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Billus McFlunday

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Posts posted by Billus McFlunday

  1. hi mate,

    a mate of mine and i were wondering the same thing sdo we cable tied the upper shock mounts to the control arm. yes this did restrict movement but the track we race on is dead flat nd we were running a fairly hard setup anyway... we also fitted swaybars to the car... on a side note this makes for a perfect drift setup hard springs already at half travel and hard sway bars!!! DRIFT HEAVEN... TT01 and TL01 drifing round our local carpark side by side d1 style...

  2. Hey guys,

    I'm in australia goin down the same path at the moment... i have decided to go for the spektrum 2.4ghz system better designed, and COMPLETLY FREE OF ANY INTERFERENCE!!!! every device that runs on 2.4 must have anti clash technologiy built in, so no conflicts, also it is higher than any mechanical interference so no longer will power stations, electric motors, or as some mates and i discovered the other nite, a public bus give us interference.... whats better is you attach the receiver with velcro and if you want to change models just unplug from one car and plug in the next...

    price wise not too bad here in aus... spektrum have also just realeased their own receiver....

    http://www.spektrumrc.com/DX3/Default.html

    i'm just waiting for my lhs to get me a price....

  3. * Twist dagger *

    Actualizing the powerful image which keeps exceeding the obstacle gradually, at low speed of pleasant construction series " 4 wheel drive car construction basic set " with the RC, this twist dagger. It is not speed, the uncultivated land it is the RC machine which keeps running the whole distance with torque of the motor and grip of the tire. The based car çq with cutting off the chassis of the wild dagger which becomes in the center, in order to be twisted at front and back, you remodelled, expanded suspension stroke to the 160mm substantially from the 50mm of normal. The motor to use the geared motor 3633k36, as for last deceleration ratio 1: 565.2 It reaches.

    Basic specifications

    Dimension & weight

    - Total length =426mm - full-width =310mm - total height =221mm - roadspace =35mm - gross load =2500g - chassis total length =395mm - wheel base =281mm - also tread = front and back 250mm

    Chassis

    - Material = special strengthening resin + carbon plate - form = monocoque

    Steering wheel

    - Isometric 2 divided direct systems

    Suspension

    - Form =4 twist of wheel double wishbone + chassis central part - damper = Æ’ÂÂ[Æ’tÆ’Å Æ’NÆ’Vƒ‡ƒ“ƒAƒ‹ƒ~Æ’_ƒ“ƒpÂ[Æ’ZÆ’bÆ’g (OP.155)

    Drive system

    - Drive system = twin motor * full-time the 4WD - the power source = Æ’^Æ’~ƒ„ƒMƒ„Â[Æ’hƒ‚Â[Æ’^ - the 3633k36 (AO-8001) - gear ratio =1: 565.2 - There is no diff. gear - speed control = moving back and forth 3 step speed change speed controller system

    Tire

    - Also tire width = front and back 60mm - also tire diameter = front and back 130mm - also wheel = front and back normal

    Body

    - Material = polycarbonate + ƒvƒ‰ board - body of form = wild dagger remodelling

    In addition

    - RC mechanism =2 channel * receiver + 2 servo - 7.2v Ni angular battery use

    * The case where you remodel the kit we ask on responsibility of the customer.

    Concerning the publication magazine

    This model " radi-con magazine " magazine December of 99 was published to the edition. Eightfold state publication price 510 Yen (including tax)

    when you want to translate a web page ASK GOOGLE!!!! lol just cut and paste the web addy into the search bar and presto it will find your page and have a translate webpage link beside it...

  4. evo 4

    not the ms tho... get a hold of an australian release model... they fixed alot of the problems thicker chassis, better sus mounts... much better car. one of the guys at the hobby shop as a demo built a tc4 and evo4 415 rs4 the evo was the best car straight out of the box...

