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So I finally took some photos of some my collection. Here they are. Vintage frog in used condition...I havent touched it since I bought it off CL.

Hello, I'm looking for a pair of steering uprights for the tamiya frog or brat. Not sure if any other models use these but if so then those models too!=) I'm trying to make a frog out of leftover blackfoot parts.. Does anyone have some they'd be willing to give up? Thanks, John

Has anyone had any success casting usable chassis parts in plastic? I'm wondering if the basic resin casting kits would be strong enough to take abuse as chassis parts.

Looking to clear some space at home. All kits are new in the box. Shipping extra. PM me if interested. 58450 TT01R Type E (bearings, oil dampers, turnbuckles, metal drivetrain) - $12558399 DF02 Plasma Edge + aluminum prop shaft, turnbuckles, steering rack - $125

Hello again, Couldn't think of a better topic name, so I just named it after the model - Subaru Brat. Got it recently for 10 euros and didn't see much imperfections, except the lack of body, until I started reassembling it - the front suspension was made completely wrong and the screws were so hard and uncomfortable to reach and unscrew. But with some help from my father, the screws were off and I cleaned and reassembled the front. Altough, one porblem is still here and I don't know what to do. A nut, which is holding the front wheel is 'stuck' (don't know if it's the right word to use in such situation). When I try to screw or unscrew it, it just keeps spinning/moving in its place. Here are some pictures, so it would be easier for you to understand: Maybe someone of you have had similair problems? What hould I do? Also, I would be interested in a Subaru Brat body.

Hi All, I've just bought myself a re-re Brat kit (supplied without ESC) and am in the process of building it up and wanted to know what options I have for locking the diff and possibly strengthening the transmission. I've done some research and seen various methods, so far the faviourite one being to drill and tap the diff output cups and thread lock an M3 bolt down the centre to hold the cups together, as you'd find in a ball diff on any other car, this would have an added benefit of helping prevent the casings spreading under power. The intermediate gear in the transmission is very narrow, how do these hold up? I had intended to run a mild brushless setup, more for better run times than outright power so bought a Turnigy 3000kv motor/esc/card combo from HK, but having seen the weak looking intermediate gear I'm now having my doubts. I've got the option of running the stock silver can motor and a Tamiya 101 ESC (Already had it, hence buying the kit without an ESC) along with a low voltage alarm/5000mah Lipo. Any advice welcome

