Search the Community

I have started experiencing overheating issues with my blitzer beetle and was wondering if any of you guys can point me in the direction of a fix... Spec: EZRun 35a ESC 9T Motor 13T Steel Pinion. 2S LiPO 30C Extension leads connecting ESC to Motor System is about a month old and has probably had about 12 packs run through it, used to barely break a sweat but about a week ago I hit the beach, didn't relalise how open the motor really is and it got filled with sand, I stripped it and cleaned it up and it seemed ok but it seemed to be getting hotter than usual but ran fine. This weekend just gone I was using it, worked fine but again motor was getting very very hot, I picked the car up by the rear end and dropped it as I scolded my finger on the motor so obviously not right. Gearbox and all running gear is fine and not binding as I stripped it all down last week so it is nice and smooth. Now after about 10 minutes of running it starts cogging and I have to turn it off to cool down, the ESC isn't hot though so is the thermal shut off relevant to the ESC or the motor? I have purchased some wire so I can remove the extension cables but have I killed the motor when I got it full of sand? I spins freely and doesn't appear to have any binding but I can't inspect the state of the coil inside. I have actually purchased a new motor as I stumbled across a replacement for £10 so seemed a worthwhile investment but I have a desire to know what went / is going wrong. Thanks.

Hello wonderful people, I have been lurking and reading/learning/envying a while but now I need help lol The Mrs and I got each other blitzer beetles for xmas (woop) and I was intending on putting a brushless set up in mine. I went for one of these, as it was in my toolbox for some reason http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html Got it set up and with a two cell lipo, however I'm getting serious cogging and the power seems somewhat delayed. Its set up with a 13t steel pinion (recommended lots on here thank you) Any suggestions on getting the cogging sorted? Might be worth noting that if i hold the car off ground it doesn't cog but the power delivery still seems off somehow. Thanks!

I just want to check this before I set it on mine as I am weary of ruining any of my batteries... Should the cut off voltage on my EZrun be set at 3.2v for 2S batteries? I had it set to 3.4v but the voltage cut off was kicking in as soon as I gave it a burst of acceleration. I have been using it with no lipo cut off recently but just using a 3rd party alarm to alert me but I would rather use the built in function if possible. Thanks

Brushless Tamiya TT-Gear Hotshot GB-03 Alloy Upgrades RTR w/ Bonus Chassis 56711 Extremely Rare / Hard to Find 4WD TT-Gear 1:16 Hotshot Loaded with upgrades and hop-ups - too many to list (see pics)! Comes with extremely rare NIP GB-03 Chassis parts + other NIP parts (see pics)! Powered by a Castle Creations Mamba Brushless System (ESC + motor) Comes RTR with Tamiya Expec Transmitter/Receiver Set, Mamba BL ESC/motor, new NiMH battery (w/ adapter) Comes with 3 Full Sets of Wheels+Tires:1) Gold Hotshot/Fox-style (installed); 2) White Hotshot/Fox-style (original); 3) Silver Buggy Champ (GB-02) Onroad Wheels+Tires w/ Foam Inserts Includes Everything Pictured + More Extra Bonus Parts Essentially, this is a Brushless TT-Gear Supershot w/ the Full HP Suspension Upgrade, etc Free U.S. Shipping At-Cost International Shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/331718087702

ok, so some of you have seen by build up thread on here of the DB02 Racer magazine review car I bought off ebay. Hopped it to the max and went Racing..................Pictures taken by Lionel Croucher.

This started life as a DT03 Neo Fighter, built for racing and most of you will have seen my review of the car on the RC Racer web site. When the DT03T Aqroshot came out I had to have one as like many others have been waiting for a proper Tamiya racing truck. It got tested at the years DT02 challenge .............. it has all the hop ups available and runs a 10.5 brushless with a Hobbyking 120amp X-car esc ​ ​ ​ ​

Anyone else looked at the similarity in shape of the DT-01 chassis to the DT-03, wondered why they never released a narrower body on the DT-01 and then looked at a spare DT-03 body and went "hmmm..."? If not, here's an idea for the DT-01 lovers on TC. The car belongs to my friend and its original body keeps breaking around the thin rear frame so I had a go at modifying the newly spare DT-03 body I had. It's a perfect fit (like a glove) right up to the rear shock towers where it needs to be cut away to accomodate them. I also removed the overhang at the back as it fouled on the axles as the suspension compressed. I'm highly tempted to try this again should my madbull (GH2) body get too trashed.

