will increase it's strength, reliablity, and handling, without effecting it's basic looks and character. It's based on the knowledge I've accumulated over the last four years while building, repairing and modding a number ORV Chassis kits.
Note: the following presumes you have a stock chassis that is complete and in basic working order. If you haven't already download a copy of the Blackfoot manual, it wouldn't hurt to grab the Super Blackfoot manual too.
To start with is a list of mods that should be done to any blackfoot chassis before using it as a runner.
1) Get yourself a Super/King Blackfoot B-Parts Tree, Tamiya part No: 9005350, as picture below, you will also need six 3x8mm self tapping screws (parts BB6).
You want to remove the original servo cover (part G9) and remove the original aluminum MSC mounting tray, replace this with the plastic B1 part off the new B-parts tree and screw it into place with four of the 3x8mm screws. This allows you to mount the new servo cover (part B10) to both the front shock tower (part J11) and to the new B1 part using the remaining two 3x8mm screws, in doing this the new servo cover acts as a brace the front shock tower. This greatly reducing the chances of breaking the front shock tower.
2) Get a new set of Frog/Brat re-release diff bevel gears as pictured below.
These should always be replaced on any used chassis even then they look ok. This is the greatest weak point of the whole frog family chassis and always wear badly. (For the fix for the wear issue see item 3)
3) Buy a set of Frog/Brat universal joint axles, Tamiya Part No: 53908 (note get them from ebay they are cheaper there), you will also need 2.5x25mm counter sunk screw, some lock tight, and diff grease.
Apply the oldfrogshot's screw mod to the drive cups, use the screw to hold the drive cups together as per the mod, apply some diff grease to the head of the screw and the bottom of the unthreaded drive cup so that it slips with ease, use the lock tight on the tip of the screw thread to lock it in place in threaded drive cup as pre the mod. (the screw mod is a must do, unless you like replacing the bevel gears ever half dozen battery charges)
4) Ball bearing kit, replace all the plastic bush bearings and the stock transmission bearings with new bearings. If you using the stock blackfoot spur gear you'll need ten 5 x 11 x 4mm bearings and two 10x 5 x 8 x 2.5mm bearings, if your using the Frog/Brat re-release two piece spur gear you'll need twelve 5 x 11 x 4mm bearings.
This takes a lot of the slope out the wheels and axles and makes them run smoother. (Note: Many of the ebay bearing kits don't include enough bearings to replace both the plastic bushes and the shock bearings, so are best avoided)
That ends the first section of must do's, now onto the highly recommend mods.
5) Buy a Super blackfoot/Dush Devil damper bag, Tamiya part No 9405685, cut the rubber tube SD8 and fit to radius arm screws, as seen in the picture below.
This helps remove a lot of slop out of the front suspension.
6) Presuming your using a modern radio gear with an ESC (Electronic Speed control) you only need one servo, so get your self some continously threaded rod. Mount your servo at an angle so that it's is centered to the chassis as, in the image below. At the same time I suggest binning the stock servo saver in favour of a Kimbrough Item.
Then make new steering rods by cutting the threaded rod to length. This fixes the un-even steering and makes the car corner equally well in both directions. (don't waste money on ebay heavy duty steering kits)
7) Pickup two sets of Yeah Racing 80mm alloy shocks and some damper fluid, these can be picked up cheap on ebay, and a huge improvement of the both the stock friction and CVA shocks, as they have threaded adjusters and multiple spring sets so you can adjust the spring rates and pre-load to improve handling. (Ther are avilable in blue, silver, black, but don't come filled with damper fluid, so you need to purchase it seperatly.)
8) Pickup a Mad Bull Steering Arm Bag, Tamiya Part no: 9415376, a Super/King Blackfoot F-tree, Tamiya Part no: 0005419, 2x BA7 3mm Flanged nuts, and 2x 3x20m count sunk bolts.
You only need the left & right uprights for the Mad bull steering bag, fit the left upright to the super blackfoot F3 part and the right to F2 part (this is the opposite to the super blackfoot manual) to do this you can either cut down the black stock BM3 parts to lenght or grab a Super Blackfoot rod bag, Tamiya part No: 9405687 and use the BS4 parts from that.
