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Found 55 results

  1. Very new to RC and have just almost completed my first build of a Black Dark Impact DF-03. I was very lucky and got to visit Tokyo and specifically a fantastic store called RC Champ/RC Adviser and pick up a complete RC setup. I have some questions about installing a Brushless Motor to replace the 540 stock motor. My problem is that I am trying to install a Yokomo BL-SP4 Brushless Motor but it is not the same length as the stock 540. By disassembling the rear of the chassis I was able to get the Yokomo fitted but the solder mount for the three wires is an extremely tight fit and I had to bend the wires back to get them leading the correct direction and out of the motor mount to reach my ESC. Secondly, I just am too stupid to understand how to Setup the ESC correctly. I hold down the SET button but don't understand how long I am supposed to wait for the LED Lights to change when setting Neutral, Forward, and Brake. The Yokomo manual is very poorly written. Reading the setup part of the BL-SP4 manual can anyone help me out? Setting up an ESC should be very simple but not for a beginner with no experience, BL-SP4 manual
  2. Just getting back into the scene after years away. In the past I ran nitro, now I'm going electric. Finally figuring out this lipo and brushless stuff, but I'm at decision point. Awaiting my new TT02 White edition kit in the mail, and I need to order a motor/esc combo but I have no idea where to even begin with regards to what I need. Here's what I know: 1) It has to be compatible with the 2s lipos I already have. (One 4000mah and one 6500mah) 2)I need both motor and esc so a combo makes sense. 3) Want to keep price around $100 or less. This article has a ton of options but I don't know what the differences are. https://www.onkidstoys.com/top-21-best-esc-motor-combos/ I'm going to be racing at a local track doing rally. The guys who go there suggested this combo: https://www.hobbytown.com/xerun-justock-zero-spec-sensored-brushless-esc-motor-combo-13.5t-by-hobbywing-hwa38020401/p453305 This is one I keep seeing advertised: Http://www.horizonhobby.com/KXSS0500?utm_medium=display&utm_source=criteo&utm_campaign=productremarketing&utm_content=KXSS0500&CA_6C15C=320011980000459400 Happy to take suggestions. Don't need the world's fastest motor but I'd like to be competitive. Thanks!
  3. We've been doing a lot of on road parking lot racing this past summer. A bit of a change from our normal trail runs and bash sessions. Forgot how much fun it was to go fast! Always wanted to do an on-road buggy - wider stance, bigger tires, they can handle a lot more power than a touring car in my humble opinion. I've got a 5700kv setup here that I tried to run in my XV01 and it was just too much for me. So I started looking for a cheapish buggy to do a conversion just so I could put this motor in it. After doing some digging, I picked up a TT02B MS. I know there are better buggies out there, but I have a TT02 touring car and it's nice being able to mix and match hop-ups between the two. The MS is well equipped right out of the box and frankly, I just like the TT chassis! It's set up with a 15t brushed for now just to sort out the suspension and trims. No hop ups installed yet, the MS is for sure the way to go as it comes pretty loaded right out of the box. Tires are from an older TL01B kit that I clipped off the spikes and sanded down into slicks. The rear has a custom shock tower that lowers the wing an inch and allows me to run Tamiya'a mini CVA's at 55mm all around. Front is lowered with the same 55mm shocks and threw some universals in there as well. (Ok, I guess I did add 1 hopup!) Ovrerall stance is about the same ride height as a touring car. With the wing lowered, it's pretty sleek looking. I didn't care for the body to be honest and was looking for another but once I got it all painted and set on the chassis, it grew on me. Defintely looks the part for a speed machine Fun little build, can't wait to get it and and stretch its legs...Since it is almost winter here, updates will be forthcoming as soon as the weather cooperates.
  4. This didn't really warrant putting in the build thread as it's too small a mod, but I thought I would share it Made this: To fit in my thundershot to mount the ESC on for a brushless system. I already had a small piece of carbon fibre mounted in it to act as a mount plate where the MSC used to be, but the speedo was too tall to fit on there, and the 2.4GHz Rx aerial was too short to reach the aerial tube. So I fitted the aluminium plate in, I used a thick plate so I could recess the screws used to attach the support pillars, and drilled 2 holes in the bottom of the chassis (In the recessed portions to protect the screws) and was then able to fit the ESC neatly onto the plate I'd made, the ESC is lower than on the carbon plate, and leaves plenty of clearance between the bodyshell and the ESC fan for airflow. The ESC is an HobbyWing EzRun 80 amp unit, and the motor is an EzRun 2 pole 4000Kv motor.
