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Welcome to the Forums! The short answer is yes. You do not need rear axles but you will need front axles. They used to press in, I think now you buy the entire upright. But, there is a big difference between the original Pajero chassis and the Lunch Box chassis the new one will be used with. There is no reason to convert to the old style, despite being bigger the Lunch Box is far superior because of battery placement. The early one cannot use stick style packs. It can only use 5-cell and hump style o8ooo 6-cell packs mounted on the highest part of the chassis. You can convert the new chassis to the old style using Tamiya Hornet part tree D rear swing arm mounts in place of the truck parts, removing the battery tray and front chassis extension blocks, reattaching the front swing arms to the existing holes in the chassis, and shortening the shocks. I cannot remember the parts required to relocate the steering servo but you will need to do that as well in addition to changing to a Hornet pinion. That will make a slightly quicker but much less stable vehicle.

Won't the gear ratios be a bit tall for off-road?

My Fox is in pretty good shape, great body/wheels, I even have extra arms and driveshafts. My problem is my chassis is cracked beyond repair. New replacement chassis on the bay are awfully expensive and just as fragile. I'm also afraid of buying another car that may have hidden cracks as well. My question is did Hot Trick make an aftermarket chassis for the Fox? Did anyone? Even if it's out of production it would be easier to copy an existing one than to design a custom chassis from scratch. If anyone has made their own Fox chassis please share your ideas with us. I've been thinking about some sort of hybrid with a more durable chassis from a different car.

You can find it even cheaper as the HSP Kulak. I was selling these for $129.99 USD. I'm keeping the last one as a scaler project.

The Kyosho Cosmo has an upgraded front suspension that uses A-arms. The only problem is finding a Cosmo front suspension tree. I did some research on these because I have an Icarus.

I have dual Traxxas titan 380's in my Redcat RS10. They are powerful with a lot of rpm. My truck is geared 50:1 and is still pretty fast. The stock motors are high turn I think 50T or 60T. Those are going into a scaler I'm working on. The esc was great and had no problems but I went with dual Traxxas XL2.5's so I could mount them on the axles. Here's some more info and a video of it.

Sounds like a Royal Ripper. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...=3832&id=37

The jerk in me said, "How on Earth do they expect someone to know what they are talking about with that vague description?" Then the geek in me said, "Hirobo Celica." I am embarrassed by my jerkiness and my geekiness. Here's the Pug version:

There's a lot of tips in this thread http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=59027&hl= and this one http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=59096&hl=

HPI Body Tuner Kit Type A- has an intercooler HPI Body Tuner Kit Type B- has an oil cooler 54139- Tamiya Body Accessory Parts Set- has an intercooler too No radiators though

I have too much RC on the brain. At first i thought, "There's a Wild Willy 3 coming out??!!" Then I realized you were talking about World War 3.

My ultimate dream build would be a NIB Blackfoot with the following NIB parts: 2x CVA shocks 1x Ball bearings 1x Frog gearset 1x Parma/You-G rear swaybar set 1x Thorp diff/axle set 1x Super Blackfoot front arms (wider) 1x CRP heavy duty steering 1x CRP adjustable motor mount 1x CRP rear bumperset 1x JG f/r shock mounts 1x CRP shock tower brace 1x Futaba 2MC 112B 1x Futaba Magnum PCM with Corona 2.4ghz conversion 2x HPI Geolander tires 1x Monster Beetle wheels 2x Hardware for custom front tension rods 1x Frog skidplate set 1x Kyosho 360G motor 1x Hitec 645MG 1x Kimbrough servo saver

RC Sport Tuned Motor Item #40514 is a 370 sized motor for Tamtech Gear cars. From personal experience I am pretty sure the Sport Tuned motors are 23T. Seaking of 23T motors. This Kyosho is pretty nice Kyosho xspeed thread They say its a 23T triple. I have one and it has some revs. I haven't compared it back to back with different silvercans and the Sport Tuned but in a bone stock Pureten alpha 2 it keeps up with fully modded tt01's with Johnsons.

The sport tuned also has much softer brushes. It needs very little break in to seat them.

Most oem silvercan motors are 27T. From my experience the manufacturer will mention somewhere in the literature that the motor is less turns. My MRC Q-Tee coupe came with a nondescript 20T silvercan. On the box they say it is a 20T motor. As far as I know all Tamiya silvercan 540 motors are 27T. The Traxxas Stinger appears to be a mabuchi and it is a 20T motor.