Then mount onto each of the uprights using the 3x20mm counter sunk bolts and the BA7 3mm flanged nuts, a bolt though ballend like those circle in the picture of yeah racing damper kit above.
Replace the end of the shock that attachs to the front suspension arm with a smartard 4mm rod end and clip this over the ballend you've just mounted, everything else mounts just like the stock item.
9) Pick your self up a set of Re-release Frog/Brat pressed parts and a 3x8mm screw (part BB6), remove the origirnal short aluminum under tray and fit the longer frog version of the under tray.
This braces the front of the chassis better and stops it flexing, which helps handling.
10) Remove the posts for your newly install plastic MSC mount (see picture below) and fit your receive there so it is protected under the servo cover. (don't mount your ESC here it will tend to overheat)
11) Get yourself two 3x20mm screws (parts BA3) and two 3mm nuts (parts BA7), remove the screw holding the rear body mounts (parts J1,J6) to the chassis, replace the original 3x15mm with the new longer screws, once the screw clear the chassis place the nuts on and tighten them down. This stops the body mounts moving about and helps prevent the G1 part breaking. (the G1 is extremely hard to get these days)
12) Think about getting a set of CRP heavy duty rear shock mounts.
Replace the stock items (parts J8,J9) with these, they flex less that the stock items and help the keep the rear shocks straight, reducing stress of the rear arms. (These are a vintage hop-up but are fairly easy to come by on ebay)
13) Replace the rear swing arm support (parts K3,K7) with the aluminum frog items you got with the pressed parts.
These don't flex and help keep the rear end from sagging. Grease them with candle wax to help reduce wear. (I suggest getting them Annodized black or painting them black to keep the stock look)
14) Use the two screws (parts BA4) you took out of the body mounts, and get two 3mm nuts(BA7), remove the screws mounting the shocks to the rear swing arms, With a drill bit the same diameter as the BA4 screws, enlarge the shock mounting holes in the rear arms so that new screw just fit with out needing to be screwed it, re-assembly with the BA4 screws using the 3mm nuts to hold them in place.
This reduces the stress of the mounting holes and helps stop them cracking.
15) Pickup a complete set of re-release Frog/Brat transmission and pinon gears and make sure you get the wire C-Clip.(note the original brass frog counter gear & a steal pinon will wear better than the re-release aluminum items) Also see if you can pickup a CRP adjustable motor mount or the modern CRA Preformance version pictured below.
This will allow you change your gear ratios and run non-standard gear combos, a must for tuning your setup to match a modern high preformance motor.
16) See if you can hunt down a Trinity rear sway bar kit, helps the rear end a no end, stops roll overs when corning at speed & stop the rear swing arms (parts B6) spreading, which causes the the rear axles to jump out of the drive cups.
CRA Preformance also makes a reproduction version of the sway bar kit now, that can be found on ebay from time to time.
17) Get yourself tamiya style hump pack battery that is designed to fit an old school frog/blackfoot chassis battery compartment, or if you have need for speed like me, get a custom 8.4v 7 cell pack made.
That's it for now, keep on bashing.
One of these days I'll be able to bring myself to tear down my blackfoot at take pictures of all the mods, but until then sorry to those poeple who's pictures I've nicked.
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How much are they?
At Tower $145usd on Ebay as low as $130usd.
By the look of it's specs it seems it would be a perfect motor/esc for a stock Tamiya chassis. Not so overly powerful it will break it and wear it out in a few runs.Orion have always released good products that's I've known, I'd expect this to be no different for them to put their name to it.
One thing I notice is the can size is smaller than a 540. Should still power a 1:10 along fine as I've seen the Mamba25 fitted to TT01 before with very good results (usually for 1:18 scales) which is smaller than this motor.
Another few other budget systems to compare it to are the Ez-Run and Castlecreations Sidewinder systems.
In the long run you will end up infront with a brushless. I needed to replace my brushed motors every month atleast when running offroad. Since going brushless I've bought 2 motors (4600Kv and 5700Kv) and 1 ESC in 2 years. Both motors are still going strong with much use.