  5. Here we go again, Some of you may remember my brushless qd Monster beetle?, there is a thread somewhere,... I missed that little car, but they are getting expensive now. I won a qd thunder dragon by accident and the project has started. Done bearings in the 2speed gearbox, ordered more bearings for the front wheels. Got a steering servo squeezed in there, ordered brushless motor. Need some help with tyres,.. need something with roughly 63mm outer diameter, I am able to use 12mm hex wheels if needed, (the mad bull hex fits the splines on the qd) so just looking for ideas.
  6. Hi everyone! I built my Neo Scorcher and have been loving it! I've done a few upgrades so far: Bearings Alloy steering Full turnbuckles Steel gearbox joints and steel universal shafts Alloy center shaft and steel joints Sport Tuned Motor Alloy motor mount (not installed yet) Tamiya large dish wheels (2 sets) 1 with Pro line Dirt Hawgs, 1 with Tamiya Dual Block I may also upgrade shocks soon. My question is... I'd like to go brushless or at least try it out. I'm returning to the hobby after many years so I'm new to brushless motors. I'd like something that can run well with the TBLE-02s speed control included in the kit. I'm running nimh packs. 2000 mah and 3000 mah. Do I need a sensored motor or can I use either sensored or sensorless? I'd like a jump in speed but I don't want to loose too much torque. I mostly just bash but occasionally run on an old dirt track. Oh and I'd also like something moderately priced. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and suggestions! Thanks!
  7. Selling up my collection over the next few months,please do keep an eye open for some very rare and sought after Tamiya items. Feel free to PM me any questions. Thanks for looking. Very best of luck. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/anchordriver/m.html?item=182155358527&hash=item2a694e313f%3Ag%3AauQAAOSw3R1XTta5&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
  8. Hloo! This post contains my experience/thoughts on: *Brushless 10.5 motor in a CC-01 ...hehehe *Soft spots on the CC-01... what have broken during my bashing... oops *Mud, puddles, grass and Mud flaps (home made) - what difference does it make? ------------- So, I've been using my CC-01 Pajero Rally Sport to play garden rally. A rally car isn't a crawler, so when my hobby store had a sale i naturally purchased a 10.5T brushless(the limit of the TBLE-02s i think) for laughs. And boy, did and do i laugh! Hehe, i can rarely push the pedal to teh metal so to speak, but it actually gives me more satisfaction to hold back a little and push the limits in every corner than just apply full throttle all the time. It takes some skill to maneuver an overpowered beast And of course it sometimes results in death defying spins, rolls, flips and crashes... but my inner kid likes that now and then. This sturdy little thing can take it... most of the time... Since i started my rally career i have broken some parts... but very few.... and this was actually before the 10.5, it was with the stock motor.The first thing to go was the ... uhm.. Skid-plate? i ran full speed into a concrete stone. After two CA-gluing sessions without success, i managed to repair with cable ties so i could play while i waited for the aluminum spare. I also broke the "knuckle arms" (?) where i had to drill new holes for the steering linkage, easy fix. For the long run i got some aluminum spares. I mean, who doesn't like to buy and upgrade stuff? I waterprotected my esc with liquid tape (golly, that was some sticky messy mess, and not really easy to do if you ask me) and got me a water-protected servo and protected my receiver in a removable two-barrier-box super invention. Mud and puddles here i come! Fun fun fun! But i was a bit disappointed by all the muck I had to clean inside afterwards, ....so I made some mud flaps from an inside rubber tube from a car tire (?). The mess was significantly less, but still required some cleaning . Might have to refine... Although most people seem to be using their cc-01 as crawlers or alike... i wholeheartedly recommend it as a full speed insanity rally machine... All in all, the CC-01 is a lovely car to drive like a maniac. And last.. I am not sure it comes through in the text above, but i really really really like the CC-01. It gives great pleasure to build, tinker with and customize - "how can i improve this?". And i just had to get another one, a FJ Cruiser in which i installed lights and stock motor, my kids love to drive it. Who knows, i might even get a third to crawl with UPDATE! So, the driveshaft could not handle the 10,5t... It went to pieces in the obvious places. But the rest is still going strong hehe...