This Christmas I was fortunate enough to receive a fairly large sum of cash (as far as a 16 year old's pocket money goes; we're not exactly talking thousands here) from my loving parents. Having instantly deciding to put the towards RC stuff, I thought to myself 'I now have extra funds, what car have I always wanted, but never found the cash to buy at the right time?' 'Of course' I exclaimed to my cat 'A Subaru Brat! I've always wanted one of those since I saw one on the shelf at my LHS. Let's go look on eBay'. My cat sat there looking blankly at me, obviously unwilling to help me search for a Brat. 'Well, screw you then.' I said, and began typing the eBay URL into my web browser. My cat walked quietly out of the room to do whatever cats do. Stuff her face in her litter tray or something, I don't know. About 30 minutes of searching through various Brats that were available at the time, I found one at the reasonable price of £95. Two bodies, both only slightly damaged and the car was 95% complete. I thought 'This has got to be the one'. Looks in good condition, should be an easy job to restore it. But then I noticed the same seller had a Frog and a Thunder Dragon for the same price, in the similar condition. After about 20 minutes of careful consideration, I decided that I wanted a Brat more than a Frog, and that a Thunder Dragon was too light on the peripherals front for the price, so I went for the Brat. The Frog sold soon after. So I put in an offer, and that offer was accepted, lucky for me. a few days later, Mr Postman thrust a large brown box upon me when I open my front door. Oh the Joy as I slashed at the brown parcel tape with my trusty steel Stanley knife, eager to crack open the box and get a whiff of that musky pong of vintage Tamiya plastic. And so, here we are. (Pics from eBay page, courtesy of eBay seller 'sexyevoboy', who has great service by the way) From what I can tell, since it has no skid plate mounts and deep dish font wheels, it's an early model. Whoopee for me, the older the better. Althought it has the front bumper mount with the frog post, maybe that got broken then replaced with a newer one though? Once I got it out of it's box, I instantly started tearing it down and giving it a proper once-over. Parts were scrubbed, de-greased and re-greased, gearbox relieved of old, congealed grease and reassembled, those silly hex drive half shafts received fresh grease. Out went the old electronics for the time being and in went some newer, functioning ones so I could test the mechanicals. I also lobbed on some Re-Re Brat wheels I had on my Ranger to make it the same width at the front that was at the back, since it looked rather silly with the wider fronts. And after all that, this is how she looks at the moment. I peeled the old flaky stickers off, that rather surprisingly took quite a lot of paint with them. I also sanded the edges of the paint to stop it flaking all over my carpet. As you can see, the tailgate bracket has come a cropper of some rear collsions during it's lifetime, hence the wonky tailgate. I'm a big fan of the suspension on the Brat, it certainly does it's job well. Just look at that flex! From what's essentially a buggy! The (nice and clean) chassis. Need to tidy up th wiring if these electronics are stayin in for any great length of time, and find a new left battery retainer so I don't have to use the batteries own cable to stop it from falling out. Not sure what happened here, appears to be black paint on the front of the car. On the hub carrier and the front of the chassis. Also noticed white paint on some of the bumper screws. This is the damage to the red body. It's quite bad, but probably fixable with a little styrene and polycement. The spare body and original electronics. Interesting paint job there, sparkling paint is a nice touch. The main damage to the spare body. The roof rails were damaged, but easily repaired with polycement.Those polkadots must have taken some time to do. The origination owner appears to have installed a different plug, never seen one of those on an RC before. The ceramic resistors are also added. Theres also two of them, they both have 'UTM 308-3 R47 10%m' written on them in red. The receiver also has what appears to be 20 year old plasti-dip coating. Yuck, that stuff goes incredibly sticky after that amount of time. It even stained the plastic of the chassis. Stinks too. Eww. And now it's on to everyones favorite part of thread; Question Time! 1.Which body would it be easiest to repair? They're both damaged so they won't mount properly, and both need fixing. I just need to know which would be easier, fixing a front or rear mounting hole. 2.Did the Brat come with clear or tinted window glass? I have both. Is it the same deal as the Blackfoot? Brat had clear and the Mud Blaster had tinted? 3.Will Re-Re Brat driveshafts fit right in? I may need to replace them, because I don't see those hex jobbies lasting long. 4.Is that copper rod part of the kit, or did the previous owner add that? That's all for now, will update when progress is made. Won't be doing any painting for a while because of the weather, unless I can clear up the shed and make a painting booth.

Hi all, I currently have a Re-re Brat and need some advice regrading bodies. Is there any way of mounting a different body on to the chassis? The problem is to do with the fact that the body mounts are not really adjustable, thus limiting the type of body I can put on. However, has anyone had any luck in putting a different body, other than a stock Brat lexan shell, on to theirs? If you can suggest a body that would fit on the Brat/Frog chassis without too much difficulty, then please suggest it. Cheers, Mack.

Hi I recently have been fixing up my Brat, which was in a bit of a state. Yesterday, I got the electrics up and runing, and took it out for a run. All seems to be fine. The only problem is the rear axle. On the left hand side, it keeps poping out. I have tried gaffer-taping the joint boot to give it a bit more strength with the axle bone, but still no use. I also tried some cable ties around the joint boot, but it keeps happening. It usually runs fine on tarmac, but the moment it has any bump, it disconects from the rear suspension piece (far left side) and pops out. So, has anyone else has a similar problem and manage to fix it? While this may seem a bit stupid, the Joint Boot on the left side is torn in one place, and the end next to the gear box has been frayed/torn up slightly. Is it worth replacing it? Thanks in advanced