This will be my first step into brushless, I want to get away from the maintance & other issues of brushed motors, and the prices on brushed systems are now at a point they really don't cost any more than a good brushed setup. The Team Orion seems like a nice setup, compact, lightweight and with a fully sealed can , and like you say power output seem well suited to your average tamiya kit, I'm not out to set any speed record just find a nice reliable setup that a step up from my current Brushed + NiMh setups.
I looked at the ezrun system, and I know they are popular but something about them is put me off, don't know if it the too good be true prices you see on them some places or that ugly blue heatsink on the motors but something made me look around for other options. The castlecreations combos I haven't looked at as yet, I'll have to do a little more research on them. I now I don't want anything as extreme or as expensive as the Novak systems but I don't want to go to cheap either.
I'm in no huge rush to buy, rather do it once and get it right rather than have to do it again a couple of months later.
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I've looking around for a cost effective Brushless setup, and the Team Orion experience Combo look good but I can find very little in info on them, I guess as they are relatively new to the market.
This is the Team Orion Vortex Experience 40A ESC
and 3220kV Brushless Touring Motor Combo.
FEATURES: Ideal performance upgrade for brushless powered RTR on-road touring
cars
Sensorless brushless motor design with aluminum alloy anodized
front and back plates
Genuine carbon fiber center barrel in motor creates a tuned magnetic
field
Forward and reverse electronic speed control with auto transmitter
recognition and setup (no setup button needed)
INCLUDES: Vortex Experience Touring Car Motor with Connectors ORIC8171
Vortex Experience SL 40A ESC with Tamiya style battery plug and three
gold motor connectors #ORI65005
Instruction sheet
REQUIRES: Installing in vehicle and connecting to battery and receiver
SPECS: Touring Motor-
Resistance:0.019 Ohm
Current Draw: 2.5A
Turns: 13
Kv Rating: 3220 RPM/V
Max Efficiency: 84.5% @ 32A (210W)
Max Continuous Current: 32A
Max Current: 60A (efficiency 80% = 3800W
Length: 1.7" (44mm)
Can Diameter: 1.2" (30mm)
Weight: 4.9oz (140g)
Shaft Diameter: 0.125" (3.2mm)
ESC-
Input Voltage: 6-cell NiCd/NiMH, 2-cell LiPo
Maximum Continuous Current: 40A with cooling fan (not included)
25A without cooling fan
Peak Current: 90A
Resistance: 0.0033Ohm
Weight: 1.5oz (42g)
Length: 1.3" (34mm)
Width: 2.4" (61mm)
Height: 0.24" (6mm) without fan
Anti cogging
SLD (super linear drive) throttle control
COMMENTS: Team Orion rates this ESC at 40A when used with a cooling fan which
is not included. The maximum continuous current without a cooling
fan is 25A.
Has any got one of these combos or had a chance to have a good look or play with one, if so I be interest hear any comments you might have about it.
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That is a tidy mod on TAZ' GH2 (is it a bit tight with the electrics?). Going to try out my method on my spare chassis (when I have time and find a shock of a suitable size) and see how it looks.
There is more room in there than you might think, there is no longer room for the stock MSC setup, but my eliminating the MSC and throttle servo and replacing them with a ESC you gain a lot of free space.
Here's a picture of my Grass Hopper 2 with full electronics.
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That's come out awesome. Good work, matie.
For your center drive shaft, you might get away with using TLT diff joint cups and a Tamiya buggy length dogbone.
Just a thought.
Yeah that's probably a would have been a good way to go, but I've already order the TA02 dog bone prop shaft hop-up, I'll still need to get a different lenght dog bone to make it work, I was thinking the Manta Ray rear dog bones looked about right but I need to check sizing.
I had planned on using a shortened XC prop shaft, but the universally are larger than I expected and don't clear the transmission housings. I do still have two XC rear propreller joints that are a purfect substitute for the for the slotted TA02 propreller joints, and have the flats needed for mounting TLT diff joint cups. The TLT cups will probably wear better than the TA02 aluminum dog bone cups, I may look into that one in the future.
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I hadn't seen this topic until now... It looks really nice so far! It may be a little hectic because of it's short wheelbase, but that's the fun of SWB cars isn't it?