  9. So, the 6s compatible Castle Creations Mamba Monster ESC in my newly-acquired, used E-maxx Brushless fried itself on its first outing. I'm thinking possibly a ripple current caused by using a pair of 2s 4200mAh LiPos that couldn't handle the current draw has caused the capacitors to fail. I must admit I didn't realise this was a possibility until after I'd blown the speedo and searched online for a possible cause. So, I now need to replace the speedo and get hold of some better batteries before I end up with yet another useless RC truck I've found a used example of the same speedo for £90. I was quite happy with the performance of the Mamba Monster on 4s but that seems like a lot of wedge for a used speedo, especially as it'll have no warranty if I fry it again. (It looks like some Mamba Monster speedos had a habit of frying themselves and were replaced under warranty). The current model (Mamba Monster Max) retails for £175. That's a lot of cash for someone who isn't supposed to be spending money on toys. I've got a baby due in just over a month! It's especially a lot of cash if I also need to fund two new 2s packs. HobbyKing list a Turnigy 1:8 ESC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-160a-1-8th-scale-sensorless-esc-w-fan.html It'll only go to 4s, but then I was unlikely to run the Maxx on 6s anyway as I don't have any 3s packs. I already have a Turnigy programming box for my 1:10 TrackStar Turbo ESCs but I don't know if it will work on the 1:8 ESC. At less than £50, it seems like a bargain. I love the TrackStar series and use them in my HotShot and my CS drift car. HobbyKing also list their own 1:8 ESC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-beast-series-esc-1-8-scale-150a.html £60 and it'll run up to 6s. I'm not sure if either of these will give the same performance as the Mamba Monster; part of me is reluctant to spend any money if I'm going to end up with a less good truck. And so onto batteries - I'll want hardcase LiPos of at least 5000mAh with at least 30C rating. I've used Turnigy NanoTech batteries for a while without any issues but it was a pair of 4200mAh NanoTech stick packs that were in the truck when the speedo smoked itself. I guess it's worth spending on good quality packs if it'll protect my investment in a good quality speedo. Any advice gratefully received
  10. Having a wee clearout of some items I no longer use. Prices are set with UK postage included, worldwide postage at extra cost. First up is my Speed Passion Reventon R 5.5R Brushless system. I used this in my DB01R for racing (albeit without the motor) and it never once put a foot wrong. Comes with what you see plus the program box (not in the picture) which can adjust all kinds of different, punch, brake, lipo cutoff settings etc. Includes box and all manuals and setting sheet. Motor wires are unsoldered but can be soldered if needed. The motor outer case has 2 marks (see pics) from when it was lightly used in an open bottomed chassis, but these do not affect the performance at all. Overall its a great brushless system and very powerful with the motor rated at 7000KV. Bargain at £44 posted !!! ---------------------- Next up we have my race motor I used in my DB01R along with the Reventon R ESC. Its a Vampire Racing AB+ Motor 5.5T. Again a fantastic motor and very powerful with adjustable endbell timing. Motor is in great condition with only a few small marks on it from the usual use. Solder tabs are in perfect condition and ready to solder to your ESC. Another Bargain at £22 !!! -------------------- And lastly we have a Tamiya 1/10 Loctite Zexel GT-R R34 Bodyset. Its brand new painted (not by myself) and never ran. Decals are a decent quality but are showing the usual signs of lifting here and there. No splits, cracks or any exterior marks at all apart from the aged decals around the front half of the body. These are really hard to come by now. £23 posted !!!! Any questions feel free to ask. Thanks James
  11. I though i'd share with you my printed wheel arches curently on Shapeways. I've sold a few sets now, and people are really happy with them. There is also my brushless fitting kit, of which i have sold a lot now. If you look under my 'creations' tab, you will also see my dashboard project that is near completion. I have two versions, one with metal detailing around the dials, one with plastic. The metal is more expensive, and a bit chunkier. The shapeways 'stainless steel' metal colour is not as chrome like as i'd hoped. I'm starting to think the plastic parts painted silver will be better - what do you think? https://www.shapeways.com/designer/scorched_parts/creations