I recently picked up a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor. I want to try putting it in my Buggy Champ but the instructions suggest a gear ratio of 9:1. Are there gears out there that give me this ratio and fit under the gear cover? If so, what's a good place to buy these type of gears? -- Jeff

Hi folks, I'm looking at installing some kind of dual brushless setup in my TXT-2 since now it has TXT-1 wheels and tyres it's not quite as nippy as it was with 2xsport tuned motors and the Tamiya dual motor ESC. This is partly inspired by Matteo Meier's TXT-2 mods here: He used two 45048 TBLE-01S controllers and two 54272 12T TBLM-01S motors. I have a suitable radio with mixing so I can duplicate the setup. I'm not wedded to using Tamiya stuff (although it's always confidence inspiring!) but I was looking on Banzai and the ESC/motor sets seem pretty reasonably priced. The only thing is that the 12T set is out of stock (and I think not coming back). They do have the 16T set - is this going to do the job? Is it like brushed where more turns means more torque/lower RPM? Will the extra torque hurt the stock+ drive train (I replaced the prop shafts and added steel pinions, but the gearbox and axles are stock). I could also get the bits separately for somewhat more money, or go with a different brand. Suggestions are very welcome since I haven't done brushless before and I'm pretty clueless. Thanks, Will

After having a reasonable success with fitting the 4274 Ezrun motor in my TXT-1, I've decided to try and improve the fitment by designing and building my own gearbox for it, designed around the 4274 sized motor. I set myself the following design goals: 1. Centre the motor above the drive shaft. 2. Lower the motor to improve the centre of gravity. 3. Allow the fitment of Traxxas Revo UJs with threaded securing pins, as well as standard Tamiya drive shafts. 4. Re-use the existing Tamiya TXT-1 gears 5. get rid of the need to use 1160 sized bearings on the main transmission shaft. 6. Allow the use of a 12tooth to 20tooth pinion. 7. Lower the output shaft to help straighten the UJs This is what I've got so far: This is the main rear plate of the gearbox. It holds 2 idler shafts, and the main transmission shaft. The bearing housing for the main shaft holds 2 1260 bearings. Rear bolts are recessed into the body. Idler shafts are press fit so do not drop out or rotate. Comparison of size with a normal transmission case. Supporting rods for the other main plate are 5mm steel Home made steel components. The hex drive started life as round bar. It will be loctited onto the main shaft with gear locker eventually. Assembly so far. It is interesting to note that the TXT-1 gears have a perfect tooth count for 2 of the idler gears to run on one shaft. Perhaps it was originally the intention for the gears to be fitted in this manner, but some other design requirement resulted in the actual TXT-1 layout that uses 3 idler shafts instead of 2. The next plate will have the motor mount incorporated into it, so that will show the design off better. The motor sticks out in front of the transmission as it does in the king hauler gearbox. The 4274 will hopefully slot between the top links of the suspension. With the idea that I currently have for the motor mount plate and the method for attaching the transmission to the chassis, the motor will sit 20mm lower in the chassis. I have also decided with this project, to build 2 gearboxes, one for myself, and one to sell on.

Hi All, I've just bought myself a re-re Brat kit (supplied without ESC) and am in the process of building it up and wanted to know what options I have for locking the diff and possibly strengthening the transmission. I've done some research and seen various methods, so far the faviourite one being to drill and tap the diff output cups and thread lock an M3 bolt down the centre to hold the cups together, as you'd find in a ball diff on any other car, this would have an added benefit of helping prevent the casings spreading under power. The intermediate gear in the transmission is very narrow, how do these hold up? I had intended to run a mild brushless setup, more for better run times than outright power so bought a Turnigy 3000kv motor/esc/card combo from HK, but having seen the weak looking intermediate gear I'm now having my doubts. I've got the option of running the stock silver can motor and a Tamiya 101 ESC (Already had it, hence buying the kit without an ESC) along with a low voltage alarm/5000mah Lipo. Any advice welcome

Hello Hello Hello, Hi, Ok I have just decided to build a second Tamiya model car and following on from my Lunch box (which has had a lot of mods), I have decided that I want SPEED... Krazy speed... So the plan is go nuts! I reckon up the voltage, start with a camel hump NIMH (yeah 11.1v LIPO would be sweet but expensive) probberly 8.4v or 9.6v mixed with a quicker brushed motor 14t Losi motor if it can handle the volts. An Etronix probe ESC could handle 8.4v and shouldn't mind a Losi motor. Another plus is both are cheaper then standard Tamiya 27t stuff. Well maybe not. Shocks, I may just see what I can get out of the Tamiya CVA's but will have to be firmer for roads, also I have some lunch box springs going spare. great if you want very hard suspension on CVA's. Obviously need a 2.4 Ghz radio but that's a must on any car in my opinion and a Mr T driver. Tyres.... Ok I'll get back to you on tyres. This could take awhile as I do have a real car to keep on the road and a GF to keep happy, shall be an on going thread, if any one has any ideas, advice or just wants to see how things are going please post away. Ando