Wheelbase is only ~178mm so at low speed I expect it will turn on a dime, not sure what to expect in the handling department at higher speeds. Should be fairly statible though it has a very wide stance and the battery is basic smack in the middle of the chassis now, plus most of the weight is low down even when allow for the very tall and heavy body. It should be a total blast to drive and that's what I'm hoping for, when finished I want to take it along to an open to all race day just to see what looks I get
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Well after an unplanned hiatus this project is back on track.
I picked up a set Top Force FRP plates and modified the lower plate to suit my needs, I didn't need the stock upper plate as I was able to make the new short top plate from the off cut of the lower plate. The shock steering servo mounts are a little to centered for my needs with is a pity, but final postitioning of steering servo will have to wait until I have the rest of the steering sorted.
Anyway here are some pics of how it looks right now, still need to trim the front edges of the lower plate to clear the front wheels at full lock, and a couple of the countersink holes need a touch up as the screw heads don't sit flush.
The last parts I need for the steering should turn up with week, I've got a set of aftermarket HPI RS4 bell cranks from GPM coming, they should drop straight onto the Top Force steering posts.
(Yes they are that horrible HPI pink/purple colour, but that will change when I get them.)
I starting to think about electronics I want to run when It's finished:
- I plan to use a Hitec DCX receiver like I have in my other cars, it nice and small so if I mount it on it's side it should fit nicely between the two chassic plates in the area forward of the battery.
- For the steering servo I'll run a standard Hitec HS325HB, they are cheap as chips and haven't had an issue with one yet and I don't think the chassis calls for anything more.
- Battery wise I'd like to save a bit of weight, so I was thinking getting a Team Orion Carbon Edtion 3200mah LiPo, at just under 200g it's the lightest standard size battery I've seen.
- For the motor and ESC I like the look of the new Team Orion Experience Blushless Combo, I like the light weight and a full sealed can. Be nice if they included the fan for the ESC though.
Has anyone have any experiance with one of these combo's yet? I did be interest to know what other think on this one, It will be my first brushless setup and it seam like a nice setup to start out with.
More updated will hopeful follow in the coming days.
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Am I the only person who laughs inside whenever I spot this when browsing eBay...
I use to work in a tech support call center, we had a running joke amongst the team about the word "Dongle"
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You'll be waiting a while, as Tamiya only seem to be making models based on prototypes that appear in Japan.
Kharmann Ghia two tone please, and a BMW M3 or C6 Vette
That's only logical, Tamiya probably sends a team to the Tokyo Motor Show each year to see what's new and what might make a good kit. Doesn't mean they can't make kits designed after cars made it other parts of the world.
And If I have to pick a prototype from the Tokyo Motor Show, I'll take the Mazda Furai.
Only problem is it would have to be a hard body that comes in a half dozen or more pieces, because of all the complex curves.
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Thats how I did the stabi at mine TA-02.
Hop it would help you.
Thanks for the pics, my problem is that I'm not using TA-02 rear suspension arms which are swept back, I'm using TL01 lower arms on the rear which mean my setup is closer to TA01 items where the rear arms are slighty swept forwards, so I have almost no clearance between the motor and the swing arm to fit the vertical link.
I don't, and I've just slapped my forehead.. because I just remembered I got the stabilizer mounted that way when I was using the CEN GX1 rear setup, which I've since striped since I lost the toe adjustment blocks that supposed to fit on their uprights hinge-pin hole. I'm such a mess as of late..Thanks anyway, I had a look at a couple of Cen GX1 chassis image to see what you might be talking about, and think I can sse how you would have had it setup. I had a look around CEN's website and may have found a solution.
The anti-sway bar kit for one of CEN's other kits contains vetical links that look to be about 2/3 the lenght of the TA02 sway bar verticals. If I replace the standard ball connectors that the upper arms attach to the rear knuckles by, with long threaded ball connectors and then screw to them internally threaded ball connectors on to the other side of the rear kunckles, I should then be able to attach the anti-sway bar using the Cen anti-sway verticals, If that makes any sense.
So in this image the vertical link would connect the ball connector on the anti-sway bar to another ball connector fitted oto the upper link mounting point of the knuckle.