  12. Hi there Firstly apologies for asking a question which has probably been asked loads of times but after having read posts, reviews and watched stuff on eBay I am still at a bit of a loss. I have a 25+ year old monster beetle and lunchbox which I have got back in running order for my son with the addition of a couple of new ESCs tble02s's to replace the old mechanical ones and a couple of new batteries (3300 nimh) He has got good use of the cars over the last year but the motors which are also 25+ years old (an old stock silver can and a sport tuned) are running a bit hot now and are a bit temperamental. To make things a bit safer for him to use them on his own and prolong the battery life/ run time a bit I was looking to go brushless on the cars but I don't want anything too insane as I will only spend more time fixing them than he does running them, although to be fair I do enjoy tinkering with them. My question therefore is what do you recommend, I would like something as fast as a sport tuned or a little faster but don't know whether I am better going for one of the tamiya motors since I already have the ESCs or go with one of the cheaper motor ESC combos such as the leopard 3930kv or similar. With the non tamiya motors is there anything you need to look out for, do they fit the same to the motor mounts on the cars or do you need adapters etc? Do the pin ions fit? Lastly is there a way of taming the motors down a bit so that initially they are a bit slower for my son but as he progresses I can dial the up a bit. Is this possible via the programming card? Is this what the motor timing option is on the set up? Thanks for your patience Mark
  13. Hello I am selling the power combo that came with a used RC I recently bought. Price is 25€ for each or 45€ for both. Shipping in Europe is included in the process. I am also open to offers. If you have any questions, just let me know. The ESC is a Yuki model Samurai SL 45A. The esc is sensorless and it is also marketed as waterproof, even though I don't think it really is. Definetely looks water resistant. This was installed in a Tamiya XV-01, that is why the wires are extended. Unfortunately the previous owner used extensions with wider terminals than what the motor has so those would have to be removed. I would actually suggest to remove the extensions altogether since the connection was not the best. That said, there is sufficient length of wire for a lot of applications. The ESC is programmable via card, but I do not have it. Even though the ESC looks like a hobbywing rebrand it people in rc forums say that it is not compatible with the hobbywing program card. Even though I do have one, I am not willing to risk damaging it by trying it. The ESC is outfitted with a deans plug and also has a fan integrated. The motor is CS rookie rocket 3100kv, sensorless, 2 pole brushless motor. It is a rather mild motor and good replacement if you want to have a mild brushless setup for a 1:10 touring or rally car. The motor has a few dings but works fine. As you can see it really looks like some hobby-wing rebrand and I am pretty sure it is.
  14. I have started experiencing overheating issues with my blitzer beetle and was wondering if any of you guys can point me in the direction of a fix... Spec: EZRun 35a ESC 9T Motor 13T Steel Pinion. 2S LiPO 30C Extension leads connecting ESC to Motor System is about a month old and has probably had about 12 packs run through it, used to barely break a sweat but about a week ago I hit the beach, didn't relalise how open the motor really is and it got filled with sand, I stripped it and cleaned it up and it seemed ok but it seemed to be getting hotter than usual but ran fine. This weekend just gone I was using it, worked fine but again motor was getting very very hot, I picked the car up by the rear end and dropped it as I scolded my finger on the motor so obviously not right. Gearbox and all running gear is fine and not binding as I stripped it all down last week so it is nice and smooth. Now after about 10 minutes of running it starts cogging and I have to turn it off to cool down, the ESC isn't hot though so is the thermal shut off relevant to the ESC or the motor? I have purchased some wire so I can remove the extension cables but have I killed the motor when I got it full of sand? I spins freely and doesn't appear to have any binding but I can't inspect the state of the coil inside. I have actually purchased a new motor as I stumbled across a replacement for £10 so seemed a worthwhile investment but I have a desire to know what went / is going wrong. Thanks.