  5. don't get me wrong dj, there are quite a few hobby shops run by people who wouldn't know the slightest thing about electric. every body knows gas and hold the oppion that if you want to go fast buy a gas car... except on our track, the gas car record is .01sec faster than the rebuildable stock... even the distributors are usless... i have been waiting for 5 months for speed tuned gears and every time i call to find out where they are they say on a boat... i'm not sure where they are coming from but it must be a very slow boat!!!! the local sales rep from this distributor (i was picking his brain when he walked into a new hobby shop that opened up the road from my house...) he didn't even know about the spektrum radio system. it was launched in australia at the toy fair, he didn't know the first thing about it, not only that he couldn't even find items in his own catalog!!!!

    There i go again ranting and raving. i guess the moral of this story is go to lots of different hobby shops and suss them out you will soon find one that you like, with helpful staff and resonable prices. i have spent a lot of time driving around untill i was happy with my choice of shop... don't get me wrong i shill shop around but i generally purchase all my stuff from the one shop...

  6. yeah if your local newsagent keeps racing lines have a look in the next issue for a write up of my local at beaudesert... I will say that beaudesert is a hole but the hobby shop has built a top class purpose built facility!!!

    i say don't bother buying another car... use your ta02 throw a silver can 540 in it and circulate. then when you feel confident buy a monster stock and go for a run in rebuildable stock... thats where the fun is... that way save your money for the tings you'll have to buy later better charger, better batteries, suspension upgrades, etc. not to mention anything you break along the way... don't even consider running mod... if your local track is anything like mine unless you have a tyre warmers, 3400 matched and zapped racepacks, setup station eg money to burn.. don't bother... i used to race mod at my old track but i was just for fun as we raced in a country town cwa hall... wooden floors, foam tyres lots o sideways action!!! we had a ball. we had about 6-10 people racing mod but we all had fairly simaliar setups eg tt-01 tl-01 ta04 all relativly stock cars with basic hopups, but we all ran motors about 19-23 turn due to size of track and any more power just resulted in stoopid amounts of wheelspin... now we all run rebuildable stock we have a feild of 15 now and it's only the 5th race meet at the track since opening!!! the guy who controlls racing is expecting that soon we will have to split it into classes mabey a monster stock class, a core stock, modified 27turn (mainly for those of us who have v2 endbells on order!!!) and possibly even an evo4 class!!! we now have 6 racing in our club!!!

    1 more thing before i stop my ranting and raving, i know every1 on here supports ebay and our online retailers, start going to your lhs drop in and chat to them, don't pick their brain and not spend anything, i prefer to buy my cars from the lhs and pay a bit more but i know that if ever i have a problem i take the car in and the boys will look at it and tell me what the problem is and how to fix it. they also look afer you when you are buying bits and peices then too cos you've spent a lot of money so tey look after you... also generally these are the people that run your race meets if you contine to support them they will continue to support the sport. you have to remember that they run a buisness if every1 went to ebay they would go broke and we would just have to go back to the carpark GP for our racing...

    Ok Ok i'm gonna get off my soapbox before some1 pushes me off!!! lol

    Billus

  7. Hey mate,

    Where in aus you from??? I'm up in qld.. i have 2 tracks i can race at but both are approx 1 hr away...

    I too was in your situation a little while ago. i started racing with a 2nd hand tl-01 that the owner of my lhs raced down at nationals in the tamiya cup... but i have out grown that now and need some thing with better handling. i recomend starting with a basic car don't worry about racing, just go out there and circulate with the other guys and try to go as fast as you can but the aim is to get as many laps in a row without having to get a marshall to touch your car. my record is a 3rd place finish with 2 touches in a 5 min race... thats what i aim for because if you can be consistant and keep it off the walls ultimatly you will end up towards the pointy end...

  8. are you using a alum pinion?? if you are i'd bet money that the pinion will be stuffed and each tooth will be bent different ways. and the rattle is the spur slipping against the pinion. if you fix the pinion by replacing it with a steel one you might save the spur. this happened to my mate but he distroyed the spur, he has been waiting 2 months for the parts....

  9. i recently had a number of problems that seamed like radio issues... the problems i occured were more like interference alth the problems i had could cause the same symptoms that you are experincing...

    what chassis are you using?? does the antenna cross accross the motor or the power wires from the batt to the speedy?? or across the power wires for the motor?? if it does reroute the antenna wire so that it dosn't cross over any of these things, cable tie the wires so that they stay as far apart as possible..

    it could also be a cracked crystal...

    also check that the crystals are the same as your receiver eg 27 and 27. and same with your controller.

    those are the more likely causes to the problems... if that dosn't work let me know...