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My vote is for an Assie Ute, preferably a HSV Maloo R8:
If you want a better look at body lines have a play the 360 view in HSV's Vehicle configurator.
A lexan body would great change from all the other touring car bodies.
A Hard body version with working tail gate & tonneau top for the scaler guys.
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No physical progress today, still waiting on some parts for the prop shaft and steering. And I still undecided about how best to mount the body.
What I have been doing is meassuring everything on the lower plate and putting those diamenstion into a CAD file to get this:
Still needs some tweaking before I make it from aluminum.
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Wow, that looks good Taz.
I think mounting the receiver on top of the servo might be the other option.
Also, the rear stabilizer bar vertical links can be fitted to the uprights instead. They don't have to be mounted on the arms. This, however, will limit the amount of camber adjustment you have, without binding the links. I got 02 stabilizer bar installed in my 01, same issue, so I relocated the vertical links to the upright -I'm using the stock, non-adjustable camber links anyways..
Have you got a picture of how you have the stabilizer is mounted, I'd be very interested to see it if you do. I've got an idea how to do it myself, but it's always good to see how other people solve a problem.
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Maybe some help there as I went through this myself:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...39&id=11170
I have detailed pics of the servo if needed.
Cheers
Jerome
Very cool dude.
Funny thing is I actually looked at doing a Stratos build myself before setting out on this build, I even looked at your car in the showroom when looking for info on available bodies, I took no notice of the chassis as I figured I would use a M03 chassis, lack of avilablity of the rally light accessory and a love of detailed hard bodies sent me looking for something different to build and I ended up doing this.
It shocking how similar my build has turned out to yours, Hondabiker's 4WD Mini and the Wild Willy 2 Conversion were the inspiration for my build, but you would swear looking at your Stratos that I was copying it's design, I even looked at mounting my steering servo upside down like you have yours at one point, but there wasn't enough room between the battery and the front diff assembly for the servo horn. Great minds think alike it seems
What's the wheel base on yours ? and what kit is the front bumper off ?
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Just a thought: Why not make the top plate a little wider, so you have room for the receiver up top? Less chance of getting a wire tangled in the drive shaft that way.
Looking forward to seeing this one finished. This is a really cool idea.
I'm little limited with what I can do with the top plate, I can't go any further to right with it because on the prop shaft, but I may be able to widen it to the left a little and move the servo over some, then I can mount the receiver beside the servo. I'll have to wiat for the steering parts to turn up to confirm what will work in regards to the steering servo's position.
Anyway here the lastet progress pic:
I added wings to the lower chassis plate and fitted the Top Force battery holders last night, I got all the transmission parts I was waiting on today, so the front diff & rear transmission are fully assembled, greased and ball raced. I fitted the adjustable upper suspension arms, which solved the issues I was having with the TL-01 upper rear items, it has all new axles, dog bones (39mm rear, 42mm front) and screws, etc all round. I tried to fit the rear anti-swap bar, but no joy the sway both the TL01 & TA02 swap bars are two short for this setup and there isn't enough clearance between the motor & the left rear suspension arm for the vertical link.
to find compatible parts to sort out the steering and drive shaft, I finally got it all sorted this past week or so 
Tamiya Blackfoot Mod?
in General discussions
Posted
Yes it is correct, the Blackfoot Xtreme, Wild Dagger and Twin Detonator are all based on the WR-01 chassis, the Blackfoot Xtreme has a dummy transmissions at the front to make it only 2WD.
To convert a Blackfoot Xtreme to 4WD you need the following parts:
- WR01 assembled transmission, Tamiya Part number: 8085153.
- Blackfoot Xtreme Parts Bag A, Tamiya Part number: 9400076 or Drive cups (9805368)+ Dog Bones (9805551) + Stub axles (50823).
- The spare C11 bumper mount & C20 bumper (left over from the blackfoot xtreme build if you get them) or a C Parts Tree, Tamiya part number 0005688.
- Dual Motor ESC, Tamiya Part Number: 45037 or the cheaper MSC, tamiya Part Number: 4505174 (but I highly recommend the ESC.)
- Couple of 3mm O-rings.
You can see for yourself in the Tamiya exploded views of the Blackfoot Xtreme and the Twin Detonator how few pars are actual different.