  15. Hello wonderful people, I have been lurking and reading/learning/envying a while but now I need help lol The Mrs and I got each other blitzer beetles for xmas (woop) and I was intending on putting a brushless set up in mine. I went for one of these, as it was in my toolbox for some reason http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html Got it set up and with a two cell lipo, however I'm getting serious cogging and the power seems somewhat delayed. Its set up with a 13t steel pinion (recommended lots on here thank you) Any suggestions on getting the cogging sorted? Might be worth noting that if i hold the car off ground it doesn't cog but the power delivery still seems off somehow. Thanks!
  16. I just want to check this before I set it on mine as I am weary of ruining any of my batteries... Should the cut off voltage on my EZrun be set at 3.2v for 2S batteries? I had it set to 3.4v but the voltage cut off was kicking in as soon as I gave it a burst of acceleration. I have been using it with no lipo cut off recently but just using a 3rd party alarm to alert me but I would rather use the built in function if possible. Thanks
  17. Brushless Tamiya TT-Gear Hotshot GB-03 Alloy Upgrades RTR w/ Bonus Chassis 56711 Extremely Rare / Hard to Find 4WD TT-Gear 1:16 Hotshot Loaded with upgrades and hop-ups - too many to list (see pics)! Comes with extremely rare NIP GB-03 Chassis parts + other NIP parts (see pics)! Powered by a Castle Creations Mamba Brushless System (ESC + motor) Comes RTR with Tamiya Expec Transmitter/Receiver Set, Mamba BL ESC/motor, new NiMH battery (w/ adapter) Comes with 3 Full Sets of Wheels+Tires:1) Gold Hotshot/Fox-style (installed); 2) White Hotshot/Fox-style (original); 3) Silver Buggy Champ (GB-02) Onroad Wheels+Tires w/ Foam Inserts Includes Everything Pictured + More Extra Bonus Parts Essentially, this is a Brushless TT-Gear Supershot w/ the Full HP Suspension Upgrade, etc Free U.S. Shipping At-Cost International Shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/331718087702
  18. ok, so some of you have seen by build up thread on here of the DB02 Racer magazine review car I bought off ebay. Hopped it to the max and went Racing..................Pictures taken by Lionel Croucher.
  19. This started life as a DT03 Neo Fighter, built for racing and most of you will have seen my review of the car on the RC Racer web site. When the DT03T Aqroshot came out I had to have one as like many others have been waiting for a proper Tamiya racing truck. It got tested at the years DT02 challenge .............. it has all the hop ups available and runs a 10.5 brushless with a Hobbyking 120amp X-car esc ​ ​ ​ ​
  20. Anyone else looked at the similarity in shape of the DT-01 chassis to the DT-03, wondered why they never released a narrower body on the DT-01 and then looked at a spare DT-03 body and went "hmmm..."? If not, here's an idea for the DT-01 lovers on TC. The car belongs to my friend and its original body keeps breaking around the thin rear frame so I had a go at modifying the newly spare DT-03 body I had. It's a perfect fit (like a glove) right up to the rear shock towers where it needs to be cut away to accomodate them. I also removed the overhang at the back as it fouled on the axles as the suspension compressed. I'm highly tempted to try this again should my madbull (GH2) body get too trashed.