Hey wise ones. I've thus far stubbornly refused, or, just have not had any pressing opportunity to try a brushless ESC/motor setup in any of my cars. I recently picked up one of those new brushed/brushless ESCs that come with the Neo-Frog and was poking around for brushless motors. But before I pull the trigger and have a disappointing experience I thought I'd bounce the question off u guys and see if anyone would recommend a good place to start trying brushless, that won't cost a ton or be cheap but disappointing and discourage me from trying anything else on the brushless menu. I tend to prefer using Tamiya gear when it isn't ridiculously overpriced and under-good. Like the ADSPEC stuff... crazy overpriced! So, should I just try that new ESC and pick up an entry level Tamiya brushless motor? Or should I bypass that, use the ESC brushed for something, and get a Mamba or Castle Creations or something setup? LEARN ME, BOYS! AND GIRLS! MOSTLY BOYS! BOEF

I hope someone can help, I went to my local rc club recently, and they had a micro car race going on. So I thought it was time to unleash the gb01 frog and gb03 hotshot. They've both got aeration dampers and some other trick bits, but they are slow! Now I've gone the brushless lipo route with nearly every other car I have, and I want to try the same with these. I reckon the ezrun 18t or 12t is the set up for me, although the 12t might be too much?!? I'm also struggling finding a lipo to fit the battery bay. Can anyone help? It needs to be 100mm x 32mm x17mm. Many thanks in advance

Hi everyone, So 29 years after my parents purchased a Tamiya Hornet and so very badly wanting a Fox, I finally have one. Its in pretty ordinary shape, could have found a better car I'm sure but it came with the box and most of the original packaging. Now for the rebuild. Its not destined for the shelf, its not going to be rebuilt strictly from original 1985 release parts, probably 58577 bits to be honest. I've purchased a re-re Wild One for my daughter whos shown a love for RC so It will only be a weekend runner. I dont care about breaking stuff, i'l just fix it. So, I've ordered a truck load of new parts, all tree's, parts and screw bag as well as heaps of alloy and upgrade parts such as a Thorpe ball diff. Now for my questions, and bear with me cause its been 30 years since I played with a Tamyia. Lipo, brushless, 2.4ghz radios etc werent around in my time. 1. The upgraded Thorpe diff should handle more power but do I go with a traditional brushed motor or step up to a brushless system? and if so any recommendations on a kv? or If I stick with tradition how may turn motor? What are the better motor esc combos in both options. There's plenty of combos (motor/esc) around the $150 AUD mark but whats worthwhile and what will likely go up in smoke. 2./ A lot of esc's these days are forced cooled, any recommendations of cooling mods given the Fox's closed body design? 3./ To go lipo or not? I guess the power system needs to match the drive system. I'm chasing more torque and power increases and looking for more run-time from whatever system employed. 4./ Is there a decent charger capable of charging multiple battery types? So in closing, I'm looking to build a quick, reliable Fox with decent run-time. Lastly, a quality dependable radio and receiver combo. Thanks in advance guys, I'll post progression photos as parts start to arrive and its rebuilt. Cheer Daniel.

Does anyone out there have any torque figures for brushless motors ? I was thinking about using a 800 size motor in a scratch built model, it produces around 6300g/cm of torque at about 4500 rpm, it's about 3 times the torque of a standard 540 but much less rpm, just wondering how it compares to a low KV brushless motor system ???

I suppose this story started off in about 1990 when I got a Tamiya Bearhawk as a kid and I loved it. I drove it into a lake and abused it like there was no tomorrow! I was in the toy shop a few months later and I seen the Lunchbox and the promotional video playing above it, I wanted one of them!! I never got one until 2009 when I bought one and built it myself, took me a few evenings but I got there, brought it out to the beach the next say....... and boy was I underwhelmed! (Sorry about the quality!) Not as fast as I remember! So I painted it up but never really played around with it for the next 3 years, it kinda just sat there and gathered dust. Until I got bored one weekend and decided enough was enough. First off was an upgraded engine, I settled on the 23t Supersport BZ as I knew nothing about engines, ESC's, batteries etc. Now we're getting somewhere! So now I caught the bug, Over the last few months I went and bought/installed: 2.4ghz W6 Ansmann Racing system 75mm Ansmann Racing Oil filled shocks all round. 75mm Ansmann Racing 5th shock Ball bearings all round. foam Tyre Inserts Glued Tyres to Rims Ansmann Racing Waterproof Steering servo 2 * 4000mAh NiMH Ansmann Racing Batteries So I took it out for a spin and it felt great, so much smoother and handled (almost) like a dream. I eventually got bored of the BZ motor and wanted badly a brushless system. As I knew nothing about these I wanted to go with an EZRun system but my friend recommended a Etronix Photon 2.0 9t system. I went ahead and ordered it and I just installed it. Fingers crossed it goes as well as it looks, I'm waiting for the batteries to charge right about now. I think the other things left to do if the system matches my expectations are: Wheelie Bar Upgrade of some sort Some sort of lipo Battery Strut Braces Alloy body mounts Futaba-FX10 front end conversion Here's some pictures!