  10. one of the boys at my LHS have a 6x1 in a tl-01 on a msc800c. problem lies not in chassis twisting (that sounds like **** to me, I studdied physics in school that is a strong chassis design, little to no twist possible)it lies in suspension setup.. they seam to bumpsteer on uneven surfaces... at high speeds it will be uncontrollable as it will be hopping and jumping all over the road...

  11. as far as a better handiling car the tl-01 is the go... faster tt-01 my mate and i have one of each.. mine is tl-01 both with the same hopups. we were told this by our LHS so we tested this theroy... we setup a track and had single car timed races and counted laps. also we both raced each car 2wce.. we both agreed that the tl-01 was just the better handling car but the overall speed of the tt-01 was handy. i personally beleive that the tt-01 tends to hold better aerodnyamics due to the bathatub chassis - less turbulance under the body shell..

    Has anybody else found this..

  12. correct me if im wrong but isn't the TA-04 a belt drive?? I'm sorry I didn't say earlier but i'm after a shaft drive... Word has it that alot of the world champs are going back to tb-02 and hopping up 2 evo 3 spec due to evo3 shurikan limited avalibity...

  13. very nice.... But he won't sell outside us and canada... I'm in Australia... the only main differences between the tb-o2 and evo 3 is a few carbon bits upper and lower deck suspension mounts that sorta stuff... ta 04 i've never seen 1 in aus what are they like??

  14. just a further note to what shopkeeper said, I grabed a set of eagle springs (i assume all the others are much the same) and have found that the best possible setup is super soft on the front and soft on the rear... my current problem is too much bodyroll but a set of stiff swaybars should clear that up...

    the thing that worrys me tho is (correct me if i'm wrong shopkeeper) but the standard springs in a tl-01 are equal to medium springs but longer, so if that is creating a suspenion setup that is too hard for the chassis you really need to find a smoother surface to be racing on... Or stop jumping your touring car!!!

    Billus McFlunday

    Drift is a contact sport....

  15. Hey guys,

    I'm going to buy a new car, I currently have a TL-01 running in mod. too many hopups to mention. But i want to go faster and i realised that by the time i buy oil filled shocks and ball diffs i've neally baught a new car.. I'm Currently looking at a TB-02. basicly because it's a specifically designed race pack. Ball diffs adjusable everything, and very close to the evo 3..

    Is any one out there running 1?? what are they like??

    Second question is anyone using a Futaba mc800c speedy?? I'm looking at getting one but i havn't been able to talk to anyone who uses 1...

    Thanks for your help

    Billus McFlunday

    Drift is a contact Sport....

  16. I'm with Fatboyslim... What the badword are you doing?? I race 2 tl-01 1 in stock with 16 other cars who's drivers are new to the sport (this class is also know as the Carnage Cup) massive full speed head on smashes are a very regular occurance as we race on polished floors and if someone loses it and jumps the track edge Bang... also in Drift/Mod. Never any chassis damage... What i would be suggesting is get some better bumperbars and learn to drive your car closer to the edge with more presion.. eg try circulating at 2/3 throttle and don't worry bout keeping up just circulate with clean laps and try to get a full race without crashing. only then do you wind up the speed so that you devolop your skills at a slower speed then go fast when you can control the car.. thus reducing your risk of crashing and braking your car....

    Billus McFlunday

  17. Ah Ha!!! Finally some one who agrees that it is possible!! I sugguested this theroy a little while ago as a mate was having this prob in a tt01 but he was also using incorrect pitched gears at the same time... incredible noise. I also was trying to create a viscus lsd in the rear of my car, by packing it fairly full of grease but what i found that when i eased on the power out of a corner it was great, If i punched it the rear end would step out... We beleive that by having that volume of grease when the diff spun up quickly it was throwing it the back and the weight shift combined with the diff being fully locked at this point was causing me to spin out. What do you guys think?? Am i crazy or is this a possible cause??

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