  21. I recently picked up a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor. I want to try putting it in my Buggy Champ but the instructions suggest a gear ratio of 9:1. Are there gears out there that give me this ratio and fit under the gear cover? If so, what's a good place to buy these type of gears? -- Jeff
  22. Hi folks, I'm looking at installing some kind of dual brushless setup in my TXT-2 since now it has TXT-1 wheels and tyres it's not quite as nippy as it was with 2xsport tuned motors and the Tamiya dual motor ESC. This is partly inspired by Matteo Meier's TXT-2 mods here: He used two 45048 TBLE-01S controllers and two 54272 12T TBLM-01S motors. I have a suitable radio with mixing so I can duplicate the setup. I'm not wedded to using Tamiya stuff (although it's always confidence inspiring!) but I was looking on Banzai and the ESC/motor sets seem pretty reasonably priced. The only thing is that the 12T set is out of stock (and I think not coming back). They do have the 16T set - is this going to do the job? Is it like brushed where more turns means more torque/lower RPM? Will the extra torque hurt the stock+ drive train (I replaced the prop shafts and added steel pinions, but the gearbox and axles are stock). I could also get the bits separately for somewhat more money, or go with a different brand. Suggestions are very welcome since I haven't done brushless before and I'm pretty clueless. Thanks, Will
  23. After having a reasonable success with fitting the 4274 Ezrun motor in my TXT-1, I've decided to try and improve the fitment by designing and building my own gearbox for it, designed around the 4274 sized motor. I set myself the following design goals: 1. Centre the motor above the drive shaft. 2. Lower the motor to improve the centre of gravity. 3. Allow the fitment of Traxxas Revo UJs with threaded securing pins, as well as standard Tamiya drive shafts. 4. Re-use the existing Tamiya TXT-1 gears 5. get rid of the need to use 1160 sized bearings on the main transmission shaft. 6. Allow the use of a 12tooth to 20tooth pinion. 7. Lower the output shaft to help straighten the UJs This is what I've got so far: This is the main rear plate of the gearbox. It holds 2 idler shafts, and the main transmission shaft. The bearing housing for the main shaft holds 2 1260 bearings. Rear bolts are recessed into the body. Idler shafts are press fit so do not drop out or rotate. Comparison of size with a normal transmission case. Supporting rods for the other main plate are 5mm steel Home made steel components. The hex drive started life as round bar. It will be loctited onto the main shaft with gear locker eventually. Assembly so far. It is interesting to note that the TXT-1 gears have a perfect tooth count for 2 of the idler gears to run on one shaft. Perhaps it was originally the intention for the gears to be fitted in this manner, but some other design requirement resulted in the actual TXT-1 layout that uses 3 idler shafts instead of 2. The next plate will have the motor mount incorporated into it, so that will show the design off better. The motor sticks out in front of the transmission as it does in the king hauler gearbox. The 4274 will hopefully slot between the top links of the suspension. With the idea that I currently have for the motor mount plate and the method for attaching the transmission to the chassis, the motor will sit 20mm lower in the chassis. I have also decided with this project, to build 2 gearboxes, one for myself, and one to sell on.
  24. Hi All, I've just bought myself a re-re Brat kit (supplied without ESC) and am in the process of building it up and wanted to know what options I have for locking the diff and possibly strengthening the transmission. I've done some research and seen various methods, so far the faviourite one being to drill and tap the diff output cups and thread lock an M3 bolt down the centre to hold the cups together, as you'd find in a ball diff on any other car, this would have an added benefit of helping prevent the casings spreading under power. The intermediate gear in the transmission is very narrow, how do these hold up? I had intended to run a mild brushless setup, more for better run times than outright power so bought a Turnigy 3000kv motor/esc/card combo from HK, but having seen the weak looking intermediate gear I'm now having my doubts. I've got the option of running the stock silver can motor and a Tamiya 101 ESC (Already had it, hence buying the kit without an ESC) along with a low voltage alarm/5000mah Lipo. Any advice welcome
  25. Hello Hello Hello, Hi, Ok I have just decided to build a second Tamiya model car and following on from my Lunch box (which has had a lot of mods), I have decided that I want SPEED... Krazy speed... So the plan is go nuts! I reckon up the voltage, start with a camel hump NIMH (yeah 11.1v LIPO would be sweet but expensive) probberly 8.4v or 9.6v mixed with a quicker brushed motor 14t Losi motor if it can handle the volts. An Etronix probe ESC could handle 8.4v and shouldn't mind a Losi motor. Another plus is both are cheaper then standard Tamiya 27t stuff. Well maybe not. Shocks, I may just see what I can get out of the Tamiya CVA's but will have to be firmer for roads, also I have some lunch box springs going spare. great if you want very hard suspension on CVA's. Obviously need a 2.4 Ghz radio but that's a must on any car in my opinion and a Mr T driver. Tyres.... Ok I'll get back to you on tyres. This could take awhile as I do have a real car to keep on the road and a GF to keep happy, shall be an on going thread, if any one has any ideas, advice or just wants to see how things are going please post away. Ando
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